The Ultimate FC

[101 Ron]

The boiling vessel is new and exactly the correct one for the stalwart.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/73.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/74.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/75.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/76.jpg

[101 Ron]

I find the Boiling Vessel or BV is a interesting bit of kit.
You can boil water for a cuppa,cook food inside a can, or out of the can.
You can even fry food in it.
It will hold food hot for hours without beening turned on and gives off a low thermal signature.
Being able to boil water means if the water supply is a bit crook you have a chance to kill some of the bugs.
It is becoming standard fitment to most Nato vehicles now, and is very important to armoured vehicles where crews could be buttoned up for long periods.
If you are trying to live on Rat packs in cold weather being able to eat hot food , clean your self, shave with warm water etc makes all the difference under conditions where you are on the move or tacial where a kitchen or fire cannot be had.
The same company is still making a improved version of them for modern armies.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Great find, but it won't leave you much room in the nook for a fridge.

Unless of course you mount one outside like the Aussie M1A1 Abrams

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/72.jpg

[101 Ron]

I got things covered.
My stalwart is a later production one and has both batteries fitted fitted on the LHS of the cabin.
This frees up the RHS under the BV and 32 litre engal fridge will fit nicely.
The story of how the Abrams got the BV is interesting.
The Abrams was shown to the poms and they said it was a piece of sh## because it didnt have a BV, which was so important to british tank crews after having them fitted for years in the Centurians.
The Americans had to ask what a BV was.
Now every Abrams has a BV.
If Australia buys Man trucks we will most likely get them fitted with BVs on the cabin floor.

[easo]

The story of how the Abrams got the BV is interesting.


There is no BV fitted to the Aussie M1A1s. Unless you count the exhaust grill, that gets pretty hot. Will bubble paint work on your car if you get close enough.

They are fitted with Aussie made 40lt Trailblazer fridges.

Regards Easo

[101 Ron]

May be the aussie digger misses out again.......but the fridge sounds OK
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47209/thread/1186372549/Boiling+vessels,+what+are+they-

http://www.militarysystems-tech.com/files/militarysystems/supplier_docs/Electrothermal-Crock-Pot.pdf


According to this the American Abrams do carry them ???
http://www.militarysystems-tech.com/files/militarysystems/supplier_docs/cooking-vessel.pdf

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/50.jpg

[101RRS]

Hey Ron,

Saw a Stalwart on TV this afternoon. The program Motor Mate on 7 Mate was about Extreme Offroad and had a short 5 minute segment on the Centurion Tank, its support vehicle the Stalwart and the Scammell recovery vehicle - some nice video and reflected well on the Stalwart.

[wagoo]

Meet up with Lotz-A- Landies and bobslandies and took them for a spin.
The thing climbs OK off road, but is slow and noisey on road......still learning with this thing.
Ron

Are the engine transmission units hard bolted to the hull sans rubber isolation? I assume the wheel drive bevel boxes are also hard bolted.
I remember hiring a US military M151 Ford Jeep and driver to tour a mountainous region of Vietnam.They had their differentials etc hard bolted to the body/frame (independant susp), the noise and vibration was horrific, so after about 10km I'd had enough and got the driver to take us back to the village where we transferred to a much more civilised leaf sprung Russian UAZ 469 Jeep instead.
Bill.

[101 Ron]

Everything appears to be hard bolted.
The noise is from the bevel boxes and the fan roar.
I will expect the fan roar to be reduced when the floor plates are refitted at a much later stage.
The motor its self is very quiet and smooth.
Low gearing for on road use.....ie 3750 rpm = 40mph with the fans going full tilt is the problem.
The thing is gutless to drive on road, but every time I play with the motor I am getting more and more go out of it.( most likely I will get much more too)
Its off road speed appears good as does the gearing for off road work.
It is not a vehicle for long distance driving down the highway.
I suspect drive disconnects would lift on road performance too.( And improve steering feel)
The problem I see with this vehicle in the long term is not its mantainace, but getting it from one place to another over long distances.
The answer is a truck large enough to carry it or a extra higher gear ratio for the Stalwart.
Either answer is really beyond my means.
I still do not have much experience with the vehicle and while it is easy to drive in its basics, it is different in many ways.
Little things like steering.
Off road , if the front wheels lift and then settle while going around a corner, the steering is like if the Two steer wheel sets are turning on different arcs and on road with the detroit means small steering corrections with power on and off.......remembering the detroit is working on Three wheels per side.( steering valving is in the early days of twin steer power steering and the valve unit is operated via little differential in the steering shaft and tends to be like a little on and off affair)
The gear shift is long throw and the heavy fly wheel makes for slow gear changes.
The motor is very soft with a very wide spread of power, but needs to be driven hard with revs to get the best out of it and operation for too long at low revs fowls the platium non self cleaning plugs.(the motor being governed and appears designed so you can drive it flat out all day without hurting it)
From what I have seen of ferrets/saracen ect with a preselecter box which are driven hard anyway the stalwart needs a bit more adtension to the ways to get the best from the vehicle as a whole.
It all the years I have been around miltiary vehicles I have never seen a ferret or a Saracen driven in real hard off road conditions and suppect it is either the mind set of the type of people who own them or a lack of ability of the vehicles.
The stalwart appears at this point to have a excellent off road ability.........on road not so good.
Another thing to note , while the Rolls is only 220 hp on paper, compared to a 220hp truck diesel, it delivers that power over a far greater rev range and is why it pays to stick it into the motor a lot.

[101 Ron]

just another quick report.
I have been busy with work and just trying to keep my head above water money wise, so not much has been done.
The very wet weather on the east coast has been working against me too.
I must work on the Stalwart out side , but I can not leave it out in the rain as the hull will fill up with water.
To tarp and untarp the thing by my self takes too much time after work.
I have just been chipping away in the cabin paintng etc.
I have been doing little things during the wet weather in doors.
16 litres of paint now used, but it is now costing over a 100 dollars a 4 litre tin.
The batteries needed replacing and with the smallest batteries I could fit to do the job, another 350 dollars gone.

[101 Ron]

The cabin hand bilge pump pick up strainer is located at the very rear of the hull so its is at the lowest level with the truck floating loaded.
The problem is the stalwart with crane floats nose down unloaded.
I have removed the handpump strainer from the rear of the hull.
The plan is to fit the hand bilge pump pick up at the front between the front bevel box parking brake drums.
I am thinking of using another electric bilge pump there and pump though the standard hand bilge pump.
I have priced modern plastic 24 volt bilge pumps and the cost is the same as getting another good quaility stalwart pump from the UK.
I have to save my pennies.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/677.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/678.jpg
This must be done before I replace the various cabin plates behind the driver.

[101 Ron]

It must be remembered there is another electric bildge pump located at the very rear of the hull as a standard fitting , so a loaded condition can still be catered for.
sand blasting and then painting the plates that hold the rifles and some tools in the cabin behind the driver.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/674.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/675.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/676.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/673.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/671.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/670.jpg

[101 Ron]

The crank handle has been sorted by using the parts from a ferret crankhandle.
The crankhandle shaft is now stainless steel as it was the only thing i could find size wise to the correct diameter.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/669.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/668.jpg

[101 Ron]

Hand cranking the B81 Rolls is very very hard.
The motor its self is very easy starting as it is a lazy motor of low compression and you only have to look at it and it starts.( not even any choke is used)
To handcrank it is a slightly different story as the drag of three C section vee belts to the altenator and then 2 more C section belts for the cooling fans and then a wide toothed belt with tensioner for the waterpump makes for alot of muscle effort and to spin the motor over by hand is not very likely at any sort of speed.
A aircompressor and power steering drive add drag too.

[101 Ron]

Being a boat so to speak the crank handle hole must sealed with this.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/667.jpg
One end of the crank handle has a hex to fit the brass plug.

[101 Ron]

Oil dag has been added to the central lube and tranfercase for the tracta joints (very expensive stuff, but it mostly solves wear issuses with the tracta joints)
The front RHS bevel box/tracta joint oil leak is getting worse so a wheel station will have to come off soon( all heavy work )
New C section vee belts fitted to the huge cooling fans.
The original direction indicator switch on the dashboard has been replaced with a simple toggle switch as the standard item worked on a timer arrangement and was not running long enough before it had to be reset and generally a pain to use in modern traffic.
Switch gear on the MK2 stalwart is not of the same quality as other English FV vehicles and must be a throw back to its commerical origins.

[101 Ron]

French sales propagander with some very interesting photos




http://www.trucksplanet.com/photo/alvis/stalwart/stalwart_k1.pdf

[wagoo]

Ron, have you met the Stolly owner from Geelong who fitted higher gearing to the transfercase (60mph) axle disconnects and LPG?
Just noticed said vehicle mentioned on a historic MV forum.
Bill.

[101 Ron]

There are previous posts on this thread about a Stalwart going to Corowa.
I was going to go and have a look but my house was broken into the day before I was going to leave, so I stayed put to sort things out.
A spy of mine did take some pics of the internals for me.

I have spoken to the owner afew times over the phone.
LPG is easy except for the gas tanks and the disconnects are straight forward to do........access is a problem.
Regearing on that 60 mph stalwart cost over 10 K and the lowest gear according to my caluations would limit off road work and may be climbing out of the drink and up a steep river bank.
The gearing was raised by 40 percent and that 60mph is done at comfortable engine RPMs
My idea is dog clutches on either side of the transfercase
with one side standard or slightly lower ratios and high ratios gears on the other side.
The problem is if it can be done this way and retain enough strenght in the transfercase and the cost too.

That high speed stalwart is a lighter MK 1 which is almost 2 tonnes lighter than mine.
One over seas stalwart owner pointed out the cost of a regearing conversion with its problems would be money better spent on a truck to carry the thing around with less wear and tear to the stalwarts drive system.

[101 Ron]

The 60 mph stalwart (in fact it is slightly faster)has shown me two things.
Drive on the centre wheels only is no problem with the disconnects and the bevel boxes are out of the equasion driving though the centre wheels.
That stalwart I heard had a drive shaft come loose on the way home due to the way most people do the disconnects, and to do it properly the shafts must be supported with a extra bearing and not the original cupplings converted into a sliding dog still supporting a very heavy shaft.
The higher rotational speeds would not have helped
The owner told me the higher speeds would not have been possible
with out the reduction in drag the disconnects gave
I have noted the LPG system he had fitted was not ideal and more power is possible .

[wagoo]

Yes my main concern with raising the gearing was the reduced tractive effort offroad with only around 65:1 low gear. Maybe ok for a vehicle that just travels to shows.
Do you know what the hub reduction ratio is? Could you use the trick that Foden used with their hubs that could be changed from direct drive to 2:1 by changing their halfshafts? A little more complicated with steering stubshafts on the Stolly I guess, but you'd only need to do 2.
Bill.

[101 Ron]

Hub reduction ratio is the same though the Alvis series of FV 600 vehicles , the ratio beening 4.125.
The hubs are double epicyclic and the gears are timed to one another and at the factory gears were machined as sets and cannot be swapped around in any form, or the hub, wheel bearings and outer tracta are scrap metal in short order.
I beleive the problems with bevel boxes, tracta joints etc on the stalwart are from water ingress and the need to maintain seals to stop oil leaks/water ingress and the need to top up these items and a real lack of know how on how work on these machines and how to drive/ treat them
A special tool has to be fabricated just assemble the hub reduction gears.
Any ratio change must come from the gearbox or transfercase and both are specialised ,but it can be done with a different gearbox if you do not want hydraulic crane, winch or water jet drive.
The standard gearbox cannot take more than 4000rpm input speed as there are stories of the syncros spreading with rpm.
The bevel boxes must be 1 to 1 ratio due to straight though drive on centre bevel box for centre wheels.
Another trap for highway use on the stalwart is a lack of lubrication of the tracta joints at speed and constant load as the oil will squeeze away from the faces of the tracta joint forks and they start to weld themselves together.
Therefore the idea behind driving the stalwart up the gutter, side of road or over speed hump etc........to so call unwind the transmission is not that, but to get abit slack between the tracta joint forks so oil will lubricate them.
With drive disconnects , just backing off on the throttle every now and then would be enough.(most likely enough with standard set up too )
The British army came up with a fix called oil dag which is a graphite compound added to gear oil which remains on the metal surface at extreme temp and pressure.
Oil dag is mainly designed for use with hot metal dies and presses.
It should be noted that tracta joints are used in many famous 4x4 and trucks without trouble,,,ie Dodge weapons carriers and power wagons, WW2 jeeps (some production runs) ect.
One interesting story I learnt when I was ARES in RAEME was why the Australian army was a big user of Molybond products.
The Aussie Saracens were chewing though hub reductions every 50 hrs road time when they first issused..........so the story goes.
Molybond was used in the hubs the overhaul time increased to hundreds of hours

[101 Ron]

The Myth about stalwarts giving the drive train a hard time appears to have started in Germany where the Stalwarts were deployed in NATO
The stalwart was designed for Germanys rivers and steep river banks etc.
A unloaded Stalwart has a tracta joint angle of about 40 degrees and when they were driven along the autobarns unloaded, flat out and as normal transport hacks, problems occurred.
Orders were issused to drive them loaded with tank tracks etc to load down the suspension and reduce tracta angles and drive them over wooden sleepers after a set distance on hard roads.
The drivers under stood this to be to unwind the drive train.
In civie hands, lack of information and throw in age it is easy to see why the stalwart is seems to be weak in the tracta joints and bevel boxes

The suspension on the stalwart is easily lowered and the weight can be adjusted to be more on the centre wheels to help the outers to scrub out during use.

