The Ultimate FC

[DasLandRoverMan]

Most definitely a rich mans toy?

Stunning pieces of engineering, and the more I read from you about it (a lot more encompassing than the Wikipedia article) the more I've come to appreciate how well thought out they actually are.
It certainly isn't something that would be designed today, even if the requirement existed I suspect whatever was tendered for the job would be nowhere near as good with cost cutting and built in obsolescence.

I need a lottery win. Suppose I should buy a ticket...

[101 Ron]

A few vids for you blokes to look at.
A stalwart running on four.
Alvis Stalwart - YouTube

And a FV624....REME version, note extra carrying racks bolted to rear tailgate.
They are playing with the steering buckets and you will see it reverse too.
stalwart vy. Wasser - YouTube

The interesting part is watching it come out.......you can hear the water jets catching the air
Alvis Stalwart - YouTube

[Homestar]

So when are you taking yours for a swim Ron?:)

[Sitec]

So when are you taking yours for a swim Ron?:)

X2!:)

[101 Ron]

The Answer is easy...........when it floats.


Refer to early posts and pics multiple rust holes.

[THE BOOGER]

Simple solution bigger bilge pumps and some buckets:D

[101 Ron]

This why it is not swimming.
Holes........and plenty of them.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/415.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/008_zps1fdf68ca.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/416.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/007_zpse016d57f.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/417.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/009_zps9f67387d.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/418.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/005_zpsf0c3d07a.jpg.html)
It just needs time, it is all straight forward flat 2/3mm plate stuff.
The hardest part is cutting out and sorting out previous patch over repair plates.
I have the skills and gear to sort it out very well.......but not the time.

[101 Ron]

In everything I touch, storage out doors over the years with rain water in the bottom of the hull which doesnt matter, but the condensation from that water gets between panels and rusts.
I have to treat it now.
This vehicle is a true UNF vehicle as every thread is a fine UNF and we all know what fine threads are like with corroded bolts to free up.
It is the reason why I am tending to at great cost replace every bolt I take out with a Stainless steel one, retap the tread and install the stainless bolts with never sieze.
They even use UNF threads in brass parts even though that type of thread is lest suitable for the material.........it was all about standardisation of parts.
The good news is I only need a few different sizes of bolts and nuts etc, because of that standardisation.
I have to needle gun the loose multi coats of paint and rust and then paint with red lead and then the colour.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/413.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/006_zps150c949a.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/414.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/003_zpsdfc3ed32.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The most important thing to float on a stalwart is the side gate and tailgate seals..............if they are no good, then the floating business just doesn't happen.
My side and tail gate seals are serviceable.
The problem is the rusty areas which need to be replaced are near the rubber seals.
If the seals have to come off or are damaged/disturbed, they are old and will not refit and seal again.
No new seals are advailable, especially in Aust.
I would have to pay a large amount of money to get 3 different dies made to get new rubber extrusions done from scratch.
The lengths of rubber seal extrusion is large.

It must be remembered the Stalwart is a bit different in the world of amphibious vehicles because of its drop sides and most commercial operators of these vehicles ditch the drop sides and weld on steel sides.
The drop side panels are a work of art, being all alloy and will float/waterproof in there own right.( They are large and strong, but still light enough with a really clever cam locking arrangement for one person to lift and close them tightly and quickly)
The drop side panels have 1/8 BSP threaded test ports to pressure test the panels and test the skins etc.( they are hollow double skin)
I know at least one drop panel needs a bit of TIG work to sort it out.
I have realised British army drivers must park by Brail.

[THE BOOGER]

Something to aim for its all fun doing restorations

[101 Ron]

Well my latest report is not that big.
The weather has been reasonable for me to work on the stalwart, but now the hold up has been my health.
I have slowly come good.
The rust treatment and a lot of the painting has been done at the back of the cabin.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1446.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps9796199f.jpg.html)
In the picture below shows the cabin back plate fitted.
It is heavy and a waste as another plate the same size bolts over the top of it giving a double skin.
I decided to leave it out.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1447.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zpsf9f5677e.jpg.html)
I have just fitted this plate that holds the troop seats at the back of the cabin.( below)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1448.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zps094508dc.jpg.html)
I loaded the mig into the back of the stalwart with the forklift and welded up a few small rust holes.

[101 Ron]

The vehicle has been turned around in my small yard at work so I can tackle that oil leak which has been giving me the ****s.
I had these wedges made which are suppose to go in between the suspension arms as to hold the arm with the torsion bar up out of the way.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1444.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zps94b6fe07.jpg.html)
The problem is the stalwarts lower wish bone doesn't have a strengthen area on it to take any great weight( unlike the Saracen and Saladin)so I am worried if I place enough load on the wishbone and jack to move the wish bone arms enough to fit the suspension/torsion bar lock wedges I may break some thing.
Design of a carrier for the disc and hub to fit on the trolley jack is in MK 1 version and doesn't fit , so MK2 will have to made or the problem sorted in another way.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1445.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zpsacc5627f.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

I have all the workshop manuals, but so far they have been confusing and the specs supplied for the hub carrier etc are complicated/hard to make.
I think ,yes I flick though the book, but I will use my normal mechanic instincts, as its going to be easier.
caliper and bits now removed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1441.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/006_zps3467f2d3.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1442.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zps66485d2e.jpg.html)
doesn't look much in the pics, but the parts are big....ie the bolts that hold on the caliper have 1 1/8th heads on them.( and the reason why I need some sort of carrier to hold the wheel station)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1443.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/007_zps223b4de3.jpg.html)
I do know some of the pins in the wish bones knock out only in one direction.
I know there is a large number of O ring seals.( the shocker shaft in the pic is oil lubricated and has 2 o ring seals per shock)

[101 Ron]

The plan is to sort out the oil leak at the inner tracta joint housing and while everything is apart to chip back paint and rust treat the area and just generally find out how hard it is going to be and if it is worth while pulling the other wheel stations apart or just leave them alone.
I have to do some measuring and check why my steering alignment is out after removing the tie rod ends from a year ago.
I also know there is a pin which has to be knocked out of the drive so the inner to outer tractor joint can be separated from each other and it has to lined up with access plug/holes...........meaning I will have to move the whole vehicle backwards or forward a little bit to line things up on 5 wheels ???????

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1432.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0038_zps85dfa3cf.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1433.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0037_zpsb2d75eda.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1434.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0036_zpsee2205da.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1435.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0035_zps273b8af8.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

A little bit more done today.
I pulled back the rubber boot over the inner tracta joint hub.
It looks perfect and I cannot understand why it is leaking.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1377.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zpsd623e72e.jpg.html)
I decided to drain the inner tracta joint housing and got very worried when a bit of water drained out around the plug.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1378.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zpsfb9538bd.jpg.html)
But it is not a problem because the tracta joint housing is double plugged.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1379.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zpsd0919263.jpg.html)
One plug keeps water out and the other smaller plug inside keeps the oil in.

[101 Ron]

This pic is the brass plugs that go over the ends of the wish bone pivot shafts.
Strangely a normal 3/4 drive from a 3/4 drive socket set was slightly too large.
I had to grind down one of my short extension shafts to size to undo them.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1372.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zpsd3aa119b.jpg.html)

I manage to jack up the suspension enough to incert the steel wedges...........they work a treat.
I now realise they are needed to take the strain and load off the wishbone pins so they can be removed.
I now have to look at how those pins come out exactly and how to hold the wheel station while doing that.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Ron

The oil seems to be coming from higher up than the plug.

Could it be like what sometimes happens on Series LR swivels, where the oil bypasses around the back of the seal?

In the Series LR it is solved by thorougly cleaning the dismantled assembly and using sealant between the retaining ring and the seal as its reassembled.

Diana

[101 Ron]

The set up is abit like the a landy C/V joint housing with a big rubber boot around it to protect it.
The rubber boot was completely filled with dark black oil.(all the way to the top)
I had to quickly wipe away the oil for the picture and that the shiney inner housing could be seen.
There could be play in the housing some where, or the seal has just gone hard or something though old age.
The colour of the oil is because of the oil dag additive I added to the central lube tank.
The whole job would be a lot easier if it was a split seal or something .
I hope Tim Vibert has Saracen ones and that Saracen seals fit.( or I will be looking to O/S for parts.)
I am learning with the Saracen/Saladin/Stalwart thing is the parts look the same but are different in detail and do not interchange.

[101 Ron]

Made up a bracket to hold the wheel station with a jib on a forklift.
It fits onto the wheel studs.
To get the wishbone pins out I have made a adaptor to go onto my slide hammer.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1334.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zpsde58e030.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1335.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps00d1aef0.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1336.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zpsde263691.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Today it took a 2 mtr length of water pipe over the hook spanner and a lot of swearing just to get one shockasorber top undone.
The good news is the shock appears to be in good nick.
I want them removed so I can knock off the thick flaking paint and ad some new paint.
I don't want to use heat on those special nuts as there is a rubber bush and stuff on the inside which is worth saving.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1273.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps26697570.jpg.html)
I started to fit up the reconditioned folding troop seats and having problems with UNF threads not lining up.
I dropped a spanner to the goo which is the bottom of the hull and couldn't find it and just To make my day the oil floating down there is black , meaning one of my bevel boxes is leaking oil into the hull too.
In a nut shell the crane, fuel tank, engine oil tank , transfercase and gearbox would have to come out to replace the seals ?????????
I am not happy.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1274.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zpsf53355e4.jpg.html)

[roobar_and_custard]

Sounds like the next step is a cold beer or a bottle of wine. Things always look better after that...

[chazza]

I dropped a spanner to the goo which is the bottom of the hull and couldn't find it ...[/URL]

Hard luck Ron!

Would a magnet on a stick reach in there? I have one on an extendable telescopic shaft, which has saved my sanity several times - $10 on the net,

Cheers Charlie

[spongie]

If you've left the steel plate Off on the rear of the cabin and just put the pressed plate with the seats on back, would this not affect the watertight integrity of the superstructure if water comes over?

[101 Ron]

If you've left the steel plate Off on the rear of the cabin and just put the pressed plate with the seats on back, would this not affect the watertight integrity of the superstructure if water comes over?

Very good of you to pick that up spongie.
Yes there is holes at the corners which can just been seen in the pics.
They could be sealed up with silastic or some thing.
But even with the steel flat plate on it is really not water tight as water can travel though the bottom of the hull under the cabin and though the Aquatic steering rod cabin holes etc.
In side the cabin each side at the back the cabin is open in around about way to the area under the cargo floor and cooling intake which is not water tight, as is the cooling air drawn in behind the cabin and though under the cargo area floor to the radiator and then out though the exit grill in the rear most area of the cargo bay.
I think nothing has been lost except for weight and a cause of rust.
The plate now fitted is strong and is extruded alloy.
I am guessing the reason for doubling up on plates at the rear of the cabin as a requirement for a double bulk head between cargo and cabin for the transport of petrol and diesel.( most likely will never transport fuel again)
The parts to worry about water wise is sealing of drop tailgate and sides/windscreen/winch rubber grommets/ NATO lights sealing to hull and a whole lot of other stuff.
Cool weather tomorrow, will make another start on that wheel station.
The bottom of the stalwart is like a dirt /water/oil covered labyrinth topped off by a layer of pipes/tanks and linkages..............what falls downthere stays down there to be found again many years later.

[101 Ron]

I have study the DUKW and the Stalwart and tried to get as much information about Russian amphibious vehicles etc.
My father use to own a DUKW and I got the chance to work on it when I was a lot younger.
A simple forty year old rubber seal can pop on a stalwart at any time without warning and cause the vehicle to sink in short order.

