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11th October 2022, 01:27 PM
#1
Puma [or any ABS] Defender brake bleeding method?
I'm at a point where I need to bleed the brakes on my 2.4 MY10 110.
I have read that the workshop manual "simply" indicates that the ol' fashioned pump-the-pedal-'til-fluid-is-clear method is how to do it (and yes, am aware of the advice of NOT using long strokes, to avoid sending muck through, and siphoning old fluid out first).
I have also seen that some have:
- had problems getting a proper bleed, and have used the activate-ABS-on-low-adhesion-surface method to finish the job, or
- made a bridging switch to the ABS to activate the ABS pump, or
- used the procedure on their diagnostic tool of choice to activate the ABS pump and bleed the circuits, or
- used a vacuum bleed tool.
So, my question is: for a Deefer with ABS, does the ol' fashioned pump the fluid 'til clear work in real life, for most people?
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12th October 2022, 02:08 PM
#2
I'm not expert but it sounds like you are already across the issues.
Regular method worked for me on regular changes, until I undid the brake line to one of the callipers, and then I had to send it our local specialist for a power-bleed, because of the ABS issues you raised
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12th October 2022, 06:43 PM
#3
Dont use vacuum pump, better to use the pressure bleeder.
I have a pressure bleeder if you want to use it, Im near mornington so pm me if you want to use it.
2015 Defender 110
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