[101 Ron]

Stalwart Playing in Mud Shobdon Sept 1993 - YouTube

[chazza]

It should be noted that tracta joints are used in many famous 4x4 and trucks without trouble,,,ie Dodge weapons carriers and power wagons, WW2 jeeps (some production runs) ect.


And 80" Land-Rovers :D

Cheers Charlie

[101RRS]

I watched the movie "Children of Men" last night and it had a Stalwart in it.

Garry

[mrapocalypse]

A good thread Ron. Much appreciate all the work you put into the stally and the thread.

Ian

[101 Ron]

I took some more pics today for those who are interested in the layout of this monster.
This is the cabin map holder painted ready for refitting
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/260.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/261.jpg
This is a rust hole which the needle gun found near the front parking light.
It should Mig up OK.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/262.jpg
This is the front bevel box ends showing the band parking brakes and speedo drive(it has its own oil feed from the central lube tank).
The square thing is the front of the fuel tank and the vertical pipe is the dip stick for the winch(note floor plates have been removed)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/263.jpg
This is the spot I hope to fit the extra forword bilge pump pick up

[101 Ron]

Looking from the centre of the cabin with the floor plates out to the RHS showing the gear shift with its landrover sized tailshaft going back to the gearbox.
the gearbox gearshift sector you can see appears to run in its own oil.
The 2 small levers are for water jet PTO and the other Hydraulic PTO
Both have lock out collers.
The large flat plate in the lower middle of the pic is a water proof cover plate which is access the top of the winch drum.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/259.jpg

[101 Ron]

This is the extreme forward RHS of the hull showning the pivot for the brake pedal with its equaliser bar for the twin brake master cylinders.
The horizonal thing in the lower part of the pic with abit of chrome shaft on the RHS is the hydraulic steering cylinder........it runs the full width of the hull.
The steering columb is the vertical thing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/253.jpg


The vertical rod on the RHS coming up from the chrome shaft is the steering position indicator which is seen though a slot in the alloy floor plates.

[101 Ron]

This is the extreme LHS of the hull showing the clutch pedal pivot , steering cylinder with T shaped oil filler handle.
The green parking brake handle has a release built into the tip of the handle and it is like a rachet handle winch working a chain and cable( It takes many strokes of the handle to apply the parking brake)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/241.jpg

[101 Ron]

This is the fire wire warning and testing unit built into the top RHS of the cabin
special wire is run thoughout the vehicle and if any of it gets too hot it sounds a Horn and red light.
None of the boxes appear to be working, but the various fire wire curcults though the vehicle appear intact.
(Most wiring thoughout the vehicle is low fire hazzard aircraft grade and is poorly numbered or painted over.)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/240.jpg

[101 Ron]

This is the clearence light cancer from the inside
The biggest problem is getting the mig near enough to the job as I want to weld it from the inside and the welder is too big and heavy to fit though the roof hatch.( I dont have remote wire feed)
All the corrosion is from the inside out.
note the cabin as heater/cooling/demisting pipes thoughout.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/239.jpg

[101 Ron]

I now have the double wall of the rear of the cabin removed allowing a straight though view to the cargo/engine bay from the drivers position.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/238.jpg

[101 Ron]

CO2 extingisher bottles and BV from the drivers position with cabin side rear plates removed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/237.jpg

[101 Ron]

This another view of the area behind and just under the driver, but of the LHS bevel box (the heavy drive shaft to it is just out of view and runs beside and under the fuel tanK)
The fuel sender unit is shown and the speedo drive again with contracting parking brake band.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/234.jpg

[101 Ron]

view out of the LHS cabin entry hatch standing on LHS seat looking over in cabin swiveled spot light and reconditoned RHS roof hatch cover which is locked opened
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/233.jpg

[101 Ron]

This shows both cabin hatches locked closed.
note the flat plate on the extreme front edge of the cabin,
This gives the hatches something to lock open to, but also stops waves and water crashing over the cabin and into the air intake at the extreme rear of the cabin roof.
The double wall behind the cabin is the air intake for cabin cooling/heating, hull ventilation and engine cooling
The round plate between the hatches is for a radio aerial / amber rotary light mounting
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/231.jpg

[101 Ron]

The current storage conditions
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/230.jpg

[101 Ron]

Front RHS wheel looking to the rear.
You can just see the disc brake caliper.
This is the wheel station I will have to remove to get at the outer bevel box oil seal.
The two to one bar for the centre wheel steering can be seen in the back ground.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/229.jpg

[101 Ron]

This is the same RHS front wheel station, but now looking forward from the rear of it.
It shows the two to one bar front ball joint, the shocker bottom mounts and the torsion bar.
All the wish bones / torsion bars are oil lubricated instead of grease.
The curving hose though the picture is the oil supply pipe from the central lube tank.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/228.jpg

[101 Ron]

This is the rear RHS non steering wheel station again showing the central lube oil supply hose.( looking to the front)
Note this wheel station has a plate to stop the wheel from moving as it is non steering.

Note different and lower position of the shockers because it is non steering( allows more room in the hull.)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/226.jpg

End of this lesson

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/227.jpg

[slug_burner]

A very interesting vehicle, parts are super size. How do you go for new tyres, shockers etc.?

I'd hate to be paying the fuel bill for that pay in the mud video and you need a big recovery vehicle. Even that tracked thing struggled to pull the Stally to make a new trench or is it that a new exit ramp out of the bog hole.:D

[101 Ron]

Tyres are not too bad.( my 101 tyres were 500 dollars each)
They are 600 dollars each..........1400x20 bar treads, but they must be all of the same diameter.....ie replaced 6 at a time due to the drive system.
It is interesting the way the tyres have been fitted.
The largest diameter ones are on the front with the smallest diameter is at the rear.(all secondhand tyres need the diameter checked)
Tyre pressures is different from wheel group to wheel group too.
The four shocker per wheel is in fact two shocks and two rebound units.
I beleive they are rebuildable and most likely they are the same as a Saracen, so parts could be in Australia.
The measured OD of a non worn tyre on it is about 48 to 50 inches.
Tyre pressures are 25 to 35 psi unloaded to 30 to 40psi loaded.
The tyres are supprizingly very flexable for miltiary bar tread and provide good grip.

[101 Ron]

Todays effort
welding that rust hole near the clearence light.
Off cause it was worse that I though and had to chase it with the welder.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/207.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/208.jpg

[101 Ron]

I removed the bottom front plate to look at the winch which is a Morris brand.
The winch has alloy housings.
I was also trying to check out some some oil leaks and seals.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/204.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/205.jpg
The bottom plate
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/206.jpg

[101 Ron]

These 2 pic are of the bottom of the LHS inner tracta joint/bevel box housing showing the drain plug and the oil lube pipe so oil can be pumped from one suspension bush to the other when servicing the vehicle.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/202.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/203.jpg

[101 Ron]

This is worth watching for a few reasons.


1/The vehicle is swimming and propelling its self with the stalwarts emergency water drive and steering system........the wheels.
This is most likely a Stalwart which had its swim gear removed or deactivated.
(no water jets, pumps and water steering)

2/The stalwart is beening driven with a bit of stick.(the motor is governed so you cant hurt it)

Alvis Stalwart FV620 Swimming Action Shobdon Sept 1993 - YouTube

Ps I love the weed on the mirrors.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Ron a recent post on EMLRA after I posted a link to this thread!

Many thanks for that link :-) First thing I noticed was the UK reg on your mates one - RCD 221 G! Mine is RCD 233 G - not so far apart :-) Mine was built in 1969.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/937.jpg

Martin - much as I love my Stolly I conceed the landrover has a couple of significant advantages:

1 - A landie does a LOT more than 2.5 mpg
2 - You don't need a commander in a Landrover, you can drive solo.

Couple of points:
The circular plates on the roof are for radio aerials only - should be an ATU ring with the aerial mount above that - Stollys never carried (officially) amber warning lights whilst in service. Usual place for a "twirly is on the inside of the exhaust stack using the longest of the Landie aerial side-arms.

The "clearance lights" are actually the direction indicators!! :D

Other than this - he's done a very good job on the old girl. Congratulations to him :D

[101 Ron]

I have a plan now .
I am still working on road worthness and in the cabin.
The heater has never worked and therefore the window demist doesnt work and it should, to be fully legal.
While the cabin plates are up I have decided to replace the heater hoses.
The motor is in the back/stern and the heater is up at the front/bow.
Therefore the heater hoses are very long.
It was about a days work just to get the old items out.
I had plenty of 1/2 inch heater hose at work...... cheap as....no problem I thought.......wrong.
Inspection of the original 40 year old hose showed it not failed not though age, but by beening affected by oil.
200 dollars later and another day of stuffing around I have now fitted transmission cooler hose instead.
The route of the hose is good until it has to go down to the bottom of the hull under a bulk head and around the winch box which means it sits in the water, oil and goo which is the bottom of the hull.
Oil resistant hose is the best for the job.
I plan to run 7 core trailer wire to the rear/ motor while I am at it for future use.
I am using stainless replacement bolts and hose clamps where possible.
Some new hose support clamps in stainless still need to be made.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/719.jpg

[101 Ron]

I will be working from the front/bow to the rear/stern via the leaking RHS front inner tracta joint.
I have beening doing work on the glass place next doors forklift for nothing as he will remove the cabin glass(and refit) for me so I can treat the rust.

[101 Ron]

The winch box under the cabin is perfect for sinking the vehicle if swum.
It appears to use the same type of seal for.
1/ free spool dog clutch lever
2/cable remaining indicator
3/Oil filler hose
The OD of the seal is more than 3 inches and is of rubber which should go soft with age and pop out with use in the water.
Both bilge pumps would not be able to cope.......only buy you time to get to shore.
I have been counting other possible sources of trouble.

Leaving the 2 drain plugs out which are about 3 inches OD would be a big problem too.

The rear tail/stop lights are drained via exturnal 1/2 id tube......hose must be in good condition.

Side gate and tail gate doors and rubber seals must be in good condition.
(doors can bend in service if used to hold the load in.)

Front parking and direction indicator lights and rear tail/stop/direction indicator lights must be in good condtion, or another good leak could occur.

Access plates to drain engine oil must be sealed with silcone or gasket with all bolts fitted.

The rear hull access plate has to be sealed and all bolts fitted.( it has a crankhandle plug in it too)

Winch bottom cover plate must have all the screws in as they thread though the hull.

Window sealing is important

There is more , but I cannot think of them.

The transmission, tracta joint, hub seals must be in good nick if you dont want water in the running gear.

The central lube system hoses, the radiator drain, hydraulic oil drain ,tracta, hub drain, transfercase drain, gear box drain are all places to let water in where you dont want it.

Alot of work if swum in water.

Throw in more rust holes than I can count and this thing will not be swimming any time soon.

[101 Ron]

Bottom winch cover plate is now painted.
I dont know if to make a gasket, or just use silastic.
(silastic will make it hard to remove in the future)
I am using one of those high tec anti rust super tuff paints with the silver for the inside of the hull.
Painting in the cabin is being done by brush as the over spray and flumes would be a big problem for me as i dont have breathing gear.
I am not being to fussy about runs and how it looks for stuff you cannot see.
Preventing cancer is my main aim.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/718.jpg

That square tube type thing is for a round metal plunger which is unlocked and lifted up from the cabin to drain the winch box after departing from some deep water.

[easo]

Enjoying the thread Ron,

Easo

[101 Ron]

Is anyone up to speed on over width regulations on vehicles.
I know with a over width trailered or carried load a oversize sign must be displayed and flags placed on the widest part of the load.
Does that apply to a driven vehicle as well ?
Now I am getting to a stage of where I can drive this beast a bit, buying a oversize sign for front and rear may be wise.
When the RTA sent me the bit of paper to carry with the stalwart for its over width , nothing is mentioned but requirements.
The silly part about it you would be hard pressed to spot the over width as it is only a very small amount over.

