Thats not a good diagnose...
cheap fix but not likely, if its slow to get lit off and then responds normally, watch what the pressures are doing, if they are low (say sub 2000psi for common rail) while canking then once the engine starts they rise quickly to the nominal demanded rail pressure, Thats not the sensor failing. Thats a pump or regulator issue. Hope for the LP pump loosing prime from the tank to the LP pump. Actually hope for it to be the pressure reg not closing up to the closed position. thats the cheapest fix.
I dont recall the Fords having an electricl lift.. Used to be you had to vac the line up to the LP pump IIRC
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
That is what I hoped for last time I had issues Dave. Turned out Both pumps were bung. There was no starting issue that time, only insufficient fuel to supply demand which put it into limp mode. No limp mode this time though so maybe I can be hopeful again this time.
Cheers, Billy.
Keeping it simple is complicated.
Thanks for your help everyone. I'll keep you posted on developments but I'm dreading the bill for this one.
Cheers, Billy.
Keeping it simple is complicated.
no, they just wear out. As ive mentioned a few times, the rattle when driving on cold and the rattle returns when right up to operating temps.
When the last model Defender TDCi was newish i had trouble getting my head around an engine that the injectors needed replacing so quickly, i used to get them tested, which is a complete waste of time, the cost in getting them tested is better put towards new injectors.
this is a different symptom to the FCV failures on the 2.4, which also causes rattle when cold driving and hard starting.
you will get fault codes when its a electrical fault related to injectors.
2.2 the plug connector on the injector seem prone to any tarnish on the pins, when there is a connection fault the ecu turns off that injector until the engine is turned off then re-started, but if the connection fault returns, the ecu will drop out the injector again. unplugging and cleaning with some contact cleaner etc, they come good.
the injector seals are prone to failure as well, this shows as the engine seems excessively breathy, as in while running undoing the oil filler cap and it pops straight off. often diagnosed as the engine is done.
Regards
Daz
I've stopped driving it now. 3 seconds to start cold slightly irregular idle for two minutes slight hesitancy when accelerating from 2,000 revs. Cranked it for a minute and forty seconds today and she didn't start. As it is no longer running normally I've parked her up until she goes into the shop.
Cheers, Billy.
Keeping it simple is complicated.
Shank's pony? Foot Falconing?
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
Shanks's pony is almost due for the Knackers. I have to slum it in the wife's Beee-em.
Cheers, Billy.
Keeping it simple is complicated.
Break My Wallet.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
My wallet will be no more than dust after this episode.
Cheers, Billy.
Keeping it simple is complicated.
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