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Thread: Traction Control Issues in a 2010 Defender Puma

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by HardCharger View Post
    Did you plug in diagnostics? If so, any trouble codes?
    I only suggest this as when my traction control ( 2.4 Puma ) was activating during random times which eventually resulted in lights on the dash which reset themselves after shutting off the engine, I plugged in my IIDTool and it showed a problem with the front left side wheel speed sensor.

    After trying a new sensor and still having the problem, it was later determined that something was fouling the ring that the sensor was reading. Upon taking apart the necessary bits, we saw that the one shot grease, which was a lot thinner than it was supposed to be, was all over the CV and the ring the sensor reads. Cleaned up and refreshed the grease on the CV bearing and adding appropriate grease to replace the thin one shot, put everything together and the problem disappeared.

    Just in case this helps you.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot View Post
    Anti stall was sending you down the hill??

    In mine it only "anti-stalls" to idle or just above. In low range going down hill (reverse) it only throttles to idle or so... So reversing down the hill you hear the engine just after key start and then everything goes quiet until it thinks the revs are getting below idle.

    I thought all these systems were pretty much the same on the td5/puma but seems not...
    I tested it a couple of times before disconnecting the plug, all has been good for the past 5yrs since I did it

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robmacca View Post
    Guys... Just after some helpful info on the Traction Control in a 2010 Defender Puma...


    I recently completed travelling the Canning Stock Route in Western Australia & I experienced some frustrations with Traction Control activating when driving over some brutal Corrugations. I could feel the traction control apply the brakes to the RHS front wheels which became annoying. I tried the method of pressing the brake a number of times before starting the engine but even though it looked like it worked via the lights on the dash, it didn't...


    Is there another way of turning OFF the Traction Control? When travelling over the corrugations at 20-40kph, it became annoying and unsafe at time...


    Suggestions?


    Is it a matter of pulling the fuses?


    thanks in advance
    yes there is and also bypassing the reduction in power to the drive train when you select low range from 100% to 69% that LR dont tell you about but apparently is designed to "save: the drive train but was Ok on older models?? ... left me stuck halfway up a very step shingle slope because I couldnt acclerate fast enough around a corner before getting onto the uphill shingle slide, the "unoffical" land rover agent did it for me (as a friend) and i could turn off traction control and or also choose whenter to still get full power in low range
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  4. #14
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    This is interesting....

    Do tell us more.

  5. #15
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    I believe put some kind of "fix in the wiring so it "fooled" the sensor /ECU
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by sashadidi View Post
    I believe put some kind of "fix in the wiring so it "fooled" the sensor /ECU
    I do think you would want the TC/ABS module working for regular driving as it's obviously your ABS. Could be insurance implications.
     2005 Defender 110 

  7. #17
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    Yes absolutely thats why there was a switch in the dash that couldnt be bumped on etec
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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robmacca View Post
    I had some bad experiences when 4WDriving and trying to reverse back down a hill I didn't make it up. When reversing back down I was trying to go as slow as I could (ie: Clutch out & in gear & foot on the brakes as you do) & I found the ECU fighting against me and wanting to increase the Revs, thus increasing the speed - very dangerous when reversing down very steep hills... I found disconnecting this plug solved that issue
    I've not experienced that in my MY10 puma (130 so no ABS). I've found myself reversing alot in low range and never felt the anti-stall kicking in. AFAIK the anti-stall is load and rpm sensative. Ie the engine/ecu senses additional load on the engine and drop in rpm the anti-stall is triggered to bump the rpm. Reversing shouldn't trigger anti-stall because there is no load on the engine and rolling backwards should increase rpm relative to speed. The only scenario i can think of is if you were so heavy on the brakes that you were dragging the rpm down into a stall. In that case, that's driver moderation of the brakes not system error. You might have to trust the car will find its equilibrium. I find the 130 wants to roll away on me at that moment you release the clutch and before the engine compression kicks in. its a split second of "oh ****" but if i trust the car, it arrests the speed under engine compression/gearing and after that the reverse speed can feel too slow at times. Also i'm running 4.11 gears so the mechanical advantage of gearing is better than 3.54s and that also means my gearing and engine torque makes it harder to pull the rpm down into a stall. From all accounts the 4bd1 is hard to stall too due to the torque off idle.

    as for the other posters with finicky ABS, one of the benefits of not having ABS in a 130. Just one thing less to go all "defender weirdness" on me. I'm getting to that age that a 200tdi is too sophisticated to go touring in.
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

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