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Thread: DIY 300 tdi timing belt?

  1. #11
    2stroke Guest
    To lock the flywheel I tapped a 10mm thread into a 1/4 to 1/8 B.S.P brass reducer and ground down the end of a low grade 10mm bolt to the size of the slot in the flywheel, screwed the reducer into the hole in the bellhousing as an adaptor then screwed in the bolt to engage the flywheel slot. For the fan I ground down a 30mm open ender to make it "thinner" and that worked fine but remember the fan thread is L.H. Oh and to lock the pump I used a drill bit.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by warren9981 View Post
    <snip>
    Make sure you get the spanner to remove the fan as well. It is awkward without this offset spanner.
    The viscous hub spanner is a standard 32mm fan spanner that should be available almost anywhere specialist tools are sold, eg good auto parts wholesalers. They are pretty cheap.

    The kit including the pins sounds like a great idea.
    The locking pins can be fabbed relatively easily, eg the pump one I use a masonry drill bit shank as it's exactly the right size. Flywheel locking pin I made, (BSP adapter drilled and tapped to take a turned down 6mm bolt that screws in to the slot to lock the flywheel) etc,
    Crank holding tool is a bit harder, but a few of us have made them. Some dealers just used a ground down chisel jammed in one of the flywheel slots, which seemed a bit too bodgy for me.....

  3. #13
    2stroke Guest
    I checked the fan nut spanner after Rick 130 posted the size, it is indeed 32mm, it was 6 years ago and I forgot that for some reason I ground out a 30mm to 32mm.

  4. #14
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    Hey I was going to ask this myself on the D1 forum but I actually used the search function...HA! Still don't know much but I was wondering if the cam belt was possible to be a DIY job, seems like it is, just not sure if I can do it in an apartment building underground car park hmmm might need an actual garage...hello parents!!

  5. #15
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    Should be a thread on the forum about changing the timing belt. This is something you can do in your apartment basement if you have the tools. Make sure you get hold of the bolts to lock the crank/flywheel and camshaft.
    Warren

    Currently Landroverless - Still interested
    Formerly: 2003 D2a Update TD5 Auto. Platinum edition. ARB Bar, 36" LED light bar, cargo barrier, dual batteries.

  6. #16
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    Yep its DIY.

    Not that that means too much coming from me, I consider complete engine rebuilds DIY.

    if you go at it and need a hand or more details drop me a PM for my number.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #17
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    Thanks so much guys especially that offer Blknight...legends on this forum!

  8. #18
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    Here's a question...I saw that I can buy a major or a minor kit...which would I need? It hasn't snapped or anything I just want to do it because it hasn't been done for a while and the manual says every 3 years...not that I'm sure that's necessary but better to be safe than sorry and it's been about 5 or 6 years since I bought it and I have never had it done. I've only driven about 20,000km on it though.

    Anyway, I was wondering about the major or minor kit...?

  9. #19
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    Logan,Queensland
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    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  10. #20
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Young Angus View Post
    Here's a question...I saw that I can buy a major or a minor kit...which would I need? It hasn't snapped or anything I just want to do it because it hasn't been done for a while and the manual says every 3 years...not that I'm sure that's necessary but better to be safe than sorry and it's been about 5 or 6 years since I bought it and I have never had it done. I've only driven about 20,000km on it though.

    Anyway, I was wondering about the major or minor kit...?
    You only need a minor kit so long as you have the updated pullies in there. (you should) if your crank pully is missing a flange you need to order one in.

    the age of the belt is reasonably irrelevant but the number of KM's the vehicle has done counts. 80K km is the recommended interval which lines up with each second alt major service on a 10K service interval.

    you hear some people claiming that their belts have done hugely more KM than the recommended interval and theres no reason to doubt them. theres a number of variables which come down to how the vehicle is used. A timing belt that has spent its life pushing 1 low at high RPMS is going to suffer more wear in the same number of KMs than one thats spend most of its life cruising around in 5 hi.

    one that was installed correctly is going to last a lot longer than one that was half assed.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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