Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: front radius arms and bushes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Godwin Beach 4511
    Posts
    20,688
    Total Downloaded
    32.38 MB

    front radius arms and bushes

    okey dokey

    am told these need doing in the not too distant future..

    do the arms usually need replacing as well as the bushes or is it just bushes normally?

    any things to specifically look out for?

    truck has 310000 on it...
    2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
    2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi

    "Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
    "If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
    'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
    “What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
    "We can ignore reality, but we cannot ignore the consequences of ignoring reality.” – Ayn Rand
    "The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius

  2. #2
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,704
    Total Downloaded
    1.63 MB
    Bushes only. Easy if you have a 20 ton press and the press tool.

    Otherwise take the arms off and take to an LR specialist.

    When I did my '87 RR I took one arm off at a time, and had the bushes done, refitted the arm, then did the other. I left the suspension all sitting there and the car sitting on chassis stands.

    Replace the bushes at the rear of the arm at the same time.

    I'm doing the P38A bushes next week. I turned up the press tool on Friday.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Yinnar South, Vic
    Posts
    9,943
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Just the bushes, only things that wear incorrectly are generally, Panhard rod, they wear the bolts, the bolt holes AND the hollows in the rod itself occasionally and rear trailing arms, which wear the bolts (diff end) and the holes flog

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Id do the bushes and the bolts usually the axle mounts dont go out but if they do My usual trick is to weld a pair of 1/16th inch thick washers on either side of the elongated holes, buid up some weld metal on the inside of the elongation then very very carefully die grind and file the hole back to round, leave the washers in place weld them on permanantly and fit bolts that are about 1/4 inch longer than the originals.

    If you already have this mod, dont do it again.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bracken Ridge - Brisbane - QLD
    Posts
    14,276
    Total Downloaded
    0
    you will need a good press and a tool to insert them so that you do not push on the centre piece

    at the time of doing mine i didnt access to a press so i pick up some exchange ones from m r. nice and easy for me as they are just over the bridge

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,484
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The bushes are easy to change, but as others say you will need a press.

    If you jack the vehicle up on the chassis rails, remove the front prop and drop the track rod arm ball joint out you can take both radius arms out at once and get the movement you need over the springs/dampers easily.

    Id always recommend using genuine LR bushes though (or OE ones), non of the cheap crap pattern ones - they dont last 5 minutes.


    If you havent got access to a press then you can use Polybushes - some people love'm, others hate them. I dont have a strong opinion either way, only that original are cheaper, last long enough and are easily sourced to replace when your away...
    Regards,
    Jon

  7. #7
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,704
    Total Downloaded
    1.63 MB
    I don't remember dropping the propshaft nor the trackrod when I did mine.

    Or did I do the rear trailing arms ....?

    No, I did front and rear.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Padstow NSW
    Posts
    4,501
    Total Downloaded
    0
    drop track rod and use superpro poly bushes, its the way of the future

    cheers phil

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Yinnar South, Vic
    Posts
    9,943
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by discowhite View Post
    drop track rod and use superpro poly bushes, its the way of the future

    cheers phil
    *cough* I just ordered a set today, I'll "test" them *cough*

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    *cough* I just ordered a set today, I'll "test" them *cough*
    a tip.
    Generously grease the pins and bushes at the chassis end of the radius arms. It lets them (and the arms) rotate relatively to the chassis, as the bushes can't distort at the diff end as Haultech ones do.
    I just used copious amounts of a marine/calcium sulfonate grease, rather than the Super Pro stuff. It seems to have stayed in place OK.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!