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Thread: wading plug or no plug

  1. #1
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    wading plug or no plug

    with all the current floods happning at the moment, wev had to drive thru sum pretty deep (clean fresh) water, and iv taken my wading plug out a few months ago,

    if its out and im still moving making a bow wave would much water get into the housing, iv just fitted a new clutch and really dont want to be pulling it out any time soon,

    and as soon as you exit the water if there is eny it will drain out straight away?? but with a plug in its going to stay in there till you pullover (most likely inthe wet and rain) to drain the water out???

    so unless im stoping in the water, its it ok to leave it out

  2. #2
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    Maybe better solution for you is what I have done to solve this possible problem on my 300Tdi defender. ie Instal clear breather hoses. (Wonder when we will get a flood in Murray River area to give it a "road test"?)
    Bought two brass`fittings - one each for clutch and timing housings. Both 1/4 inch BSP male thread one end and male the other end to take 1/4 inch internal diameter hose over it. Right angle between them. Probably need place with good collection of fittings to find these.

    Screw fittings into housings. Hose outlet facing to right side of vehicle on timing housing and about 45 degrees forward on clutch housing. Then push clear plastic hose over each. No clamp necessary on hose I used. Other ends can be located wherever you see fit above anticipated high water level, eg under top og right guard and facing down so dirt and water cannot fall into them, eg like Defender gearbox,etc breathers.

    With clear plastic hoses, until they get old and deteriorated, you can wipe dirt and oil off the outside to check there is nothing inside. Much easier than removing plugs, which could possibly cause problems if left in due to buildup of pressure or vacuum in housings.

    Straight brass fittings could be used, but with hose initially pointing straight down, most likely on a Land Rover it would soon be ripped off.

  3. #3
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    Mox is on the money, we use to do something similer during the wet season , just take the breathers of when the rivers stop crossing the roads
    '99 Tdi 300 130 Twin Cab
    When I'm here I want to be out there.

  4. #4
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    You are usually OK if you can resist the temptation of using the clutch. Keep it solid.

    Regards,
    PeterW

  5. #5
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    does any one foresee a problem if I take mox's idea but use copper tubing to make it more solid / permanent

    p.s thanks for the ideas and advice

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by woody View Post
    does any one foresee a problem if I take mox's idea but use copper tubing to make it more solid / permanent

    p.s thanks for the ideas and advice
    If you are going from drivetrain to body (as in the tub from the clutch / bell housing is fixed at the other end to the body) then you may get cracks from the vibrations.

    I think plastic is the way to go for this reason - flexible.
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  7. #7
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    I have been thinking of replacing plastic fuel line with copper. Should be slightly more`damage and small fire`proof. Would need bends /coils to allow flexibility in places - mainly between engine which can vibrate on its mounts and the chassis.

    Reckon push on clear plastic hose is probably best for timing and clutch housing breathers though. Easy to pull off or move for cleaning and if oil leaking into housings, can be seen inside hose and not confused with that from any external leaks.

    Remember the main purpose of these hoses is to just allow air to move`in and out of the housings to maintain atmospheric pressure inside without letting water in when driving through it. Does not need to be as durable as hose carrying liquid, or air under pressure or vacuum.

    These breather hoses may possibly be regarded most of the time as unnecessary things that are sometimes a nuisance and can be left off, but with metal fittings for them permanently in place, can be quickly put on without tools when deep fording is required.

  8. #8
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    Isn't the hole on the bellhousing to let oil out
    In fact aren't both wading plug holes to let oil out should a seal weep ?

    I think you could plug or put a breather pipe on the timing case without too many problems but you would have to regularly check a breather fitted to the bellhousing to make sure the oil level wasn't building up in there.

    Unless of course you don't have any oil leaks........


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  9. #9
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    How does water actually get in? The bell housing is pretty water tight around both faces, at the engine and gearbox end. The starter and clutch slave are the only 2 other areas to let air out and water in. So in theory, there should be a large pocket of trapped air, stopping the water getting in. Unless you are stopped in the water for a considerable time, I can't see a problem.

    The normal wading depth isn't so great to pressurise this air to force it out, so IMHO, it doesn't really matter.

    In Defenders from 1999 onwards it is not possible to seal the bell housing as there is a slot - be it an oil drain or a screwdriver slot, which cannot be blocked.

    Erich

  10. #10
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    If timing and clutch housings, gearboxes, diffs etc are hot when they go underwater, the air inside them them that was also hot will rapidly cool down and contract. Result if breathers`are underwater is they suck in significant amounts of water.

    It seems this is a significant problem with the standard setup on Series Land Rover gearboxes and diffs`. Some owners have apparently overcome it by making up breathers similar to those on Defenders.

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