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Thread: how hard is it really to replace the cylinder head gasket?

  1. #1
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    how hard is it really to replace the cylinder head gasket?

    ive got a 300Tdi defender,

    ive had a look at the manual and its four pages of instructions to take things on and off in a certain sequence and only turning certain bolts like 60 degrees at a time,

    ive just spent the last two days working on what i thought was the problem with my defender only to find that once i turned the defender over i can hear this whooshing noise from the back of the engine and have found that part of the head gasket is gone and i have oil and air squirting out under pressure every time the engine cycles


    anyone done it? would you do it yourself again or would you get a mechanic to do it? if so can anyone suggest a decent one in the brisbane metro area?

  2. #2
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    IMHO the 300 is a very easy engine to spanner on.

    Everything just unbolts!
    The head is quite a lift for one person, but doable, i used a gantry and chain hoist.
    Once the head is off take it to a machine shop for inspection/ light skimming etc.

    If it is really done for then it may pay to get the new head built up by a pro?

    One tip when refitting - remember to put the air cleaner bracket back in under the DS rear outer head bolts!!!!

    If you have the gear and space just go for it!!!

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  3. #3
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    They are technically quite easy to do.

    Really a matter of unbolting and then reassembling in the correct order to the correct torque values.

    As mentioned, if you take the head off get it inspected by a head specialist. You aren't supposed to get 300Tdi heads skimmed, but plenty do with good success.

  4. #4
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    im pretty sure its just the gasket thats fubar, ive got pics of the area im talking about but unfortunately camera isnt with me just yet,

    doing the torque values is pretty easy it just mentions in the manual you need to get a rachet from land rover with degrees on it and only to tighten each bolt like 60 degrees at a ...thisneccessary?.... i understand to tighten each bolt up a lil at a time equally but you need to be that detailed?

  5. #5
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    my only advice would be to follow the CORRECT advice very seriously indeed!

    dont rush into it,,
    wait for one of our experts to post the sequence here,,,
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard View Post
    doing the torque values is pretty easy it just mentions in the manual you need to get a rachet from land rover with degrees on it and only to tighten each bolt like 60 degrees at a ...thisneccessary?.... i understand to tighten each bolt up a lil at a time equally but you need to be that detailed?
    You need to follow the torquing sequence and technique accurately.

    The bolt tensions are set by an initial Nm tension, then by degrees. This technique is a lot more accurate than merely tensioning to a Nm meaurement as it removes inaccuracy caused by sticking threads, etc.

  7. #7
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    might see how much it will cost to get it done at a mechanic

  8. #8
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    Hi Richard ;

    this is an extract from RAVE CD 1.Disregard the Bit about the Valve and spring refit on the LHS , assuming you will be taking your heads to a head servicer to get it serviced, It's worthwhile to do it anyway. while you have the heads off. but only if you feel it's necessary.









  9. #9
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    yeah this is what ive referred to, i found the manual on the net, think its best if i just find some mechanics and get some quotes to do the job

  10. #10
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    my defer is booked in on the 18th for a possible headgasket

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