Thread: Defender Puma 130 Head Gasket, Head & Turbo Failure

Originally Posted by 1nando

I waa under the impression early 2012 models were 2.4 and later 2012 models 2.2.

Ours is a 2011 and a MY12, it’s one of the first of the 2.2’s also hence my interest in this thread.

Originally Posted by alien

Ours is a 2011 and a MY12, it’s one of the first of the 2.2’s also hence my interest in this thread.

Find any useful info in the egt thread?

Originally Posted by 1nando

Find any useful info in the egt thread?

Need time to take it all in but looks interesting after reading the first page and few of the updates. I’m runnning the EGT probe in the bung as I didn’t want it breaking off and going through the turbo when away on a trip, interestingly all our work trucks(Cummins/Cat/Mack) have the probe post turbo too. As I tow also I’m thinking an intercooler upgrade but don’t want to play with fuel settings. Need to work out the best way to get live reading from my Nanocom too and work out the base readings for future diagnostics if required.

Originally Posted by alien

Need time to take it all in but looks interesting after reading the first page and few of the updates. I’m runnning the EGT probe in the bung as I didn’t want it breaking off and going through the turbo when away on a trip, interestingly all our work trucks(Cummins/Cat/Mack) have the probe post turbo too. As I tow also I’m thinking an intercooler upgrade but don’t want to play with fuel settings. Need to work out the best way to get live reading from my Nanocom too and work out the base readings for future diagnostics if required.

The technology used to manufacture probes today is awesome, the chances of it breaking would be close to non existent. Ian from thermoguard industries and his website are excellent resources.

What I found interesting was the coolant temp and how it followed egt. This is vital because coolant temp always lags behind egts, my coolant temp was excellent, some people report higher coolant temps in standard trim and my theory is that running these engines hard in standard trim or tuned is a recipe for potential head issues.
If towing I would 100% recommend a more efficient IC and free up the exhaust flow in your standard exhaust. These 2 mods would be top of my list if towing, running heavy or pushing the vehicle hard.

The other simple thing to ensure is that you do not have lights, or light bars obstructing radiator air flow. Even some bullbars aren't great for radiator air flow.

Reading the why stuff, sound like I need more real time monitoring and get lowering mods. So I have the inter cooler.
Will need a egt gauge, free flowing exhaust (cat delete at least by the sounds of it maybe larger). A real time water level monitor needs to be spec Ed and installed.
Some research required
By the way the 3.2 sounds great but I’ll live with the2.2fornow
I think I’ll detune to 150 hp for a while until I am sure about egts

Originally Posted by clive22

Reading the why stuff, sound like I need more real time monitoring and get lowering mods. So I have the inter cooler.
Will need a egt gauge, free flowing exhaust (cat delete at least by the sounds of it maybe larger). A real time water level monitor needs to be spec Ed and installed.
Some research required
By the way the 3.2 sounds great but I’ll live with the2.2fornow
I think I’ll detune to 150 hp for a while until I am sure about egts

Do a CAT delete; some people will crap on about the legalities associated with this mod so do this at your own risk . Also get rid of centre muffler. Keep the rear little resonator right at the end of the vehicle to keep drive drone down.

Going to the 150hp tune is a good idea. When Bruce Davis did my alive tune I did not get the highest HP tune but rather a mild tune just to help improve low down torque and driveability.

I also got rid of the heat shield around my turbo. Did this help? I do not know for certain but I feel as though less heat around the turbo made for cooler operating temps. The theory makes sense but can't back that statement up with factual data from before and after removal so take this as you wish.

One other consideration: the coolant lids have been known to leak. I always kept 2-3 spare in my rear draw in case.

Originally Posted by clive22

It’s the 2.2. Early one

Clive, I have 2 Defenders both 2.2.
BAS 170 tune with BAS intercooler, 2.5" mandrel cat delete exhaust EGT fitted pre turbo.
Ancillary gauges fitted to monitor engine.
It is very easy to overheat engine even in standard trim easiest way is 6th gear with a slight grade @ 2000rpm engine temp rises in relation to EGT.
Quickest way to cool down is change back to 5th and instant drop in EGT.
These things run extreem EGT's with 900Deg common.
I now drive mine on EGT readings.
I am having a set of pistons ceramic coated to see if this helps.
Mark

Originally Posted by big harold

Clive, I have 2 Defenders both 2.2.
BAS 170 tune with BAS intercooler, 2.5" mandrel cat delete exhaust EGT fitted pre turbo.
Ancillary gauges fitted to monitor engine.
It is very easy to overheat engine even in standard trim easiest way is 6th gear with a slight grade @ 2000rpm engine temp rises in relation to EGT.
Quickest way to cool down is change back to 5th and instant drop in EGT.
These things run extreem EGT's with 900Deg common.
I now drive mine on EGT readings.
I am having a set of pistons ceramic coated to see if this helps.
Mark

Mark, I never in my 4 years of ownership saw anywhere near 900. North of 750 is not good.

If you're getting or have seen 900 its the BAS tune, it has to be. If you read my thread about egts (my probe was also in the exhaust manifold pre turbo) I never got near that figure, and mine was heavy and heavily modified. Not even fully loaded on 35 + degree days on 33s up long hills where I'd intentionally push to see what is the highest reading I could get did I see 900