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Thread: Calling for assistance from towing gurus

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    stillsons more likely...

    actually-- those marks are wrong for both,, hmmm

    bench vice?



    and if the "highs' are removed,, it will work fine..

    90% or wear is front and back,, normally no marks on the sides..
    most likely and then give the big nut the berries with the rattle gun...

    normally I just put the ball in place then with the split washer in grab the ball with a rubber glove or bit of inner tube then hit it with the 3/4 rattler from under neath then check for 400-500nm with the torque wrench.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graekynn View Post
    Harrop e-locker. Car seems to corner fine and no strange noises or steering feedback, maybe its just my paranoia, but the needle just seemed to drop real fast on the return trip and I was wondering whether incorrect preloads or even just the fact that its a new 'tight' centre might be causing drag.

    Again it may be nothing, but I swear whenever I get someone else to touch my car there is always some bull**** like that that happens....
    I would expect it to have not affected the fuel consumption. If its absorbing energy while unlocked you will feel a big temp difference between the front and rear diffs after a run. The rear may be a little hotter because its a hypoid diff, but if its dragging enough to see it in the economy it will be significantly hotter. But the diff should be either locked or unlocked, if its locked you will notice it in the carpark pretty quickly.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  3. #13
    DiscoMick Guest
    What he said.
    If it was fitted correctly and its unlocked it should not make any difference.

  4. #14
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    I have a Hayman Reece hitch on my D2a and it has a moulded face on it to hold the ball .

    hr.jpghr1.jpg

    There is NO excuse for the Shoddy work done on your hitch whatsoever, Take it back and get it done correctly
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
    2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
    4.6m Quintrex boat
    20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone

  5. #15
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    Yea agree id be checking the rest of the install for other issues, looks like the ball would of been clamped in a vice then tightened onto the hitch. I wouldnt be surprised if They probably tighten them all like that.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graekynn View Post
    I recently paid to have, amongst other things, a hayman reese towbar fitted to my 90. Everything looked fine in the afternoon light so I drove home. Fast forward to today, I decide to remove the receiver hitch just incase someone takes a liking to it and pinches it. Upon removal and closer inspection I noticed the mechanic used vice grips to hold the ball in place while tightening it up. This has left deep gouges in the ball on both sides:






    To say I'm disappointed is an understatement as you spend good money on professional labour to see a rookie move like this. My question to the brains trust is, can gouges like these damage the cup on the trailer or cause any issues while towing?
    I guess nobody pointed out the flats below the ball put there for that very purpose? Sheesh.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    I guess nobody pointed out the flats below the ball put there for that very purpose? Sheesh.

    The ball is wider than the flats, its been put in a vice (most likely sideways) if you look clostly you can see a set of marks in one of the pics where the leading edge of a flat is marked up.

    most likely they put it in the vice , put the torque on and its turned until the leading edge of the flat made contact.


    Definately a 3 letter company job..
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    I guess nobody pointed out the flats below the ball put there for that very purpose? Sheesh.
    What is not to understand about comment number 3 ?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeJay View Post
    What is not to understand about comment number 3 ?
    I think he meant to the installer.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  10. #20
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeJay View Post
    What is not to understand about comment number 3 ?
    What's the problem with reinforcing the stupidity of the installer?

    You don't like it, don't read it.

    I'll rephrase that: you don't like it, ignore it. Not hard.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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