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Thread: Help buying a 110 defender Tdi

  1. #11
    Didge Guest
    Welcome NPT, Being in Brisbane and buying locally I'd expect RUST, RUST, RUST (it'll have probably been to Fraser a few times) in the bottom of all doors, the floor wells, especially the front passenger under the aircondititoning and check rear cross member and whole chassis for welded plates suggesting repairs . Pull the front mats right out (completely out) and look at the front area of the footwells and base of A pillars. Do not simply lift mats and assume all is clean. Check for general corrosion in aluminium panels. Also, check for rear axle and hub wear on the splines and the ball joint on top of the rear diff (often a cause of backlash when you release the clutch) - both simple and cheap enough to repair. Happy hunting
    ps you'll become addicted to this joint and don't forget to wave when you get ya deafener
    beers Gerald
    Last edited by Didge; 28th February 2010 at 11:03 AM. Reason: ypo

  2. #12
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by cewilson View Post
    Mine doesn't
    Mine does't either, it's feb 1994, or registered then from new.

  3. #13
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    I've had both.
    The 200Tdi gad less turbo lag and a bit more low down grunt, plus better engine braking downhill (marginally). Pretty poor on the highway - revving quite high @ 100 kms.

    The 300Tdi - smoother - better top end. And I prefer the gearbox that comes with them.

    Plus if you ever want to put an auto in them you'll need a 300Tdi. (just a thought fo rthe future).

    Cheers
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


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