Thread: Help! How to increase the GVM for a 130 ute

The GVM of a TD5 130 is the same as a TDi 130...

TBH - Stick with the GVM that it already has! If you try to do more with it, you'll run the risk of damaging other components such as the chassis, etc... The GVM is there for a reason!

The way I see it, you've got the following options:

• Get a trailer for the extra loads.
• Get a 6x4 or a 6x6.
• Get a Unimog!

M

Thanks Camel Landy for setting me straight on the GVM for 130's. I had been told it went up to 4000kg in later models, which as it turns out is rubbish - it remains 3500kg all the way to 2009. Point taken re stressing the chassis.
I am still keen to know what mods people have done to 130 utes so they operate well at their GVM or payload limit. I just want to set this vehicle up so it operates well and with longevity under intermittent usage at its design limits. Is it worth considering chassis strengthening or again is this just messing with the LR engineering which may cause problems? Is it true the rta will upgrade gvm's on vehicles after allowing for modifications that enhance the vehicles load bearing capacity?

I recommend you speak to an engineer that is an RTA signatory. They are listed on RTA website.

It will be up to the engineer what you need to do to change the GVM.

What ever you do, and the engineer should be aware of this, if you want to tow to the maximum GTM with maximum GCM and the load is behind the rear axle you risk fracturing the chassis rails behind the spring mount.

The frequent addition of a fully loaded trailer can be the straw that fractures the already stressed rear chassis. This is because the trays on the 130 usually overhang the rear cross-member and everything is cantilevered from the rear of the spring mount. So you may need to reinforce that area of the chassis, if you want to increase the GVM and/or GCM.

This is not such a problem with other utes because most others have rear leaf springs that have the load spread over 3 points, of the front and rear spring mounts and the shock absorber mount without the cantilever effect.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

This is not such a problem with other utes because most others have rear leaf springs that have the load spread over 3 points, of the front and rear spring mounts and the shock absorber mount without the cantilever effect.

Had not thought about that!
Thanks
cheers

What about replacing the steel tipper with an aluminium one?

For the same strength you save about 1/3 of the weight, plus you could look at the tipper mechanism and see if that can be improved (lightened). Other options would be removable sides on the tipper, so if you're loading a pallet you can leave them off.

That may give you a little bit extra.