On a DUKW the only water proofing of the drive shafts to the diffs is via large rubber bellows , two per tail shaft and they are exposed if the vehicle is used off road.
Lose/ tear the tailshaft bellows and no Higgins pump is going to keep the DUKW a float.( the pumps only buy time and keep over wash out)
Replace placement bellows are old stock as are the parts for the Stalwart.
Rubber parts age.
A lot of the Russian wheeled amphibious stuff has very low free board and again have design features that rely on rubber seals etc.
The point I am making most of the amphibious military vehicles , yes can swim, but were new , had a large government founded workshop servicing them and operators wear life jackets etc.
It has always been a marginal thing and is more difficult as the vehicle ages and replacement parts dry up.
A simple servicing plug left lose or out is another danger.
A classic for a stalwart is if the drop sides or tailgate was locked incorrectly or the simple thing of beening side tracked and not checking something.
The LARC is better with sealing , but is more boat than vehicle and has compromises on land.
Every second Corowa swim in sees a GPA or something else get filled with water( usually only the worse for wear and everyone safe).
In the Pacific a lot of DUKWs were lost though incorrect operation on water/ overloading/ overlooked hull sealing or simply swamped with rough conditions.
I should be noted during the last years of the Stalwarts service life in a effort to reduce maintance costs of these vehicles the swimming gear was removed so they could not be swum.
The stalwarts compromise is it started as a family of vehicles never designed to be amphibious or load carrying and has things like a winch and its controls sort off sitting under water.
Salt water operation would kill a Stalwart if done regularly and is the reason why the Aust gold coast stalwarts died , that and operation all the time on hard roads twisting around the gold coasts back streets.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1245.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/imagesCA736J6S_zps563db211.jpg.html)

RIP:o:o:o:o:o:o:o:o:o:o:o

[THE BOOGER]

That's nothing longer snorkel couldn't fix and it would drive out:D

[101 Ron]

Well I have learnt a lot.
Again I learnt with the right tools and know how the Stalwart is straight forward to repair.
I now know a wheel station can be quickly changed in the field and take about 3/4 of a hour to swap one over with every thing going for you.
If the vehicle is old and a pin or tie rod end doesn't want to shift, then its a different story.
The first pic shows the wedge in the torsion bar stop and me wrongly trying to use a bolt to pull the outer housing of the inner tracta joint/ bevel box.
Luckly I didn't try too hard to remove it.
Looking at the workshop drawings etc it is hard to understand the set up.
What I knew was the inner tracta joint ball had a adjustment and I couldn't workout or understand how sidewards movement was allowed for in the tracta joint assembles as they are radius differently from the wisbones.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1225.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zpsfe193efd.jpg.html)
Bottom wishbone pin removed, the slide hammer worked a treat.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1226.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps835bd271.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The whole thing is hanging off the top wish bone which is locked with the wedges.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1221.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps751e8f26.jpg.html)
The seals for the wishbone pin is just easy to get O rings and the way its done so the spacer which holds the O rings will sit in place making refitting easy.
I took the weight on a forklift fitted with a long Jib.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1222.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zps33001ad4.jpg.html)
and then knocked out the top pin.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1223.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zps648ef1bf.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Top pin removed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1219.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/007_zps43c1f48e.jpg.html)
I carefully tried to lever out the inner tracta joint seal assembly
To my suprize the the seal housing just slides out........nothing needs to be undone.
It comes out as a great bronze round slug.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1220.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/006_zps07c7f9db.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Its out.
Easy when you know how.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1218.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zps2b5119d6.jpg.html)
I can see this being replaced in the field as a assembly to save stuffing around.
This is the inner tracta joint on the vehicle.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1014.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/009_zpsbe7aa3d0.jpg.html)

Note I didn't need to undo the bolts around the housing and It would have been better if I had left them alone.

[101 Ron]

What happens is the ball that protects the tracta and keeps it oil tight is adjustable for wear, but the whole big bronze assembly can slide a small amount side ways in the bore of the inner tracta joint housing for allow for different radius of the wishbones and drive shafts.
To seal the big bronze sliding assembly for oil leaks to the out side world is a cork sealing ring.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1216.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/010_zps4165e1db.jpg.html)
The pic is showing the cork sealing ring which is normally on the bottom side of the inner tracta joint housing.
If you look carefully you can see it doesn't join correctly and will allow oil though.
I guess the cork has shrinked a bit or cut too short when fitted.
This cork sealing ring is leaking and not the ball/C/V housing seal.
Note the two small scratch marks.....they were not placed there my me.
Note the threaded ring to adjust the ball of the tracta joint.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1217.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/011_zps29791f04.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

To separate the inner and outer halves of the shafts of the inner and outer tracta joint four bolts are removed and two brass plugs.
The plugs give access to a pin and a retaining clip.
The clip is moved to one side with a screw driver and the pin driven out.
the two halves will separate.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1214.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/013_zps734b05ae.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1215.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/014_zps8843e221.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The 330 miles on the speedo is looking correct as there is no wear in anything.
Also a supprize is the lack of backlash in the tracta joints, hub reduction and bevel boxes......almost none in fact..............not like a transmission of a Landrover at all.
I will get the trolley jack holder of the wheel station assembly done and finished correctly as it will be easier to refit it using a trolley jack than a forklift when working by ones self.

The next pic is the caliper and backing plate getting a lick of paint.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1211.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/015_zpsca4f2b0b.jpg.html)

All easy now that I have done it.
I will not most likely touch the outer tracta joint seals as it may do more damage pulling it a part than good and I am thinking that way for the shock and rebound units on the upper wish bone.

[101 Ron]

I have laid out these pics so others may follow for I found confusing the lay out of it until I done it.
I know a bloke called Aussie is playing with a Saladin which is in a bad way and is doing the same job on all six stations currently.
I hope this helps........sign in and say goodday.
Have to chase that cork seal now.
Ron

[DasLandRoverMan]

Once again very interesting Ron, and highlights just how well engineered these things were in the first place.

It seems the only real complication is the size/weight of everything. If you have the appropriate special tools (wedges etc) and some reasonable lifting gear then it could almost be seen as pleaseant to work on?

Awaiting the next update with interest.

[chazza]

Have to chase that cork seal now.
Ron

Interesting work Ron; thank you for showing us all.

You should be able to make the seal with some cork gasketing; it can be glued together with Araldite to get the desired thickness.

If you have a lathe the cork can be glued to a wooden face plate such as MDF and a craft knife clamped in the turret; the prescribed diameters can then be measured and cut. A few dobs of hot glue in the centre of the cork should hold it, while the bit you want is cut free. A similar procedure works superbly when making felt seals and bushes.

If you don't have a lathe a fly-cutter in a drill press would work as well, but is not as safe a procedure,

Cheers Charlie

[amazing]

great pics Ron. keep em comin'

[Lotz-A-Landies]

...This is the inner tracta joint on the vehicle.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1014.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/009_zpsbe7aa3d0.jpg.html)

Note I didn't need to undo the bolts around the housing and It would have been better if I had left them alone.Wow, it's an 80" Landy after all! :o :angel:

[101 Ron]

Tim Vibert has Saracen cork seals for 15 dollars each...........I hope they are the right ones.
He has other special seals I need , but are at a price.
Over seas shopping on some parts is much cheaper but takes longer.
After work today I cleaned up that big bronze housing for that inner tracta joint and ball seal.
It is a work of art the machining involved and no wear found in any part.
I have plenty of work now just sorting the seals and repainting etc.
It is interesting to see how exactly how a tracta joint works.
There is no wear or marks on the tracta joint forks...........all that means I have a really tight ship mechanically.

[101 Ron]

I have never played with tracta joints before, usually in Four wheel drive front axles I come across the normal C/V joint with the cups and balls of what ever type it may be.
Alvis when designing the drive looked at double carden joints and the normal ball and cup type C/Vs.
They settled on the tracta joint because of its compact size was the only design to fit in where space was limited.
Alvis had front wheel drive sports cars in the 1920s using tracta joints and had much experience in using them.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

They must have been used in a number of Brit vehicles during the war as they were used in the original design of the 80".

I have never seen much wear in them or even a broken tracta joint, usually it is the axle spline that breaks (if at all). I guess the cost factor must have been the reason for the change to regular spicer joint, that and they changed from constant 4WD to selectable 2WD/4WD so the constant velocity tractor joints weren't needed.

[101 Ron]

Restoration Ozzie Saladin - Page 5 (http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?33045-Ozzie-Saladin/page5)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/721.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps92f0a1e4.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/722.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zpsf3b73b4a.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/723.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zpsf5e2aa8f.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/724.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zps28d1fee1.jpg.html)

[spongie]

That last pic looks gorgeous!!! Fresh paint or even does wonders

[101 Ron]

It should be getting the green today.
The hull is getting needle gunned around where that wheel station goes.
Parts are on the way and appear to be advailable locally.( I hope they fit)
The hull is covered in about Ten layers of thick and flaking paint with abit of surface rust underneath thrown in.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/685.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/017_zpsc2dc29b6.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/686.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/018_zps1566fdd1.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/687.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/019_zps61efa36f.jpg.html)

[amazing]

hey Ron,
what the bolted plate for?( look like it's held on withtwo 1/2" bolts) next to the large castellated nut with the spit pin. I have seen it from a few angles but cant place its use.
is it just belt and braces to hold two part together?


just curious

[101 Ron]

The steel casting is in two pieces and is bolted together..........I figure this is so the kingpin bearings can be separated from the tracta joint housing pins for the kingpin bearings.
Those bolts holding it together are at least 3/4 ,,, may be one inch thick
Smaller plates on the sides I have no idea what they are for or if anything is behind them.

[DasLandRoverMan]

This popped up on facebooks and I thought it worth sharing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/629.jpg

Not at all complicated?

[101 Ron]

Received some parts today.
These are new rubber boots for the torsion bars
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/492.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps8155947d.jpg.html)
Next is three seals.
The large one is the tracta joint ball seal
The medium one is a hub seal for the hub reductions.( I think it is ??????)
The small one is a seal that goes in the drive shaft between inner and out tracta joints to stop oil transfer across the Two.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/493.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zps6656c78b.jpg.html)
These are shock/rebound bushes ?????
and special pinbolts that lock the wishbone shafts to stop them rotating with suspension movement(they tend to break or shear if the suspension is dry.)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/494.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zps7448a603.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

New cork inner tracta joint seals
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/486.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/007_zps13ee65e7.jpg.html)
Removing and fitting new seal between tracta joints.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/487.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps0f4fcad7.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/488.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/010_zps740b0893.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/489.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/016_zps9d568fba.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/490.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/017_zps225348ca.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/491.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zpsf60ead44.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Fitted new inner tracta ball seal, rubber boot and cork seal.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/483.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/009_zpsc1fbedf9.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/484.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/018_zps124180b9.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/485.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/019_zpsffcf2f87.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

This is the ball of the outer tracta joint with boot removed.
I am waiting on seals( the same seal for the inner tracta joint ball)
It is a slightly different set up to the inner tracta as the ball must move in Four directions rather than Two.
I will have to do some reading up before I pull it apart.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/480.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/013_zpsd3a698af.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/481.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/012_zps18cd8eff.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/482.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/011_zps2dac0c86.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Parts supplied are for a Saracen as their is no stalwart parts in Australia.
Some parts are different.
I have these boots that don't fit on the stalwart
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/477.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zpsce6444f3.jpg.html)
The type and arrangement of the sealing of the wish bone pins appear to be different.with the stalwart items being a recessed design to hold the O rings and the Saracen using a simpler washer design with a bevel.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/478.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/014_zps66eb53d6.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/479.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/015_zps4de8fb01.jpg.html)
All the parts are marked being packed between 1982 and 1985.
The good news is everything I needed that matters is advailable in Australia by ordering Saracen parts which generally 80% of the time fits.
I am running out of money again as I need to buy paint and stuff.
X mas coming up too, so I expect things to slow up again especially with the weather now getting hot.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Ron

If you have parts for Saracen/Saladin that don't fit the Stalwart, let me know. As you are aware our club has 2 Saracen and a Saladin in the Sydney basin, so better to pass the parts on. Can refund your costs if you like.

BTW: I'm down for my neice's wedding on the weekend.

Diana

[101 Ron]

If this thing was a Saracen APC sealing of all the suspension and tracta joints etc ,wouldnt be a big deal providing the parts don't leak oil.
Being a Stalwart...ie swimming all this is going to be important to keep water out of the expensive turning bits.
If all the seals are working correctly water shouldn't enter the tractas and hubs, but if it does it means all the oils will need to be changed after swimming........there is a lot of oil involved if you include the central lube tank.
The problem is to do all Six wheel stations with new seals, clean, chip everything and repaint etc will take a lot of my limited time.
The Five others are not leaking much at all, if any..........leaving me with a gamble of do I or don't I.
I am getting in time parts to reseal all Six wheel stations.
Still no wear found in any part, just old aged rubber parts.
The wheel station I have been working has been apart before( they were not too kind) and resealed and why it is leaking , because they cut that inner tracta housing cork seal too short.
I am guessing it was part of timed regular army maintance.
Pity they stored them out in the weather to rust away.
The hulling patching to keep the vehicle water tight appears to been done over along period of time with early patches stick welded(army) and later ones MIG welded( Civie owners ????).

