Yeah I guess I should of known some thing of this age would need work.... But it is the nowest one I have ever owned and I could not affoard any thing any later! Cheers Ben
Then why on earth did you buy a car that is 16 years old???? If you weren't prepared to get things fixed.
Still bit naughty of yeh friend to not warn you of other problems but at the same time if you don't know any thing about landrovers bit silly of you not to get it checked first.
I also thought 93 was the change over year for 300tdi......or was it 94?
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Yeah I guess I should of known some thing of this age would need work.... But it is the nowest one I have ever owned and I could not affoard any thing any later! Cheers Ben
Yes, theres always the 'grass is greener' thing going, that is until you see the problems other makes have as well. Also, it is 16 years old as mentioned, and with that history you dont know how it was maintained/treated over that time.
Im no Defender expert, so cant comment on the price, but I have seen plenty of 96-97 300tdi fenders going for over 16k....
Carlos
1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
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 OldBushie
					
					
						OldBushie
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Mate you would be supprised how easy they are to fix,they are cheap also.Have you checked that it has oil into the drivetrain,pop the rubber gromets off the axle flanges and look for wear,check the A frame ball joint,really it isn't hard or costly.As mentioned above if you didn't want to work on a car why buy an old one?.Give it a check over and post what you find. Pat
Pretty normal for it to take a little bit of time for the new friction modifiers to 'lift' the old ones off the synchro hub faces and embed themselves.
This will happen with any dedicated manual trans fluid and can can take up to 800km or so.
Syntrans, Redline MTL, Neo MTF would all work in the LT77.
 Wizard
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Not bad actually.
Learn to work on it yourself. The timing belt is a easy job - get a manual/RAVE CD for it.
Also second hand items are sometimes the best way to go with these vehicles.
That's normal. Try the different oils that have been mentioned, but even if it doesn't work - the transmission will keep going for a lot of km's yet.
200tDi always sends a bit of black smoke on start up.
Seat bases are easily fixed. Go second hand or retrim them with Exmour gear.
Radio - crap they are $80 new for a decent CD player now. And 30 mins to fit them.
I don't think so. I think you got what you paid for it honestly.
Older vehicles are like this. It's a bit jack on your mate for not letting you know. If it had been me that sold the vehicle, I would've helped with the mechanical side at least!
Cheers
Chris
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Thanks for your advice every one! I think I will stick at it and get thing sorted out over time... I will just look forward to being able to sit at 100km/h some what comfortably in it one day!
Thanks again every one...
Cheers
Ben
Ps: does any one have a snorkel for a 200tdi they want to sell!?
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						Subscriberp.s - I second the vote on the axle flanges causing drive train slack - I've had to change mine every 60,000k's - IT's almost like a new car after that. The original flanges seem to wear quite quickly. I bought a set of aftermarket ones from Paddocks in the UK that are much longer lasting - at least that's what they reckon.....
I feel your pain but all cars need things done to them it is a sad reality I'm slowly learning to accept.
I have a Toyota hilux dsl dual cab and I had a lot of work on it when I first bought it and mine was in excellent condition well cared for etc. I know a guy who paid $12500 for a Toyota only to have the entire engine blow up after a week. So they aren’t necessarily any better.
Maybe a brand new one might be? But I know someone with a brand new very pricey Audi that spends more time in the workshop then on the road.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I'm with Pat303.check aframe ball joint.mr have a greasable one that lasts well.
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