BAS remap Puma - Reviews / Updates?

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Originally Posted by clive22

I’ll let you know next week. Have a 130 with a 170 bas tune. Head gasket failed. Had bas intercooler. With the repairs have installed red arc get gauge upstream of turbo, cat delete. Will retune to 150.
I am fairly sure the 170 tune on long steep hills caused the issues, but you can never be sure.
I will post up my egt temps when I have enough data.
Clive

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Bugger. Thats a concern. ...Long hills in 6th or 5th? Could this have happened anyway with a standard tune?

Will de tune to 150 solve or better to go back to standards for long term durability?

Some people with egt gauges say temps can climb too high, standard mild or hot tune. So the important thing is to have an egt gauge and drive too it. Higher tunes will generate more heat and pressure that’s thermodynamics, so increase the risk of failure.
The accelerator, née fuel meter, does work both ways. Dropping a gear will help heaps. I thought I was driving safe, but without the egt gauge have no way of knowing.

Despite tommies enthusiasm these are in no way fast cars even with 170 hp tune and I will accept a loss of performance for reliability.

I will let you know how I go with temps. There is another threads or two on all this for more reading

Clive

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Originally Posted by clive22

Some people with egt gauges say temps can climb too high, standard mild or hot tune. So the important thing is to have an egt gauge and drive too it. Higher tunes will generate more heat and pressure that’s thermodynamics, so increase the risk of failure.
The accelerator, née fuel meter, does work both ways. Dropping a gear will help heaps. I thought I was driving safe, but without the egt gauge have no way of knowing.

Despite tommies enthusiasm these are in no way fast cars even with 170 hp tune and I will accept a loss of performance for reliability.

I will let you know how I go with temps. There is another threads or two on all this for more reading

Clive

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Thanks Clive, I hope it all works out ok for you.

Yes other earlier threads on BAS remaps are very enthusiastic. I’m interested in hearing from those with longer term / recent experience such as you, so I really appreciate you sharing your experience. It’s interesting that you seem confident just to drop back to 150 tune?

The majority of vehicles don’t have an egr gauge fitted, we shouldn’t need one really if the tunes are well suited to the vehicle. It would be interesting to hear from BAS. They don’t recommend installing an egr gauge or exhaust changes as far as I know. Just intercooler?

I’ve heard the 150 tune is equivalent to one of JLR’s own tunes for the 2.2, is this correct?

Dropping down a gear is clearly a good idea on hills. My ultraguage shows engine temps climbing to 100 degrees in 6th if I don’t drop back a gear on long 100km/hr hills. ...Is this as good an indicator as egr temps?

Do any indi’s have an opinion they could share on this question of aftermarket tunes and long term durability of the 2.4 or 2.2 engines?

Cheers, spudhead.

To be fair I think the high egt temps are a characteristic of a lot of modern Diesel engines. The tune just exacerbates this issue.
In hindsight I should have installed the egt guage from day 1.
If you had a 170 an intercooler and an egt and drove to limits temps it would be fine I suspect.
Mine is a touring 130 with weight, racks running at highway speed.
I have been burnt so naturally I will over correct and be too conservative.
There is a lot of good stuff about cat delete helping to. I have done this but reluctantly as in prefer my cars to be fully roadworthy and compliant.
The egr can be shut off in the software provided by bas too.
I will never know the real cause, but I do know the tune would have made the cause worse.
Clive

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Originally Posted by SpudHeadTed

Thanks Clive, I hope it all works out ok for you.

Yes other earlier threads on BAS remaps are very enthusiastic. I’m interested in hearing from those with longer term / recent experience such as you, so I really appreciate you sharing your experience. It’s interesting that you seem confident just to drop back to 150 tune?

The majority of vehicles don’t have an egr gauge fitted, we shouldn’t need one really if the tunes are well suited to the vehicle. It would be interesting to hear from BAS. They don’t recommend installing an egr gauge or exhaust changes as far as I know. Just intercooler?

I’ve heard the 150 tune is equivalent to one of JLR’s own tunes for the 2.2, is this correct?

Dropping down a gear is clearly a good idea on hills. My ultraguage shows engine temps climbing to 100 degrees in 6th if I don’t drop back a gear on long 100km/hr hills. ...Is this as good an indicator as egr temps?