[101 Ron]

If you want to know what water does to the turning bits of these vehicles look at this site.
Restoration Ozzie Saladin - Page 6 (http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?33045-Ozzie-Saladin/page6)
That Saladin was used by a previous owner as a paddock basher on a farm and we know what farmers are like with high tech machinery and greasing things.
That Saladin most likely has only been driven though mud holes ....they cannot swim.

PS .........note the brakes on the Saladin
They are a one off design by the British army design board and are a very early type of disc brake sort of.
They are called a ring brake with a ring fitted to the inside of a drum arrangement......they where a design dead end as they cannot dissapate heat any better that a drum brake.
The stalwarts disc brakes where the first modern disc brake system ever fitted to a production truck( Hydraulic/4 pot caliper design)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/234.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps160cbf18.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/235.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zpsf7dde9cd.jpg.html)
The above in the back ground shows a patch and rust holes etc which need to be sorted out at a later date.
The good news is I have picked up a 2.4mtr guillotine ( heavy duty John Heine) and pan brake folder of 2.4 mtrs.
They are both large heavy duty and I don't know how I am going fit them in my tiny workshop.
I don't know much about a pan brake, but with the guillotine will round out all my metalworking gear.
I all ready have power hacksaw, MIG,TIG and Plasma.

[Sitec]

Someone else has had a busy weekend! Looking good!! The Guilo and folder will be handy! I have a 4' folder and use it a lot. :)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Ron

I popped around to the workshop on Saturday, but no one in. Maybe next time I'm down.

Diana

[101 Ron]

I had to mow the lawn and help the Missus with the shopping on Saturday.
So I did a bit of work on Sunday.
Today I got the rest of the tracta joint ball seals.
I removed the outer tracta joint ball.
The socket for it is mostly steel and has a smaller surface area.
The ball is adjusted by shims.
The bronze part of the socket which holds the seal has a track around it for oil/grease to flow from top to bottom kingpin and lower wishbone bushes.
removal and fitting is more difficult because of the need to work though the middle of the casting that joints top and bottom wish bone bushes.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/162.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ipodphotos010_zps4fe7b473.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/163.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ipodphotos011_zps6e6a611c.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/164.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ipodphotos012_zps652b4840.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/158.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/ipodphotos008_zps9e5a5aea.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/159.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ipodphotos013_zps1633d8d9.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/160.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/ipodphotos014_zps9a87ecf6.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/161.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/ipodphotos015_zps7d518209.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

My Two new toys to cut and fold some sheet metal for the Stalwart.( and other things...rusty Wiles Senior cooker in the pipe line )
I picked them up at a good price (deceased estate).
Just got to learn how to use a pan brake.
Still got to find a cost effective way to get them to work.
The guillotine alone is over 2500kg
All is in very good working order.
I badly lack the room for them.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/157.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/ipodphotos001_zps49d9ecdf.jpg.html)
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/ron%203/ipodphotos003_zpse9794d53.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/ipodphotos003_zpse9794d53.jpg.html)

[Homestar]

Nice bits of machinery!

You need to find someone with a forklift....:angel::wasntme:

[DasLandRoverMan]

Jealous.

A good reason to have an Atlas crane on the Stolly?

[101 Ron]

Jealous.

A good reason to have an Atlas crane on the Stolly?

I though about the stalwart, but the cops might get up set about it going down the road on 5 feet instead of 6 in its current condition, and I suspect I am going to need a crane with a far longer reach to get that guillotine out of the shed end ways.

[101 Ron]

Amphibious Truck 6x6 Alvis Stalwart 2 in action - YouTube

[Mick_Marsh]

That's someonelses video. Notice the watermark in the top rh corner has been edited out.

Are you going to set up an obstacle course like that and offer joyrides?
Would be fun.

[bobslandies]

Hi Ron,

On a larger block but just like the day you took Diana and I for the run around the hilly wasteland. Front wheels right off the ground!

Your monster is coming on well.

Bob

[101 Ron]

In that vid they dropped very bit of weight they could.
No swim gear, no plates to close off the back of the cabin,no heavy pto bevel boxes,no floor plates and bracing and most likely no winch.
The big gap in ratios between 1st gear and 2nd gear is still a problem even with a tonne or Two weight cut off the vehicle.
It will crawl slowly, or go faster but run out of poke in 2nd.
You cannot get across the gearbox fast enough to drop down into first quickly from 2nd..............and that's where a preselector gearbox on the other Alvis 6x6 vehicles is much better.
Just about ready to refit that wheel station.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/93.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/ipodphotos001_zpsf19b38c9.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/94.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/ipodphotos002_zpsa91b4d49.jpg.html)
I have the pins out for the lower shocker pivots.
Its all a bit dry, but luckly still no wear.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Cool video, I suspect it would be even better with sound?

[101 Ron]

I have been busy with work and its now the hot part of the year so after knock off time I don't feel like working on the Stalwart so nothing has been done to it.
The stalwart sits out side in the sun.
The wheel station is waiting for me to refit it , the cradle is finished to refit the wheel station.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/312.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps801d28d8.jpg.html)
X mas is has caught up with me and I have a lot of work to knock over at the farm during the X mas break........if you can call it that, as I am on stand by at all times in case one of my hire forklifts breaks down.
I will up date in the new year.
I now have a goal as the AMVCS is having a rallie at the family farm on the June long weekend next year and the stalwart would be a lot of fun there.
It is also within reach to drive the stalwart under is own steam to the farm.
At current rate of progress it is going to be tight.
I leave a few of my favorate stalwart photos.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/310.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/28-11-06080_zps8e5ffb99.jpg.html)

Note the ships bell above pic and the hubs appear to be out of alignment indicating trouble with the drive system.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/311.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/28020at20Rock20Bottom_zps2ca676a8.jpg.html)

Stopping off for a quick brew.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/308.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/imagesCA4QX7FC_zps8bb5e9e7.jpg.html)

Bulk refuelling pack fitted above pic


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/309.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/28-11-06109_zps3ef62b09.jpg.html)

The bloke on the right needs a bra????????

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/306.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Alvis20FV60020019_zps73697427.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/307.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Alvis20FV60020020_zpsaf950268.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/303.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Landeds_zps7b7eab24.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/304.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Alvis20FV60020017_zpscdf837a0.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/305.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/9201338006_5d6bc8742e_m_zps3d12e227.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Been getting back into the swing of things as I have had afew days of cooler weather.
The alloy wheel has been needled gunned ready for under coat.
Much Time has been spent degreasing and needle gunning around the suspension.
Should be ready for undercoat tomorrow.
The shockers and rebound units are in good nick .but the pivots were very dry.
The maintance book is abit confussing about how to lube the suspension.
To correctly lube the shock lower pivot pins oil is injected in another part of the suspension and a breather plug must be removed which is hard to find and I guess not done and why it had dry shock pins.
The shock/rebound pivot oil seals are O rings and naturally they are stuffed and will be replaced.
I wouldn't have known about removing the little plug if I had not pulled things apart.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1168.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps60ca0e98.jpg.html)
Even with a full alloy wheel I can only just pick up one edge of the wheel and tyre to flip it over..........I am getting too old ???
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1169.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zpsad5860a5.jpg.html)
Ready for paint.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1170.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zpsa416d023.jpg.html)
That well hidden plug to let air escape for lubrication.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1171.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zpsbee2f9cc.jpg.html)
The one shock I removed ready for paint..............the others are OK and too much work to completely removed them..........the lower pin O rings can be replaced on the vehicle.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1159.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/stollynewsiow_zps5e613819.jpg.html)

[Sitec]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1159.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/stollynewsiow_zps5e613819.jpg.html)

Neat.. Did he ever complete his challenge?

[101 Ron]

Neat.. Did he ever complete his challenge?

I understand he made it 3/4s of the way around.
That stalwart with a Extended cabin I think is now in Canada.
The same person with another stalwart recently has planned exactly the same trip around the island ............I have not heard of the out come.
Planning of it takes abit of work.............it is a busy shipping lane in some areas and if the trip doesn't go well you need a escape plan ...........English channel weather, permission from various departments, currents, sandbanks etc.
The Stalwart would be very hard for ships to see and it wouldn't be able to move out of the way quickly for high speed ferries...........radio would be needed etc.
A reliable story is a unhappy soldier in the British army stationed in Germany stole a Stalwart and did a trip home by driving though France.
At the channel he swum the stalwart heading for Britian.
During the voyage the stalwart was low on fuel or had a mechanical
problem and he had to make for one of the channel islands.
Whisle on the island word got out and the soldier was arrested.
No stalwart has yet crossed the channel completely, but it has been done many times by DUKWs and that trip takes about 6 to 7 hours.
DUKWs Cross English Channel - YouTube

A pic of the Stalwart which tried the Isle of wight in 1994.........it didn't make the intended trip completely due to a blocked fuel line and had to pull up at a beach.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1157.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/432173_10150566850316431_1087093960_n_zps4c62c83d. jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1147.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps5ec3a426.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1148.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zpsef774cd6.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1149.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zps085d7f1e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1150.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zpsf140efd7.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1151.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zpsa2f294d5.jpg.html)
I have run out of paint and it will be about 2 weeks before I can rise some money for more paint and refit the wheel station.

[windhoist]

Hello ron brillant job your doing on the stolly!
Like to get in contact with you.
Me and my father have two stollys back in ireland mrk1 and mrk2. There on you tube.
Find one under alvis stalwart drive by.
Im interest in importing one into australia.

[101 Ron]

Hello ron brillant job your doing on the stolly!
Like to get in contact with you.
Me and my father have two stollys back in ireland mrk1 and mrk2. There on you tube.
Find one under alvis stalwart drive by.
Im interest in importing one into australia.

One Stolly here is most likely still for sale (a MK2 with crane, with swim gear)and would be much cheaper than importing one which I understand to be much harder now.
Getting any stolly legal on the Australian road system is a grey area and depends on where you live in this country and how you handle the government departments.
If you want to talk to me use the PM service on this site.
My progress is .........currently I finished painting where I want to paint, but very hot weather(the vehicle is located out doors)and more health problems is holding me up.
My current problem is getting the tracta joint home in its housing.......I could be missing a step or trick in reassembly.
I have also done and worked out a modification for the front shock absorber pins for better lubrication as standard they are a bit lacking.
Ron

[101 Ron]

Well I am not happy.......I have stuffed up somehow.
Trying to refit the wheel station I found the hull tracta joint is 90 degrees out of wack to the wheel station side of the tracta
To top it off I decided to try and separate the splined coupling and pins whisle everything was hanging on the side of the truck and damaged a pin retaining wire clip.
Gettting a new wire clip will take some time as will pulling everything part on the bench and finding the problem........all 200 kg of it.
I cannot think how it is possible to be 90 degrees out of alignment with the set up especially as everything was marked and centre popped.
Back to the grind stone.......humble and still learning army truck nut.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

<snip>...
No stalwart has yet crossed the channel completely, but it has been done many times by DUKWs and that trip takes about 6 to 7 hours.
...<snip>]Is that saying something about the ability of Stollys or the DUKWs?

Or just that there were far more DUKW to start with?

No Stolly has ever motored from Callala Bay to Murray's Beach Boat ramp, perhaps that could be your first challenge! If you have problems you could come ashore at any number of beaches, from Huskisson to HMAS Creswell.

[windhoist]

This is one of our stollies thought you might be interested. Have you got the drawings of the hubs ? Been a year or two since we had our drives split.

[101 Ron]

Yes I have everything I need except for first hand experience of doing one of these things.
I am waiting on some of the special small O rings and new wire retaining clips and splined coller knock in pins.
I don't want to reuse them a third time.
For the life of me I cannot understand how I could get the tracta dogs 90 degrees out of phase, I could have refitted the thing , but the hub oil plugs would have been out of line.
The splined coller must be timed to the pin holes that holds the shafts.
It must be the outer tracta joint, but it shouldn't fit up at all if 90 degrees out on the drive dogs, just like the inner one on the hull wouldn't.
The hub reduction gears were not touched.
I will find out soon I guess when I strip it down again.
The joys of working on old over engineered trucks.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/828.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSC00901_zps80b5d786.jpg.html)
The tracta forks faces should be inline as per the above picture but mine are not.
The splines on the short coller between the inner and outer tracta can only go 180 degrees out of phase which doesn't matter at all because of pins going though them not shown well in picture.

