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Thread: Front driveshaft in or out of phase

  1. #1
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    Front driveshaft in or out of phase

    I had a uni joint bearing fall apart on the front driveshaft after hitting the tracks in Dwellingup a couple of weeks ago causing shudder on acceleration.
    I was looking at just replacing the uni joints, but the driveshaft had been damaged from it hitting the nut so thought it better to be replaced
    I took the shaft to Hardy Spicer and after they priced up replacing the short half, both unis and balancing (also spline not perfect), it works out a lot cheaper to get a new shaft.

    I didn’t even consider checking the phasing of the old shaft until after they had pulled it apart but new shaft came in phase
    After reading a couple of old threads, it appears the joints should be out of phase by 45 degrees
    I asked at HS and they recommended it be in phase, new shaft has grease nipples aligned and balanced to suit
    What would you recommend

    A) put shaft in as is

    take it back to HS to get realigned and balanced

    C) do the realignment myself and not worry about balancing (mates opinion)

    D) leaved it out and have fun doing donuts and snakies on gravel tracks (son’s opinion)🤣🤣

    Front driveshaft in or out of phaseFront driveshaft in or out of phase
    Gav
    1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
    1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)

  2. #2
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    I went thru the same question with my driveshaft. service manual suggests 45 degree angle between yokes, but most people suggest they line up.
    I had a chat with a driveshaft guy about it, and he started asking if the driveline was internally balanced, or not- too many questions I didn't know answers to, so just left it.

    If I were in your shoes, I'd probably go option A, as the manufacturer of the shaft probably set it up that way for a reason.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  3. #3
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    Option A.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  4. #4
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    Front drive shaft on a Deefer has to be out of phase or it will vibrate.

    It's all to do with the pinion angle, and is noted in the WSM.

    The Land Rover diff pinion points up at the t/case, it isn't at a complimentary angle to the t/case output shaft so either the drive shaft is run out of phase or a double carden joint at the t/case end is used.


    Driveline Geometry 101 – Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts

  5. #5
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    I thought that phasing is not adjustable - well it is not on my older shafts as the splines only go together one way.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

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    1977 FC 101
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Front drive shaft on a Deefer has to be out of phase or it will vibrate.

    It's all to do with the pinion angle, and is noted in the WSM.

    The Land Rover diff pinion points up at the t/case, it isn't at a complimentary angle to the t/case output shaft so either the drive shaft is run out of phase or a double carden joint at the t/case end is used.


    Driveline Geometry 101 – Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts
    So in your opinion Rick, I should take it back to HS and get them to realign and rebalance?

    That, from what I’ve been reading, is what I should be reading is what I should do

    I managed to get hold of Kevin from Rovertech who said as they came out of the factory (and as the workshop manual states)
    they should have an offset, he also said, if that’s the way HS have supplied it, that’s how I should fit it and see how it goes
    I suppose what he’s saying is if I fit it and it vibrates HS are liable to fix it????

    I would rather pay the extra now and do the job onceFront driveshaft in or out of phaseFront driveshaft in or out of phase

    Front driveshaft in or out of phaseFront driveshaft in or out of phase
    Gav
    1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
    1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)

  7. #7
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    I'd run it out if phase.
    But it won't hurt to talk to HS and discretely mention the pinion angle and factory out of phase setup to compensate.

    Years ago a mate had a mid 80's 110 with a mild vibration in the front end.
    He had the drive shaft in phase.
    An old mechanic looked at it.
    "Run it out of phase"

    My mate is a degree engineer Front driveshaft in or out of phase

  8. #8
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    I'd simply slip the joint out and rotate it, I really dont think that will cause an issue.
    I also suspect if you take it back, they will take it out to the workshop and do exactly the same thing.
    Regards
    Daz


  9. #9
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    Needs to be out of phase.

    this might help explain why .


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    I'd simply slip the joint out and rotate it, I really dont think that will cause an issue.
    I also suspect if you take it back, they will take it out to the workshop and do exactly the same thing.
    Hi Dazza

    Will this not put the shaft out of balance?
    If I have an issue later will warranty still be covered?
    If I had just replaced the uni joints myself, I would have made sure it was out of phase as recommended in the workshop manual and by many here
    But, being a brand new complete unit I think I will take it back to the manufacturer and at least get there opinion
    They are not far from my workshop, so I will try to find the time to get it back there myself
    I’ll let you know how I go and what the outcome is

    Front driveshaft in or out of phaseFront driveshaft in or out of phaseFront driveshaft in or out of phase
    Gav
    1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
    1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)

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