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Thread: Quick mid-brake-disc-change hub nut question (2010 110)

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    Quick mid-brake-disc-change hub nut question (2010 110)

    Hi All,

    A quickie...

    Attempting my first brake disc change/ front hub assembly removal: 2010 Puma 110.

    I've got the first (front) staked-type hub nut off, a struggle whereby the (admittedly cheap, in a blue packet) tube spanner was zero help and the cold chisel came out.

    Any advice on tightening the new hub nut up when it all goes back together, given the noticeably high torque required (220Nm)? I wont be able to achieve that with the cheap tube spanner.

    Tool shop time? Does it really need to be that tight?

    Cheers in advance,

    Sam

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    Change to the old style hub nuts?
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
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    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Change to the old style hub nuts?
    Hmm... seems on further reading that a few have done this, and is suggested in this thread here

    Anyone got any thoughts on this? I like the idea of being able to disassemble/ inspect/ repair in the bush a little more easily.

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    Just closing this out... I capitulated and bought a 52mm deep socket (and a torque wrench)

    ... it turns out that 210Nm, and the staked nut design, ain't so bad when you have decent tools. Lesson learned.

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    The draw back of the staked nut is in my opinion twofold

    If you don’t remove the folded over tang adequately - the process of undoing said but Rogers the thread form

    Secondly, although you may be able to re-use a stake nut - eventually you won’t be able to secure it in place once all nearby flange is folded and broken away from the machines locking groove.


    Having said that - the spacer and high torque technique for a pair of tapered bearings gives a more consistent pre-load than other methods ....

    For what it is worth I recently changed over my tdci to old style lock nuts
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

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    I also changed to old-style paired nuts and lock tabs. There is another drawback to the single staked nut and spacer- the spacer is specific to those particular bearings in their brand new condition. It does not enable adjustment of preload when reassembling worn bearings nor when replacing bearings. I believe it is simply a manufacturing shortcut that removes the requirement for skill from the assembly process; just bang it all together and rattle it up with a big rattle gun set to hellish tight.

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    I have the spacer, and paired nuts and tab. Best of both worlds?

    Correct spacer as per shop procedure with proper gauge etc, and the inner nut done up to same torque as stake nut spec.

    I'm no expert, but my logic (which I tested with Ian at MTE4x4 Morwell prior to closure) is this would allow me to re-use the nuts and spacer is just re-greasing existing bearings, but if an unplanned bearing change was required, to remove spacer (as I don't have a gauge) and return to the usual method of setting pre-load.

    Be great to hear others thoughts on this approach.

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    It’s the same as gearbox rebuilds
    Variable spacers are NOT in play for variance in bearing dimensions
    They are used for variance In casting and machining variance

    Same bearing number from three different manufactures including whoflungdunglast200km rubbish will be within microns

    That UN-CNC machined stub axle you have will lie somewhere in the range of acceptable deemed by LR in 19dickety two which was +2metres - 0.765miles

    Spacers take up variance in variable tolerance

    For all intents and purposes bearings and Shells have zero tolerance


    The only reason i wouldn’t use the spacer AND dual nuts is how do you work your “mojo” when you can just crank her home ???
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

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    An interesting discussion, and, armed with a little more experience and knowledge than a couple of days ago, I decided to stick with the staked nut design...

    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    If you don’t remove the folded over tang adequately - the process of undoing said but Rogers the thread form
    A sharp chisel bent/cut the flange back out of harms way, its pretty thin/ soft.

    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    Secondly, although you may be able to re-use a stake nut - eventually you won’t be able to secure it in place once all nearby flange is folded and broken away from the machines locking groove.
    Other than in an emergency, re-using these (mangled) nuts is out of the question surely? They're very cheap.

    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    Having said that - the spacer and high torque technique for a pair of tapered bearings gives a more consistent pre-load than other methods
    Thats the thing... I see this is a significant advantage (to Land Rover, the average mechanic (me), and therefore to owners (also me), and worth putting up with the minor disadvantages - that the vehicle Engineer (and not the mechanic/ user etc) , via this arrangement, controls the bearing pre-loads.

    Set and forget

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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    I believe it is simply a manufacturing shortcut that removes the requirement for skill from the assembly process; just bang it all together and rattle it up with a big rattle gun set to hellish tight.
    This is a benefit to most, not a drawback.

    I'm playing devils advocate here, for an alternate point of view, and in defence of the long-suffering Design Engineer.

    Also worth considering are the risks (in terms of liability, and life, to LR, to everyone), of a poorly adjusted wheel bearing, poorly torqued nut, poorly staked washer, coming loose when a vehicle is at speed.

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