[Ancient Mariner]

On SBS 1 at 6 tonight .Lakes with Rory Mcgrath there was a couple of minutes I just caught on a stalwart ? some other anfibs even think I seen a land rover
unfortunately the stalwart ? had to be towed due to breakdown:(

AM

[marting]

Hi Ron

I have been following your thread with great interest. My dad makes models in his spare time. When my brother and I were kids he made a DUKW for my brother and Stalwart for myself.
I have attached a few pictures of the Stalwart. It is made out of aluminium, is 1/10th scale has fully articulating suspension and floats. As kids my brother and I spent many great days in creeks with these trucks.
It is now enjoyed by my kids.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/882.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/883.jpg


Good luck with the build and keep up the good work!

Cheers, Martin

[101 Ron]

For a couple of days only on SBS catch up site.
Look after about 8 mins and then again at 14 mins.
SBS On Demand | TV and Online Video - The Lakes With Rory McGrath Ep10 - Amphibious Vehicles On Tour (http://www.sbs.com.au/ondemand/video/136072259739/The-Lakes-With-Rory-McGrath-Amphibious-Vehicles-On-Tour)

[101 Ron]

The things we learn the hard way.
Each side of a stalwarts wheels are timed to each other.....ie the drain plugs on the hubs must be all pointing the same way.
I found on refitting one wheel station I could not refit it unless the drain plug on the hub/wheel station I was fitting was 90 degrees out of phase.
The way the splines between the tracta and tracta joints work they must be aligned certain way too.
The answer was easy during refitting if I knew.
The hub reduction ratio is 4.125
All I had to do was keep spinning the hub around and sooner or later the dogs on the tracta joint and hub drain plug would have lined up.
The following pics is the inner tracta joint apart in the workshop.
Each pic is taken exactly one turn on the hub.........note the different positions of the dogs on the tracta joint.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/832.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps23504000.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/831.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zpsfc1a902a.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/830.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/006_zpsa473e4a8.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/829.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zps84c272b1.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/828.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSC00901_zps80b5d786.jpg.html)

Some boffin can work out how many turns of a ratio of 4.125 you need to get though all the different positions and get back to the first postion.
I am waiting on some special wire clips to reassemble the thing again.
Saracen items are the same, the stalwart does have extra sealing O rings in the housings etc to keep things more water tight.
I have with a bit of difficultly been able to find them in Australia.
The other thing I am learning is to reassemble the tracta joint dogs takes a little bit of luck as there is only a few thou clearance between the side faces of the dogs and therefore getting the dogs to mate together inside a sealed housing is tricky especially when they tend to move about bit when fitting.
....Ron

[101 Ron]

The stalwart has become very close to being scrapped or a match lit in its 450 litre fuel tank.
The latest progress report is I have my RHS front wheel station back on.
I has taken me at least 3 full work days to fit it.
Everything that could go wrong or I could stuff up happened.
One problem is I have no help in doing things and bleeding brakes and moving heavy stuff into place is really a two man job.
No matter how I tried I could not refit the inner tracta joint with out the dog inside turning and flipping its self side ways out of alignment.
What I did do is split the drive between the two tracta joints fit the inner one which is much easier without the whole 200 kg of wheel station hanging on it.
Then all I needed to do was time and line up the splines etc........should be easier ....right ?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/182.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zpsac3d8d4e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/183.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/006_zpsf983f1a3.jpg.html)

The answer is no, as the inner tracta joint and shaft with splines has end float which stops the locking pin hole from lining up.
It took about ten tries moving the wheel station in and out of the splines and suspension pins etc to figure all this out.
Everything possible fought me to put it back together.
I did learn a lot.............next time I will pack the inner tacta joint with thick grease to hold the drive dog in the correct position or use match sticks or something to hold it .

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/179.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zps6f1a156b.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/180.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/007_zps139a6137.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/181.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zpsc55b298d.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/178.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/009_zps62be48cc.jpg.html)

I am behind my time table to sort the vehicle for a run on the Queens birthday weekend.
While the central lube tank is empty I need to replace all the hoses running the rest of the wheel stations..........still a reasonable sort of a job because the disc calipers have to be removed to access the the hose clamp on the wheel station.
I want to hand fill the oil levels as well so I know that Oil dag additive is in the hub and tracta joints.
I still need to check wheel alignment( not straight forward like a normal car or truck), clutch adjustment/measurement and possible removal of half life washers and lots of other small stuff.
I want to chip back lose paint on the suspension and left hand side of the hull and also carry out a mod to the shockasorber pivot pins for better lube like I have done on the RHS.
Ron

[101 Ron]

At least the stalwart is driveable again on all six feet.


Here is some more stuff from a Alvis brochure.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/173.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Alvis20FV60020012_zps0092ef9e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/174.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Alvis20FV60020021_zps16054128.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/175.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Alvis20FV60020013_zpsc99edbd5.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/176.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Alvis20FV60020023_zps3a9a6a97.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/177.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Alvis20FV60020022_zpse1a5a398.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/169.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Alvis20FV60020025_zpscede5d3e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/170.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Alvis20FV60020024_zpsf8225e73.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/171.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Alvis20FV60020027_zpsd8e43d90.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/172.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Alvis20FV60020028_zps1159f824.jpg.html)

[slug_burner]

Sounds like a good dollop of thick grease would have helped with holding the joint in place, even if you had to use some cotton to tie it in and prevent it from falling out. Well it is done now.

It is a big vehicle and you have made a lot of progress. I hope that your target date is still achievable. If not there is always next year.

Just a bit too far away for us southerners to drop in for an afternoon of help with an extra set of hands. Have you got a men's shed local to you? You need some volunteers to come and give you a hand with those things like bleeding the brakes. How about the scouts? I know they will do clean up and things like that but maybe they can roster a helper for you every weekend!

[101 Ron]

Ok it is time for another progress report.

I want to drive the big lump of the thing and have some fun, but money and common sense tells me while I have the central lube tank drained to replace the oil/breather hoses to the other wheel stations .
So I removed the brake caliper and wheel etc from the next wheel station along the hull( RHS centre).
I noticed the hydraulic brake hose is due for replacing and got one made up, it shares the same hose support bracket bolts as the oilsupply/breather hose.
I notice the rust and paint flaking off.
No quick way to get the machine moving is planned now.
To do so would waste a bit of my time later on and cost me about 20 litres of gear oil at $7.00 dollars a litre, only having to drain it again to do other oil supply/breather hoses, bleed brakes etc.
I am now needle gunning the flaking paint around that area of the hull.
The work I have done on the RHS front looks great........so I will follow on .
I have fitted some new rubber boots to the suspension to keep it water proof.
Needle gunning is a slow process, but it costs little and the vehicle is located in a industrial area , so noise is not too much of a problem.
The needle gun is easier on the air compressor and makes far less mess than sand blasting, wire wheel or paint stripping.
This wheel station doesn't have to be removed, it is not leaking.
I have learnt I am not the only one to have problems refitting wheel stations back to the vehicle.
I have been told that the mechanic who worked on the Gold coast tourist stalwarts used to Arilidite the dogs of the tracta joints together to stop them moving when refitting.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/957.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/013_zps95fba3d8.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/958.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/012_zpsdbadfaae.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/954.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zpsffde20c4.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/955.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps13507fda.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/956.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zps56932fb5.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

New stainless steel pipe support brackets have been made to replace the old normal steel items.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/951.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zps358eb473.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/952.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zps4f193a74.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/953.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/007_zps7860460e.jpg.html)
Note the small cut aways in the hull so the centre wheels will not foul the hull when on full steering lock.
Note the various rubber boots used to seal the torsion bar and wish bones.

[101 Ron]

This picture shows the external transfercase oil filler and drain.
The vehicle is setup so oils and some other stuff can be done if the vehicle is loaded and the engine bay/cargo floor doors cannot be opened.
Note that top plug is the transfercase oil level, and how low down on the hull the transfercase must be.
The gearbox and transfercase is specially made items to suite the stalwart and keeps Cof G low despite the stalwarts height.
There is also fillers and dip sticks inside the hull if you want to check and fill unloaded.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/948.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zps8b3d918b.jpg.html)



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/949.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/009_zpsda0aba23.jpg.html)
Note the transport chain down loop on the lower hull.
A small stick is stopping all the brake oil from draining out of the brake system.
Note on the centre and rear suspension the shocker asorbers work on the lower wishbone and not the top wish bone as on the front.
Doing that creates more room in side the hull.

[101 Ron]

Been in a swimming MK1 stalwart down at Corowa on the Murray river.
Learnt lots of stuff.
I dont have good access to the internet to post Pics.
Will post pics when or if it can.
Ron

[iain reed]

hope you are all having fun down there wish i could be there but busy moving factory all the best to all :):):)

[101 Ron]

I have been learning lots about stalwarts at Corowa which is a yearly military vehicle event on the banks of the Murray river.
Graham who owns a Mk 1 stalwart has now driven his machine from Melbourne to Corowa and return for Three years running........a distance of I think?????? 250 miles each way.
His Stalwart is able to cruise at 60 mph with ease due to changes in standard gearing, inter wheel drive disconnects and LP Gas operation.
In fact Grahams stalwart has done over 4500 miles on Australian roads.
It is also Australias only active swimming stalwart.
Graham was giving rides in the stalwart swimming in both the lagoon and main river.
Graham in fact set me up .
I was in some good gear ready to go out of dinner and Graham rings, he was swimming the stalwart, so I race to the river and hopped in the passengers seat.
He gave the Stalwart a big run into the lagoon knowing full well I was going to get very wet with the hatches open.

[101 Ron]

Graham had a problem with the Stalwart in the lagoon with the fact he could swim it directly out of the lagoon to the river, while the smaller GPA amphibious jeeps could.
I swum the lagoon earlier that day and found the mouth of it about 5 ft deep and the bottom covered in very soft leaf litter and two large long ruts where Graham had tried to drive / swim though earlier.
Graham tried again while I was on board.
he had problems with steering and lack of thrust from the water jets at times.
One jet may work and the other not work causing a lost of steering control.
He never made it all the way though.
What was happening was spinning the wheels in the soft leaf litter bottom was blocking the intake ports of the water jets and spinning the wheels while the water jets are operating at low speed airates the water near the intake ports of the jets and the jets will loose grip with air in them.
This effect may happen on one only or both jets.
The stalwart was able to reverse out of trouble a few times.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/758.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/017_zps60bd9503.jpg.html)
This one below me getting wet with water going up and over.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/759.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/015_zpsb3c72c5b.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/760.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/011_zpsfa0a4a75.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/761.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/012_zpsef5b898b.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/754.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_0930_zpsbb72b47b.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/755.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_0931_zpsf8109ebb.jpg.html)
Graham has some unusual mods to his stalwart and this is one of them.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/756.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_0929_zps7070496b.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/757.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_0925_zpseb8f4d01.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The Stalwarts draft is I think just over 6 ft and the mouth of the lagoon 5ft or may less with a extremely soft goo bottom of fine matter.
These pics are the stalwart trying to reverse out using both wheels and jets
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/751.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_0924_zps1ad4bbed.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/752.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_0923_zpsf09087b8.jpg.html)
This is what was happening with the intake of the jet ports.
This one already had some debris wiped away and why the stalwart was loosing thrust and steering at times.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/753.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/022_zpscdf24578.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

When the Stalwart was driven into the main river the machine takes a little while to get to its normal water speed, as it takes a small amount of time for all the air to clear the water jets and for them to bite into the water.
The jets seem to clear themselves and work better the harder they are driven.
Recommending water operating RPMs are 3000 engine speed, but Graham was getting more go by going to 3500 RPMs.
The Water jets are different between a MK2 and MK1 stalwart.
The ones on mine are suppose to drive the machine at hull speed at 3000RPM with no increase in speed by reving harder.
The MK2s Stalwarts are suppose to be a little bit faster too.
I hope one day I will swim mine and find out.

[101 Ron]

This is another one of Grahams unusual mods.
Keep the kids busy by fitting a slippery dip and ramp to climb back up again.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/749.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/067_zps98e8d1f1.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

And a warning sign on the front screwed to the swim board.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/747.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/070_zpsfdece66b.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/748.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/071_zpscd082824.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

MK 1 Stalwarts were not fitted with a winch as produced.
Some winches were fitted by the army on a big clumsy metal frame under the bow in front and everything was exposed to water and the winch which resulted in a very poor approach angles
Mk 2 Stalwarts had winches fitted as standard behind the bow with the winch sitting in a under water air bubble( the winch usually gets wet anyhow)
Graham has fitted a winch to his MK 1 in a very clever way which should have been done at the factory as the winch doesn't get wet and is easy to get at.
He drilled a hole in the bow and welded a long metal tube at a angle from bow to middle of hull to just above the water line and mounted a electric winch in the middle of the hull.
The hook on the cable has a tapered alloy plug as a back up to plug the long pipe as a back up when not in use.
He is also using Dyneema rope which floats on water.
Also note the large LPG tank fitted in the hull.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/744.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/077_zps942bebbe.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/745.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/078_zps154c6bb6.jpg.html)

Note the bow with hook and plug retracted to seal it in pic below.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/746.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/068_zpsc8c90342.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The MK1 Stalwart has a totally different rear end so to speak than mine.
The design and shape is different.
The MK1s water jets have a feature which the later ones on mine do not as they while running will keep the bilges dry using a series of pipes and a ventri effect of the water jets themselves......very, very clever.

