Thread: Remap for 2.4, questions

Keen to hear more too.

I put one of these in my 2.4 90 and very happy with after a few years now: Bluespark Pro + Boost Control, Performance Tuning Chip | Chip My Ride Chip Tuning

I got my wife's D4 SDV6 EGR deleted with a reprogramme...it is down to 7.9L/100km as I haven't been driving. Love to delete the Puma's EGR.

I am unsure how much influence if any the tune could improve injector noise, this is electro mechanical and unlikely to change.

Pete’s tunes are smooth and very drivable though, I’d contact him directly and ask his opinion for your personal needs.

And yes, he can tune out the EGR.


Also consider speaking to Cambo (Old Jaguar). He may be doing the 2.4 also.

I looked on the BAS website and see they ship the intercooler to NZ but not the remap dongle. Is it able to be sourced out of Oz?

I would contact BAS directly. My guess is it's just a web site setup thing, not a market restriction thing. The intercooler probably lists more freight options as it's relatively bulky, meaning quite a bit of freight cost variability.

I have both the BAS remap & intercooler and found BAS great to deal with. IMHE it was always Pete Bell who answered emails himself, did so very quickly and (given timezone differences) gave the impression he works round the clock!

As to the products: very happy with them, been in for quite a while, zero issues to date.

this is a general comment regarding tunes not specific to any one brand/business...

*a tune will not reduces injector noise.
*there is a difference between injector noise and injector rattle, ensure you are talking about the same this.
*ensure the injectors were coded in the ECU and the pump or rather the fcv was calibrated or a re-learn was done (different software/tools/manufacturers call it different names), not doing both of these causes the 2.4 to rattle on idle and on hard throttle.

*Keep in mind ANY tune that is listed with a specific HP or NM rating in ONLY at best a average. EVERY engine I put on a dyno has a different figure to the last one or the next.

and most importantly...
*does your new engine have a warranty? if so tuning it will highly likely VOID YOUR WARRANTY

Thanks for the replies. As regards the injector noise, the previous engine (had 120,000km on it when I bought it, 310,000 when I decided to renew it) always made a rattling noise particularly at low revs under medium throttle, I have been given to understand that this is typical of these engines but had read a while ago from someone who had had a remap of some kind that this rattling noise was eliminated. I don't know why this would be and my knowledge of common-rail diesel systems is quite rudimentary but i was interested to know if reduction of the noise is a common side effect of tuning. The engine of course is under warranty (would want to be for the money) and this is a consideration. I'm not a believer in trying to get massive power increases at the cost of reliability and longevity, however I would be interested in the improved driveability that I see reported. It seems to me that a manufacturer's tune is necessarily quite conservative, so some reasonable gains should be achievable.
I'll be in touch with BAS; these questions were in my mind on a Friday evening so thought I would seek some answers here over the weekend.

I've got a BAS intercooler, fitted after the OEM one failed, as others have said, very easy to deal with.

Regards,
Tote

I run a BAS 150hp tune on my 2.4. I purchased the GAP bluetooth dongle (into OBDII plug) and the GAP software for both my ipad and iphone (can't recall if extra for 2 or pay once and download as many you like). Loading a tune is easy as. the diagnostic on the GAP has got me out of trouble a few times. One incident i chaffed my DBW harness and half way between Bourke and Tibooburra i experienced intermittent loss of throttle. The GAP tool i was able to see the throttle input values and lead me to chasing the harness. It's worth the $ for those odd occasions.

As others have said, the injector noise is no different with the tune. Mine still sounds like a bucket of bolts until she warms up.

The tune offers to turn off the EGR in the tune. The hardware remains in place. For a while i ran the tune with the EGR turned off (EGR was on last legs and was too cheap to replace it). When i had to do a diagnostic or learn, the near dead EGR caused issues with the learn procedure. Notwithstanding that i should have known better, I blanked off the exhaust manifold and removed the hardware. A mistake. For any diagnostic or learn procedures (injectors, SCV etc) i have to plug in the EGR valve otherwise the ECU throws a wobbly. Even then, its a palaver to do a learn and i've spent hours getting one to stick. With the EGR turned off in the tune, it can gunk up with soot and when you turn it on to do a diagnostic, it messes with the learn. That's my experience. In hindsight, i would leave the EGR insitu and turned on in the tune. They are not hard to replace.

I'm heavy at 2.8T fighting weight and 3.5T when loaded for touring. The tune makes bit of a difference, but its still a small engine trying to push a heavy 4wd. I didn't notice any difference in drivability from the tune (neither better or worse, same same).

BAS are easy to deal with. IICC the dongle came from Canada direct from the supplier and BAS sent the tune by email.