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Thread: 07 Puma Engine Rattle

  1. #11
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    I had ice on my bonnet a few days back - started it with outside temp at 3 degrees - no problem. Warmed up the engine for 5 minutes before driving, and took it easy until temp came up.
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scallops View Post
    I had ice on my bonnet a few days back - started it with outside temp at 3 degrees - no problem. Warmed up the engine for 5 minutes before driving, and took it easy until temp came up.
    well aren't you lucky.....That you have such a bomb proof car!
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  3. #13
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    Hey DB,

    What's the fequency of these issues in the UK or mainland Europe? Bear in mind it is a lot colder there for a lot longer, would you expect there to be far more cases of this? Is this the case, or does Aus suffer more cases?

    Rgds
    Pete

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    Hey DB,

    What's the fequency of these issues in the UK or mainland Europe? Bear in mind it is a lot colder there for a lot longer, would you expect there to be far more cases of this? Is this the case, or does Aus suffer more cases?

    Rgds
    Pete
    Pete I'am hearing of cases in the UK but not a lot as of yet same here though there wasn't any case's other than myself up until about a week and a half ago (maybe apart from solmanic but at the time we weren't sure we had the same thing)..And I have had the problem for over a year!

    Thats one thing I said to Ian that I would of expected to see more in the UK.....because of the temperature.

    Who knows there could be variables....Fuel/antifreeze...temprature during the day probably being double what it is in the uk before tumbling at night.
    Could even be down to mechanical sympathy some people may have it but may not know

    There could potentially be so many reason's why not....The same as Why was the PUMA released over there for a year and then have so many problems when it comes here? why did it taken them a year to find the water in the fuel and why a number of cases here and a few mentioned in the uk when they get more avaerage rainfall over a period of time.

    I can't answer that question but I have people working on it..As talking to a guy in the Uk, Landrover UK appear to be well aware of the problem! So there must of been a fair few cases for them to be bothered about it. Might just be the case that we haven't heard of many.

    I'm going to talk to the dealer and find out if they have heard anything..
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  5. #15
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    Well here is a quick summary of my engine rattle:

    - Rattle same as DB's and others' descriptions.
    - Occurs within 1-2km (5 min) from starting, worse in cold weather.
    - Started happening within three weeks of taking delivery of the car (Jan 2008).
    - For first six months the rattle occurred increasing in frequency to about one in every three mornings.
    - At six months it started getting quite bad culminating in an engine warning light coming on (June 2008).
    - Reported to dealer, fuel pressure valve & fuel common rail changed.
    - Over the next two months (colder weather) the rattle persisted, same frequency, sometimes quite badly but not enough to trigger any warning lights.
    - Following first service the rattle was less frequent, but still occurred perhaps once a fortnight.
    - Notified LR customer service so it was on record as having been reported more than once and not resolved (Oct 2008).
    - Following a long trip in September 2008 I drained a LOT of water out of the filter/separator and informed the dealer.
    - Second service Feb 2009 - dealer informed me that they had found a fault code logged that probably related to the rattle - replaced the EGR March 2009.

    The rattle is much less frequent, but has occurred at least three times since the EGR was replaced in March. Warmer weather and now different morning routine means it is hard to say whether the rattle is as bad as before.

    The vehicle is kept in a car port, and was prior to moving, so the general environment hasn't changed, just the morning driving routine. Like DB, my dealer had the car for three days last July and was not able to replicate the problem, even though it was occurring much more often. I also suspect they had the vehicle stored inside or were not starting it when it was cold enough to cause the rattle.