[slug_burner]

from pg 38 of this doc

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/heavyvehicles/downloads/operating_conditions-oversize_overmass.pdf

WARNING DEVICES FOR OVERSIZE VEHICLES
Each General Class 1 Notice specifies the warning devices that oversize vehicles must
display or operate. These include:
• warning signs;
• warning flags;
• warning lights; and
• delineators.
In addition to the warning sign requirements specified in the General Class 1 Oversize
Notice, oversize vehicles longer than 25 metres must have one warning sign at the
front and one at the rear.
An oversize vehicle that, together with any load, is wider than 2.5 metres or longer
than 25 metres must display four bright red, yellow or red and yellow flags, each at
least 450mm long and 450mm wide. One flag must be at each side of both the front
and rear of the vehicle or, if there is any projecting load, at each side of both the front
and rear of the projection.


Notes:
• A tractor traveling alone does not require warning signs.
• A rigid mobile crane less than 3 metres wide does not require warning signs
or flags.
• When an agricultural implement is towed by a tractor, a warning sign is
required only at the rear of the implement if the tractor is less than 2.5
metres wide. If the tractor is wider than 2.5 metres, a warning sign is also
required at the front of the tractor.


You may be lucky and get treated like a tractor or certain cranes that don't need to display signs

another useful doc
http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/heavyvehicles/downloads/permitnotices/oversize_and_overmass_permits_frequently_asked_que stions_0711.pdf

[Lotz-A-Landies]

...
You may be lucky and get treated like a tractor or certain cranes that don't need to display signs
...Isn't the Stolly a swamp tractor?

[101 Ron]

Not too much has been going on.
After doing the heater hoses I though I would follow though while I was at it and do all the cooling system hoses.
It was a bit of work, but not too much.
All hose clamps are now stainless steel.
The copper and steel cooling system pipes are in as new condition inside reconfirming this vehicle has seen little work.
The cooling system has a large hull width radiator at the rear and Two engine driven cooling fans.
I have learnt the engine will run OK without the header tank connected or full.
The header tank is located up high under the tool box and is in area I will get to at a later date.
Curculation though the header tank is done via venturi on the bottom radiator hose and the whole system is self bleeding.
All the pipes though out have a small part number plate soldered to them, even the smallest handmade item.
The following is the view though rear with plate removed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/272.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/273.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/274.jpg

[101 Ron]

The items below the altenater are trailer brake relay valve and a check valve with stop light switch.
This area at the extreme rear of the hull has been cleaned up and repainted.
The above pics should answer Wagoo if the engine and transmission is hard bolted.
These pics below is some of the pipes cleaned up
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/268.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/269.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/270.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/271.jpg

[101 Ron]

The bilge pump lives in the area at the rear of the motor and on the RHS of the hull.
So I made a stainless steel strainer for the bilge pump I purchased from the UK and have no idea what the standard one looked like.
I now know it should have been square instead of round.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/267.jpg
I found somemore rust holes in the rear upper body work just to keep me busy later on.
Today I managed to get the bilge pump installed and working, even that was a battle with the hull welded threaded studs needing heli coiling etc.
I fitted the drain plugs and filled the hull with water, the pump worked good and this show where other leaks are.
Winch lower cover plate has been refitted .
I have to wire up and make a water level warning buzzer sensor.
It is interesting that operation of the bilge pump shows , by the time the water is high enough for it to work the toothed belt on the front of the motor would already be spraying water about the place and the pump has a air bleed
cum water jet arrangement which sprays water about the place too.
i think I will block this off, as if everything is working as the air bleed is not needed.

[101 Ron]

I am at a stand still at the front of the vehicle due to lack of money.
I need to do a shop overseas and get the other bilge pump I am going fit in the front of the hull.
Disc pads and some filters are on the list too.
I need to change the main hydraulic filter and steering filter whisle it is easy to get at with all the cabin plates out.
Bills are coming thick and fast, so this is going to be a problem.
Two safety wise important steering hydraulic hoses are being replaced in the cabin.
Ron

[101 Ron]

From a wiring diagram I have discovered there is a common power supply connection for the fire warning and bilge warning system and I suspect it has been purposely disconnected some where ?
I just have to find it.

[101 Ron]

I have priced Oversize signs from the local truck place.
For a removable tie on one about 100 dollars.
For a pemanet pop rivet on sign about 60 dollars
I think I will go with the tie on as it involves no drilling of the rear tail gate which should be air tight between its double alloy skins.

[101RRS]

Ron - all I can say is I am glad it is you doing all this work and not me.

Good stuff though.

Garry

[101 Ron]

Pump installed and hull painted inside.( the bottom of hull is full of water so I could test the pump.)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/184.jpg


The nappy plate is getting the needle gun treatment.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/185.jpg

[101 Ron]

Still not much happening on the stalwart.
I have been suffering from a bad chest infection for about a month now and the cool air of winter is knocking me around a bit.
Still no money to be spent on parts yet.
The nappy plate is now refitted and I think I will not need to access this part of the vehicle again for along time.
The standard bilge water level warning set up was a fitting bolted on the engine sump which when the water covered the plates the continunity of the water started a buzzer in the cabin.
This is missing from my stalwart and I dont like the fact if the water is very pure fresh water the buzzer may not work.
I purchased these from the internet, stainless magnetic reed float switches and they were purfect and inexpensive.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/12.jpg
One is fitted in the lower rear of the hull near the bilge pump on a stainless steel bracket and still works the cabin buzzer as standard.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/13.jpg
The other one will be fitted near the forward / bow bilge pump when I get it.
This is sand blasted rear vision mirror components.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/14.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/15.jpg

[101 Ron]

Hull access plate for petrol and engine oil drains sand blasted and painted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/9.jpg
I am still using stainless steel replacement bolts where possible.


This is the nappy plate painted
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/10.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/11.jpg

[101 Ron]

I found the engine oil level in the dry sump tank low, so I topped it up, and it took about 16 litres of oil.
To day I started the old girl up only to find engine over flowing out of the dry sump tank breather.
This tells me this thing is going to be like a old English dry sump thumper motor bike in that if you dont use it often, the oil drains from the dry sump tank into the crankcase via slightly leaking ball valve and over fill the crank case until it runs for awhile to sort its self out.
Make note to my self....check oil after running the motor if the vehicle has been parked up for a while.
The silly thing did need 8 litres of oil at the end of the day.
Running the boiling vessel which draws very high current (amps) shows the altenator on the vehicle is excellant with more than 50 amps advailible at 24 volts just off idle and much more above that revs.
The altenator is interesting as it as semi sealed from water and dust ie water and dust shouldnt worry it at all.
I have read there was a army mod so 240 volt power tools could be run from the altenator , it used a separate 240 volt regulator off the stator windings which are straight forward to access.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/7.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/8.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/6.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/4.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/5.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/2.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/3.jpg

[101 Ron]

New to You Tube.
At the end note the removal of the rear mud flaps on the white stalwart before swimming.
Note operation of water jet steering levers though roof hatch .
The Green stalwart I think would be a ex Swedish unit because of the fitting of a FOCO crane.
Sweden purchased 38 stalwarts for resupply of island gun batteries around their coast line at the height of the cold war.
The stalwarts worked well in the snow.
Alvis Stalwart at War Time In The Vale. Swimming in river Avon. - YouTube

[peewee]

the 240v power tool idear was used on a few vehicles, i remember it being on fv434s but there was an earthing issue and a few people got electric shocks so the tools were taken away and the idear dropped

[101 Ron]

I have been busy with my job and family as normal.
Also waiting on parts from O/S.
The winch self laying gear is interesting as the winch is hard up against the front of the vehicle, so a unusual set up is used.
If this vehicle was American it would use a few loose pins and rollers with a grease nipple, but being british it uses roller bearings and seals thoughout .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/187.jpg
Oil is used in alot of nipples instead of grease.
Even the eye on the end of the winch cable is threaded into the cable by hand and beauifully done
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/188.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/189.jpg

[101 Ron]

The cable is perfect except for the few strands broken where the cable is bent for storage just out of the guide rollers, it seems a pitty to shorten the cable the few feet and place another eye on it as the original hand done item is not something you see anymore.
The front tow hook had rust between the front of the vehicle and the hook.
Water could get in and it wouldnt dry out.
It was painted and refitted with silastic behind it.
The self laying gear compartment is now treated with bitumious paint.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/184.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/185.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/186.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/181.jpg
I now have stainless steel grease nipples fitted where possible on the vehicle.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/182.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/183.jpg

[101 Ron]

I dont have time to make it my self, but I am getting the local marine place to make me a cradle I need to remove the wheel stations accurately and safely.
Two steel special wedges are used to hold up the torsion bar arms while doing this too.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/179.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/180.jpg

[101 Ron]

I lubed the suspension for the first time the other day.
You are suppose to use oil in the nipples, but I will in future will be using a semi fluid grease, as it only takes one seal some where to cause the oil to be lost.
Even the shocks and rebound pivots are oil lubicated.
A small brass plugs are also removed to let air out and the oil in.

[101 Ron]

The Bloke who owns a Stalwart in Qld just like mine( but only better) has been helpful in many ways.
I asked him what a strap and bracket was for in the cabin.......first aid kit.
The next thing I know I have the correct sort of first aid box in the mail.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/178.jpg
Thanks Sean.
The good news is he is well on the way to get historic rego for his stalwart.
For my historic rego the club registra inspected the vehicle (NSW) but in Qld it has to go over the pits, and because of the vehicles unusual design he has to work in closely with the inspectors to ensure they know what they are looking at.

[101 Ron]

I still am at a lost for any british army ID on this vehicle.
The old paint is confusing too.
Some parts of the vehicle has had many coats of paint while other parts just two.
I think the side boards and tail gate have been swapped from another stalwart some time in its life.
The only common thread is the complete lack of mechanical wear and rust though outside storage.
This being a Limber version ( crane with a small compartment near the crane for Four extra crew) would not have been fitted with a cover over the load area in army storage or service.

[101 Ron]

I have been reading a interesting book called the B Series Engine in National service.
I found many mistakes with information in this book, but it does have good Stalwart photos which I will try and post later.( with copy right)
A couple of interesting things I learnt is the Rolls Royce B series was designed for 300,000 mile between rebuilds and apart of its design spec is to run at full power for One week without wear.
Each new military motor was dyno tested and signed off by a army inspector who placed the canvas paper engine life time records in the sealed tube mounted on the motor.
The Rolls Royce K60 multi fuel motor is a direct replacement for the B81 Rolls Royce Petrol motor , but is about 300 kg heavier.
The K60 multi fuel(diesel) motor could do this as its designed output speed is 3750 rpm and its size........is .the same as the petrol motor for 240 HP.

I think out of the Post WW2 combat vehicle design of the british army the B series motor was the most succesfull thing ,lasting well over forty years in service and giving little trouble.

[VK3UTE]

G'day 101 Ron. Been enjoying the thread thanks:)
The B series motors are a work of art, the B40 in my Champ has done near on 250,000 miles with the only work done on it being a valve lap. In fact the Champ took me(and mum) to hospital when I was about to be born:eek: and that was 40 years ago! Still going strong today, the original spark plugs are getting a bit tired but and she's a bit heavy on fuel by today's standards.
Not as impressive as the straight 8, what a beautiful motor.

Cheers Simon.

[101 Ron]

I have purchased another Alvis stalwart and had to wait a while for it to be freighted to australia.
It is a early MK 1.
It is extremely good condition with good paint tyres and canopy.
I already tried swimming it and have been disappointed as it very quickly sank and I have been spending a bit of time drying the thing out.
I will post a pic.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1330.jpg

:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p

[easo]

Will historic rego allow personal plates? You could have,
101RON
STOLLY
STOL-RON
RUNNY

Easo

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Will historic rego allow personal plates? You could have,
101RON
STOLLY
STOL-RON
RUNNY

EasoNo in NSW the only configuration of plate for HCRS is 5 numbers and the letter "H" in a single style of purple digits on a reflective white background.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

<image of BP stolly removed>

:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:pRon

I think you have been ripped off! :o

That one isn't 6X6, in fact I think it has lazy axles all round!

[101 Ron]

Its going to be called ......Seabold
I have found no names on the vehicle or british army rego.
The british army appear to be using number plates by the time this Stalwart was in service.
Painting army rego numbers on stalwarts seems to have stopped about 1966.
The brass ID plate in the cabin is missing.( I suspect it was removed before it left for australia, most likely with the bilge pump too.)

