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Thread: 2002 defender cps issue

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfc View Post
    Yea there both good[cps] but the plugs crap……..was searching for one to scrounge

    I’m betting on dead cells in battery as well ….won’t hold over 10ish volts on nanocom whilst cranking
    I fitted my trans on my back in what was essentially a paddock. Doing this I got the CPS caught up in the bellhousing. No way was I taking it out again, so the car has a Jag CPS soldered into the old loom, as there's no other way on a D2 other than rewiring and repinning it at the ECU, or replacing the whole engine harness. Runs fine.

    Of course, I'm "gunna" fit a decent plug......

    EDIT: I don't think the CPS wound up in with the flywheel, but the plug sure did.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfc View Post
    Yea there both good[cps] but the plugs crap……..was searching for one to scrounge

    I’m betting on dead cells in battery as well ….won’t hold over 10ish volts on nanocom whilst cranking
    Yeah if you're not getting over 11v cranking on the nanocom you're in strife. Probably a combination of a few things, as usual with the bloody TD5...

  3. #13
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    Still no luck

    Quote Originally Posted by akelly View Post
    Yeah if you're not getting over 11v cranking on the nanocom you're in strife. Probably a combination of a few things, as usual with the bloody TD5...
    I’m thinking that I’ve got a break in the cps wire below my repair or possibly the fuel temp wires, although both these should leave a code..

    Will a buggered alternator stop a td5……I’d think that the voltage drop on a new battery whilst cranking could be a buggered alt[got a spare somwhere] ?

    I’ve even bypassed the fuel cut of switch
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  4. #14
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    Good voltage in under seat box and relays checked ……all fuses good..
    Headlights [leds ]flashing[ rather than flickering] and dimming slightly on cranking……
    I’ll check the connectors on starter and alt when it’s dark[easier in confined spaces]

    I’m realy thinking the alts **** its self, killed the battery as I tried to start it on the old battery…
    Don’t fancy trimming the loom back for no reason..,the wire is like glass…I’ll cut another cm of the tubing back to make Shure I haven’t melted insulation and it’s shorted.

    Opinions or options greatly appreciated
    ….everything except cranking voltage checks out
    Regards mark
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  5. #15
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    one thing to check is that the CPS wires aren't anywhere near the starter - they need to be kept back as far as you can have them from there. Your nanocom would be showing other faults like alternator I think? Having been through this I feel your pain, I was at it on and off for about 2 months trying to get my new TD5 to start. Ended up being about 5 different things and I chased them round and round.

    In the end the TD5 is a very simple engine, there's only two things that will really stop it - fuel pressure and the f-ing crank sensor.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by akelly View Post
    one thing to check is that the CPS wires aren't anywhere near the starter - they need to be kept back as far as you can have them from there. Your nanocom would be showing other faults like alternator I think? Having been through this I feel your pain, I was at it on and off for about 2 months trying to get my new TD5 to start. Ended up being about 5 different things and I chased them round and round.

    In the end the TD5 is a very simple engine, there's only two things that will really stop it - fuel pressure and the f-ing crank sensor.
    I can’t see any alternator on the nanocom…only voltage dropping on cranking,everything checks out …I’ll jumper lead from battery to starter and try that …only thing I haven’t checked yet is that there’s not a short between the 2 cps wires at an older repair….though I’d have thought Ud get a cps or taco code on the nanocom

    Otherwise alternator out tomorrow
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  7. #17
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    the CPS error codes are notorious for not showing up. I think (but not 100% sure) that if your alternator was giving trouble you'd get a fault code in the nanocom.

    The whole time my CPS wiring was playing up I never got a fault code, the only time I saw one was when I disconnected the CPS and cranked the engine.

    Are you getting RPM showing up on the board instruments page when you're cranking it over? RPM needs to be over about 300 (from memory) for the CPU to allow a start.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by akelly View Post
    the CPS error codes are notorious for not showing up. I think (but not 100% sure) that if your alternator was giving trouble you'd get a fault code in the nanocom.

    The whole time my CPS wiring was playing up I never got a fault code, the only time I saw one was when I disconnected the CPS and cranked the engine.

    Are you getting RPM showing up on the board instruments page when you're cranking it over? RPM needs to be over about 300 (from memory) for the CPU to allow a start.
    I had them up until I’d trued to start it……..cleared them…..then purge fuel rail so no more codes
    The rpm is somthing to check…I think I’m not even getting an rpm reading
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  9. #19
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    no RPM on the board instruments page = no CPS signal.

  10. #20
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    A buggered alternator will stop a TD5, but I don’t know if it will prevent it from starting with a full battery. Probably not.

    The CPS should at least illuminate the MIL if faulty or if the wiring is defective.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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