Thread: What should I upgrade on my MY15 D90 to future proof it ?

At 65k I’d say not much.

I’m at 120k on my MY16 now and the only thing I’ve had fail was the intercooler at about 90k. The clutch slave cylinder started leaking at about 110k, but I replaced that, along with the clutch, before it failed.

I think the intercooler is worth doing - replace it with a BAS. You might replace the intercooler hoses with silicone ones while you are in there, but really there’s nothing wrong with standard ones. If you do, use quality ones such as BAS or Allisport. I replaced mine really because the elbow is such a pain I didn’t want to deal with it on the road.

The clutch is worth considering as the slave cylinder is a gearbox out job, but I think at 65k its too early to worry about.

I’ve just fitted ATBs to the rear and centre diffs, which got rid of all my driveline slop. I also added an Aschroft adapter shaft while the transfer case was out but didn’t need to. My original adapter shaft was lubricated at the factory and was perfect at 110k.

If you are going to start using it for touring you may want to consider replacing the shocks, if you haven’t already. The OE shocks are pretty good but a set of Bilsteins or Konis are an improvement.

The only other minor thing I can think of is the rear brake shields have a habit of cracking. Mine did so I added some Nugget Stiffies.

Really the best thing you can do is just keep on top of the maintenance. Get under it regularly. Any thing that looks worn or is leaking replace it before it becomes a problem - you know, just the obvious stuff that you probably do already.

Cheers,
Jon

You're on the right track with the output shaft.

For the other items, you can opt to wait until they fail and upgrade accordingly. The trucks are pretty resilient unless you have no mechanical sympathy.

For some insurance, you can get the additional support brackets for the front axle. While your truck may not be affected by the welding on the front axle anymore, you never know plus, it's cheap insurance.

If you have a two pin rather than four pin front diff, you can opt to install the four pin version OR you can upgrade all three diffs to Ashcroft ATBs!

You can also switch out the rear drive members and CVs for the heavy duty one piece types (also available from LOF, and no, I'm not affiliated with them, just a happy customer). Then you can opt to upgrade the front CVs and drive members to the heavy duty Ashcroft ones.

For the rear dampeners, you can get the Gwyn Lewis pin to pin mount.

Fuel cooler guard or in your case, the fuel line guard to protect the line when it goes along the front end of the chassis.

When the time comes, you can switch out the bushes with SuperPro ones.

Upgrade the rear A-Frame ball joint with an extended range, greasable, heavy duty one from Gwyn Lewis.

Upgrade your air system with the Nugget Stuff sealed air system kit.

This is what comes to mind right now thus far

Oh, get the IIDTool BT from either Pete Bell or GAP Diagnostics. Worth it!

+1 for the nugget stuff stiffies, the disc guards can fall off and take out the ABS sensors or their wires usually when its most inconvenient, a cheap and easy fix. There was nothing wrong with my turbo hose except that by the time you get it out it's easier to put a new one back in. If you are doing the intercooler as a preventative measure then I'd be tempted to leave the hoses if the upgraded wire wound one has been fitted with the support bracket on the alternator.

Regards,
Tote

I would get the extended front seat runners, a gas strut for closing the rear door and a spare wheel carrier to take the weight of the spare off the rear door, if you haven't already.
I would also fit Airbag Man rear air bags for extra support.
Silicone hoses are the way to go.
Plus bulbs in the headlights.

Want to future proof it? Easy…

Park it up, in a garage, and treat it with kid gloves.

We’ve just been offered $90k for ours.

Some great advise here, thanks guys.

If i went a BAS tune (140bhp) and intercooler route, who would people recommend I talk to in Brisbane/Gold Coast area ?

Do you really mean future-proof?

Defender was about 15 years out of date already by 2015… so future-proofing is somewhat paradoxical. So many issues on these cars are fundamental to the techniques/ technologies employed, and are essentially unfixable/ part of the charm.

My 2c. - If you live in a big city, you’ll be fine to deal with mechanical issues as they arise. Though the output shaft is a great pre-emptive item to change out which is likely to improve the ride/clunks. My experience has shown mechanical problems usually aren’t major, to do with engines and gearboxes, that may stop you, but irritating things to do with fitments, interiors, accessories etc. Door central-lockers, speakers not working, rattles, bangs, dents, etc.

Corrosion and leaks are a problem… so maybe that’s one thing area to look into if a shiny/ garaged car is your goal (no judgement - many shiny city cars out there commanding high prices).

I should add (for the sake of variety of opinion) that my idea of future-proofing has nothing to do with adding more power or changing out factory drivetrain components. In this respect LR did a good job, and I’ve never thought that the car lacked power. I like the ride and find the seats are comfortable for road trips. The a/c works fine too.

My future-proofed defender would have:

Auto gbox
Cruise control
Well-built doors
Apple Car Play
Split rear door
Reverse sensor
Central locking that works from further than 50cm away
No dust/water leaks
Proper body/chassis corrosion protection
A bit bigger fuel tank

These features would assure my continued ownership and enjoyment into the future.