I have the head lights apart currently, derusting/sandblasting them.
Interestingly they use a standard civie type reflector and globe.
I have been able to fit new reflectors that take civie H4 standard 24 volt globes that should throw a better light with a higher wattage.
The water proofing is done via Two special rubber incerts around the reflector and the design of the head light shell.(all clever design again)
I this is good news as the crane work lights are exactly the same and the reflectors on them are stuffed, so it will be cheap to fix.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Thanks Ron for your advice over the phone! :) :) :) :)

[VK3UTE]

I bet this one will be better on fuel than your green one:D



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1330.jpg

:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p

[101 Ron]

New goodies purchased.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/823.jpg
This is the waterpump drive belt.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/824.jpg
Spare head gasket......B80 head gaskets are advailible in Aust, but the bigger bore B81 is a over seas shop.
Note the combustion chamber shape due the overhead inlet/side exhaust design
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/825.jpg
Cover for the hydraulic control levers for the crane.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/826.jpg

[101 Ron]

Each head light is about 3 hours of my spare time.
sand blast off multi coats of paint.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/818.jpg
Up grade from old globes to H4 haligen and new reflectors, and prime.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/819.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/820.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/821.jpg

With the lights and guards off in was a good time to needle gun the area behind the lights and paint for refitting.
About hour and a quarter to remove the paint per side.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/822.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/816.jpg'
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/817.jpg

Alot of time spent for little return

Note the suspension rubber boot hose clamps to water proof everything were cut off ( they were too rusty to undo ) and replaced by full stainless steel items.

[easo]

The H4 will be a great improvement over the NOS lights.

Easo

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1271.jpg
Fitted the non standard electric bilge pump in the front of the vehicle now.
It was not as simple as it should have been.
Mk1 one wouldnt fit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1272.jpg
So I came up with MK2
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1273.jpg
I almost put a match to the big sllly thing fitting that in here
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1274.jpg
It is a real pain to try and remove oil and soil mixed together in the bottom of the hull and alot of it is still in places I cannot reach around the sides of the fuel tank and winch box.
Aleast being mixed with oil it doesnt seem to be causing any rust issuses.
I have not found that officers pistol that has been dropped in the hull and no tools either.
The best I have done is a plastic combe.
The crane work lights has been blasted and painted just like the driving lights while I was in the mood with the H4 up grade.
Extra wiring is going in for a 12 volt power socket for fridge and a CB radio in the future.
Extra wiring is also in place for LPG/ and bevel box drive disconnect indicator lights .
It is easier to do it now that later........it is all for future use.
A 24 volt to 12 volt invertor(for the fridge) and a 24 volt 30 amp relay(for the extra electric pump) is on the shopping list.
I am working towards getting the cabin back together again and the machine driveable so I can have a bit of a drive and get the windscreen glass resealed.

[101 Ron]

Some pics from a book the B series motor in Military service written by Pat Ware
A Stalwart under brakes
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1239.jpg

[Mick_Marsh]

Some pics from a book the B series motor in Military service written by Peter Weir
A Stalwart under brakes
[IMG]http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/Scan0002.jpg[/IMG
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/Scan0002.jpg



I want one!

[101 Ron]

Having trouble with my computor tonight so it is one pic at a time.
This is from the cover of Pat Wares book.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1267.jpg

[101 Ron]

This is another recent one on You tube.
Baltic Sea with 12m/s wind speed.....I like the fish finder.
Alvis Stalwart in Baltic Sea - YouTube

[peewee]

[QUOTE=Mick_Marsh;1753348]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1239.jpg



thats not really heavy braking, only two wheels off the ground. when i used to work on stollies and carry out brake tests if we couldn`t 4 wheels off the ground it didn`t pass. never got the front tow hook to hit the ground but some people claimed to have done it. it was a strange feeling trying it in reverse. getting into 5th gear standing on the brakes and looking at the sky :)

[101 Ron]

I have only managed 4th gear in reverse and I was driving the thing by my self with little rearward vision and also ran out of room so I didnt get 5 th gear.
One of these days I might try it.( stamp on the brakes)
It is aways nice to know you can get out of trouble as fast as you got in it.
After having a vehicle with a separate forward/reverse........ lever/gearbox I wouldnt want it any other way as it is easier to use than finding reverse in a normal truck gearbox and works to great advantage in the bush manerving a vehicle though the bush and around tight tracks and corners.
When I was playing my backwards gear changes I got some funny looks from the people watching me from near by factory units......what the hell? :D:D:D

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Ron

You don't feel like bringing it up to Camden Park on the 22nd do you?

Looks like we'll have both a Saracen and Saladin present which, with your Stalwart would almost make the set! :)

There will also be a Striker, so we could call it an Alvis Owners Club! :D

Diana

[101 Ron]

I am no way ready for anything like that.
I was thinking of the next Albatross air show and work from there.
The stalwart is in bits currently.
I have a few other things to consider.
If the stalwart breaksdown, it cannot be flat towed any sort of distance.
The stalwart needs to be floated, and that form of transport is the best way to move the stalwart over distance.
The other problem I have is when ever the Stalwart hits the road, it attracts attension by other motorist and people following it around , or pulling you up and asking what it is etc.
The fact is the Stalwart is a RTA/RMS magnet..........RMS inspector......do I wave over that B double just like the other 10, I have just checked or that funny looking army truck.
The answer is the funny looking army truck wins every time.
The Stalwart needs to be 150 % spot on and my time and money is better spent working on it.
I would love to see the Saladin and Saracen to compare the differences in the vehicles and camden is on the correct side of Sydney.
At my current rate of progress I will most likely be years away from finishing this stalwart to a fully restored state.

[101 Ron]

from Pat Wares Book
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1218.jpg

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I am no way ready for anything like that.
I was thinking of the next Albatross air show and work from there. ...

... The stalwart needs to be floated, and that form of transport is the best way to move the stalwart over distance.
No worries Ron.

The invitation will be open when you're ready but different years are not always so flushed with Alvis' models.

Yes and we float the vehicles from their homes around Sydney basin. We don't consider it safe and is against AAVA rules to move armour (even Stalwarts and half-tracks) without a crew commander/observer.

Diana

[easo]

I would love to see the Saladin and Saracen to compare the differences in the vehicles and camden is on the correct side of Sydney.


If you are ever in VIC then pop by the Puckapunyal Tank Museum, they have both.

PM me before you come.

Easo

[Lotz-A-Landies]

...
I would love to see the Saladin and Saracen to compare the differences in the vehicles and camden is on the correct side of Sydney.
...If you are ever in VIC then pop by the Puckapunyal Tank Museum, they have both.

PM me before you come.

EasoRon

You are more than welcome to come up for the Day. Saturday is open day for the public but you can come up Sat or Sun and see them working, go for a ride. Not as much fun as your driving the Stolly around the back of Flinders Estate though. Camden Park, just oposite Elizabeth Macarthur Farm enter via Elizabeth Macarthur Ave, off Camden Valley Way and a couple Km past Belgenny Farm or come the back way, Menangle Rd, Woodbridge Rd, Elizabeth Macarthur Ave.

Easo

Is it true that the 4/19 Prince of Wales Light Horse only used the Saracen for one year and that was the only unit issued with them?

Alvis Saracen - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[easo]

Easo

Is it true that the 4/19 Prince of Wales Light Horse only used the Saracen for one year and that was the only unit issued with them?

Alvis Saracen - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alvis_Saracen)

I'll found out.

[101 Ron]

I am no armour nut.
Reference is from a book I know is accurate.
Australian Armour by Major-general R.N.L Hopkins cbe,(ret)
Introduced in 1955.
4th/19 PWLH used them as well as
8th/13 VMR
12/16 HRL
Saracens if I remember correctly were sold off about 1972.
Saracen was not used for very long by full time units because Australian armour was in decline in the late 1950s and the purchase of the replacement M113 just in time for Vietnam in the early 1960s .
The CMF used them extensively for training and reserve units.
Equiptment appears to have been borrowed or swapped from unit to unit as needed for training camps and exercises.
Dont belive every thing you read, exspecially on the internet.

[101 Ron]

The Qld owner of a Stalwart with crane is still chasing his rego and is having problems with red tape even though these machines have been used commerically in that state for many years.
He did have some minor problems with the power steering.
After some investigation on the crane model Stalwart we found a inoccent looking pipe Tee piece can cause problems and little information is advailible, but I think this tee piece fitting was a british army remove and check item once a year.
While the cabin is apart in my stalwart I decided to check things out.
All the hydraulic oil must be drained via out side hull drain plug
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/900.jpg
The hydraulic oil was thrown away as it was the original 40 year old stuff.
The main winch and crane strainer looked like this even after alot of the crudd had fallen off.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/901.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/902.jpg
There is a main hydraulic filter, but it is on the return .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/903.jpg
The bottom of the tank was clean.

[101 Ron]

The tee piece with strainer looks like this and on my stalwart it was 75% blocked.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/897.jpg
It goes in here and if you didnt know It is impossible to know it has a strainer in it .
Naturally the hoses to it were rotten and I had to grind off the old rusted hose clamps .
All has been replaced with new hose and stainless steel clamps.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/898.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/899.jpg
I cried as it takes 45 litres of oil to refill the hydraulics at $6 dollars per litre.
The hydraulic filter matches up with local Ryco R2141P at about $75 dollars each.
I am lucky with the stainless hose clamps as most of them are only costing me about 75 cents each from a local company who buys them in bulk.

[101 Ron]

I plan to give the crane abit of a test this weekend and will post some pics.
still plenty of work to do in the cabin and degreasing and goo removal from the inside of the hull.
I purchased a 30 amp inverter to run the 12 volt fridge and CB radio for future use...........the Poms thought the boiling vessel is important for the cold climates, but here in Aussie land I think a 12 volt fridge is the go.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/889.jpg

[101 Ron]

These pics are for Sean in QLD.
It is the crane anti slew pin.
This pin was rusted in its holder and was a 2 hours work to try to save it and the holder bracket.
The R clip is advailible from Bare and Co tractor suppliers.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/620.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/621.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/622.jpg

[101 Ron]

I gave the crane a test today.
The forkilift being lifted has a accurately known weight of 3145 kg.
It was not lifted high as the pressure hydraulic hoses are more than 40 years old.
The crane is rated to lift 2200kg the way it is shown in the pics below.
Effectively the crane was almost 1000kg over loaded.
The maximum load for the crane is 3000kg , but only with the hook moved to another position on the inner boom only.
It is nice to know if I do need to lift a load within the cranes normal ratings the old hydraulic hoses still have abit of reserve strenght in them.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/849.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/850.jpg

[101 Ron]

Note the lean the Stalwart has on it.
Very little for the weight hanging off the side of it and the fact most applications for truck cranes have a stabliser legs and the stalwart does not.
The fact the main weight of the vehicle is nice and low between the tops of the wheels.
With normal sort of working weights it leans not much at all.( remember 1000kg overload as shown)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/847.jpg
This shows how if the cargo bay is full the crane can be folded forward and the vehicle operated as normal.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/848.jpg

[101 Ron]

I changed the engine oil and filter today.
The dry sump oil tank with filter is about 25 litres.
I am still using the old fashion element type filter, but will up grade to a spin on later.
Interestingly the old oil on the dip stick looked good, but when drained out it was in poor shape and the old filter element badly gummed up.
I am still finding alot of work with small jobs taking much time low in hard to access spots near the fuel tank.
Here is another pic from another angle with the forklift on the crane.
The pressure relief valving will not allow it to lift more weight as it was just being triggered lifting this forklift.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/846.jpg
In the real world lifting a normal short wheel base Landrover into the back will not be a problem.
Maximum hook height of the crane is 6.9mtrs.
Maximum reach to the side is just over 4 mtrs and can take a 1447kg load at that reach

[Stolly]

These pics are for Sean in QLD.
It is the crane anti slew pin.
This pin was rusted in its holder and was a 2 hours work to try to save it and the holder bracket.
The R clip is advailible from Bare and Co tractor suppliers.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/620.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/621.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/622.jpg
Thanks Ron another job at some point lol

cheers

Sean:)

[101 Ron]

Its another month gone.
Not much happening Stalwart wise as I have lost interest in hanging upside down with my guts being poked with sharp edges of metal wise trying to do something inside the hull.
The floor plates are back in the cabin and the front bilge pump tested.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/357.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/358.jpg
Things are a bit quiet income wise with my job, so money is extremely tight and this is slowing me up too as I need to buy more bolts and paint etc.

[101 Ron]

I have been working toward of how I am going to rig up dog clutches on the bevel box drive shafts to prevent wind up and improve performance on hard surfaces.
Here is 3 pics of how other people have done it.
1
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/355.jpg
This one is cable operated.

2
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/356.jpg


3
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/51.jpg
This one is air operated.

[101 Ron]

This is what I have to work with on my stalwart.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/351.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/352.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/353.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/354.jpg

[101 Ron]

Room for the front muff couplings is extremely tight and also hard to photograph.
The means to disconnect the drive is already there via the muff coupling, just by removing the cir clip on the drive shaft and sliding the coupling back over the drive shaft.
The problem is the drive shaft is very heavy and turns at about 2000 rpm and must be supported when the muff coupling is moved away from the centre bevel box as the muff coupling supports the weight of the drive shaft to the bevel boxes.
The correct way to support the drive shaft would be via self aligning ball race bearing.
The problem is the crane, fuel tank, transmission and motor would have to come out to do this and the support bearing would have to be a split type which I am told would cost about $2000 dollars a pop to buy in the size I need.
I want to do this without pulling the vehicle into a million bits.
So the next option is to do it similar to everyone else and use a pipe or seleeve around the outside of the siding muff .
It like the way the outside pipe or coller has been done is pic 2 above.

