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Thread: '06 wheel bearing

  1. #1
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    '06 wheel bearing

    Hey folks.
    Helping out a forum member(Gerard) with his wheel bearing issue.
    Not done one these spacer/end float type bearings, but from what I've researched so far relative simple job, if a bit annoying to set it up.
    yet to get the required parts to do them, and I'll post a pic of the wheel bearing in question.

    20200411_152938_crop.jpg

    Wheel bearing shot to bits. no roller cage, basically naught left of it other than a sliver of one roller cage, and more importantly there was no spacer on the stub axle.
    I can only think of two reasons(noting this is my first experience with this bearing type) as to why this could be.
    1/. sublimed itself due to heat back into it's constituent elemental particles!
    or
    2/. a previous mechanic simply didn't install it and still torqued it up to the nominal 210Nm, hence why it failed so miserably

    Wondering if any later TD5 type Defender owners have ever seen this type of failure where the spacer went 'missing'.
    My gut feeling is that it wasn't installed, and will take the time to check the opposite side too, just in case that was done by the same mechanic too.

    Anyhow, CV shaft snapped too, no way to remove the staked hub nut, had to get ground off. Hub not worth trying to repair, disc shot.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  2. #2
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    alien is offline A Keeper of the TGO Silver Subscriber
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    If there is no spacer there should be 2 nuts, the first to adjust preload and the second as a lock nut with a washer in between to bend over the flats.
    The spacer as used in the later Puma’s has a single one use nut set up.
    I’ve converted from the one nut set up to the earlier 2 nut system for ease of repairs and maintenance.
    Cheers Kyle
    Cheers, Kyle



    The Good Oil.
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  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply Kyle.
    the single staked nut was started on the TD5 from what I've read up on.

    D1's all have the setup you described(as do RRCs) that I've had experience with.
    But this one is definitely a single nut job, and no spacer when dismantled, hence why my concern about previous work done on the car.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  4. #4
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    alien is offline A Keeper of the TGO Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Thanks for the reply Kyle.
    the single staked nut was started on the TD5 from what I've read up on.

    D1's all have the setup you described(as do RRCs) that I've had experience with.
    But this one is definitely a single nut job, and no spacer when dismantled, hence why my concern about previous work done on the car.
    I agree with your concerns, having not encountered the spacer previously it would be easy to leave out and the preload not adjusted correctly.
    Cheers, Kyle



    The Good Oil.
    When did you last visit?
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/



  5. #5
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    Swap to double nut.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by W&KO View Post
    Swap to double nut.
    You reckon better?

    Noting that this isn't my vehicle too tho, helping out a member.

    I'd have thought this newer spacer setup would be better long term once done properly.

    EDIT: sorry the reason I ask if better, is that I'd have thought that long term the spacer design would negate the probability that the stub axle would wear, like my D1 had.
    I only just did all four stubs on my D1 couple weeks back.
    I did a couple of noisy bearings about 18 months prior and noticed about 0.001mm or so play between bearing and stub, so went about getting all new bits.
    Only got the chance to do them all recently.
    On taking out the two bearings that I didn't do, both those bearing seats wouldn't come off the stub axle on removing. No problem, all went to the scrap anyhow.
    I did keep two of the old stubs, the bearings I did change months ago, as they could be 'usable' for someone in an emergency. I wouldn't, as the tho mm or so of play would concern me for a long term solution.

    When I pulled all mine apart, I couldn't see any signs that they(stubs) had been done at any point in the D1's 400K life, so at least they tend to last.
    Other experience with stub axles was old RRC, I did the two fronts too.

    But my reason for asking why go back to the twin nut type is that I'd have thought that the spacer design would hold the bearing seat more securely on the stub as they gradually wear over time, and hence less likely to collapse themselves inwards and potentially wear the stub axles.

    Doing the job of measure endfloat, undo it all install correct spacer .. etc. isn't an issue, and the member this relates too did say his Defer is a long term proposition for him as of current.

    All comments re this topic appreciated.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post

    Noting that this isn't my vehicle too tho, helping out a member.

    I'd have thought this newer spacer setup would be better long term once done properly.