Preivously it was discussed on this thread that raising the the gearing on the Stalwart by 40 % would hurt off road performance or ability to climb out of the water.
I have personally seen Grahams stalwart from a standing start on the edge of the river just walk over a 2 ft vertical bank very smoothly with 20 people in the back.

I will show a series of pics I have taken of the Stalwart climbing a log and bank with a slow rolling start.
The bank in the pics is closer to 3 foot high and I got some one to stand beside the where the Stalwart climbed just for scale.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/740.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/105_zpsb71000f7.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/741.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/106_zpsd7fb7df2.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/742.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/107_zpsed2645ee.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/743.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/108_zpsbbc789a7.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/736.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/110_zps421e9687.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/737.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/111_zps741bc356.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/738.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/112_zps03e9512d.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/739.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/126_zps768c4e9a.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/730.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/128_zps740bced5.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/731.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/127_zps42ea0138.jpg.html)

Those pic should answer Wagoos question if a Stalwart can go over a 3 ft dia log, and this one climbed that with taller than standard gearing and people on board.
It says a lot about how soft and flexible the B81 rolls is when mated to a manual gearbox and how good that suspension is.

[Sitec]

I bet the last few days have really given you drive to keep going with yours!!! Great pics!! :)

[101 Ron]

Now how long is going to take me to get mine swimming ?????
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/728.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/135_zpsc4294b42.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/729.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/124_zps5b3be295.jpg.html)

Graham has a system on his Stalwart to pressurise the hubs and drive , which he does to 10 PSI, that should be even easier to do on mine with the central lube system.( MK1s don't have the central lube tank)
The air pressure is a back up to stop any water entering though seals to the expensive hub reductions or tracta joints.
When I realised Graham was going to climb up the river bank I was on board the Stalwart in the water with no camera, so the answer was simple, just jump over board from a moving, swimming stalwart, it is safe as there is no propellors in the water, swim ashore and find the camera and take the pics.
With so much hull under water the stalwart is very stable.
Ron

[TonyC]

Hi Ron,
I am in awe of the work you are achieving on yours.

Great pictures of this one swimming, they made me wonder what are the marine rego/licensing requirements for an amphibious vehicle?

Keep up the good work.

Tony

[101 Ron]

One other piece of information of value I learnt.
Graham had a problem of hot glass stop/tail light lenes cracking when they were hot and then hitting the cold water, cracking and therefore not water tight , drowning the globe.
The lens are hard to find.
Grahams answer is to use LED globes which produce much less heat.
I learnt so much from Graham
Thank you.

[101 Ron]

Hi Ron,
I am in awe of the work you are achieving on yours.

Great pictures of this one swimming, they made me wonder what are the marine rego/licensing requirements for an amphibious vehicle?

Keep up the good work.

Tony

I have checked this out.
The river it self is in NSW and therefore any vessel must comply with NSW laws.
The smaller GPA amphibious jeeps are under a certain length and speed and therefore require nothing special by law.
I will not go any further than that.
Everything can be done by the letter of the law if needed.
A interesting thing is the manufacturers rating of the Stalwart as a vessel in a MK 1 is 38 people/troops with rifles or 5 tons.......grey area ??? .

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/670.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/021_zps61ed1d97.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/671.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/013_zps26b05fe7.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/672.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/081_zps3a58997a.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/673.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/119_zpsf9232943.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/674.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/133_zps8e1b02df.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/675.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/131_zps10ad8b94.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/666.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/137_zps9205278f.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/667.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/138_zpsfa403498.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/668.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/140_zps1a9ccd66.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/669.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/014_zps43cf80ea.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

current status of my stalwart.
New rubber seals going on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/664.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zps14148ef8.jpg.html)
Under coat continues
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/665.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/006_zps8d1e9aca.jpg.html)

[spongie]

Looking good

[101 Ron]

Getting to this stage was a days worth of work.
Needle gunning and scraping old flaking paint is a slow process.
I cannot seem to find enough time to throw at this project.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/500.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps28f6c403.jpg.html)

[Sitec]

Personally I think you're doing very well!! Its a mammoth project, and from the outside looking in, it looks like you are going at quite a pace.... Look at the thread start date, and look at what you've already achieved in such little time, especially of late. Keep up the good but gruelling work! It'll be worth it in the end.. The smile on your face after you've taken your first swim will be massive!! :)

[101 Ron]

Details of Dowty water jet.
The impellor clears the housing with only a few thou to spare.
Only a single impeller and stator.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/107.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps64ab0359.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/108.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps92b99b6c.jpg.html)
This one is looking up the exit pipe at the stator.
One day I will have to reach up there with my arm and hand fully extended and fill a oil lube fitting.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/109.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zps29d345de.jpg.html)
Each water jet has about 1000lb/500kg static thrust.
The water jet housing is all alloy.

[101 Ron]

The water jet is just like a normal early water jet for a boat, but is turned on its side.
This is the protection grill for the water jet.........getting it ready to paint.
Both water jets push the Stalwart along at 6 knots....3000rpm engine speed which considering the amount of hull in the water ( 2mtrs) and 6 wheels and suspension, brakes etc is not too bad.........the hull does require a lot of push to do that 6 knots because its is short and blunt too.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/110.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zpsf90fbd7d.jpg.html)
This is as far as I got to day.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/111.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zpsc9dd57c7.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/112.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/006_zps1d4c70a0.jpg.html)

[fraser130]

Details of Dowty water jet.
The impellor clears the housing with only a few thou to spare.
Only a single impeller and stator.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/107.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps64ab0359.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/108.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps92b99b6c.jpg.html)
This one is looking up the exit pipe at the stator.
One day I will have to reach up there with my arm and hand fully extended and fill a oil lube fitting.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/109.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zps29d345de.jpg.html)
Each water jet has about 1000lb/500kg static thrust.
The water jet housing is all alloy.

Lovely piece of engineering.

[101 Ron]

All the advailable research I have suggest the Stalwart was the first amphibious vehicle to use water jets...........a Russian APC did use a ducted propeller system in the 1950s, but not a Dowty (Hamilton system under licence) type system and lead the way for jets to be used on other amphibious vehicles and the military in general
Water jets are well protected in both off road and marine enviroments
The Stalwart appears to have 2 other firsts
The use of modern caliper hydraulic disc brakes on a truck.( and its use on all wheels)
The use of a modern altenator in a truck. ( and a very good one at that and it is semi sealed against water and dust.
All the above was developed for the stalwart around 1960.
The stalwart was cutting edge in the early 1960s in many ways including its concept and why I wanted one.
The short wheel base and the off road angles the vehicle can find itself in off road wise is taken care of with the longish block of the straight 8 Rolls with the dry sump engine lubrication and two scavage pumps, one either end of the motor.

[fraser130]

Ron, if you get a chance, I'd love to see the reverse buckets for the jets, and how they operate.

Some job you are doing!:BigThumb:

Fraser

[101 Ron]

Ron, if you get a chance, I'd love to see the reverse buckets for the jets, and how they operate.

Some job you are doing!:BigThumb:

Fraser

The bucket set up used was designed by a bloke in the Alvis factory and is very simple, in fact a lot simpler than the Hamiton water jets of the time.
there are two levers in the cabin, one for each jet, so each jet is worked independently from the other bucket wise.
The Stalwart has no rudders like a DUKW or LARC amphibs.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1284.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0041_zps70d277b9.jpg.html)
A series of rods and bell cranks connect steering navigation levers to buckets, running the full length of the vehicle.

[101 Ron]

All these pics are for the port side jet.
Astern
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1282.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zps143556dc.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1283.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zpsf4e64ae1.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Turn to Port
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1280.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/006_zps561ce7f5.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1281.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zps19ea3c42.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Ahead
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1277.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/007_zps1593dbd0.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1278.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zps0335cbf9.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1279.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps7659e788.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1276.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0043_zps0a61104f.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

RHS jet grill in undercoat.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1275.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zpscf19f363.jpg.html)

The good news is I have this Stalwarts Army rego number.
90-ET-44
This will able me to trace its British army service history one day.

A Eight year owner of this stalwart has the missing cabin ID plate and some old pics of this machine.
All helpful in filling in the missing gaps in its history.
Ron

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Good news about the ID!

[101 Ron]

More good news is....... I have coming from the UK the rubber seals for the side and tail gates.......like rocking horse poo to find.
I was toying with the idea of getting dies made locally at great cost and having the rubber sections made here.
Buying them should save me money, but they are not cheap to buy as new/old stock either.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1237.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/_35_zps0f58dcf1.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1238.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/_12_zps66f80911.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

While I was scanning the operators book.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1228.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0044_zpsc2f8a498.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

And some more general stuff.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1223.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0054_zps62aaa3fe.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1224.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0053_zps98820ace.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1225.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0052_zps8058bf72.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1226.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0051_zpse5862337.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1227.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0050_zpsff82d6a5.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1220.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0049_zps4a147016.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1221.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0048_zpsc49a4f2b.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1222.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0047_zps40d34451.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1218.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0045_zps09668fea.jpg.html)



Lube tank for tracta / hubs and bevel boxes below
Note the pic also shows a double wall section of the hull
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1219.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/Scan0046_zpsd8d2ca77.jpg.html)

[THE BOOGER]

Hey Ron I believe you have converted your b81 to electronic ignition what kit did you use and did you take photos and what oil do you use in the fluid fly wheel and is it hard to get?:)

[101 Ron]

Hey Ron I believe you have converted your b81 to electronic ignition what kit did you use and did you take photos and what oil do you use in the fluid fly wheel and is it hard to get?:)

Check out page 20 of this thread.......the electronic kit cost about $350 dollars Aust when our dollar was good.
I installed mine so it is completely hidden unless you remove the dist cap.
It is the single most important and best improvement you can do to a B series Rolls.
Most breakdowns on the B series Rolls is the ignition system.( as is the back fire, miss fire and plug fouling)
Get rid of the suppressed plugs and fit civie plugs.........cheaper and another great improvement ( I now run 25 thou plug gap on protruded nose self cleaning plugs with fat blue spark , instead of 15 to 18 thou of the old system throwing a pale orange spark)
Check page 41 of this thread.

On page 19 of this thread check out a link to..... ignition matters.......It is a very good article about suppressed military ignition systems.
The Jolley Engineering electronic ignition will still work perfectly with the 24 volt boost while cranking as it was designed with the B series Rolls in mind.
The Stalwart doesn't use a preselector box or fluid flywheel......it uses a dual plate clutch and manual gearbox.

I don't know the exact spec for the fluid fly wheel oil.
I suspect ordinary ....thin viscosity hydraulic oil will work well.
Check this out with the Saracen blokes.
I do use in the Stalwarts brake, clutch, choke, steering and accelerator systems thin hydraulic oil.
general hydraulic oil in forklifts, excatvators etc is normally AWS 68...the 68 being the viscosity, so I use AWS 10......10 to 15 being the viscosity needed.
Any oil supplier can easily get or stock the thinner type hydraulic oils.
The hydraulic oils we have today surpast the very old specs of the 1950s.

[101 Ron]

Times said:


ATTEMPT TO DRIVE ACROSS CHANNEL

Hohne, Nov 23-
A Rhine Army trooper from Bristol who tried to cross the English Channel in an Army five-ton amphibious vehicle was sentenced to eight month’s detention here today. He was found Guilty of being absent without leave and three other charges.
He entered the water from Belgium but had to land near Calais, where he was detained.
A District Court Martial was told that Trooper Robin Wilfred Painter, 20 of the 11th Hussars, had planned to England after a 400-mile drive from his barracks at Hohne.
He then planned to cross the Irish Sea from Liverpool to Ireland where he had planned to ditch the stolen vehicle.

