Yes, at the moment……I’ll check at first try this morning to check if the rpm,s hit the required level…..with jumpers from bat to starter ..I’m asuming that all tachometer /speed etc comes from the cps
BTW, are we assuming that the starter is good?
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Yes, at the moment……I’ll check at first try this morning to check if the rpm,s hit the required level…..with jumpers from bat to starter ..I’m asuming that all tachometer /speed etc comes from the cps
2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch
OK, I am far from being a guru on this, there are folks here that are.
That said, I have some experience with this issue. In your first post you mentioned checking two CP sensors with a DMM, with similar ohms. Do you remember what the readings were? IIRC they should be upwards of 200Ω, but not zero or OL.
When you repaired the "twitch" did you remove the CPS from its location?
When you turn the key to "ON" does the MIL perform its self test and then go out? Does it come back on when you try and start?
My memory of this is that the MIL will illuminate if there is any fault with the CPS other than the air gap, which is why I ask if you removed it. They are reasonably sensitive to excessive air gap.
I can see why you suspect the CPS, given your problems seem to start when you ****ed with it, but it could be coincidence, or it could be you disturbed something else while you were at it. As mentioned, TD5s are simple beasts, but they are quite sensitive to low voltage, and that's where I'd be looking now. The voltages you mention seem totally inadequate. I take it you have no other vehicle or jump pack to try a jump? When you were near the CPS is it possible you disturbed the wires to the starter? A loose batt terminal there could cause sufficient voltage drop to create issues.
Not a very coherent post from me, I'm just throwing ideas.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Started first up thismorning…..I used jumpers between bat and starter [3c outside] 3 turns…
Now I cut back that epoxy shrink wrap and there was contact between a strand of cpu wire and the shielding …and posibly picked up and soldered in by me…cleaned that up.
Alts putting out 14.7 at idle and at about 2400 rpm…..voltage on nano dosent drop on cranking
..guess now’s time to check the alt in car under load and posibly the starter..
Just to make Shure ..
Thanks everyone , there contancerous things…a few little things and they run like **** lol…fix them and there a different car
Cheers mark and god bless mr nanocom lol
Last edited by mfc; 7th August 2023 at 09:36 AM. Reason: Fun
2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch
Good news. Problem is that when you fix two things you don’t know which one solves the issue. I would be getting that battery checked, but perhaps the possible short in the CPS wiring was the problem and prolonged cranking was draining the battery 🪫
With a full battery a TD5 should start almost instantly. Glad you got it going, and thanks for the update. I wish more people would come back and report how a problem was resolved.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks