Reply With QuoteCan't confirm the torque settings, but yep, that's what I did. Especially the beer.
Oh, and you forgot step 0: sort thru 4,000,000 posts about which is the best oil to be using.
Master
SupporterI know this has been done to death before.
But, is it this easy?
1. Undo top filler nut
2. Undo drain nut
3. Drain oil
4. Tighten drain bolt 30nm
5. Pump in oil via top filler but until oil spills out
6. Close filler nut (torque?)
7. Have beer
2015 Defender 110
Master
SupporterCan't confirm the torque settings, but yep, that's what I did. Especially the beer.
Oh, and you forgot step 0: sort thru 4,000,000 posts about which is the best oil to be using.
Master
Drain and fill plugs = 60Nm
Wizard
SupporterTop marks for having the first step as remove the filler plug. Nothing worse than draining all the oil only to find the filler plug is stuck or you round it off
Shane
2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html
ForumSage
SubscriberI’m now a fan of vacuuming out the oil from our cars, which doesn’t incl a Puma. So much less mucking around, cleaner, no oil spills.
Every car is different but 1st time I used a vacuum pump on the RR tdv8 I also removed the two sump plugs to check how much oil was left after sucking out oil through the dip stick tube, and was barely a dribble of oil came out.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
Master
SupporterJust learnt its good to put a magnet in the drip pan, to collect any particles for inspection.
My marine engineer mate, says use instead a large body pan and inspect any particles.
Good advice I say. I'll post photos shortly
2015 Defender 110
Have you checked the manual for the amount of fresh oil to go in, as some of the dirty old oil won't come out, so you can't use the amount that comes out to gauge how much to put in? Even if it's a case of fill to the top of the filler plug, I still check the amount, just to be sure.
Master
SupporterI completed the diff oil change yesterday, and was happy to see no metal particles in the oil.
Happy days.
The job is easy, the only hard part is cleaning the thread of the fill and drain plugs - which has some sealing compound on it. When I refitted, I used teflon tape.
Today, I replaced both transfer box and gearbox oils. Again, quite an easy job and no jacking up the car is needed. I used an overpriced 1 litre hand pump from supercheap to pump the oils in.
I used Penrite oils for everything.
Diffs - Penrite Gear Oil - 80W-90 - mineral - procedure until oil runs out
Transfer - Penrite Pro Gear Oil - 75W-90 - procedure until oil runs out (the book doesnt say that, but its the same)
Gearbox - Penrite Pro Gear Oil - 75W-85 - procedure 2.2 litres
2015 Defender 110
The transfer case takes 2.3l for a refill. I think that is less than to the fill hole.
Master
SupporterChanged my diff oil on the weekend ??..
I noticed the rear diff oil was golden in colour but a little hazy
the front diff oil was a deep gray to black in colour
both diffs seemed to have the right levels of oil based on what drained out
can anyone suggest why the front diff colour is like this ( water in it ?) and what should I be looking at to remedy that . It has been suggested that I should change the front diff oil again in 5000 k to flush it out and freshen it up ?..but would like to fix any problem that may be leading to contaminated oil
many thanks
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