Thread: Fitting the Traxide Lighting Upgrade and Driving Light Kit to a 2007+

Mine is a 2006, but there would be little difference. I fitted the relays to the right front guard under the blank air inlet (top of guard) and connected to the right headlight, bringing power from the starter motor (rather than battery)

There are access nipples on the firewall behind the gauges (where the main wiring goes through) to push the switch wire through.

It all works fine on mine, so hope this helps.

You reading my mind I was thinking about this today too.

Just remember the Puma has H7 bulbs, was that the same for the Td5 Defender? The Tdi's had H4's. I'd send drivesafe a PM and ask him to confirm.

Only place I can immediately think of for the relay is under the driver's side wing (via the black panel).

As for the spotlights, I've already got a latching switch for the dash, just need a correct fascia for it. The switch was a cruise control one from the D2, the fascia just snaps off. This means you can mount it in a blank area on the dash. So I suspect if you pull the radio out and pop the centre dash you'll see somewhere to get the wires through.

Please post how it all goes as I'm keen to learn what you end up doing.

What spotlights have you got?

Originally Posted by dm_td5

You reading my mind I was thinking about this today too.

Just remember the Puma has H7 bulbs, was that the same for the Td5 Defender? The Tdi's had H4's. I'd send drivesafe a PM and ask him to confirm.

Yes I need to understand the implications of this.

Only place I can immediately think of for the relay is under the driver's side wing (via the black panel).

I'll look there.

As for the spotlights, I've already got a latching switch for the dash, just need a correct fascia for it. The switch was a cruise control one from the D2, the fascia just snaps off. This means you can mount it in a blank area on the dash. So I suspect if you pull the radio out and pop the centre dash you'll see somewhere to get the wires through

.
The dash panel will be removed. There are two opportunities through the fire wall.

My switch is a genuine front fog lamp switch that is a push on push off type that will fit into a space that one of the blanks occupies...the trick there will be getting the dash illumination lighting to work..I will probably graft onto the appropriate rear fog wiring for this..I've been pouring over wiring diagrams until my brain is addled.

Please post how it all goes as I'm keen to learn what you end up doing.

Yes I will

What spotlights have you got?

Lightforce 170 moved from the Disco. They have been good lights.

Originally Posted by one_iota

My switch is a genuine front fog lamp switch that is a push on push off type that will fit into a space that one of the blanks occupies...the trick there will be getting the dash illumination lighting to work..I will probably graft onto the appropriate rear fog wiring for this..I've been pouring over wiring diagrams until my brain is addled.

Why don't you take the dash illumination from the cigarette lighter light.

Originally Posted by dm_td5

Just remember the Puma has H7 bulbs, was that the same for the Td5 Defender? The Tdi's had H4's.

The owner's manual says H7 60/55 w but I thought that H7's were a single filament bulb (two connections) used on lights with seperate low and high beam lamps

I had a look at the lamp yesterday and it is definitely a twin filament (3 connections) so by my reckoning they are H4's and the "H7" is a misprint .

Originally Posted by one_iota

1. Finding a location for the two relays..they need to be close to the lights ...

Why does the relay need to be close to the light?

Originally Posted by Greylandy

Why does the relay need to be close to the light?

good question, i installed mine over the weekend and thought about installing the relay in the battery box but it meant running five or six wires back to the battery box instead i one wire from the battery box to the relay and shorter runs to the lights

Originally Posted by Greylandy

Why does the relay need to be close to the light?

This is my understanding:

The longer the run to the lights from the relays the greater the voltage drop and the thicker the cable required to prevent this.

The kit uses 8 B&S (Battery and Starter) cable to get the power from the battery to the relays. From this point a thinner guage wiring can take over without appreciable decrease in voltage. So the closer to the lights the thinner that cable needs to be.

Whilst the relays are fused there is also an automatic resetting circuit breaker that is located close to the battery as usually fuses and circuit breakers should be close to the power source.

Then there are the connections to the existing headlight wiring that power the relays. The kit uses the plug from one of the lights to trigger the relays. So the relays should be close to the lights for convenience.

The switch for the driving lights will be mounted in the dash area so
conveniently the relays are also close to the dash via the firewall.


The Puma engined Defender presents some challenges in terms of relay location but the drivers side above the wheel arch as recommended by Numpty is the best. The down side is the additional length of power cable required to get there from the battery. Unfortunately attaching the power to the starter motor supply (another good idea from Numpty) is difficult to do in the Puma given to amount of refinery pipework in the way. I'd hate to have to remove the starter without removing the rest of the defender first!

I have some ideas as to how to modify the kit and have emailed drivesafe. I'll let you know how I go. It's a job for this weekend.

I'm sure Drivesafe will chime in