In a statement he was alleged to have made to the military police Painter said he took the vehicle on September 22 and set off to drive to Belgium. At the time he was under open arrest after a similar escapade in August when he drove a car to a Belgium base, where he surrendered after being absent for 24 days. Sentence is subject to confirmation.





From the Times Nov 24th 1965.
Got lost or it got too rough and wound back up on the French coast or island........reported in other papers too.....must be a true story.
The stalwart was taken from a base in Germany ????

[DasLandRoverMan]

Driving a Stolly from Germany to Ireland with single MPG figures?

It's a sound idea in principle, but even if you left camp with a full tank of fuel, how many stops would you need in the interim?
I know fuel was cheaper back then, but even so...

[101 Ron]

Range on a tank full of fuel is about 500 kms.
The weather this time of year is good and allows me to do a little bit after work on the stalwart .
That will very soon change.
Another alloy wheel getting the needle gun treatment.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/578.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/376_zpsd5de9729.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/579.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/372_zps31eceea2.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/580.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps72d298ba.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/581.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zps02cb1ea7.jpg.html)
just all boring stuff going on at present.
It is a slow process needle gunning the old flaking paint.

[101 Ron]

The needle gun is easy on the air compressor, gets the job done and is able to reach hard to get at spots.
I remove the lower pins for the shocks/rebound to allow access behind them.
I also drill out the centre of the lower shock pins right though and fabricate a stainless steel 3/8 UNF plug with a screw driver slot to screw into them.
This allows better lubrication of the pins and wish bones if need be.
I also replace a oil bleed out plug with a grease nipple so I can push lube which ever way I want to though the wish bones and shock pivots.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/577.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zpse1676024.jpg.html)
I have found on every wheel station so far, either blocked lube passages, missing lube bleed out plugs ect.
So it has been worth while to go though them and check things out.

[101 Ron]

I am also finding the shock pivot O ring seals have liquidified with old age as has a lot of other rubber stuff.
The O rings in the shock pivots are replaced as would be not possible for it to hold lube.
The standard lube was gear oil though the nipples and bleed out plugs.
Some people use grease as it stays where is should be longer ,especially with old seals, but I suspect the grease is too thick to get to some of the wearing surfaces.
I am having a two way bet by using steering box grease/semi fluid grease.

[amazing]

there is an access cover removed in a pic..is that where the mesh goes for the dowty intake?

as for lube Russian trucks often specify gear oil and grease together (gaz66 for example)

[101 Ron]

there is an access cover removed in a pic..is that where the mesh goes for the dowty intake?

as for lube Russian trucks often specify gear oil and grease together (gaz66 for example)

That's correct..... the protection grill is painted waiting to go back on.

I have new hydraulic brake hoses made ready for the rear wheel stations.
The fronts were done before I got the vehicle, so now all the brake hoses will be renewed.
I badly want get the other three wheel stations checked out and painted, get the oil from the central lube tank to the wheel stations and brake bleed so I can use and play with the vehicle.
I still have a wheel alignment issue and clutch adjustment to sort out.
I suspect the clutch needs the half life washers need to be removed.
All takes time to sort out.

[101 Ron]

One interesting discovery.
The Black oil dag( graphite ) stuff I added to the central lube tank worked its way though to every wheel station without being drained/bleed though.
I have read somewhere this is because the set up though heating and cooling pants/ or breaths when the vehicles is in use .
Think of it like over filling both diffs of your Landrover to the top via the small breather pipes and connecting the pipes together via tank.
You would not think oil would travel from one diff to the other but it does.
A side effect of this is when the vehicle is cold and the oil is thick and every gear housing totally filled with oil is great oil drag.........it takes many miles/KMs down the road before the vehicle frees up and warms the oil.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1051.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/012_zpsb62f7a7b.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1052.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/010_zpse945fc34.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1053.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/013_zpsc7910b07.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1054.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/014_zpsda48c378.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1049.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/011_zpsb6fc380d.jpg.html)
Note the rust hole which needs to be fixed in the above pic
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1050.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/015_zps26318030.jpg.html)
Back on all six wheels
Three done and another three to go.
I am going to refill the 38 litres of gear oil for the central lube tank and take the thing for a run before attacking the left hand side wheel stations for paint and problems.
I need to have a bit of fun in the thing.
Days are now short and cooler so I only have a 30 min period after work to do things on the beast before I run out of light.
Brakes still need to be bleed too.

[101 Ron]

I crawl under the vehicle only using the jack and no safety stands as it is no big deal as the vehicle will balance well if any wheel is removed.
another thing which may be of interest is so far all painting on this vehicle including the red oxide has been done with a small touch up spray gun.
The reason is I can only do things a bit at a time and only need to do small areas of the vehicle at one time.
The small spray gun allows better access to different parts of the vehicle.
I will when I think I have mostly finished the vehicle give it a final sand back on some of the roughest areas I have done and finish off every thing with a big spray gun all at the same time as one normally would.

[101 Ron]

Alvis Stalwart Group in the Lake's - YouTube


They are noisey riding in the back when afloat with the engine screwed up to 3000 RPM.

Taken from a MK 1 stalwart .......note the water bleed /bilge pouring over the side from the water jets which doesn't happen on a MK2 which relies totally on the hand and electric bilge pumps.
Mk 1s have a much simpler roof hatch locks and most likely a better set up.
I was thinking of where and how to fit a amber rotary safety light to the front of the vehicle...........this stalwart has a good idea of just using a magnetic one on the cabin wave deflector.....so simple..........still learning all the time.

[101 Ron]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4hhW5QVFdo

[101 Ron]

The above is me just giving the old girl a run after knock off time at work.
The oil leaks appeared to have stopped for the time been.
I now have a bad coolant leak from the heater core in the cabin.
The heater core leaking was expected as it was all disconnected when I got the Stalwart.
To drive the vehicle more I need to fix it next.
I could if I tried hard get the stalwart to the farm for a army truck rallie and off road adventure June long weekend.........I will play thing things safe.........always next year and I have plenty of other toys to take.
A vehicle like the Stalwart needs to be driven regularly to keep all the oil seals working and not dried out.
Heater core and then the next three wheel stations..........inspect, replace hoses and needle gun and paint.
I have found out the stalwart will gravity bleed its brakes given time.....handy when you have no one around to help.

[101 Ron]

Just a interesting fact is when manufactured, the weld length total of a Stalwart is over 1600 ft and CO2/MIG type welding was mostly used and was a new type of welding for the time in the UK.
I have conflicting information about the type of steel used.
The best so far is the prototypes were mild steel and then a ideal, but unusual steel called Cor-ten which works a bit like aluminium in that it gets a oxide coating on its surface and stops its self from rusting was used for a few early stalwarts.
Cor-ten was stopped being manufactured in the UK so most of the Stalwarts are made from BS968 steel which does have some problems with welding it correctly.
I think a bridge in Melbourne collapsed when the welds failed in cold weather using BS968 and stick welding.
MIG welding allowed different types of joints to be used to the previous Alvis vehicles saving time and money.
The stalwart has most likely something like a Hundred studs welded to the inside of the Hull to hold pipes and wiring looms etc done by a automatic surface gap stud welder.
The vehicle hull was welded in a rotating jig for access.
Oxy acetylene has been used on the roof hatch lock housings and some other small fittings thought out the vehicle.
Most pipes thought out the vehicle and a lot of other stuff has small silver plates stamped with a part number and that plate is soldered on to the part.

Ron

[chazza]

How cool does that engine sound? :D So much more fun than a poxy diesel!

Cheers Charlie

[101 Ron]

It doesn't sound too good in the cabin at present.
With the load area floor plates out the fan noise is dominate.
From out side the vehicle to people watching it sounds very cool.( exhaust noise)
The Rolls B81 is very quiet and smooth with the add ons making the noise.
With the floor plates out there is no forced air draught around the engine and the exhaust system becomes very hot and is another reason not to operate it for a long distance while I am still doing a lot of work on it.

[Hay Ewe]

Ron
I stumbled upon these 67 pages of this thread on saturday just gone and have steadily been working my way through the thread till this point.

Very admirable what you have accomplished so far.
I can see it has been a very demanding project for you, and continues to be, but as others have said, I am sure that when it is completed, you will stand back and grin, though that may take a while!

I have a little to add that may be of interest.

My father was in the British Army - in the Cavalry and they had Stalwarts or Stolly's for resupply of the Chieftains. As I saw earlier, HMLC - High Mobility Load Carries. Whether the regiment had them or the RLC or some other part of the army, I dont know.

He said that they would have a series of railway sleepers chained together that they would drive over in order to unwind the drive train. As I have learnt in this thread, not as necessary as thought.

I have only seen one reference too the white lines on the hubs. As you said, they were for checking the oil level. Dad said that they were for ensuring the hubs were all in-sync. Presumably related to the wind up of the drive train.

It seems to me that the Stalwart is a very over complicated piece of british equipment, not unusual I think. The difference is with this one and other vehicles of the similar familiar, they were surprisingly successful.

The lube of all the pivot pins and similar parts being oil and not grease. the very specific PSI of the tires and the diameter.

I think that there would be easier ways to set up the drive train and I am sure that the designers did consider alternates. I suspect they went with the way they did to reduce the number of THF (thru hull fittings), but it does seem overly complex.

I am impressed by the suspension system, supple enough to float over kerbs and the like yet rigid enough to lift the forklift with little roll.

I cant remember for sure but I would say between 1993 and 1996, just up the road from where I grew in the uk - about 40km away - was a dealer who purchased ex-MoD equipment. Dad an I went looking at Land Rovers and dad got all excited as there were 3 maybe 4 Stalwarts parked up in barn.
Keith Gott was the dealer Keith Gott Land Rovers (http://www.keithgott.co.uk/)
a quick look at the website shows they are still active but seem to only have LR now.

I did have a thought about your tire problem - availibility of them.
It may be possible to obtain some tires used on aircraft. Though there are many sizes and diameter is critical, it may be an alternative to save your bar treads.

If you send me the hub bead diameter, wheel bead width and out side diameter, I may be able to get some suggestions as to an alternative and what they are installed on. I hope that may help and contribute to your project. However the cost and sourcing another set of hubs may be cost prohibitive.

All the best with your project and I shall continue to follow this thread.

Hay Ewe

[101 Ron]

I have a full set of new tyres and tubes which I found, ready to fit.
I am not going to fit these as a set, but get the most out of the tyres already fitted by mixing them with the old ones.
To do that I have to get the drive disconnects fitted and working .
The Melbourne stalwart owner who drives his stalwart everywhere said to me the tyre wear was poor until he fitted inter wheel disconnects and on road performance improves.
I notice when driving mine the vehicle is more lively off road where it can get wheel slip easier.
All drive line failures I can track down are due too, incorrect fitting of parts, water in drive system , lack of lubrication and lack of oil via leaking oil seals.
Alvis did look at interwheel disconnects, via a fergerson viscus coupling, but costs and interchangeability with other Alvis models in service stopped this.
The Stalwart didn't get a diesel motor either because at the end of the day the Army was very happy with the vehicle the way it was.
It must be remembered the Stalwart was designed to follow a tank which doesn't spend any time on tarred roads and when it entered service petrol still ruled.
I am learning the B81 rolls is not your normal petrol engine,,,its designed to be tough.
The Stalwarts strength is as a amphibious vehicle, it has a very good off road ability in its own right ........more so than a DUKW or LARC.
I was was looking at a DUKW the other day and the DUKW is a bit better in the water than a stalwart, but the DUKWs long over hangs, and belly with rubber bellows around the tailshafts etc is more limiting than a stalwart off road.
DUKWs also bent propeller shafts if a driver is not carefull.

[101 Ron]

The stalwart had to use the existing production line of the armoured Saracen/Saladin/ and Salamander fire fighter
(the government of the day paid for the tooling and production equiptment of the production line and was the main purchaser of the stalwart)
The unusual drive line layout is needed in these vehicles, especially the Stalwart as it maximises the space inside the hull.
It was a follow on of a driveline and suspension set up from British armoured scout cars of WW2 which was very successful.
The useful amount of room inside the Stalwarts hull is something like 3 ft wide, 3ft high and 20 ft long.
It has in that space.....Large radiator and twin fan assy,straight 8 motor, dual plate clutch, gearbox, transfercase/diff, near 500 litre petrol tank, engine oil tank...20lts, a decent size hydraulic winch.
Add 2 water jets which are large and take up a lot of space, twin large Volks oil bath air filters, drive train for water jets of 2 large bevel boxes and a single PTO, large hydraulic pump, bilge pump, cross hull 20 plus litre oil tank for central lube system ,mountings for a truck crane,engine driven air compressor and 1.5 mtr long drive shaft , 2 large air over hydraulic brake servos, large across the hull hydraulic steering cylinder/recirulating ball steering set up,radiator air blast outlet, enough room for cool air to pass though the whole hull, the maze of wiring, hydraulic, air pipes and linkages, extremely large altenator, four bevel drive boxes for rear and front wheels with drive shafts.
All that fits in under the floor of the cargo area and cabin.
I wonder if it would be possible to do that with a normal drive train.