[101 Ron]

Picture 3 above has a simple air cylinder to shift the muff coupling and these are advailible from ebay for as little as $30 dollars each.
To use a cable or linkage to the cabin would be crowding a already crowded area on the vehicle.
To use the vehicles air system only requires one small nylon air line from the vehicles cabin air supply which has a 60 Psi safety valve in case of air loss to preserve operation of the brakes.
I have wiring already inplace to operate air soleniod valves for air cylinders.
To help me work this out and to keep the vehicle mobile I locally purchased Saracen muff couplings and bevel box lock nut.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/349.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/350.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/347.jpg
The problem is the muff coupling on the stalwart is smaller and the nut is very different too.
All the british FV vehicles were suppose to have high inter changeablity.
I now realise the muff coupling on the other Alvis FV 6x6 vehicles do not have a rubber boot over the coupling.
It was done differently on the stalwart with a rubber boot because the bevel drive shafts are so close to the bottom of the hull and much water was expected in the hull with amphibious operations.
Stalwart bevel boxes, transfercase and bevel drive shafts ect appear to be different from other vehicles in the Alvis family.
I did buy some new rubber Tie rod end boots which will help with water proofing in the future.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/348.jpg
I have been looking for a new rubber boot to go over the gear stick selector box..........the tie rod end boot fits good enough to do the job.
12 tie rod ends need to be split off the steering to fit the new boots and are real big rod ends too which have not been removed since new, so that should be a interesting job.

[101 Ron]

The . A.M.V.C.S the army truck club I belong to ,use to do rallies to the shoalhaven and the families farm at Kangaroo valley.
They said they were thinking about doing a run to the farm soon and asked if it was OK.
I am thinking of getting the Stalwart ready to do a run to the farm and start to enjoy the big beast of a thing and put it over the small off road test course on the farm.

[Stolly]

Hi Ron

your hull looks a lot cleaner than mine. I suspect i have a few more oil leaks inside probaly from the bevel boxes. No joy with the seat belt for you. I had a look at the spare double one I have. It (the bracket ) unbolts and it could be cut to make it a single one with an angle grinder? let me know if you want me to take it off and zap it down to you. Good to see you got the bilge all sorted out lol

cheers


Sean

[Stolly]

Hey Ron

thoses airlockers seem to be the way to go! Let me know when you have a chat to that fella down the road. I havent had a chance yet to go and have a look at those vehicles yet. When I get my days of this weekI will pop out there and take some pics

cheers


Sean:cool:

[101 Ron]

I helped my fitter and turner friend move into his unit today. ( I supplied a forklift)
it should take afew days to get him settled.
He curently owes me.
He is keen to get involved and has seen was is needed first hand and he is only 100 mtrs away.
If he is as good as he said he is, it should save me time stuffing around on my own lathe and do a better job.
Plan to make the outer coller one piece instead of weld on as in the pics as to make the design stronger and keep the whole thing running true.
My thread cutting on lathes is OK for one unit.........but to do 8 or 9 the same , forget it.........better for my friend to do it.
My problem is the drive muff couplings on my stalwart are rusted into place both sides and I have little leverage or purchase to slide them back.
I will try again on the weekend when I can swear more at them.( swearing and working on stalwarts seem to go together)
The next problem is finding the correct size heavy wall pipe needed.
I am still toying at , how or what material to use for the selector fork arrangement and the ring for it to be fitted on the stalwarts original muff coupling.
I am worried about lubrication and the whole thing locking up and wanting to twist around.

[101 Ron]

I am currently thinking just brazing on a steel selector fork ring with the groove machined into the ring.
Brazing it in place will reduce the ring wanting to shrink the standard stalwart muff coupling and still allow it to slide on the drive shaft OK instead of welding.
The fork itself could be brass plate cut to shape........should have some sort of anti friction properties and is easy to do.
A small bearing or roller for the selector fork would be better.........still working if it could be done.
Plan to make five disconnects first up and first fit and try 2 on the rear drive wheels and see if it works and get the bugs out of it.
Then fit 2 for the front wheels.
That will leave one set coupling conversion components which can be copied here in NSW or QLD to make more.

[101 Ron]

The Ebay $30 dollar air cylinders means its not worth stuffing around trying to make them and the ones with a threaded nut arrangement will be adjustable though a piece of angled steel welded onto the stalwarts hull and that angled plate would only need to be welded on 2 sides which will help fitting inside the stalwarts limited space at the bottom of the hull.
The brass selector fork can have a enlongated hole/slot to allow further adjustment and postioning inside the hull for the air cylinder shaft.
Using the cabins air supply festo brand air soleniod valve can be used to activate the air cylinders...........I have not checked out the cost of these.
I am thinking like a LPG fitter which I am and using LP gas lock off soleniods which I can get easily, but they tend to be 12 volt and not 24 volt.
Pressure to the cylinders only needs to be low and it would make for better engaugement that way, so using a micro spray painting air pressure regulator which is adjustable and costs as little as $30 dollars.
I am guessing 30 psi is all that will be needed.
I know the gas lockoff and air regulator arrangement works as it is the system I am using for the air horn and ARB air locker on my 101 landrover.
The ARB diff locker air soleniod should be looked at to for price and advailibility in 24 volt.

[101 Ron]

This pic is of Grahams Stalwart in Vic.
It doesnt clearly show the dog clutch arrangement.
It does show a extra steel tube running across the chassis and the fact the transmission and motor was removed to work it out using truck brake air diaphrams to work the whole thing.
The plastic tank is a small non standard petrol tank as Grahams stalwart has 2 LP Gas tanks in its belly where the main petrol tank used to be.
I suspect the MK 1 stalwart of Grahams has a lot more room to fit things as well.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1350.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1351.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1349.jpg

[101 Ron]

I am thinking a cylinder something like this.....just a cheaper ebay one



http://www.univer.com.au/cylframe.htm


Original Line® Cylinder - Bimba Manufacturing (http://www.bimba.com/Products-and-Cad/Actuators/Inch/Round-Line/Non-Repairable/Original-Line-Cylinder/)

[101 Ron]

Today was interesting and not planned in any way.
I tried to slide back those couplings on the bevel box drive shafts........without success.
I tried a bearing speader which wouldnt fit, hammers , bars and levers all without success.
I had the sh### with the thing.
I bolted the mirrors back on and decided I would take it for a run in the paddock next door just to blow the cob webs out of the motor.
In the paddock next door I found a track which lead to another track and so on.
After a while a land owner came over to bale me up.
it turned out we had common interest and the same friends.
I took him and his mate for a run in the stalwart.
He ended up giving me permission to go though his land when ever I want and drive though his drive way past his house to access another larger motor bike riding area on private land.
Whisle checking out this larger area with the stalwart I bumped into some mates from the local 4WD club letting their kids ride mini bikes.
I ended up having alot of fun...........making up for some of the blood sweat and tears.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1209.jpg

I have some pics and vid to come.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1204.jpg

[101 Ron]

101 Ron 2 :: 004-5.mp4 video by 101Ron - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid131.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/004-5.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid131@@AMEPARAM@@131@@AMEPARAM@@ p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/004-5@@AMEPARAM@@mp4

As usual the vids and pics never show how steep it really is.

[101 Ron]

101 Ron 2 :: 013-1.mp4 video by 101Ron - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid131.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/013-1.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid131@@AMEPARAM@@131@@AMEPARAM@@ p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/013-1@@AMEPARAM@@mp4


The tarp on the back is a temperary thing just to keep the weather off it and the dust out as none of the cargo area floor plates are in place.
The fan noise is because the cabin rear and floor plates are out.

[101 Ron]

101 Ron 2 :: 007-6.mp4 video by 101Ron - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid131.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/007-6.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid131@@AMEPARAM@@131@@AMEPARAM@@ p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/007-6@@AMEPARAM@@mp4

It turns out the miltary plugs in this thing will not self clean.
Civie type sparkplug conversion is now on the cards to stop plug fowling problems and a loss of power when needed.
I suppect the real problem is modern type fuels which this thing is not designed for.

[101 Ron]

101 Ron 2 :: 009-3.mp4 video by 101Ron - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid131.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/009-3.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid131@@AMEPARAM@@131@@AMEPARAM@@ p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/009-3@@AMEPARAM@@mp4

[101RRS]

Ron - I thought that tarp was your new Roof Top Tent. :)

Garry

[101 Ron]

101 Ron 2 :: 003-6.mp4 video by 101Ron - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid131.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/003-6.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid131@@AMEPARAM@@131@@AMEPARAM@@ p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/003-6@@AMEPARAM@@mp4

I can not think of any wheeled amphibian truck which is as good off road as this thing.
A DUKW and a LARC wouldnt be able to climb that mound of dirt.
The tight turning ablity and short lenght helps alot getting though the bush.
The vehicle impresses me off road wise.
I can now see why this vehicle was a yard stick in the 1970s/1980s to compare other off road trucks coming into service with the british army.
The tyres are very supprizing for bar treads as they seem to flex and grip well.
standard tyre pressures are 30 PSI
Gear changes are long and slow.
I had abit of fun going backwards in 4 th gear and stomped on the brakes........just felt the front wheels lift off the ground alittle bit.:D:p

[101 Ron]

Ron - I thought that tarp was your new Roof Top Tent. :)

Garry

It may be closer to the truth that you think..........the missus would love to see me and the stalwart gone.

[101 Ron]

101 Ron 2 :: 003-6.mp4 video by 101Ron - Photobucket (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/?action=view&current=003-6.mp4)

I can not think of any wheeled amphibian truck which is as good off road as this thing.
A DUKW and a LARC wouldnt be able to climb that mound of dirt.
The tight turning ablity and short lenght helps alot getting to though the bush.
The vehicle impresses me off road wise.
I can now see why this vehicle was a yard stick in the 1970s/1980s to compare other off road trucks coming into service with the british army.
The tyres are very supprizing for bar treads as they seem to flex and grip well.
standard tyre pressures are 30 PSI
Gear changes are long and slow.
I had abit of fun going backwards in 4 th gear and stomped on the brakes........just felt the front wheels lift off the ground alittle bit.:D:p

I found this You Tube clip which has been recently loaded on to the site.
The short wheel base of the stalwart makes for interesting very steep climbs and decents, but that same 10 ft wheel base with twin steer and locked drive excells in other ways especially getting a big wide vehicle though tight places.
The Humber suffers from short wheel travel, open diffs and non agressive tyres
Stalwart & Humber AWDC Bovington. - YouTube

[123rover50]

Good to see it going.You have done well..
Keith

[iain reed]

cool ron
good to see the old girl in action
quite like the tent,
you have the best toys !!! :):)

[101 Ron]

I have been working on my problem of the sparkplugs loading up and the effects the shielded leads have on the ignition system.
The standard plugs are over $10 dollars each and you need 8 of them.
They do not self clean and run a every small gap due to the poor spark from shielded leads.
The long manifold on a straight 8 tends to dump a bit of raw fuel on the bottom of the manifold when cold.

Standard plug
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/428.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/429.jpg
I ended up chopping up the old set of HT leads and pieces and made this.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/430.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/431.jpg

so I could use a protruding nose $1.50 sparkplug and also purchased 8https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/432.jpg
NGK motor bike sparkplug caps.
I used copper HT lead from a roll I had.

[101 Ron]

Fits in like this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/427.jpg

[101 Ron]

I have my inter wheel dog clutch on the back burner for a while untill I get enough energy to make a tool to side back the existing muff couplings and lay on my belly and a spend a few hours swearing at it.
I have been fitting new rubber boots to the steering ball joints.
The largest truck ball joint remover I could buy or locate is not big enough.
A 10 tonne 2 legged hydraulic puller for gearbox bearings etc is only just removing them.
New boots fitted and the rod ends sand blasted and painted.
I installed grease nipples as this will help to keep water out.
The adjustment tube had a grease nipple installed for the same reasons.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/425.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/423.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/424.jpg

[101RRS]

Ron - unless you want a Concourse vehicle why not turf the ignition system and just put in a modern electronic system - I am sure there is something out there that can be used.

Garry

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/422.jpg
Discs show no wear at all, only some minor suface rust.
Disc pads are very good.
The Disc calipers are 4 pot and have a indicator rod to show pad wear without removing the wheel.
The photos do not show the size of the components.
One of the above pics shows a small truck ball joint against the size of the stalwart one.
The Stalwarts ball joints are unworn.
I am starting to believe the 333 miles now on the odometer as true
The split pins for the ball joint nuts were brass and will be replace by stainless steel items.

