Thread: Goingbush's Electric Vehicle project

Originally Posted by bee utey

Are your motor bearings capable of handling the end load from the clutch being disengaged? What about the keyed drive adaptor? Not sure why you're using a clutch when the motor can go down to zero rpm.

Yes the motor bearings are capable of taking thrust load, the hub adaptor sits flush against a step in the motor shaft .
Im using a clutch because its easier to convert vehicle back to standard down the track.

Here is a link to Canadian Electric Vehicles who made the adaptor, about why they prefer to retain the clutch.
Canadian Electric Vehicles Ltd. - Adapters (bottom paragraph)

In practice I don't think I'll even need the clutch to change in and out of low range, I doubt it will get much use , except experimenting with different gears / efficiencies.

Im scratching my head about everything I need to do to make this kit fit, I can imagine the problems someone will have expecting it to just fit & work !!

The .2mm radial runout I discovered is caused by the incorrect flywheel bolts .

The original Landy Flywheel bolts are 7/16 UNF with a 11.5mm shoulder that fits the flywheel holes, The CEV Flywheel adaptor has 7/16 NC thread - bloody inconvenient . I can not find any NC bolts with a short shoulder . So I got a length of 12mm steel rod from Bunnings , bored a 9.4mm hole & tapped 7/16 NC , cut off short sections , loctited to bolts & machine down to 11.5mm .

Now the flywheel centralises on the new bolt shoulders & runout eliminated.

I can imagine that without these shoulders , back & forward action of on/off throttle with all that torque as well as regen braking would have the flywheel rocking on the bolts in no time .

Also trim the top of the bolt head as they were a bit close to the friction plate springs for comfort.

Just wondering ............................. where/how do you source 12v for non engine electrics ?

Deano

Originally Posted by DeanoH

Just wondering ............................. where/how do you source 12v for non engine electrics ?

Deano

Some people mount a pulley & alternator on the front Auxilliury shaft but I am using a 144 to 13.8 -50 Amp DC/DC Converter .

one of these 144V Input, 12V 50A Output, Waterproof 600W Isolated DC-DC Converter USA Stock! | eBay

this guy does not ship to Australia so I checked AliBaba & found the manufacturer who will sell for US $110 shipped .

You can run your 12V system direct from this , but the System voltage (144v) must be isolated which means you need a small battery to energise relays & precharge contactors etc . I'll probably use a small deep cycle 12v about Lawnmower battery size.

AS well as the 12v lights, wipers . horn etc I'll be running a 12v vacuum pump for the brakes & 12v blower to supply cool filtered air to keep the motor from getting dust / moisture etc . And a 12v heater element to satisfy ADR demister requirement. I think 50Amps should be heaps but I might install a 2nd converter for redundancy.

Pulled seatbox out for better access to Remove Fuel tanks and fuel lines . Im making battery boxes to go in their place, I thought 10 cells in each box but it works out to 12 in each box . leaving 21 to go under bonnet.

One thing I'm not going to miss is filling these Tanks , series One style , Did I mention I hate the smell of petrol !



I should really pull the gearbox out and put a seal set through it , its never going to get easier than this and it does leak - a lot !

Originally Posted by goingbush

Absolutely !! Its like banging your head against a bloody brick wall . Trying to deal with the sole Australian agent for HPEVS AC motors is almost impossible , its a common complaint of Australian EV forum , almost to the extent that I was about to become an Eastern States agent for HPEVS just so that I could get a motor.

And as for the batteries..... I can get them for almost 1/3 the price than advertised on the DIY EV price guides, the industry in Australia needs a good kick up the arse.

and thanks for reminding me, I do need to update the website.

Interesting project, thanks for taking the time to write about it.
Could you perhaps share where you are finding batteries at almost 1/3 price?

Originally Posted by Milton477

Interesting project, thanks for taking the time to write about it.
Could you perhaps share where you are finding batteries at almost 1/3 price?

Maybe the Advertised prices I was referring too were way high as that price guide is out of date and thus over inflated in comparison to current prices . So until I have actually secured the batteries lets call that a bit of ****ing in the wind on my part.

Originally Posted by goingbush

I should really pull the gearbox out and put a seal set through it , its never going to get easier than this and it does leak - a lot !

At the risk of asking a dumb question , why not (theoretically) remove the gearbox and clutch assembly and fit the motor directly to the transfer case ? as this could then free the whole engine bay for batterys as well as significant weight saving. Maybe run an alternator or vacuum pump from the PTO output ? Is the DC torque going to be an issue with the 'old' transfer case ?

Deano :}