Member
Maxi Drive (MDE) Front Drive Flange Removal issue
Hi (thanks Tins for pointing me here). I have a 2013 Defender that came fitted with Maxi-Drive MDE drive flanges front and rear. I have a leaky swivel housing (drivers side) and thought I would replace the swivel housing seal and learn a little by removing the drive flange and front hub assembly. Already stuck at the MDE drive flange.
Have removed the 52mm MDE nut, the circlip on the axle, the spacer behind the circlip, and the bolts holding the flange to the wheel hub. I understand the drive flange is supposed to be a tight fit on the hub but there seems no means to pull the flange off given the installation procedure calls for beating (ok, tapping) the axle into the flange with a soft hammer.
I have a small gap at the back of the flange, wide enough to fit a paint scraper but not anything more substantial, and the flange can turn on the stub axle. I have read you can prise the flange off through this gap, but I cannot get a pry bar in there and am a little reluctant to beat anything in there. I have fabricated a slide hammer adaptor from a large washer held to the flange by the 52mm nut and used a large slide hammer to try and remove the flange with no success. I am wondering if there is a puller able to clamp onto the nut shoulder of the flange (very small area) that could pull against the stub axle or if I need to heat the flange up?
Or just give up as I see on U-Tube you can, apparently remove the whole hub assemble and half shaft from the axle housing and replace the swivel housing seal from the back side…? Would solve my immediate problem at least!
Anyway, appreciate any insights and help with this issue. Cheers.
LordRover
SubscriberIt should come off. Could be corrosion or even some RTV holding it. I would persevere. Even some judicious use of a small chisel between the flange and hub should shift it. Both parts are pretty robust if you’re not too rough. They can be a pig if they haven’t been off for a while. Good luck. I have never needed to use heat. A 50% mix of acetone and ATF makes a good penetrating oil.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
ChatterBox
what he said...Originally Posted by Tins
Regards
Daz
Wizard
SupporterThe drive flange bolt to the hub not the stub axle, minor terminology
Never needed much more than a screw driver/chisel
Yes you can remove the whole assembly but from memory it’s damn hard getting the axle spline back into the diff centre
Member
Perseverance has paid off! Your input pushed me to have another go, so much appreciated. Increased the gap between drive flange and hub sufficiently with the slide hammer and home made adaptor and some prying to get a puller behind the drive flange. Then completed removal pulling against the stub axle. Success!
Now to find a 52mm socket deep enough to get on the lock nut!
So thank you for your input.
Wizard
SupporterYou should only need a 52mm tube spanner, way cheaper than a 52mm socket
Readily available as I think Nissan uses a 52, plumbing section at Bunnings may have a 52 tube
Member
You are correct re terminology (and that it should come off). I was trying very hard to use the correct part names studying the section drawings in a manual I downloaded too. Still learning the language of vehicles! Have fixed the error in my post!
Wizard
SupporterAll good, you’re having a crack[emoji[emoji6
]
[emoji6
]][emoji
LordRover
SubscriberIndeed.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
ChatterBox
just some info...
I use a 52mm socket with a 1/2 in drive over a tube style spanner, its just simply and easier to use.
Regards
Daz
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