    My dilemma now is this, the rattle is not happening often enough for me to be confident that the dealer could ever replicate it in the workshop. Also, if I could be sure that it wasn't going to cause any long term damage to the engine, I could live with it.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by dullbird View Post
    well aren't you lucky.....That you have such a bomb proof car!
    Maybe - but I was not trying to be smug - just letting you know my situation in regard to this issue in an attempt to help. Perhaps warming the vehicle up for at least 5 minutes before driving off prevents this problem.
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scallops View Post
    Maybe - but I was not trying to be smug - just letting you know my situation in regard to this issue in an attempt to help. Perhaps warming the vehicle up for at least 5 minutes before driving off prevents this problem.
    BTW that's not necessarily a good idea. You have a look in your manual and I'd be surprised if it doesn't advise you start and then drive off gently immediately. Idling for that long wastes fuel and can cause other problems. I'm sure I've heard of bore glazing and oil contamination before - help?
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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scallops View Post
    Maybe - but I was not trying to be smug - just letting you know my situation in regard to this issue in an attempt to help.
    Perhaps warming the vehicle up for at least 5 minutes before driving off prevents this problem.

    makes no difference!......

    He has tried that in the past.
    And I have personally waited in the car for it to warm up a bit (not that 5mins gets much heat into the engine at tick over) and driven very slowly to see if I can avoid it...but no it still did it to me, I did it to see if it was the way Ian was driving. I think you either have this issue or you don't or something a long the way helps create it. I'm not sure.
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot View Post
    BTW that's not necessarily a good idea. You have a look in your manual and I'd be surprised if it doesn't advise you start and then drive off gently immediately. Idling for that long wastes fuel and can cause other problems. I'm sure I've heard of bore glazing and oil contamination before - help?
    So what happens when you're sitting in traffic - or on a club drive waiting in a convoy line? etc etc - there are many times when the vehicle is going to have the engine running for at least 5 minutes without driving anywhere. What is the different with these situations and at startup?

    I've always started vehicles like this and I haven't had any issues - length of wait before driving off depends on how cold it is. The amount of fuel used at idle is negligible - I never get worse that 10l per 100km at any rate so it obviously isn't affecting my consumption in any noticeable way.

    But I take the message from dullbird that warming up the vehicle makes no difference in the case of this issue. I, and I'm sure I say this on behalf of everyone here, we all hope your problem is resolved to your satisfaction and quickly.
    2007 Defender 110
    2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
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    2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scallops View Post
    So what happens when you're sitting in traffic - or on a club drive waiting in a convoy line? etc etc - there are many times when the vehicle is going to have the engine running for at least 5 minutes without driving anywhere. What is the different with these situations and at startup?

    I've always started vehicles like this and I haven't had any issues - length of wait before driving off depends on how cold it is. The amount of fuel used at idle is negligible - I never get worse that 10l per 100km at any rate so it obviously isn't affecting my consumption in any noticeable way.
    My apologies for the hi-jack!

    I really don't know the full story on this. However a couple of the people on here have said that excessive idling or idling warm ups are bad for diesels as they don't use much fuel at tick over, so run cold. If the engine was hot I gather this causes a cooling, and if it's cold, I guess they run cold for longer. Apparently some of the truck operators will sack drivers if they see an idle period of more than two minutes on the tachograph for fear of glazing bores.

    From page 73 of my manual...

    "Warming-up
    DO NOT (manual uses caps for emphasis) warm-up the engine by allowing it to idle at slow speed. However remember that the diesel engine must not run above idle speed until the oil pressure light extinguishes.

    In the interests of fuel economy, it is advisable to drive the vehicle straight away, as soon as the oil pressure warning light extinguishes.

    Remember that harsh acceleration and labouring the engine before the normal operating temperature has been reached can damage the engine."


    Me, because of what it says in the manual... I just jump in the car, start it, put my seat belt on and grab my sunglasses and back out and drive off gently. By the time the time you close the garage and so on it's probably been running for 30 seconds by the time we take off. If the car is going to be idling longer than a couple of minutes I switch it off If I was about to launch into driving on soft sand from cold I might start it and idle it for a few of minutes.

    It's probably not going to ever make much difference.

    PS:I'm on the mend from the flu and i promise I'll have less time for typing again soon!
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