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Thread: Water injection

  1. #41
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    Not really sure but seat of the pants I would say 15-20 hp would be conservative. Flat cruise for my rig is 5-7 psi @ 100 km on the GPS. I just got back from a weekend in quite hilly country keeping up with a mate's v8 cruiser I used 17l in 470 km. Drive to the speed limit general usage is about 25 lt per 1000 ks. One of the benefits with the variable controller is I can set the start and full injection volumes so I can tune the system how I want it, or turn the system off, inject with 1 nozzle or with both. Limit the total quantity or have it come in hard. With the turbo mods I will be deleting pre turbo and just injecting pre inlet manifold. The only reason I am currently injecting pre turbo is to alter the compressor map.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by two up View Post
    Dougal my system is controlled by a progressive controller and solenoid's, I am only injecting in high demand situations. For injection to start I need to be making 12lb of boost, and it reaches full injection flow at 20lb. Generally the only time this occurs is on steep hills. I carry 28 litres of fluid, driven sensibly this gives me a range of about 1000kms. On flat roads I could drive for hours without using a drop but I do take your other point,
    If a nozzle clogs up yes I could damage a turbo, but as my system is controlled by pressure if this occurs the solenoid's will automatically cut flow to the nozzles.


    From my current setup, yes I am producing more power than I could on diesel alone. To upgrade the fuel pump I am looking at a minimum of $2800 ,new turbo $1500 fitting/ dyno tuning $6-700
    That will buy me enough methanol to keep me going the next 10-15 yrs.
    urmmm

    whats your maximum boost?
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


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  3. #43
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    16lb without wm injection and about 19.5lb with wm.

  4. #44
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    have you done anything to change the wastegate actuation or played with the compensator/fuel settings on the pump yet?

    (Im running the assumption you've got a tdi(x)00)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #45
    Tombie Guest
    Two up.. What vehicle is this on? And what engine?

  6. #46
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  7. #47
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    Its the one mentioned at the beginning of the /\ post. I am using it as a test bed in preparation for the move to the 130 ( it is a TDi 300 ). From all the reading I have done and the advice I have got from my engineer friend the results I am getting should be easily replicated on the 130 but I will be using smaller nozzles and a larger tank for much greater range. The current vehicle has done close to 80k now without a single hiccup. I am hoping for around 100kw with the new vehicle to allow me to carry the weight and maintain a decent cruise speed on the highway.

  8. #48
    Tombie Guest
    Is the 4.2 inter cooled?

    What type?

    Guys here (2) have GU 4.2s making some serious power using std pump turned up nicely, big Intercoolers and 3" exhausts.

    These things are making serious power on factory turbos!

    The 3rd one - just out of town runs a custom turbo and its a serious machine!

    A Defender can make nice power with a good exhaust, big cooler and a safe wind up of the fuelling. And controlled safe EGTs.

    Matched boost and fuel keeps EGT under control.

    Adding water is just a hassle not worth the bother..

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Is the 4.2 inter cooled?

    What type?

    Guys here (2) have GU 4.2s making some serious power using std pump turned up nicely, big Intercoolers and 3" exhausts.

    These things are making serious power on factory turbos!

    The 3rd one - just out of town runs a custom turbo and its a serious machine!

    A Defender can make nice power with a good exhaust, big cooler and a safe wind up of the fuelling. And controlled safe EGTs.

    Matched boost and fuel keeps EGT under control.

    Adding water is just a hassle not worth the bother..
    Gu patrols have a 11mm fuel pump and with big ic and exhausts set up properly will make 130-140 Kw, but not with the ht18 turbo, it is a piece of rubbish, most go custom td 05 16g or 18g turbos. My gq in na form made about 50 rwkw with a 10 mm pump, and with the gt2860 big ic and exhaust will make about 100 Kw. Some of the more extreme td42t with big fuel pumps are making 220+ Kw. I am using the wm to add a bit more power for highway travel. In the bush I rarely see more than about 10 psi. I believe it has proven itself to be a worthwhile addition and has many benefits when used properly.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by two up View Post
    Its the one mentioned at the beginning of the /\ post. I am using it as a test bed in preparation for the move to the 130 ( it is a TDi 300 ). From all the reading I have done and the advice I have got from my engineer friend the results I am getting should be easily replicated on the 130 but I will be using smaller nozzles and a larger tank for much greater range. The current vehicle has done close to 80k now without a single hiccup. I am hoping for around 100kw with the new vehicle to allow me to carry the weight and maintain a decent cruise speed on the highway.
    What is the fuelling limit (cc/1000 shots) for a 200/300tdi pump?

    If you can't reach 100kw without meth, there's something badly wrong.

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