Do any indi’s have an opinion they could share on this question of aftermarket tunes and long term durability of the 2.4 or 2.2 engines?

Cheers, spudhead.

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More power equals more fuel which in turn generates more heat driving up egts. The trick is to ensure that the engine can efficiently cool the inlet air and also get rid of exhaust gases quickly without creating turbo over spool. Again if you read the thread I posted earlier this is all covered.
The other thing to consider is engine load, for example Tombies 90 will more than likely be lighter than Clives 130 and as a result use less engine load to achieve the same amount of work required. EGT tracks behind engine load, the higher the load the higher the egt, that's why people are suggesting going back a gear. Again numbers are supplied in the egt thread.

Remap= quality intercooler & hoses + egr delete + decat + centre muffler removal + provent 200 catch can + egt gauge to monitor temp (pre turbo)

Make sure your not obstructing radiator air flow as mentioned earlier by Ken.

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Originally Posted by 1nando

More power equals more fuel which in turn generates more heat driving up egts. The trick is to ensure that the engine can efficiently cool the inlet air and also get rid of exhaust gases quickly without creating turbo over spool. Again if you read the thread I posted earlier this is all covered.
The other thing to consider is engine load, for example Tombies 90 will more than likely be lighter than Clives 130 and as a result use less engine load to achieve the same amount of work required. EGT tracks behind engine load, the higher the load the higher the egt, that's why people are suggesting going back a gear. Again numbers are supplied in the egt thread.

Remap= quality intercooler & hoses + egr delete + decat + centre muffler removal + provent 200 catch can + egt gauge to monitor temp (pre turbo)

Make sure your not obstructing radiator air flow as mentioned earlier by Ken.

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Thats a lot of major mods to provide a small power increase. ...are they all necessary?
Its starting to sound like the standard tune is better for both engine durability and the hip pocket.

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Originally Posted by 1nando

More power equals more fuel which in turn generates more heat driving up egts. The trick is to ensure that the engine can efficiently cool the inlet air and also get rid of exhaust gases quickly without creating turbo over spool. Again if you read the thread I posted earlier this is all covered.
The other thing to consider is engine load, for example Tombies 90 will more than likely be lighter than Clives 130 and as a result use less engine load to achieve the same amount of work required. EGT tracks behind engine load, the higher the load the higher the egt, that's why people are suggesting going back a gear. Again numbers are supplied in the egt thread.

Remap= quality intercooler & hoses + egr delete + decat + centre muffler removal + provent 200 catch can + egt gauge to monitor temp (pre turbo)

Make sure your not obstructing radiator air flow as mentioned earlier by Ken.

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Exactly right.

And I can tell you a light 90 really is quite quick, especially with the short shift kit to help get through the box.
It will outpace my modified and tuned D4 especially on overtaking manoeuvres.

I did a lot of monitoring with the 150AB tune before dropping in the IC and 170AB tune. This includes towing our van.

I have no excessive EGTs and as I mentioned before will always downshift on long climbs to keep revs up and avoiding fuelling up.

Not all tunes suit all applications, for a heavily laden vehicle working hard a more conservative tune is sensible.

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Originally Posted by SpudHeadTed

Thats a lot of major mods to provide a small power increase. ...are they all necessary?
Its starting to sound like the standard tune is better for both engine durability and the hip pocket.

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It’s a modest power increase but a significant torque increase. It’s the torque that helps.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Exactly right.

And I can tell you a light 90 really is quite quick, especially with the short shift kit to help get through the box.
It will outpace my modified and tuned D4 especially on overtaking manoeuvres.

I did a lot of monitoring with the 150AB tune before dropping in the IC and 170AB tune. This includes towing our van.

I have no excessive EGTs and as I mentioned before will always downshift on long climbs to keep revs up and avoiding fuelling up.

Not all tunes suit all applications, for a heavily laden vehicle working hard a more conservative tune is sensible.

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Hey Tombie,
What EGT's are you seeing?
Mark

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Originally Posted by big harold

Hey Tombie,
What EGT's are you seeing?
Mark

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Nothing over 575-600 under load. We do drive with the experience of gearing down on climbs etc.