It is the engineering in the stalwart is the reason why they are worth restoring and preserving for the future and for the most part it all works well.
There will be no other vehicle like the stalwart made again.

The markings on the hubs are dual purpose....yes to indicate where the fill/drain plugs are as the vehicle must be driven with the plugs to top or bottom if you want to fill or drain.
They are a quick and easy indicator of drive line problems if the marks get out of step to each other.
My current status is I am leaving the Stalwart mobile and running for a little while as I have other things going on and I am having a little bit of needed fun driving it around.
The spare wheel has been needle gunned and painted and done a bit more of the same on the LHS of the hull.

This thread is giving the drive to keep chipping away restoring the stalwart and the support you blokes give me.
As I said in early pages of this thread, I don't have a big cheque book which makes it harder
Thanks.
It is a recording of what will be my last big restoration and a possible guide to others who may own a stalwart.
Ron

[Hay Ewe]

I don't have a big cheque book which makes it harder

Ron

But I am sure it will be more rewarding.

I didn't realise there was that much packed in to a small volume.
Yes, I agree, about no other vehicle like a Stallwart will be built again, cost, complexity and general evolution.

Hay Ewe

[Sitec]

So, are these driveline disconnects, are they like a free wheel hub but on a larger scale? And if so, which axles do you disconnect? Fore and aft and run of the center or both fronts and run on the rears? Will just one 'axle' cope with all the drive power?

[101 Ron]

Disconnect everything and drive on the centre wheels, this also removes any strain though bevel boxes as the centre wheels are a straight though drive from the transfercase.
Many stalwarts have now been converted this way without problems.
these pic are from the Melbourne Stalwart which has disconnects fitted and air operated using the original muff couplings for the front and rear bevel box drive shafts as sliding dog clutches.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/73.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/073_zpse5a8d9fa.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/74.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/072_zps526dc93f.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/75.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/076_zps4426160f.jpg.html)

[Sitec]

There'd be a bit of work making all the linkage but I'd think it'd work well. Perhaps a little 'lead' slope ground on the end of each shaft to help the muff coupling slide on easier....? Good having one near'ish to copy too! :)

[101 Ron]

the shaft must be supported by the muff coupling when disconnected drive wise.......shaft is large and very heavy.
Pics of other people disconnects

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/49.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/n_aCAQDOSOQ.jpg.html)

The above looks to be cable operated.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/50.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/n_a.jpg.html)

small air cylinder operated below
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/51.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/n_a.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

current status..........leaving it running, but doing as much as I can ,now on the other side of the hull.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1553.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps50bf7991.jpg.html)
The above was needle gunned and then just quickly finished with a cheapo sandblaster.
The Wheel is all alloy made by Dunlop UK.
My big cabinet sandblaster is out of action at present as I am short of money to get it sorted out.
I miss it greatly for the smaller items I remove from the Stalwart.
The grill for the LHS water jet is removed presently and it is hard work getting it ready for painting without the cabinet blaster.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1554.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zpsf6b8463d.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1555.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zps42a79dea.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1556.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps8a9e0a49.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1549.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/T2eC16dHJHIE9nysfBj6BQ6JH-lCuw60_35_zpsd8811ced.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1550.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/jo_zps77e23b71.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1551.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/imagesOROZBHCG_zps419bc30f.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The Stalwart has been kept mobile, one of the reasons is a tree cutting company wants to cut the trees under the 33kv power lines at work and the big beast is in the way.
The heater has been pulled apart and the leaking core checked out.
I was going to have a go at it my self, but it looks like some one has tried it before and I know the radiator repair places are cheap and use a different/better grade of solder to what is advailible to me.
The fan/heater housing to my supprize is plastic construction which is a little bit out place with the rest of the vehicle.
The little vent flaps ect are hand oxy welded when made new.
The ducting in the cabin is extensive for venting and demisting.
Two fans are used, the small one pictured and a larger booster one hidden inside the bulkhead at the rear of the cabin.
All this part of the stalwart is ahead of its time with boosted fresh air or recirculate ect.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/594.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zps539814f4.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/595.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/009_zpsa181d71f.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/596.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/010_zpsd29f65fc.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/591.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/011_zps3e763c7f.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/592.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/013_zps790cc422.jpg.html)
Its leaking along the seams of the tanks.
The core is brass thoughout, large and heavy.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/593.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/014_zpsa6889355.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The heater out of the vehicle has given me good access under the dashboard, so it looks like I will try and sort out various small wiring problems I have and treat a bit more rust I found.
I have learnt that the leaking heater core stops leaking when the coolant tank is empty(rear LHS body pillar), the heatercore is still higher than the engine radiator(under the cargo floor) so it causes no real problems to the engine cooling.( only green stuff running around in the cabin and out though the hull drain holes.
I had it in my head to call the vehicle... Seabold... if I didn't find any other names under the paint work.
I though of another name....Waterhorse
I think it reflects the use of the vehicle????????????
I have been enjoying driving the old beast around the vacant blocks of land near work lately.
The adtension this thing attracts is hard to get used too.
Cars stop and pull over to look, or honk the horn and get a thumbs up, They follow the thing etc and wait for me to stop and ask me what it is.
People are telling me they had seen it driving around etc, when I meet them it town .
I think the fact that it is army and big and unusual looking with a noise to match.
Little kids love its Thunderbirds looks.



I am also out of money for things like paint and the heater core repair and is slowing up progress a bit, as the now very short days and cool weather.
Ron

[THE BOOGER]

Hippo (water horse):p

[Sitec]

Hippo (water horse):p

:D The Hippo.... That could stick ya know! The Waterhorse would suit it. :)

[slug_burner]

Seahorse and you could have a pic painted on along with the name.

[101 Ron]

Yes I was thinking how much the description ( Hippo ) suits the big silly thing.
Closer to the truth than said for a laugh...:o:o:o

Heater box coming along.
Heater core cost $50 dollars to get sorted out.
The original sponge foam used inside to seal things was rotten, I found down at the hardware store a special sponge foam stuff with like a tar substance soaked though it used to seal gaps in roofs worked really well but expensive.
The other good news is my cabinet sand blaster is up and running well again.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/513.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zpsb9e90dcd.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/514.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zpsd300dcb6.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/515.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps83614d30.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Access to under the dash board means the fuel / engine oil guage is now working.
Fuel guage working will come in handy as the tank is extremely hard to manually dip and it is difficult to judge fuel burn.
Rolls specs for the B81 motor is 80 litres per hour at full power..:o:o:o:o:o............more than a litre a minute!...
The fuel guage doubles as a oil level guage with a push button on the dash board so the engine oil supply can be checked with the cargo area loaded.
The cargo area is above the engine and so the oil tank dip stick cannot be accessed loaded.
The fire wire system is now working, I found it had been disconnected , so I suspect it may go off with false warnings when the stalwart is used more.
I am not impressed with the quality of the instruments and switch gear on this vehicle.( very poor in fact )
The Stalwart never used the standardised water proof instruments and switches of other CT vehicles of the British army as Alvis designed the Stalwart as a civie design and not the army design board.
water jet buckets are removed ( a easy job ) for painting.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/250.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zps4abaa87c.jpg.html)
The main reason for removing the water jet buckets is so I can needle gun and paint the hull behind them and the fact the weather of late has not been good for working out doors after knock off time in the very late afternoon.
I am very slowly winning with this project, bit by little bit.

[101 Ron]

I gave the Stalwart a good work out on the weekend.
It still has too many things going on to reliably drive it any long distances.
As expected the fire warning horn went off after 15 minutes of driving, so I need to do some home work on that one..........one of the fire wire circults must be shorting out.
I pulled the power supply to it.
The motor takes along time to warm up as does the transmission oils and then the machine starts to come alive.
I suspect I am getting fuel supply problems as the motor performs well and then will die with pumping on the accelerator pedal helping indicating a lack of fuel.
The mechanical fuel pump has been replaced in recent times before I got the vehicle, but I suspect the fuel pump replacement was not the answer to the problem.
I may have to drain the fuel tank and see if there is a in tank fuel strainer or some thing.
Too much work to do to the big silly thing and not enough time.
Some private land I was using to travel to a play area to another piece of private land I lost access to as the owner died in a plane crash.
Doing this saved any problems with driving on public roads and having to throw on the oversize vehicle signs, club plates etc.
I found some one taking some video of the Stalwart doing its thing and waved and I got a friendly wave back.
I gave him a ride and it turns out his brother is a 4WD nut and owns the land I was driving on.....cut along story short I made another friend and welcome to drive the stalwart though their place anytime I want.
Giving local land owners a ride in the stalwart has been a good PR.
They want me to take the Stalwart out to Yalwal.....:angel::angel::angel::
One day may be over the rock steps....the Stalwart is too big to fit down Monkey gum.
I have a plan the replace the standard fuel filter with a very similar one as the elements for the standard one are too hard to find in this country.
I am going to use a standard CAV diesel filer housing , but instead of the R2132P filter element , use a larger longer version, I think it is a R2388P ? which is cheap and advailable.
Just use a adaptor plate onto the standard bracket and while I am at it mount a 24volt electric fuel pump as a back up and primer .........may also help with the fuel flow problems I have currently.
I hope the electric pump can do more than the 1.2 litres of fuel a minute needed at peak load and I suspect the standard mechanical pump can barely do.
I also found a really good mud hole for the stalwart to play in, but a lot of work cleaning the stalwart afterwards.
( sorry I was too busy driving to get any Video of it.)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/1196.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps3ba5e77b.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/1197.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zpsdff48d61.jpg.html)
Sons are some times useful in getting the mud off........I think he enjoyed himself playing shot gun in the hatch of the Stalwart.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/1198.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps44e7991d.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/1199.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zps851e3e52.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/1194.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/006_zps01841f98.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/1195.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zps64c5b030.jpg.html)
Running a power supply from the cabin to the electric fuel pump will be a lot of work as it takes much time to access under the cabin.
Access to the engine ignition power supply is not really a option as it is sealed and shielded.
I know the CAV fuel filters are not fool proof in the way of leaks and a petrol leak is not wanted in the hull of the Stalwart , so the fuel pump will be placed after the filter so it will tend to have suction on it instead of pressure even though the electric fuel pumps are not much good in the suction side of things.
It is worth noting the electric cube type fuel pumps in 24 volt have much larger fittings(3/8 BSP) and internal flow than the 12 volt versions which should help me.

[THE BOOGER]

Will priming the pump be a problem? I put 1 of those on the ferret and even though it is at about half tank height it has a priming problem:(

[101 Ron]

I have one on the Studebaker 6x6 as a back up and a primer.( mounted 3/4 the way up the side of the fuel tank)
I am also worried about the ethanol playing up with fuel pump diaphrams never designed for it.( and being stuck on the side of the road)
I find if the fuel is on the pressure side of the electric pump they will pull though a prime quickly.
If the vehicle has been drained of fuel or left for such a long time that fuel has completely drained pass the pump and the pump has to pull everything though from stratch it will be slow and make a lot of noise and banging etc, but will get the job done eventually.
I have portable 12 volt cube type electric fuel pump to fill the stalwart from jerry cans as the petrol filler cap is 3 mtrs high and is slow , but saves the effort of climbing up with a jerry can and holding it in place on the side of the stalwart.
I also use the portable 12 volt pump and CAV filter to drain forklift fuel tanks etc at work before I weld on them, but stranglely that fuel somehow finds it way in to the stalwart.
It can some times take much noise and time to prime.
I run it from a jump starter battery.
It should be noted most forklifts in my area run of LPG, so any petrol I find in the tanks of trade in forklifts and the ones I work on I am not ripping anyone off.
I will post a picture later of my portable set up.
It should be noted the electric fuel pumps should have some sort of filter before the pump as dirt can get under the ball valve and cause leak back of the fuel all the time leading to slow priming .
.

