Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: PUMA Electrical Problems after some rear Chassis welding...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Warner Area - SEQ
    Posts
    1,924
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Question PUMA Electrical Problems after some rear Chassis welding...

    Guys, Posting this on behalf of a mate...


    He had some welding done at the rear of his Defender 130 (2.4ltr Tdci) in regards to some mods to his sway bar setup. The person doing the welding "did" disconnect the "main" battery but wasn't told of the "aux" battery and therefore left it in circuit but it is only used for powering his aux fridges, etc so, in theory it shouldn't have mattered...
    Upon picking up the his 130 and heading back home the vehicle started doing the following:


    > Speedo above 40kms/hr started behaving erratically increasing up 18kms/hr above current speed w/o reason (Tacho did not vary at all)
    > Handbrake Dash light started flickering on/off
    > Vehicle Engine sometimes surging erratically above 40kms/hr - like when the VCV starts playing up, but he had his replaced 2mths previously




    Bit of History: The mate did refuel prior to driving the distance to the final destination & it performed faultlessly. Vehicle was performing as per normal before the welding was done... Fuel Filter Checked/cleared OK


    Ideas/suggestions from anyone would be appreciated...


    Current diagnosis from mechanics is possible damage to both the Engine ECU and Dash Instrument ECU which will be very expensive if this is the cause...

    Will using a 2nd hand ECU from a Ford Transit be an option?


    thanks in advance....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Torres Straits
    Posts
    3,503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    - any logged fault codes?
    - have the battery terminals been checked and made good?

    Might be long shot but the handbrake light might be a clue
    That light is earthed directly via the handbrake switch to the floor pan

    A mates 110 Puma tried to burn itself to the ground via dead shorting that switch!
    Quick use of fire extinguisher and killing the main fuseable link saved the day

    I could foresee that high resistance battery lead connection may give a funky partially earthed signal to the handbrake -



    The reason I am looking for the outside possibility is just a few weeks ago I rewelded my headboard - earthed right near the weld (as I’m guessing happened on your mates) and absolutely no problems with my 2009 130
    BUT and the big BUT I didn’t disconnect batteries
    There is the theory that leaving the batteries connected adds a big capacity between any stray current via the chassis. Disconnecting battery does not disconnect the ECU earth path to the chassis????

    Hopefully it is something simple

    Being a 2009 - if you have a BAS IID tool handy you could download the code email it to BAS and get their opinion / rewrite on it perhaps?

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Warner Area - SEQ
    Posts
    1,924
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Sorry I forgot mention that there was no codes up when the mechanic put the diagnostic tool on.

    I’ve since found out that he had longer brake lines fitted, so the handbrake light coming on might just be low brake fluid or right on the limit...

    Doing a bit more research... it was suggested that it could well be the speed sensor as this interacts with both ecu’s...

  4. #4
    alien's Avatar
    alien is offline A Keeper of the TGO Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bacchus Marsh Vic.
    Posts
    3,337
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Robmacca View Post
    Sorry I forgot mention that there was no codes up when the mechanic put the diagnostic tool on.

    I’ve since found out that he had longer brake lines fitted, so the handbrake light coming on might just be low brake fluid or right on the limit...

    Doing a bit more research... it was suggested that it could well be the speed sensor as this interacts with both ecu’s...
    I’m following with interest so appreciate the updates.
    Cheers, Kyle



    The Good Oil.
    When did you last visit?
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Posts
    2,638
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Likely...
    *The handbrake light flickering will be unrelated as its common on the 2007 on wards model for the handbrake cable to stretch and or fail.
    *Ensure the battery terminals are tight and secure.
    *The Defender has very very limited code so its not surprising there is nothing showing up.
    Regards
    Daz


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Warner Area - SEQ
    Posts
    1,924
    Total Downloaded
    0

    UPDATE....

    Bit of an Update....

    Spoke to the mate and it appears the flickering handbrake was definitely related to the install of longer brake lines and thus lowering the brake fluid level down to limit. Topped up and looks all good so far

    The Main issue: After a bit of research on another overseas forum its pointing more towards a faulty speed transducer. A new transducer has been ordered and will see what the outcome will be...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Warner Area - SEQ
    Posts
    1,924
    Total Downloaded
    0

    UPDATE.... #2

    Quote Originally Posted by Robmacca View Post
    Bit of an Update....

    Spoke to the mate and it appears the flickering handbrake was definitely related to the install of longer brake lines and thus lowering the brake fluid level down to limit. Topped up and looks all good so far

    The Main issue: After a bit of research on another overseas forum its pointing more towards a faulty speed transducer. A new transducer has been ordered and will see what the outcome will be...

    Just heard back from the mate... mechanics replaced the speed transducer and the problem is still there.... apparently next item to look at replacing is the instrument ecu...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Warner Area - SEQ
    Posts
    1,924
    Total Downloaded
    0

    UPDATE....#3

    The mate just got back to me & told me that the mechanics found the plastic gears within the Transfer Case that are used by the transducer to measure your speed - apparently the plastic gears were partially stripped.


    The mechanic removed the backing of the Transfer Case to access these plastic gears and replaced them and all is NOW GOOD according to the mate, so in the end not as bad as it was looking, just mainly labour costs to track down problem...


    Curious... These plastic gears - if they totally fail totally I wonder what happens to the drivability of the car? Would u still be able to drive it or not??

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Brisbane, Inner East.
    Posts
    11,178
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The guy that has done high level welding for me for many years will not weld on a vehicle unless the owner takes the alternator and batteries out first. People tell him this is no longer necessary. He tells them "take it elsewhere". He has been doing this for 50+ years and won't budge. Sick of being blamed for electrical problems.
    URSUSMAJOR

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Drouin East, Vic
    Posts
    2,780
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I did a mate a 'favour' a few years ago which involved some welding on his 2.4L 110, fried the main ECU. Boy was my face red. I now remove the ECU from the vehicle prior to any welding.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!