Thread: Puma Clutch

So my 2011 2.4 factory clutch finally flogged out 170k and won't engage suspect the slave but probably do the whole job and updates at once. Currently its parked up in the driveway considering whether its worth doing myself or get it trucked to MR at Redcliffe or Greg Tunstall at Cleveland.

I already know its not going to be a fun job on the driveway especially dropping the gearbox and getting in back in place but apart from that wondering what the difficulty rating is? Is it compulsory to swap or machine the flywheel? How hard is it to remove the flywheel? Easy to learn or is better to bite the bullet and get the workshop guys to do given they have the hoist and gear etc and do them regularly? Estimate $500-900 vs $2K+. Any information or advise appreciated thank you.

Just found this in my research on it, the Haynes manual is not the best has some editing faults and incorrect references in fact it refers to gearbox removal section in clutch slave section and vs versa anyway certainly nothing compared to an original Series III workshop manual but I'll paste this here for anyone interested:

Just done one on a puma racing, very straight forward as far as clutch changes go. And yes, replace the slave at the same time. You'd always replace the release bearing on a normal clutch change and the fact the puma has a concentric slave (which incorporates the release bearing) means it's good practice to replace it.

Quick run down..

Battery off, inlet pipe and airbox out, unplug all loom plugs needed (self explanatory when you have battery out) clamp clutch hose and remove from slave, n/s wheel off, unbolt bottom ball joint (completely remove bolt) and drop down wishbone, remove inner large cv clip, pull driveshaft out of drive cup (which remains in gearbox) and it can be tucked into wheel arch out the way, unbolt gear linkages, support box on jack, unbolt gearbox mounts (top and bottom) then undo all the bolts round the bell housing, support engine on jack and let box down, jiggle box off, pull it out n/s frm underneath. Obviously then you'll see your concentric slave inside your bell housing on the box, it's a straight forward few 8mm bolts and simple swap with new. Then it's just a case of swapping clutch out and refitting everything.

Only annoying part of the job (and I did a KA the other week that was the same) is the bottom ball joint bolts seem to alwas be well seized in so make sure you've got a decent torx bit for this and just spend a bit of time with wd40 and working it back and forth.

Puma also has a sort of half shaft on o/s of gearbox and a bearing mount. You'll see what I mean and removal is easy but you'll loose a bit of fluid. When refitting don't try and get that side back in when fitting the box, just leave it out and fit the whole lot back together, then jack the o/s up and pull the bottom ball joint that side and get drive shaft out the way, refit inner shaft into box and put bearing bracket back on, then fit outer driveshaft into inner shaft cup and put that side back together.

Keep the brake fluid res well topped up when bleeding clutch.
jameswrx is offline

The only work done on the inside is:

*Remove one piece floor mat.
*Remove rubber boot over gear sticks.
*Gearbox stick comes out with rubber boot (pry apart slightly 2 plastic tabs on each side of stick, stick comes out vertical)
*remove 8 torque screws retaining shifters.
*Lift out plastic cover over hi/low arm.
*Hi/low linkage, pry off ball at top of hi/low shift arm with a large flat screw driver.
*Lift both shifter out.
*There are 4 13mm bolts holding top alloy housing, remove the two that can easily been done from inside.

Everything else is done from under vehicle.