    EDIT: sorry the reason I ask if better, is that I'd have thought that long term the spacer design would negate the probability that the stub axle would wear, like my D1 had.
    I only just did all four stubs on my D1 couple weeks back.
    I did a couple of noisy bearings about 18 months prior and noticed about 0.001mm or so play between bearing and stub, so went about getting all new bits.
    Only got the chance to do them all recently.
    On taking out the two bearings that I didn't do, both those bearing seats wouldn't come off the stub axle on removing. No problem, all went to the scrap anyhow.
    I did keep two of the old stubs, the bearings I did change months ago, as they could be 'usable' for someone in an emergency. I wouldn't, as the tho mm or so of play would concern me for a long term solution.

    When I pulled all mine apart, I couldn't see any signs that they(stubs) had been done at any point in the D1's 400K life, so at least they tend to last.
    Other experience with stub axles was old RRC, I did the two fronts too.

    But my reason for asking why go back to the twin nut type is that I'd have thought that the spacer design would hold the bearing seat more securely on the stub as they gradually wear over time, and hence less likely to collapse themselves inwards and potentially wear the stub axles.

    Doing the job of measure endfloat, undo it all install correct spacer .. etc. isn't an issue, and the member this relates too did say his Defer is a long term proposition for him as of current.

    All comments re this topic appreciated.
    I would strongly recommend converting to the older 2 nut/lock washer method of bearing adjustment. I see no technical advantage in the newer staked nut/spacer method, but it would be easier & quicker in a factory assembly situation, which was, of course, why it was adopted.

    In a home maintenance context, one needs to have a selection of different sized spacers available if a bearing or hub change is necessary. This is expensive and a nuisance! With the 2 nut method, all one needs is a supply of lock washers when bearing maintenance is undertaken. Also, periodic adjustment of pre-load is very easy.

    Cheers,

    Lionel

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionel View Post
    .... This is expensive and a nuisance! ....
    Thanks Lionel.
    This much was obvious to me, remembering I'd just done all fours on my D1.

    Those spacers are silly expensive for what they are!
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    You reckon better?

    Noting that this isn't my vehicle too tho, helping out a member.

    I'd have thought this newer spacer setup would be better long term once done properly.

    EDIT: sorry the reason I ask if better, is that I'd have thought that long term the spacer design would negate the probability that the stub axle would wear, like my D1 had.
    I only just did all four stubs on my D1 couple weeks back.
    I did a couple of noisy bearings about 18 months prior and noticed about 0.001mm or so play between bearing and stub, so went about getting all new bits.
    Only got the chance to do them all recently.
    On taking out the two bearings that I didn't do, both those bearing seats wouldn't come off the stub axle on removing. No problem, all went to the scrap anyhow.
    I did keep two of the old stubs, the bearings I did change months ago, as they could be 'usable' for someone in an emergency. I wouldn't, as the tho mm or so of play would concern me for a long term solution.

    When I pulled all mine apart, I couldn't see any signs that they(stubs) had been done at any point in the D1's 400K life, so at least they tend to last.
    Other experience with stub axles was old RRC, I did the two fronts too.

    But my reason for asking why go back to the twin nut type is that I'd have thought that the spacer design would hold the bearing seat more securely on the stub as they gradually wear over time, and hence less likely to collapse themselves inwards and potentially wear the stub axles.

    Doing the job of measure endfloat, undo it all install correct spacer .. etc. isn't an issue, and the member this relates too did say his Defer is a long term proposition for him as of current.

    All comments re this topic appreciated.
    I’ve never experienced the staked nut arrangement.

    My previous defender did 400,000 on the one set of bearings and i suspect they’re still rolling around.

    Two nut arrangement works just fine and easy too set up, no need to carry a torque wrench and dial gauge or what ever is required for the stack nut.

    My current defer’s bearing have 120,000 on them and hopefully will keep spinning for another 300,000.

    I do struggle to understand the number of failures that pop up and the number that seem to just replace.

  10. #10
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    Just an update on this: (noting this was for a forum member, and not mine).

    We did stick with the standard spacer arrangement, and it all turned out fine.
    Can understand how it could be easily messed up, and as it was my first experience with that design, didn't feel 100% confident, other than the design made sense, so not overly complicated to do it.

    Anyhow, the Defer is back on the road and felt nice to drive in what I'd always imagined a Defender with aggressive muddies would be like to drive.
    My only other experience with a traditional Landrover drive was my dads S2a many years back.

    Thanks for all feedback, much appreciated.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

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