[101 Ron]

Ron - unless you want a Concourse vehicle why not turf the ignition system and just put in a modern electronic system - I am sure there is something out there that can be used.

Garry

The ignition has been converted to electronic and that made a great difference.
The problem was the platium plugs and sheilded ignition leads.
The standard plugs will not self clean as they are not protuded nose.
The sheilding on a HT lead acts as a capacitor and takes the energy out of the spark before it reaches the sparkplug and why the standard plugs must run a small gap.
I wanted to fit military protuded nose shielded plugs , but cannot buy them in this country.
The standard set up is easily refitted if needed.

[101 Ron]

The following shows the middle hub assembly and what I call the 2 to 1 bar which relays steering movement to the middle wheels.
removing the ball joint from this bar was difficult as the gear puller couldnt be used.
A combination of a portapower with opening jaws, heat on the 2 to 1 bar and loctite freeze and release on the ball joint stud thread popped them.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/419.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/420.jpg

Note the middle wheel station has only 3 shock absorber/rebound tubes compared to the other wheel stations which have 4 due to the steering linkage

[101 Ron]

I am thinking of another explore or run with the stolly soon.
I have also made adapter plates for the fire extingushers as the halon military ones are illegal and I need 4 and only have 2.
4 dry power items are now fitted in the original positions.
A extingusher on a Stalwart is important.
Driving off with the parking brake left on may cause a fire in very short order.( It is very easy to forget about the parking brake or not release it correctly due to the way the hand lever works)
The twin contracting parking brake bands are on the very bottom of the bilge or bottom of the hull ,tends to have water and oilly goo about the place.
The gearing of the parking brake drums is that they heat up very quickly in a short distance............dont ask me how I know this .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/416.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/414.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/415.jpg

One of the spare halon extingushers will go onto the front of my 101 landy for show and the fact it originally had one.

[101 Ron]

I took the stalwart to a local charity fun raiser show and shine , so the stalwart was a bit out of place.
The show was local so I decided to go and rushed my repair work to get it ready on time and caused my self great tribulations in getting it there and back.........its a very long story.
This was the stalwarts first public outing in Australia.
Some pics
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1182.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/816.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1181.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/817.jpg

[101 Ron]

I will not be planning to up date this site untill well into the next year.
( I am sick of fixing the beast of a thing for now )
Now here are some old pics of stalwarts in action to keep the followers for this thread happy for awhile.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/811.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/812.jpg
This one below has bulk refuelling pack fitted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/813.jpg
This one below is ammo resupply.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/814.jpg
And this one below is just fun
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/815.jpg
Ron

[101 Ron]

Well its now been two years.
I am looking at where I have come from to where I need to go and what I now know.
No work was done to the stalwart over christmas or since.
I question if I can follow though on the Stalwart and get it to a standard I want it to be at.
Currently it is stored at work out in the weather and 40 degree days C or rain etc have not been my friend or my normal work load from my small business.
I have also been strained money wise so there is little to throw at the restoration of the stalwart..
My other projects are suffering because my small amount of spare time is going to the stalwart.
I am going to wait a bit more before starting up work again on the Stalwart and let the weather cool down a bit.
The pre chrismas run to the show and shine was a tribulation as when I done the steering tie rod ends I stuffed up some how as the wheel alignment over the four steer wheel was not correct and I chewed up two 1400 x20 bar treads badly to get it home.
people on the day were a great help, but the cause of the problem was not found.
I now suspect my work on the tie rods was OK , but a fault has occurred with the linkage from the steering hydraulic box/ ram.
The steering system is nothing like a normal twin steer truck set up .
The good news is for Christmas I got full workshop manuals for the stalwart and the important measurements and info to set the steering up from scratch.
Other things I have realised.
The performance of the stalwart off road has been good when off road, but has been a real dog on the tarred road.
Inter wheel wind up is the problem.
The vid a page or two back shows the stalwart performing well even with a few jugs miss firing , but the ground was rough and dusty so wind up didnt occur.
On road and the sparkle disappears.
Things that need to be done before the other stuff.
1/ Sort out the stuff up with the steering

2/Rig up dog clutches between drive wheels( will greatly increase on road performance, less wear and tear and allow replacement of tyres in pairs which will save running costs)

3/Fix the now badly leaking RHS front inner tracta joint.

[101 Ron]

Having a decent workshop information is telling me other things to check or look for.
The fire warning system has been disconnected and it is on the same circult for the high bilge level warning, the most likely reason is the one of the three fire wire circults has a short inside the special fire wire itself and is easily checked with the correct information and a lot of time.
The upper hull rust and side board/ tail gate sealing is not a issuse unless I want to swim the thing.
Overal I am disapointed with my self for not getting where I want to be with this vehicle, it size ,age, layout and different systems is beating me.
Ron........... humble army truck nut.

[101RRS]

Ron - the work you have done so far to actually get it on the road is great work. I would be tempted to pause a bit where you are and just sort the stuff to make it a good runner on the road like the wheel/steering alignment and get out and start enjoying it when you are able.

After a while when funds and the itch comes back then look at Phase 2 - the work required to swim it - also maybe look at what mods can go in to make it easier to drive on the road like - say 2wd.

What you have done in a couple of years is great.

Cheers

Garry

[101 Ron]

Just a bit of good news today.
My glass window mate rang up today saying his blokes are sitting on there bums while waiting for materials to arrive for a job and he was wondering if I could take the stalwart around to his place for the windows to be removed.
This I did.
It was a very different job for the window boys but they had it done in short order.
The window glass is a much stonger than normal automotive spec.
It appears to be triple laminated I heard the boys say.
The reason for removing the bonded in 5 piece windsrceen glass is to treat rust.
The good news is the rust is no where near as bad as I though it was.
I now have to get my self sorted and start working on the stalwart again as the the sooner the glass goes back the better, as the weather will knock around the dashboard instruments and controls etc.

[VK3UTE]

Hi Ron. Keep up the great work and I'm sure I speak for all other AULRO members when I say how much we have enjoyed following your progress on this site:D most of us can only dream of owning such an interesting vehicle!

I get like you with my Austin Champ some times when a string of problems come up, like now with bad brakes, oil leaks and front bushes that all need repairing. I try and wait for a rush of blood and get motivated;)

Keep going she is awesome

Cheers Simon.

[slug_burner]

I too have enjoyed reading this thread and admire how courageous and dedicated you are to have go as far as you have. I am not a military vehicle nut but can appreciate the interest others have. I think it is a real head turner and great to have all the bits of footage you have sourced for all to see what Defence could do back in the days when the the Reds were over the horizon.

[isuzurover]

I am sure you would regret it if you sell it Ron!!!

Keep at it!

Didn't Bill have some options for reducing wind-up on road?

[easo]

Any chance of her coming to Corowa?

[101 Ron]

I would love to go to Corowa.............But I cannot get away from work.
The other problem is the cost of getting it there..
My long term plans is to take the Stalwart to Corowa, but I am and the vehicle is not ready yet.............and if I see this whole project thought too.
I would like to cruise the stalwart down the Murry River from Albury to Corowa over a few days, just like what some people have done in GPA jeeps.
I could throw my B40 motor bike in the back as a run around with a old vinyl lounge to sit on in the back and a fishing rod while cruising at 5 knots.
One day....may be.......:p:p:p

[stuee]

Keep going at it Ron. I thought I had it all when I got my 101 then I saw your beast. Its great watching your rebuild progress.

Like others have said if its drivable I'd get some use out of it to keep the interest alive. That's something I wish I could do with my 101. And look on the bright side, at least you don't have to deal with the 101 club with this one :twisted:

[AndrewGJones]

awesome truck Ron.

you could always hang an outboard motor off the back. fraction of the fuel cost I would have thought. Put a tent in the back with your couch.

Or even better, an electric motor with a prop, and a couple of old batteries with a solar array.

Would it be possible to do a gas conversion on it? Sounds like running costs are the most dispiriting thing going on with it.

[Sitec]

I've just spent the last two hours reading thru all of the posts! Good work! Don't stop now!! You've got to make it float!!!! That hill climbing vid in the earlier posts... Someone said Cummins... Nah, that's a Detroit screaming its nuts off for sure! Keep going! Fantastic machine!!

[101 Ron]

I will start to get back into things next month.
I am having a bit of a break from the stalwart
Its hot and things have been extremely busy with work and after fixing everyone elses vehicles I dont feel like fixing my own.
Some pics with the windows out.
I have found some small rust holes and previous mig welding rough as guts patch up job done.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/324.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/325.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1530.jpg

[101 Ron]

Its leaking a bit of oil now out of the RHS front inner tracta joint.
I have though of a new possible name for it now instead of Seabold
.........Exxon Valdez......might be a better name.
The other thing which has happened is for a small amount of money I can get my hands on a very complete Thornycroft Nubian air field fire fighter truck.
This type of truck is fitted with a Rolls royce B81 motor very similar to the stalwart.
The truck is local and most likely could be driven home on trade plates.
The problem is the truck is a big 6x6...where do I put it and it would be a shame to part out a very complete truck just for the motor, which is a good restoration project in its own right
.
Any one want a Nubian for restoration, minus motor for Diesel transplant.?( slightly later models of Nubian ran a 903 cummings)
If I want the Nubian I have to move on it very quickly.

[101 Ron]

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/untitled_zpsb0b23c16.png

[101 Ron]

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/imagesCAGEO9PA_zps1ea83769.jpg

[101 Ron]

I have not done a up date on this thread for along time as nothing has been going on with the Stalwart.
I have only done some rust work around the windscreen.
Things have come to ahead in that I am time poor and have had many work,personal and family things going on.
My other vehicles have been getting some work done to them too as they were missing out when I was working on the Stalwart.

I have not given up on the Stalwart, just currently time poor.

The Nubian looks like going ahead and someone has been found to take it on as a restoration project minus motor.
The problem is the process of getting this vehicle relying on goverment departments processing things and this takes time.
I am hopeful a spare MK7 B81 Roller motor will be in the works.( to keep the motor fresh and running I am thinking I could set it up as a running static display)
It appears to be the same as the stalwarts motor minus the dry sump lubrication.
Ron

[disco2_dan]

Wow stuffs dreams are made of!! I'm sooo jealous!! One day when I win lotto mabey lol congrats hope it doesn't cause you to many head aches

[Mick_Marsh]

I would love to go to Corowa.............But I cannot get away from work.
The other problem is the cost of getting it there..
My long term plans is to take the Stalwart to Corowa, but I am and the vehicle is not ready yet.............and if I see this whole project thought too.
I would like to cruise the stalwart down the Murry River from Albury to Corowa over a few days, just like what some people have done in GPA jeeps.
I could throw my B40 motor bike in the back as a run around with a old vinyl lounge to sit on in the back and a fishing rod while cruising at 5 knots.
One day....may be.......:p:p:p
There was a Stolly at Corowa this year.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[101 Ron]

There was a Stolly at Corowa this year.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=60489&stc=1&d=1368532169

It is the second year Graham has been there.
He has deep pockets and had special transfercase gears cut to get abit of road speed out of it with drive disconnect clutches between the wheels so he is able to drive thing from Geelong.
It is a MK 1 and would be about 2 tonnes ligher than my Stalwart.

I am told he has done a idea I was thinking of doing for swimming but must have required alot of work to do it on a Mk1.
On a MK2 which has a central lube set up to all the tracta and hub reductions it is possible to use the brake air system via air pressure regulator and pressurise the central lube tank to say...5 psi.( in service it was never done)
Doing that would stop any water entering the hubs and tracta joints
There are 3 known stalwarts in Aust, one in Geelong, one in Nowra..mine and one in Brisbane north area and the owner of that one has previously posted on this site........we have all spoken to one another via phone at one time or another and compared notes.
The Qld Stalwart still is not allowed rego of any sort regardless of its conditon and the fact 2 other stalwarts have been running around the place without any trouble or incidents.
Its a shame about the rego on the QLD stalwart as the owner has got it very complete and it is hard for anyone else to see it without great cost.

