Swaggie
Subscriber
An accountant probably worked out they could save 5 pounds per car by not spraying it. Good thinking - notOriginally Posted by chumpion
YarnMaster
Supportermy 1 year old one has a little rust like described, I cleaned it up and applied Corrsion x (used in aircraft) on all exposed threads and then used anti chip coating on chassis, underside using a underbody gun and oil inside chassis
better than the black gung because you can see if any chips and rust forming where as with the black stuff on the old TD5 it was hiden away more
No doubt was a cost saving measure at the factory
YarnMaster
I heard the new defenders were brought to Australia on the cheap as deck cargo on a submarine...
Seriously I was walking though a car yard looking at a new cab chassis ford ute and it was greatly affected by surface rust on unplated nuts and bolts etc.
Landrovers are not the only ones going cheepo on the painting
Wizard
I was told by Bias Marine that stainless steel bolts/rivets are alloys worst enemy. A small hole today will be a big hole next year!
Allan
YarnMaster
SubscriberInteresting, can you explain this a little more? Is it some kind of electrosomethingorother?
ChatterBox
From experience and reading others comments the area of most concern regarding corrosion is in the firewall, between the spot welded seams. Very difficult to see.
Erich
RoverLord
yep its electrolysis
in the uber layman terms...
different metals have different charge properties. the further apart the difference the quicker they attack each other and one looses.
Stainless steel beats aluminum every time.
IF it wasn't for this phenomenon we wouldn't have batteries.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
RoverLord
Not quite worst - copper or brass/bronzeare worse, but stainless steel in contact with aluminium or its alloys is a recipe for disaster - and it won't be the stainless that is affected! Any marine place will tell you the same. As Dave says, it is simply that you have formed an electrolytic cell.
If you use stainless steel bolts on a Landrover, you must ensure that they are not in electrical contact with any aluminium panels, using nylon washers and sleeves which you should be able to get from any marine chandler.
In my view galvanised fasteners are superior as the galvanising prevents the steel from affecting the aluminium.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Master
Hmmm, mine came off that very same ship ...I'm heading down into the garage right now for a squizz
Master
SubscriberDon't look at the welds on the chassis.... I think you'll find the paint has cracked on all of the welds and the bare metal is showing and rusting. I was lucky that mine came straight off the ship, and was rust free, and the first day I got it home I sprayed all over underneath with Tectyl Wax before it had a chance to rust. (Unfortunatley Landrover won't fix this issue, it would be very expensive to replace the chassis.)
Also don't take a good look at the paint on the rear crossmember which I think you will find is not finished correctly and has already oxidised. In fact the paint is so thin that after about 3 years it will dissapear and the rear cross member will be covered in surface rust. This happened on my 5 year old TD5, but Landrover repainted the rear of the chassis. The paint on the PUMA chasis is exactly the same poor quallity. If yours is showing signs of oxidisation ie is slightly white but goes black when you touch it, then get Land Rover to repaint it.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks