Thread: Big Red...

Originally Posted by mike_ie

I literally did a double take when I saw the price.... I'm sure that they are no doubt good, but $2300 good????

its all relative ,,,,,, i put ohlins on a bmw adv 1150 m/sickle after a trip to the cape,, cost ---$2300 for the pair......worth every cent!!!

Originally Posted by The ho har's

Well when you think about it "the track" would have to be one of the roughest roads in Aus...so the cost would surely out way any suspension and other damage you would incur without the Big Red's

Mrs hh

Don't get me wrong - I'm not doubting their effectiveness at all, and I'm sure that if I were getting the **** rattled out of me on a daily basis then I'd consider buying a set too. It's more the "OOOOOOH, THEY LOOK NICE" followed immediately by the "holy crap" when I see the price

Hello,

I finally received my 4 KONI RAIDS today through Ultrarev (USA) after waiting for about two and a half months (after paying for them in mid November). It took a long time to have them built in Holand but it was worth waiting. The link to the post were I asked my questions before buying them is here: Size of Koni & Bilstein Shocks vs genuine LR ones
I was basically convinced by the very positive comments about the RAIDS made by dmdigital and positive comments herd elsewhere about KONI quality in general.

I will not add pictures as they look exactly the same as the pics posted by dmdigital below.

I promise I will post some comments after I install them and give them a try on a VERY corrugated road I have close to my house in Mendoza, Argentina but first I need to get back to Argentina (I am in the US) and second I need to understand how to adjust my RAIDS to the medium setting:

I was very surprised to find that my RAIDS, although superbly built, only come with some VERY crappy instructions regarding how to adjust them. There is no manual included , just a small piece of paper with confusing figures, no words explaining anything AT ALL. It is very anoying. Having spent 1,000U$ on 4 shocks and receiving no decent instructions on how to adjust them....anyways.

I am planning on adjusting the RAIDS on "medium", not hard nor soft but I would appreciate any advice on what setting is best. I understand they have 3 positions to adjust them but even that is not clear from the box or the "paper with instructions".

Bottomline:
My questions are:
a) can anybody confirm if the RAIDS have 3 different settings to choose from?
b) does anybody know if they normally come from factory come in the middle position (this is my guess, it would make sense)?
c) can anyone who has gone through the process explain in a few words how to do the adjustment in case they do not come in the middle setting?


I will try to take a picture of the little "paper with instructions" to see if somebody lese understands it better than I do.

Thanks,
Cheers,
Santiago

PS: By the way, Ultrarev worked great, I recommend them. They are located in New Jersey, US.

Here is the "Instructions Manual" showing how to adjust the shocks:












Any help will be good since I have no clue how to start the adjustment.

Did a little more investigation and found this on KONI's web page: Koni: Adjustment

It is much more instructive than what I received in paper.
Myy question now is: anybody knows if the adjsytent for the RAIDS (wich are Series 90 shocks) is the same as for the 80 series?


Thanks
Stgo

Sorry all

I recall reading somewhere (thought it was this thread) that if doing the front springs on a 110 (mine 2001 110 TD5) it was an idea to use the Disco rubberised “ ring”. This helped reduce the noise transfer.

Can anyone tell me if my memory is failing, if not the part number.

I’ve currently got the Koni, King Springs and new shock towers ready to go and this is the final item if memory serves me correctly.

Thanks and sorry if this is in the wrong post.

Scott

I have not installed them yet, but I did buy some rubberized spring isolators, part number ANR2938 at $18.95 each from Karcraft for this very purpose.

Before you install the Koni's any chance you could measure the open and closed length. I am curious if they give you the extra 40mm travel that is claimed.

MTB

I'll try and measure when I get home. You need front and back?