Reply With QuoteInspect the fly wheel. If it is smooth, without ridges and doesn't look bad it's probably ok. The idea is that the clutch plate should wear out first.
Hi All,
In the process of replacing my trans case with recon unit and have decided to replace the clutch, pressure and bits at the same time. The big question is whether I need to have the fly wheel skimmed, The motor was replaced about 45000km ago with new crate 300tdi which I assume came with a new flywheel? What should I do?
Thanks
Mal
Master
Inspect the fly wheel. If it is smooth, without ridges and doesn't look bad it's probably ok. The idea is that the clutch plate should wear out first.
Thanks Foz,
I cant seem to drop the box!!!! it is snagged on the hi lo lever and I am loosing my patience please help with any advice.
Thanks Mal
RoverLord
as a very general rule of thumb considering a fairly driven, generally unmodified vehicle...
In the series, 3.X v8s and the mechanical diesels 1 flywheel is good for 2 friction plates before it needs machining or replacing, the same seems to hold true for the pressure plate.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I doubt it'd need a clutch, mine's done 44000 km since I bought it ( I doubt it had a new one just before it was traded in). I decided to order a new one to fit while I had my box out and measured the thickness as a comparison. The old one was only 0.7mm thinner and the new one is a 130 one. My box went in and out (with transfer attached and the exhaust still on) but it was easier going in with the handbrake off the transfer.
RoverLord
put it back ,remove the lever and the upper box selector mech.Originally Posted by malsgoing130
not fun but doable.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Moderator
Check everything out.
At 220,000km on mine the fork broke, (pivot punched through) and when we slipped it apart the slippers on the fork were stuffed (one had worn through) the thrust race staples had gone ta ta's and the fingers on the pressure plate were badly worn and the heights were all over the place.
I replaced everything, including the gearbox input shaft seal and rear main + the spigot bush (soaked overnight in warm engine oil)
I had the flywheel skimmed and balanced at the same time, even though it looked fine.
Thank you all for the replies. After a bit more swearing and grunting managed to drop the box out!!The preasure plate looked OK but on closer inspection found the fingers badly worn, motor only 45000km old!! Thrust bearing sounds rough and inspecting the fork found the little cracks. Clutch plate looks brand new? So Ive ordered new kit and will re install as soon as I manage to get the fly wheel off (see other post) so that I can replace the rear seal. By the way the clutch pack is Veloe?? some thing like that. Thanks again to all.
Mal
YarnMaster
Valeo - pretty well known in europe
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks