Thread: Towing and braking with a 2 tonne load

Before dropping $1400 on over ride hydraulic
Could I suggest you run the rig over a weigh bridge with full trip load (Syd-port)

Boat & trailer manufacturers make caravan manufacturers look like law abiding QUeens Councils when it comes to stated “load capacities”

An 1800kg rig could easily weight 2000kg with fuel / water gear onboard

If your Gross trailer weight - ie what you are dragging down the road is over 2T
You need electric over hydraulic brakes with a breakaway system

Very very common on boat rigs
Not difficult to install
Much better braking performance

The way things are going with caravans being weighed an measured there is no way I would chance an overweight rig diving perhaps the busiest/ most enforced road in Australia ?


If under 2T fully rigged
Standard over ride hydraulics on the front axle will keep you legal - for less $ than electric/hydraulic
But a good upgrade throw a set of calipers on the back axle too.



Now the big question
How long do you plan on keeping the boat?
If only a short term throw any stoppers on
If it’s a longer time plan I’d stump up for full stainless braided lines / bronzed rotors / stainless calipers

Else you will be spending another grand in a few years replacing a bunch of non operating rusty junk!

Steve

Originally Posted by BilboBoggles

The biggest difference I made to my braking was throwing out the brake pads and replacing with OEM, in my case Ferodo. My 110 had really crappy brakes, hard pedal when braking, and not much braking. The previous owner had upgraded the suspension and brakes, with slotted rotors, and what I assume were some expensive aftermarket pads. Probably great on a race track, but they seemed to be as hard as nails.

Any way a new set of ferodo pads seems to have made a big difference.

.........- but I've spent the best part of every weekend for the last 5 years towing 3T with a variety of 110s some with ABS and some without.

Thanks for the comprehensive explanation Bilbo. I've already gone with the hydraulic brakes that has a separate master cylinder not inside the coupling - that appeared to be the sort that was originally on the trailer but had seized many years ago.
Certainly won't be towing on any gravel roads so that's not a concern but thanks for pointing it out. Yes, getting the old 110 to slow abruptly enough to activate the coupling was my main concern. Have towed the boat now with a 2003 3 litre Patrol and it was a doddle - barely felt the trailer under braking - as you say, just a soft nudge as it came into action. Negotiating small roundabouts with an 8.5m trailer is interesting though; need to use both lanes and act like king of the road.
cheers Gerald

Hi Steve, I put answers and comments in red to make it easier for both of us

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Before dropping $1400 on over ride hydraulic already done mate, was quoted $3K for electric and it sort of blew the budget
Could I suggest you run the rig over a weigh bridge with full trip load (Syd-port) put the trailer on the weighbridge and it came in at 540kg

Boat & trailer manufacturers make caravan manufacturers look like law abiding QUeens Councils when it comes to stated “load capacities”

An 1800kg rig could easily weight 2000kg with fuel / water gear onboard boat apparently weighs in at 862kg plus 217kg for the motor totalling 1619kg plus say another 200kg for fuel, water etc so just a touch over 1.8T - rest of any gear will ride in the car or another car

If your Gross trailer weight - ie what you are dragging down the road is over 2T
You need electric over hydraulic brakes with a breakaway system

Very very common on boat rigs
Not difficult to install
Much better braking performance

The way things are going with caravans being weighed an measured there is no way I would chance an overweight rig diving perhaps the busiest/ most enforced road in Australia ? I am curious as to exactly how much the whole rig weighs and will be collecting it in a fortnight to 3 weeks and will, as long asI remember, take it to the weighbridge for an official weighing.


If under 2T fully rigged
Standard over ride hydraulics on the front axle will keep you legal - for less $ than electric/hydraulic that's what I've got
But a good upgrade throw a set of calipers on the back axle too. yes, i was thinking along those lines as well - thanks for the good advice on all points.



Now the big question
How long do you plan on keeping the boat? good question - maybe 10 years??
If only a short term throw any stoppers on
If it’s a longer time plan I’d stump up for full stainless braided lines yep, got them/ bronzed rotors / stainless calipers got gal on both rotors and calipers

Else you will be spending another grand in a few years replacing a bunch of non operating rusty junk! I'll be caring for them quite well, trust me- i'm pretty good at washing these things down. Yes, I know it's bloody hard to get salt out but with discs it shouldn't be too much of an issue

Steve