[101 Ron]

IMG_0107_zpsf9f9ee55.mp4 Video by 101Ron | Photobucket (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/IMG_0107_zpsf9f9ee55.mp4.html'sort=3&o=1#/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/IMG_0103_zps093280f6.mp4.html'sort=3&o=2&_suid=13685345770360897994193679531)

IMG_0107_zpsf9f9ee55.mp4 Video by 101Ron | Photobucket (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/IMG_0107_zpsf9f9ee55.mp4.html'sort=3&o=1#/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/IMG_0108_zpse9c643b7.mp4.html'sort=3&o=3&_suid=13685345770360897994193679531)

IMG_0107_zpsf9f9ee55.mp4 Video by 101Ron | Photobucket (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/IMG_0107_zpsf9f9ee55.mp4.html'sort=3&o=1#/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/IMG_0103_zps093280f6.mp4.html'sort=3&o=2&_suid=13685345770360897994193679531)

[THE BOOGER]

Hey Ron I had a good talk to Graham at corowa he has pressurised the drive train for swimming and only uses 2 wheel drive for the hwy the road speed is a bit scary though:eek:

[101 Ron]

The very slow progress.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/159.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/002-12_zps5ac92649.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/160.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/001-10_zps2c9427c8.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/161.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/008-6_zps959f0396.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/162.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/009-6_zps81273221.jpg.html)
Treating the rust around the windscreen takes time.........earlier models everything unbolted, but mine being a later model is spot welded.
When the glass goes back in I intend to get the sealing bead to come right over and onto the flat surface of the cabin face.
While in the painting mood I intend to do the top of the cabin front.
The parking and indicator lights are standard British NATO items( the same as the ones on my 101 Landrover) and the lenes must be screwed on with silicone grease to seal them against being submerged in water..........the special grease is pricey at $90 dollars for a 400gram tube.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hey Ron I had a good talk to Graham at corowa he has pressurised the drive train for swimming and only uses 2 wheel drive for the hwy the road speed is a bit scary though:eek: I wonder if instead of dog clutches on the front two axles, you could make freewheel units similar to the ones used in the '48-'50 80 inch Landies.

That way you would have 6X6 drive going forward in a straight line and when there is slipery surfaces and the forward axles, particularly the outer wheels in the turn when cornering could turn faster than the rear fixed ones preventing wind-up. You would only have to engage/lock the freewheel units when you want to reverse.

[frantic]

It is the second year Graham has been there.
He has deep pockets and had special transfercase gears cut to get abit of road speed out of it with drive disconnect clutches between the wheels so he is able to drive thing from Geelong.
It is a MK 1 and would be about 2 tonnes ligher than my Stalwart.

I am told he has done a idea I was thinking of doing for swimming but must have required alot of work to do it on a Mk1.
On a MK2 which has a central lube set up to all the tracta and hub reductions it is possible to use the brake air system via air pressure regulator and pressurise the central lube tank to say...5 psi.( in service it was never done)
Doing that would stop any water entering the hubs and tracta joints
There are 3 known stalwarts in Aust, one in Geelong, one in Nowra..mine and one in Brisbane north area and the owner of that one has previously posted on this site........we have all spoken to one another via phone at one time or another and compared notes.
The Qld Stalwart still is not allowed rego of any sort regardless of its conditon and the fact 2 other stalwarts have been running around the place without any trouble or incidents.
Its a shame about the rego on the QLD stalwart as the owner has got it very complete and it is hard for anyone else to see it without great cost.
Just a suggestion but maybe he could "move" to a friends house in tweed heads, coolongatta, or Coffs Harbour and get it regoed in NSW if its allowed here but not in Qld?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Just a suggestion but maybe he could "move" to a friends house in tweed heads, coolongatta, or Coffs Harbour and get it regoed in NSW if its allowed here but not in Qld?He would have to move it to HIS house in Tweed Heads according to the RMS. The problem comes if QT prohibit its use on Qld roads so even if it has NSW rego with overwidth exemption, it is still over width in Qld.

If he had it Rego'd in Coolangatta village, he and Ron could play on the Shoalhaven River! :D

[Sitec]

Spotted this on Ebay and thought of you Ron... Ebay item no 261224715664. Know anything about it? Not the same one is it?? :)

[101 Ron]

Know nothing of it.
Seems to be in good nick for the money.




Nothing to report on the Stalwart.
I do have 6 new old stock tyres coming 1400x20 bar treads.
they are very hard to find in this country.

[101 Ron]

Tyre size comparision
Studebaker 7.50x20 on left, 14.00x20 in middle(Stalwart), 900x16 on right.( 101 Landrover)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1404.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/003_zps50153009.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1405.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/002_zps2508bad6.jpg.html)
I had to purchase Two tyres for the Stalwart, but they are hard to find in this country and the seller would only sell a lot of Six.
They are new old stock Denman military.
I have had trouble finding replacement air blower cabin ducting running from a booster fan behind the cabin to the windscreen.
It was disturbed removing the windscreen glass and UV affected and crumbled.
I mob called the Purple Pig had a small amount of the correct size hose in this country.
I found they have also a small amount of hose to suit 101 landrovers, from the engine cover to the heater box.
For interest sake the 14.00x20 measure about 48 to 50 inches dia
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1406.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/001_zps4ee532a8.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Every plate bolted to the out side of the vehicle to the body work has rust between it and the body as they were just bolted on with no sealer between the parts.
I have been sand blasting, undercoating and refitting with silastic and stainless UNF bolts to keep out the weather and moisture.
The screen over the cabin air intakes were straighten and the wire mesh brazed to each other again.
The Aust cam paint is slowly creeping to the rear of the vehicle.
Waiting on the glass mob to refit the glass.........they will only do this when they are quiet, but I cannot complain as the price is right.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/5.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/002_zps720cafd7.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/6.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/001_zpse4f883b4.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/7.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/IMG_0579_zps70f27ba8.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/3.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/004_zpsd8fdecb9.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/4.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/003_zpsc9496a9e.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Tie up point on cabin roof.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/016_zps98b82910.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/2.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/015_zps00467978.jpg.html)

[Mick_Marsh]

Know nothing of it.
Seems to be in good nick for the money.




Nothing to report on the Stalwart.
I do have 6 new old stock tyres coming 1400x20 bar treads.
they are very hard to find in this country.
Where did you get them?

[101 Ron]

This page may be a interesting read.
It details the sinking of amphibious vehicles in peace time.
One was a Stalwart.
The bearings in the water jet was not lubricated as the owner was not aware of the need too.
After time the impellor was rattling around and wore a hole though the side of the water jet tube and sunk the vehicle in short order.
Sinking of the Amphibious Passenger Vehicle, Miss Majestic, Lake Hamilton ... - Google Books (http://books.google.com.au/books?id=0uZHnoMTuM8C&pg=PA57&lpg=PA57&dq=alvis+stalwart&source=bl&ots=EMCfvpbow7&sig=y0etwBLVcdsJ2w7Sw7mn6YvFo1c&hl=en&sa=X&ei=juW2UdrCH_GXiAfP5oCoDA&ved=0CC8Q6AEwAThG#v=onepage&q=alvis%20stalwart&f=false)

[101 Ron]

Where did you get them?

Some sort of industrial tyre wholesaler had them sitting in his shed in Sydney.
They are old new stock.
The purchase was done though a company who wholesales forklift tyres to me for my business.

[101 Ron]

Swimming and towing a trailer full of people.
Alvis Stalwart towing Wagon - YouTube

[101 Ron]

This vid just about nails it all.
6x6 Amphibious Truck Alvis Stalwart - YouTube

[Homestar]

Any plans for a launch like this one at all Ron? :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2h_5tgOUX28

[Sitec]

How on earth did you find the Chinese version Gav?? :)

[Homestar]

No idea, it came up in the box after watching one of the vids Ron had posted.:)

[Sitec]

The line "you've got to be a bit mad to own one" made me chuckle! :D

[101 Ron]

The line "you've got to be a bit mad to own one" made me chuckle! :D

Its true......:):):):):):p

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1295.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/172_zps81ccacff.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1296.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/173_zps5b65036d.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1297.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/174_zps5c54700f.jpg.html)
The cabin glass is going back in after 7 months.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1298.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/175_zpscecb9970.jpg.html)

I can now get the wipers/washers and heater ect working again with the swim board which has the number plate attachted and start driving the silly thing again

[Sitec]

Just looking at the last photo, and I spotted the white line markers on the hubs.. I knew that trans wind up was an issue but had not really thought about it until now. If the three left hubs/wheels and the three right hubs/wheels have to stay in time, the wind up would be massive!! Kerb bouncing now makes sense!!

[101 Ron]

I believe the drive line if in good condition is strong enough to handle the wind up.
I plan to fit drive disconnects between the wheels for I have found the vehicle performs better on loose surfaces and the wind up on hard surfaces can be felt when driving.
The vehicle should steer better and go better without the wind up.
Another reason I want to fit disconnects if I do blow a hub or bevel box, there is no parts in Australia..........I must look after the drive train no matter what.
Drive disconnects opens up options of fitting odd size tyres and towing the vehicle home if it breaks down.
The English stalwarts can drive hundreds of miles a day on hard roads without issue.
Keeping water out of the drive system and correct lube seems to be the key.
But the problem is a lot of these machines get thrown straight into a mud pit or people who has operated them didn't have the knowledge to service the vehicle correctly.
The white lines on the hub also show where the hub oil level plugs are .
I have put the drive disconnect plans on the back burner as I have more important basic things to sort out , like steering and oil leaks.
I plan to remove my first wheel station soon to fix that oil leak that has been giving me the ****s.

[amazing]

I believe the driving up a kerb to be bunkum

if you have tyres not exactly the same diameter or you drive anything other than a straight line then within a few yards the wind up is back to its tyre scrubbing max.( had vacuum actuator fail on my 101 with worn fronts and new rear tyres drove 40 miles home..lots of noise bad steering wise passengers said to bump up a kerb told them it was a waste of time so gave a try an low and behold within about 5 yards back to full wind up...)

other vehicles from Alvis with same drive and which are heavier were used on the streets of Northern Ireland without issues..for many years

water in bevel boxes I agree to be the cause of failure..not wind up

the bevel boxes can cope with the whole vehicle teetering over a ridge without fail surely more stress than a little tyre scrub.

[roobar_and_custard]

Hi.
Found this tonight. Classic Land Rover film including a Stolly which has been cut in half.
Combat Land Rover Line-up - YouTube

Enjoy.
Ian

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi.
Found this tonight. Classic Land Rover film including a Stolly which has been cut in half.
Combat Land Rover Line-up - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWVzB_bLlKY)

Enjoy.
IanPretty much been in or driven every one of those vehicles, apart from the 2 ton FC prototype. The saracen/saladin/stolly have a pretty unique sound.

[101 Ron]

The new green paint is still very slowly creeping to the rear.
new knobs found for the crane controls and I am experimenting with replacing the harder to read brass labels.
I am trying out the local trophy maker people to markout a new tyre pressure and crane operation plate in brass..............something which I cannot do with letter punches.
I cannot see the light at the end of tunnel, but just a dim glow.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/164.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/022_zpsa15ebe3e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/165.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/021_zpsce2df6ba.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/166.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/023_zpsc9a252b2.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/167.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/024_zpsbed08884.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/54.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/001_zps75fe30bc.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/55.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/004_zps9a78139c.jpg.html)

[Sitec]

Very neat. They've done a good job of that! Will finish it off nicely. I see on the old plate, that the rear axle has had a pressure increase at some point.... Any ideas?

[101 Ron]

This pic should show the original plate a little bit better.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/53.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/003_zps020ddc76.jpg.html)
If you look carefully the rear tyre pressure has been over stamped by the military.
I assuming the plates were all made for non crane models and then on crane models the rear pressure was over stamped.
The crane sits forward and adds about 1 tonne in weight.
The difference in tyre pressures between axle groups is all about letting the tyres unwind/scrub out.

[101 Ron]

Many Stalwarts had the suspension adjusted to place more weight on the centre wheels , as to help the outers to unwind.
Note the low pressures.
The tyres do not act like your normal bar threads.........they are soft and flexible, more like balloon tyres.
With the pressure running so low it is not really necessary to have central tyre inflation like a DUKW.
I find the low tyre pressures supprizing considering the weight of the vehicle.
The brake air system is used to inflate tyres by hand via a outlet in the cabin.

[101 Ron]

I should be picking up the crane control plate next week.
40 dollars a pop.
I silastic behind the plates as the original ones trapped moisture and caused corrosion.
The standard plates are held in place with extremely fine and small screws which were impossible to save.
The small brass plates are though the whole vehicle, on every drain and control lever and tap.
A lot of the plates on the out side of the vehicle are unreadable.

[101 Ron]

I still have to check out the area of the cabin behind the batteries for rust and paint if needed and then its off with the RHS front wheel station and another learning curve.
The weather on the East coast has been good on weekends lately so a little bit is getting done.
The engineering in this vehicle continues to amaze me and they had it so close to being right............they just need those inter axle disconnects and a 2 speed transfercase.
Everything has been well thought out in detail, like cabin design, CES placement, servicing, major component access is good if you know the way to do it.
The petrol Rolls in the rear is growing on me as it is so easy to start and live with and it is just so designed to last.
It has fantastic flexibility in its limited power delivery which makes up a lot for its lack of 2 speed transfercase.

[amazing]

pic of nameplate pins in gallery

used on mine equip brass plates and mil equip

cant paste from phone here so jave a peek

[101 Ron]

Not a lot is been painted inside the cabin, only whats needed to control rust.
It can be done at a later date.
The paint on the outside is only the first coat so the speak , as when the outside is finished I will give it another coat as working on this thing climbing over the cabin and body work with tools knocks the paint around.
At last count I have used some thing like 20 litres of paint so far and I am only say 1/3 of the way done.

