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Thread: Switches for my Defender

  1. #1
    bio326 Guest

    Switches for my Defender

    Hi,

    Need a bit of advice on the best way forward with switches for my 2013 Puma. Adding some spots and rear lights and now need to hunt down some switches for the dash. Is there any issue with the after market ones? Any tips on were to go or what to avoid would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

  2. #2
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    Hi - I like adding ones that match factory where possible. Have a lightbar and set of spots. They spots came with a horrible red light switch I will replace to factory style.


    2001 Disco D2 V8
    2008 Defender 90
    2013 Disco SDV6

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by bio326 View Post
    Hi,

    Need a bit of advice on the best way forward with switches for my 2013 Puma. Adding some spots and rear lights and now need to hunt down some switches for the dash. Is there any issue with the after market ones? Any tips on were to go or what to avoid would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    I don't know anything about what the best quality switches are but I recently installed a " missile launcher" type of switch near the rear door of my 110 so that the work light would not be inadvertently switched on and blinding drivers of vehicles behind me.

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  5. #5
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    Carling switches are good. I use the Contura V version and have bought all mine from Mud. Carling Switches & Accessories – MUD-UK. They have a good range of rockers, but they are fairly readily available.

    I made up a little panel to mount the switches in:
    Alasdair, the MY16 Keswick 110

    If you have any standard switch locations left the original style are good. I've bought them from Mulgo in the past, but they don't seem to have them on their website anymore.

    Cheers,
    Jon

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bio326 View Post
    Hi,

    Need a bit of advice on the best way forward with switches for my 2013 Puma. Adding some spots and rear lights and now need to hunt down some switches for the dash. Is there any issue with the after market ones? Any tips on were to go or what to avoid would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    the factory switches that are in your dash ie AC are positive switched. the aftermarket bearmach OEM style switch are typically negative switched. Mulgo used to sell positive switched OEM style switches but not sure any more. Long and short, if you buy bearmach switches you need to think about a negative switched wiring schematic. not hard, just different. The OEM style switches need a relay as they don't handle much current. Bearmach sell engraved covers for spot, flood etc.

    If you have a 130, you will have blanks all over the dash. The 130 isn't blessed with the fancy pants offerings in the 110 and 90 or you can try to source the side panel like in Tikka7mm08 post. Not sure if you can buy separate to the double din facia.
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLD View Post
    the factory switches that are in your dash ie AC are positive switched. the aftermarket bearmach OEM style switch are typically negative switched. Mulgo used to sell positive switched OEM style switches but not sure any more. Long and short, if you buy bearmach switches you need to think about a negative switched wiring schematic. not hard, just different. The OEM style switches need a relay as they don't handle much current. Bearmach sell engraved covers for spot, flood etc.

    If you have a 130, you will have blanks all over the dash. The 130 isn't blessed with the fancy pants offerings in the 110 and 90 or you can try to source the side panel like in Tikka7mm08 post. Not sure if you can buy separate to the double din facia.
    Also I found that I could not make the LED indicators on the aftermarket switches work. I did think I was maybe burning them out and that they needed a ballast resister in series with the indicator LED but after mucking around with one I had removed the LED started working so maybe they are just crap. The switch itself works OK though and I wired up a negative activation for my elocker with the appropriate switch cover. I was going to do the same for the winch enable solenoid but I lost interest when I couldn't make the indicator work. Pretty sure the switches I sourced were bearmach ones.

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

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