Thread: Rust Protection

i am with Wes....everyone tells me i should go hooning down the beach with my landy....why would i ? i want it to last.
Although the method should be hose down steam clean and waxoyl after beach larking...but i fear that i would get complacent and don't want to buy a new chassis just yet, more to this i suspect that my landy may have copped some abuse in the past now it's getting some love.

I don't really get the to beach that much, but when you got islands like fraser and straddy just 3hrs away they are really good spots to drive around and camp. I had a Nissan Navara ST-X i took that over to fraser no bloody way would i do that again, but a landy eats it up, its not the beach part thats awesome. Its the tracks leading off the beach that are the fun bit. Plus on the farm here the mud sticks like glue, anything that helps get it off is a good thing.

I have been mulling over this issue again as I get ready to take delivery of the new Puma. The weight of opinion is clearly with Lanolin/Waxoyl type spraying, but living near a beach I'm also concerned about the bits that can't be easily reached, and the engine parts (alternator etc).

I came across this article, and just wondered if anyone has any specific experience of this product in Australia - given the Aussie references?

Electronic Rust Protection Systems for Hummer & Land Rover from CounterAct Corrosion Protection - The CounterAct anti-corrosion system, which employs the vehicle's battery requires no sprays or co

Thanks Gav

Been discussed on this thread. Read some of the earlier posts.

Originally Posted by disco2hse

Been discussed on this thread. Read some of the earlier posts.

Yes mate, I read the earlier references...

My interest is in the experience of anyone who has any personal, practical experience of a product like CounterAct or similar ERP systems having had it installed in their vehicles for some time.

I have seen some interesting posts from commercial users. Just looking if there were any updates from those considering it or who may have fitted it some time back?

For corrosion protection inside the Defender chassis I use a product called Sikagard 554, which is a wax like product. The last lot I bought - in Jan this year was $25 for 1 litre container. It is available at smash repair suppliers or automotive paint shops. I find this excellent. To apply inside the chassis you will need a pot gun with an extendable nozzle - relative inexpensive from Supercheap - also need an air compressor. The chassis will take about 2 litres and another litre in the doors, B,C pillar etc.

This is a link to the product.
http://www.sika.com.au/cmi/pdfs/TDS_...d551552554.pdf

Defender firewalls are notorious for rusting. Below is a photo our car, which we fully re-built from the ground up. The pic shows a 2 year old, 10,000kms on the clock Defender firewall. The rust is forming between the spot welded upper panel section.



Erich

Lanolin, fishoil, tectly 506 etc on the inside of all cavities - chassis, rear crossmember, firewall, door frames, body pillars. The only way to really get it in there fully is to get a proper rust proofing gun with a long wand.
Dont put it on the outside of anything - sand will stick to it forever.

Penetrol is great for painting on surface rust prior to painting - stops the rust coming through the paint.
I prefer a good quality enamel paint on the underside exterior because sand doesnt stick to it. Landrover chassis paint is generally very thin. In any case, the real damage is done by rust forming on the inside of cavities and seams. Surface rust on the outside of a chassis is easily treated with penetrol and a spray can. Tar based products can trap moisture and hide rust until its too late. Tar on the chassis also tells a prospective buyer that the vehicle has probably done beach work.
Diesel is OK on the outside of the chassis is OK because it can be easily cleaned off with degreaser but it will eat suspension bushes.

Get fanatical with the hose after the beach. As someone else said, volume, not pressure. Most people think a quick spray underneath at the local carwash is enough. Its not. Drive through a shallow freshwater creek or river if you have the opportunity

Well I have a three part approach.

1. Mist lanotec through all cavities (chassis, doors) yearly.
2. Spend probably 5 hours washing after a beach trip. I usually spend about 3 hours on chassis and washing the exterior. I spend a couple of hours the following weekend doing the chassis again and hosing the sand out of the inside.
3. Fitted an ERP. I have a couplertec.

Our car is an 05 model and has been to Fraser many times (usually twice a year).

So far, so good. (TOUCH WOOD). There are no signs of corrosion. Even the bolts for the doors are still shiny.

I think the ERPS I use probably works. I have heard many stories of people disconnecting them and having corrosion suddenly start appearing everywhere.

The problem is, unless you have two vehicles used side by side it's always hard to know...