What Garry said is true, in 'PLIP learn' mode, BOTH alarm fobs need to be coded at the same session, otherwise the one that may have been originally working will not be coded anymore.
Take it back to the dealer that coded in the other one for you, and get them to do BOTH at the same time. They shouldn't charge you again as this is how it is meant to be done.
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
2001 Disco 2 - EU3 TD5 Auto
(Build Date: 08/01)
Mods: 2" Lift, HD Springs, Rear Bags,
ECU upgrade, IC, Silicone Pipes, EGR, De-web,
Digital EGT, Boost & Trans, 160W Spots,
12000lb Winch, Icom UHF & Codan NGT HF
245 75R16 Toyo 'Open Country' M/T's
If a battery box was plugged into the cigarette lighter before the battery was disconnected, would the current be maintained and the key fobs not need resetting?
So if I understand right:
1.open car with key fob that works
2.replace battery in key fob
3.repeatedly press buttons to do 'magic reset of key fob brain'?
That is it?
Another question: My key fob works only if I am really close, say max 2m and not even if standing right behind at the rear door. Is that normal? It's really a nuisance at times. Where is the antenna in the defender?
Thanks!
I could be wrong, but maybe if you go way out of range of the vehicle and then change the battery, would it still work when you come back in range of the vehicle?
That worked on our 2009 Defender.
Yes that is sadly normal. There was a thread on here a few years ago- I'm sure a search would find it- on extending the antenna wire to get better range. I did that with disappointing results, still have to be almost leaning on the car most of the time for the fob to work.
From memory the antenna is behind the fuse box under the steering wheel.
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