[101 Ron]

Roof top spot light overhauled and has been refitted sealed with silastic.
It had been full of moisture, as humidity from the hull and cabin can travel into the light via its control handle.
The reflector was in good condition and it looks to be a marine fitting, so only a sandblast and clean up was needed.( moisture didn't hurt anything.)
It throws a good light.
It is a very good idea to have it fitted as being able to spot light at night off road helps greatly with this sort of vehicle.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1629.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/004_zps54868504.jpg.html)

The handle for the light sits easy for the driver just in front of his head.
A good design feature.
Note the small round metal fitting in front of where the spot light goes though the roof.( under the wave deflector)
It is a exhaust outlet for the main air wiper motor and is made in a way so water will not want to run into the wiper motor if a wave splashed over the front of the vehicle when swimming,
The stalwart had a lot of thought put into it.
Inside the cabin is fitting to hold a hand held type spot light as to store it when not in use.( I have seen this type of light fitted to the out side of a Ferret scout cars turret, why you would need it on a stalwart with roof top light I don't know.)

[101 Ron]

pic of nameplate pins in gallery

used on mine equip brass plates and mil equip

cant paste from phone here so jave a peek

You have some good 101 porn on your gallery..:D:D:D:D:D:D

[amazing]

:D:D

12v GS..

8 years one major failure (starter so hand cranked) ironically was on day I sold it...

very reliable..

[101 Ron]

Another one done.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1466.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/001_zpsab6d6e65.jpg.html)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The plates are looking good! :)

BTW, the Saracen (+/- s) and Saladin are due at the same location on Saturday 21st and Sunday 22nd, transport has been booked already so shouldn't be any pull outs this time. Will let you know if anything changes.

[101 Ron]

The plates are looking good! :)

BTW, the Saracen (+/- s) and Saladin are due at the same location on Saturday 21st and Sunday 22nd, transport has been booked already so shouldn't be any pull outs this time. Will let you know if anything changes.

I am guessing this is Camden again ???????

[DasLandRoverMan]

The petrol Rolls in the rear is growing on me as it is so easy to start and live with and it is just so designed to last.
It has fantastic flexibility in its limited power delivery which makes up a lot for its lack of 2 speed transfercase.

LPG conversion for economy? Plenty space for a big tank.

I've seen a couple over here with silly Diesel engines in them. I was once tempted by one with a 6.2 V8 that was on milweb for £1500, and somewhere on the south coast.
Probably best that I resisted temptation and stuck with the 101.

It has been suggested that a decent Perkins 6.354 would be a better diesel fitment, if you were so inclined.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

LPG conversion for economy? Plenty space for a big tank.

I've seen a couple over here with silly Diesel engines in them. I was once tempted by one with a 6.2 V8 that was on milweb for £1500, and somewhere on the south coast.
Probably best that I resisted temptation and stuck with the 101.

It has been suggested that a decent Perkins 6.354 would be a better diesel fitment, if you were so inclined.Are there any decent Perkins? They may go for ages, but they are slugs.

A Detroit 6-71 maybe
I am guessing this is Camden again ???????Yes , Same bat channel. Same bat time. :D

[101 Ron]

Only one diesel will work well in the Stalwart and that is the K60 Rolls Royce diesel.
The K60 is a direct inter change will a B81 petrol , but is 300 kg heavier.
What ever diesel is fitted, it needs to spin at 4000 rpm and be a inline motor.
A 2000 rpm diesel will not cut the mustard unless you want 25 mph top speed.
One UK owner has I think a Bedford diesel fitted , most likely a Bedford 460 or 500 and the LC versions of these motors ( designed for coaches ) could spin to 3200 rpm which is close to the ball park and may be slightly more with a lifted governor.
Perkin phaser diesel can spin some where near the same as the Bedford motor.
I do have a plan for LPG on the Stalwart ( I am a LPG fitter), but I still need to do the basics first and find time to sort out important problems.

[101 Ron]

Will try and make Camden.

[Sitec]

4000rpm... That's singing for a big diesel!! The Rolls would be a long way off that wouldn't it?? The Cummins is to the boards at 3200, but happiest burbling around at 2000 rpm...

[DasLandRoverMan]

The yanks reckon they can have em running happily with a 4,200rpm redline, not reccommended for long periods, but I think something to do with it stopping the pump backing off the fuelling once they get past a certain rpm.

Gas on the Rolls is definately a better idea.

[101 Ron]

B81 Petrol will handle 3750rpm all day.( will do 4000rpm for a short time)
K60 Rolls Royce Diesel will do 3750 rpm max governed speed.
K60 replaced the B81 in early Abbot and FV435 ???? tracked vehicles.
The K60 is a designed power pack replacement for the B81.
The K60 profile is similar to the B81.
B81 diesels were never fitted to the stalwart as the british army was the main user and they were happy with the petrol motor.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1368.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/k60-engine_zps46ce75fe.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1369.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/k60-engine-cutaway_zpsdfb4e438.jpg.html)
The K60 is a common piston two crank design that has intermediate gearing between cranks and therefore could give the needed output speed.
The K60 is a interesting motor as it was a stolen German WW2 design and civie versions of this motor had outputs and power to weight only now beening matched by modern turbo/intercooled diesel designs.

[101 Ron]

K60 motor fitted in Stalwart by a private owner.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1366.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/K6020aft20left_zps1d6b314f.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1367.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/K6020aft_zps22e3d6f6.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1364.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/K6020left_zpsa7fd6966.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1365.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/K6020front_zps76e14b33.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1364.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/K6020left_zpsa7fd6966.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1365.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/K6020front_zps76e14b33.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1363.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/K6020view20right20right_zps936b721d.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

I understand these two pics are from one of two factory converted phaser Perkin diesels.
Many other Perkins were fitted in private hands.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1361.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/stalwart-10_zps59a321b1.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1362.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/stalwart-9_zpse6625fa0.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Note due to the location of the water jets, vee type motors do not fit well unless its a narrowish, big block American V8 petrol.

[101 Ron]

This is the standard air compressor and power steering pump fitted on some sort of diesel in a stalwart........I cannot remember the diesel type.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1360.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/DSC00942_zps43e364f6.jpg.html)

K60 power packs can be picked up in UK as new very cheaply.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Interesting use of plastic drain pipe there, I'm assuming for the air intake?

I can also say I've learned something about Rolls engines, combined with the usual amusement that even with 70-80 years of technology advancing and designs developing the old stuff is still at very least a viable, if not a better option.

In a similar vein I have a mate who owns a small haulage company over here, they run a pair of (I think) MAN Rigids, and recently restored one of their old (70's vintage) ERF's with a Gardner engine.
They ended up running the ERF alongside the MAN's through a busy period and found the oldun was better on fuel, whilst the emissions test found that the engine was as clean, if not better than the Euro4 lumps with ****loads of emission control kit in the MAN's.

Progress...

[101 Ron]

Gardner diesel have a great name here too.
They were not used in road haulage here much as there power to weight ratio was not than good.
But buses used them and a lot of marine engines are still around.

[DasLandRoverMan]

A bit of a deviation from the topic (but staying with Gardners) a mate of mine recently bought himself an old tug which has been repowered with a 180bhp Gardner.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1347.jpg

The engine itself is absolutely huge (about 7-8 feet long) and is a real thing of beauty. Impressively quiet, and very refined, along with the really cool addition of a hydraulic control system for the throttle and gearbox that all works off of one lever.

I'll make an effort to take some pictures next time I see him.

[Sitec]

A great series of shots there. That twin cranked Rolls is brilliant. Off to YouTube now to find a vid of one running so I can hear what it sounds like... Prob not to dissimilar to the old Deltic Diesels!

[101 Ron]

Abbot FV433 SPG Rolls Royce Tank Engine K60 First Start - sounds great !! - YouTube

fv432 rolls royce k60 pack walkaround - YouTube

[Sitec]

I was going to attach the very same vid!! That would be a tight fit in a 101! :D

[Lotz-A-Landies]

A bit of a deviation from the topic (but staying with Gardners) a mate of mine recently bought himself an old tug which has been repowered with a 180bhp Gardner.

...Gardiners have a very good reputation for marine diesels. Talking about Gardiners, the North Fort Museum on Sydney's North Head has a couple of operational WWII searchlights 90cm and I think 160cm which are powered by Gardiners. Very quiet operation.

[101 Ron]

Last Saturday I went to a AAVA turn out to get a look at a Saladin ( very rare in Aust) and Two Saracens and see the differences between these vehicles and the Stalwart as they are all apart of the same vehicle family.
I also wanted to try and exchange information about maintaince and try and get a idea how the other vehicles in the family performs.
Before I owned the Stalwart I had ridden in these vehicles before and knew a little bit about them.
Now I am paying much more interest.
It turns out a little bit is the same and a lot is different.
I thought the suspension would be the same , but the stalwart rides higher due the different wishbone design , bigger tyres, bigger and more cranked up torsion bars.
The stalwart is bigger in every dimension especially length and height.
Both the Saladin and Saracen ride better than the stalwart as there suspension is softer.
The bottom parts of the hull is totally different between the other vehicles and the Stalwart.
The method of operation of steering is totally different.
Brakes are totally different between all three vehicles.
Saladin has ring brakes( a very early form of disc brake )
Saracen has drum brakes
Stalwart has modern dual circult air over hydraulic disc brakes with a separate twin drum parking brake.
The Stalwart has more modern systems like being fitted with a very good altenator.
Battery master switches the same, but wired and fitted differently.
Cooling system on the stalwart is similar but much larger and has the full hull air flow feature.
The Saracen and Saladin I could feel by watching and riding on them have less power than the stalwart( B80 verses B81 motor), but the preslector gearboxes can put the advailible power down quickly , while the stalwart is take your time and wait for the revs drop and hope you catch the next gear before the thing rolls to a stop.

[101 Ron]

Saladin

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/609.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/020_zpsb5f40241.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/610.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/019_zpsed740506.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/611.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/014_zps11814359.jpg.html)
Saracen

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/612.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/018_zps68db8a13.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Battery frame painted and the area where it fits has been needle gunned and will have a coat of bituminous black paint and Aust cam to go on yet.
Acid and water tends to sit in this part of the hull/cabin.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/605.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/006_zpsa8f7a9ed.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/606.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/007_zps5e1f3669.jpg.html)
In the above you can see the aquatic steering rods running to the rear.



This is the same area, but shows the little box designed to supply power to radio gear if fitted.
The other funny bracket near it, is for a not being used seat belt catch to latch onto.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/607.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/010_zps88c90c31.jpg.html)

This spot had much loose rust and paint and got the red oxide treatment( been needle gunned again), it is high in the rear of the cabin, I may one day fit the inner com boxes here, it is great little place to keep small items in the cabin because of the metal pocketed area.
You can just see the top seat belt anchors.
I am doing a lot of painting in the cabin with brush as a spray gun will kill me fume wise in the small space.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/608.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/008_zpsef9dda86.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The presector gearbox appears to be joy to drive compared to the manual one in the Stalwart and the Stalwart without the fluid coupling relys more on the power spread of the motor( luckily the B81 has a good power
spread too.)
I asked why I rarely see a Ferret/Saracen/Saladin do more extreme off road work.
The preselector box has no engine braking and a owner tried to explain to me in a hard situation the preselector can be a bit hard on the drive line causing the wheels to slip or the fluid coupling will get hot ect.
While the stalwart is harder to drive on road, its ratios and gearbox is more for strictly off road.
The transfercase, looking at the drivers book pictures shows the very different item in the Stalwart than to a Saracen, plus the stalwart has the auto locking diff fitted too.
I was trying the find out how the transfercase is lubricated with the preselector gearbox.......on the stalwart the transfercase has its own oil pump driven via special drive shaft from the gearbox which is a Stalwart specially made item.

[101 Ron]

The weight of the Alvis Saladin/Saracen/Stalwart family is about the same.
The armour verses all the extra stuff on the stalwart like the crane, winch,and swimming equiptment.
Loaded the Stalwart is heavier at 16 tonnes(the others were not designed to carry extra pay loads) and why it has lower gearing.
The central lube tank for the drive hubs, tractor joints is a big plus for the stalwart as it saves trying to top up everything if things are a bit old and leaky.
I was supprize none of the other Alvis vehicles on the day were not running oil in the suspension, but grease and nothing in the way of additives to the tractor joints or hubs.
A good day to compare and figure out how the Stalwart fits in the Alvis family.
I would have loved to have the stalwart to run around in on that day, but the Stalwart also needs a good off road challenge to show its best and that is hard to find on a public open day.
( for me to get the stalwart transported to and from site from home would have cost 500 dollars each way verses 750 dollars in fuel and the risk of a breakdown and wear and tear if I drove it to and from)......too expensive for me.