[Sitec]

Don't know if one of these would be of use... Fuel non return valve in the bigger 6 pot Massey Fergies.. We have them on the shelf at work, and I found this picture from Waga Tractors of the same thing. Any Massey/Agco dealer should have them in stock.. A few in you're fuel line might help your cause no end.. :)

[101 Ron]

Not much going on and I have other projects to do.
Winter and short days( lack of daylight after work) has been stopping me working on the beast.
Made a alloy adaptor place to fit the CAV fuel filter instead of the Volks item.
A very easy mod.
I may fit the electric back up fuel pump near the standard mechanical pump or near the fuel on/off tap behind the cabin as these locations are much lower for priming and easier to run a ignition low tension wire to.
The drain pipes for the rear tail lights are corroded.
I am in the middle of replacing them while I am paint the rear sides of the hull and playing with the water jet buckets.
The tail pipes of the water jets are made from stainless steel.
The brackets that hold the removeable rear wheel mud flaps have been straighten and welded.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/150.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1172_zps854e9a07.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/151.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1173_zpsc5945e85.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/152.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1182_zps2e0cfb4c.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/153.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1181_zpsc9004b14.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/147.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1183_zps4f4467e2.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/148.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1184_zps9b856b6f.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/149.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1185_zps24899527.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/43.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1188_zpsbb8283a5.jpg.html)
New pipe welded on, I used stainless steel pipe.
The hose is fuel delivery hose as it is resistant to oil which may be in the bilge.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/44.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1189_zpsb5e59d13.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

That hose must be water tight.
The tail lights are lower than the deck area of the vehicle.
If the tail lights leaks, the hose drains it back into the hull.
I have been draining the petrol tank, so I can check out the fuel strainer inside the tank.
I think I may have found the intermittent fuel starving problem........check out the pic of the fuel tank breather pipe.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/41.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1191_zps043e646a.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/42.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1190_zps8e801340.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

I finally managed to get a photo copy of a book called Strong, stout and sturdy.........a history of the Alvis stalwart.
It is the first book/article covering the stalwart I have read which seems to be accurate and well researched.
Some good pics and covers most of its uses and service history.
The Stalwart was used with a bar mine laying system and barrier mine system.
It shows good pics of bulk fuel delivery stalwarts and they seemed to have been good in that roll except for the odd stalwart catching on fire.
In the drivers books and some other info all state the winch in the bow to be used for self recovery only.
Until I read strong stout and sturdy I couldn't figure out why.
The winch and mountings are well made and appear to be up to the job.
The winch is not the problem, but the parking brake is.
The twin contracting band parking brakes work on the front bevel boxes.
Therefore if the parking brake is locked on all pulling/winching forces go though only Two bevel boxes and key ways ect to the parking brake drum.
It appears it is possible to damage the parking brake or front bevel boxes with large winching forces.
If doing self recovery none of the above applies.
Recovery of another vehicle should be OK if the operator of the vehicle has his foot on the foot brake ( the Six wheel discs)or the vehicle wedged up against a tree, so it cannot move and the parking brake is not needed.

[101 Ron]

Not much has been going on due to things I cannot explain on this thread.
I have not even been able to work on the Stalwart after work.
What has been done is the finishing of painting around the water jet outlets.
Before the cabin heater was refitted I needed to sort out the wiring under the dashboard which included repair of the engine oil level/fuel level change over switch.
Replace the rear bilge pump switch and add a extra bilge pump switch for the new non standard front electric bilge pump.
Old wiring repaired and some extra stuff fitted for future use.

[101 Ron]

While I was in wiring mode a 24/12 voltage 30AMP inverter fitted and wiring placed for a twin 12 volt outlet and future UHF CB radio power supply.
Relay and power supply for the extra electric bilge pump sorted too with a bypass or auto for the float switch.
Power supply for all of this was taken from the military radio power box as most of the wiring in the vehicle in shielded.

[101 Ron]

The radio power supply box and its panel sand blasted and painted.
I have checked out different locations for the electric emergency priming/fuel pump.
No easy access or room has been found before the fuel filter.
So it will be fitted at the fuel filter even though it is bad from a priming point of view and because the power for the pump can be from a engine bay socket designed for the hand held inspection lamp.
I can just manually plug in the pump if I want it.

[101 Ron]

I am working from a tablet which is a new thing for me and I have not figured out how to transfer pics from photo bucket to Aulro using it.
The kids killed the old computer.
What I did find in the cabin of the Stalwart was a Raider wrapper from
Mars chocolate company Holland with German writing.
The expirery date is early 1983 .
I did some google home work.
RAIDER chocolate bars were only sold in some EU countries between 1979 and 1990 and not in the UK under that brand name.
After 1990 and in all other countries including Australia its called Twix.
This Stalwart has been to Germany doing its bit for the cold war.
I have been told that a lot of Stalwarts were just stored in Germany in the open.
This fits with this Stalwart...........extremely low miles and Rust in the upper body work.

[THE BOOGER]

Hey Ron you coming up to camden park next week end:)

[101 Ron]

I didn't know it was on.
I will be in Sydney on Saterday for another reason not too far away.

Any idea of what's going to turn up.
Ron

[THE BOOGER]

Stuart, saracen, saladin a striker and a couple of ferrets

[101 Ron]

I forgot to add in my up date that I drained the fuel tank.
The gauge always showed near empty so I would throw in a jerrycan every time before I used the vehicle thinking it was low.
I drained over 300 litres of half stale fuel.
I was looking for a strainer on the pick up pipe.
I found none ,only the bare pipe directly above the drain plug.
Just a bit of water found and the inside of the tank was perfect.
The. QLD Stalwart owner tells me his Stalwart has a strainer fitted to his at that location.
Mine never appears to be fitted with one since new ??????
The QLD Stalwart is a 1967 model and mine a 1969 and it may account for the difference.
The good news is the 101 Land rover of mine is OK with a bit of stale fuel.
The false fuel gauge readings was another reason I was checking out the wiring.

I need to get back to checking out and painting the LHS suspension and wheel stations .
It looks like I have a bit of time tomorrow to work on the big beast of a thing.......I might take it for a run and blow out the cob webs before I disable the thing again for a while.

[101 Ron]

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1258_zps0bc2505e.jpg

Heater back in.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1050.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1258_zps0bc2505e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1051.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1259_zpsa7bafc2c.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1256_zpsfa71ad97.jpg

Radio power supply box with the extra wiring and the power voltage reducer.
The only problem is that radio power supply box is not getting power........the vehicles fuses check out OK so I will all have to find out where and why it has been disconnected..........wiring diagram job that one.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1049.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1256_zpsfa71ad97.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1257_zps62fded2e.jpg

The below is for a small fridge to be placed in that spot (RHS rear of the cabin) and for running GPS/depth sounder/odds and sods.
Could run a small front amber rotary safety light from it though the roof hatch too.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1048.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1257_zps62fded2e.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1260_zpsf4fb7f7c.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1263_zpsd8229579.jpg

The wrapper found had neatly been folded up small as possible a shoved between Two cabin plates to get rid of it out of sight.
Who thought 30 years later someone would find it and figure out the Stalwart had been in Germany in 1982.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1045.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1260_zpsf4fb7f7c.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1046.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1266_zps11db462d.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1047.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1263_zpsd8229579.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

I have been learning much about Stalwart electrics.
I found the radio supply power I am using to run things is set up to charge a extra battery and power is only supplied though a control box via cut out relay.
Power is only supplied only when the engine is turning.......ignition on or off doesn't matter........not ideal for what I wanted , but it will do and no chance of the fridge if connected flattening the battery.
Much time spent today trying to find a place for the electric fuel pump......should be simple , but is not.
I ended up setting the pump up to sit in the tool kit and with fittings attached for a quick connect up if ever needed with a plug to go into the engine bay work light plug to run it.
I found the engine bay power plug not working and corroded.
The die cast housing broke trying to clean it up and that lead to more work.
The simple jobs sometimes take the longest time to do.......nothing is straight forward on a Stalwart.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1015.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1268_zpsbf72e294.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1016.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1267_zps31b6ece2.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1017.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1269_zps7ce00ee0.jpg.html)

[Jaster]

Hi Ron,

Wonderful reading here. So much has been done since I last saw it (oh, and you too :p) Will have to get back down there soon to see "The Hippo" in the flesh.

I'll be waiting for future updates to be posted.



Josh.

[101 Ron]

Hi Ron,

Wonderful reading here. So much has been done since I last saw it (oh, and you too :p) Will have to get back down there soon to see "The Hippo" in the flesh.

I'll be waiting for future updates to be posted.



Josh.

Hi Jaster.
No up dates currently.
My mum broke a arm .......both bones and is unable to drive and do stuff.
As you know we work as a team business wise.
I have no spare time for the stalwart even after work as I have to drive mum to and from work ect.
On top of that I have beening having my own health problems which means the spare time I have , I am not able to sort out the Stalwart.
The good news the things should be changing for the better soon, but the X mas time of year is not far away and the really hot weather which knocks me around a bit as the Stalwart is stored out doors.
Progress to date is the LHS rear wheel station and wheel is mostly chipped back ready for under coat as is the wheel.
I am still having fuel problems and they are getting worse.
Fuel supply to carby banjo fitting is good.
The silly thing idles OK,but dies every where else, unless the throttle is pumped...............I think the next step is to look at the jets.
The main and idle jets are accessed out side the carby.
The idle jets must be OK and I suspect the mains are too large to really block up.
I suspect it will be top off the carby and pull the intermediate emulsion tubes..................the real problem being if I drop anything it is gone for good in the goo that is the bottom of the stalwart.
Jaster have you found the bloke with the 6x6 Volvo on this site doing a engine swap and rebuild of the running gear ...?
Drop in and see how I am going............always looking for someone to ride shot gun and I have found a new mud hole and play area near work for the ........hippo.
Ron

[Sitec]

So, the name "Hippo" is staying then?? It does suit it, and in a nice way. They're characterful animals!!! Here's a good line drawing of one... ironically drawn by a guy called Ron too! :)

[Jaster]

Hi Ron,

Sorry to hear about your mum's arm, that's not good news :(
I'll be down on Thursday. Won't have much time, heading of south with the Family for 2 weeks in / around Vic. Lots of packing still to do, but will try and drop in if I can manage it. Yes, I've eagerly read all of Roobar's (or maybe Custard's - you never know ;)) thread. Pretty much what I want to do ... but usual "available funds" issue we all have.

Might have to see if I can lay eyes on it while I'm down ... Maybe convince the wife that we NEED one of them to fit the kids / camping gear etc etc in ;)

And yeah, even if it's not *official*, I think "The Hippo" has been christened, time to break the bottle of champers across the bow.

Cheers,
J.

[101 Ron]

A quick up date.
On another site I read some where that a Alvis stalwart is a gift that keeps on giving...........it is just so true.
I started to under coat the LHS rear wheel station and suspension and realised I had a small oil leak from the inner tracta joint housing.
I could have let it go, but though better to do it now while I am half way there to removing the wheel station.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1077.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1316_zps4f069233.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1078.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1315_zps8d631a07.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1079.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1324_zpsd0928de2.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1080.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1325_zps8c9047fd.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1081.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1322_zps749cacf6.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The sealing cork ring appears to be in reasonable condition, just only shunk a little bit though age.
I was also able to free up and remove the rebound and shock asorbers on this wheel station.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1073.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1321_zps06cc9c0e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1074.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1326_zps86b8574d.jpg.html)
Note the black look of the inside of the housing which is caused by the oil dag additive which has circulated from the central lube tank.
On another site some people have used three large O rings fitted side by side around the bronze inner tracta joint housing in stead of the cork strip.
I have enough of the standard cork to do the whole vehicle, but the O ring idea is a good one to put away in the brain box if the supply of cork seals ever dries up or I want to improve on the cork set up.


http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/ron%203/IMG_1326_zps86b8574d.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1075.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1318_zpsf83f9132.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1076.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1320_zpsff992910.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

I will do both ball seals, boots and the intermediate seal between the tracta joints just like I did the first time around.
I should have less trouble this time around as I should know what I am doing now.
I have also lubed the both air over hydraulic brake boosters with a small amount of hydraulic oil which goes in though a allen head plug here.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1071.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1290_zps1c398f86.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1072.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1329_zps89e4fb27.jpg.html)


This thing is a roads side truck inspection magnet and with a trail of cars following it to see the funny looking truck I need to keep it spot on out side the hull and keep the truck inspectors happy and my wallet fatter.

Ps I like the name seabold or water horse.........you blokes I know are trying to up set me with the Hippo thing?????????

[jakeslouw]

There's a Saracen standing in a private lot here near my house if anybody is interested............

Looks like the turret has been removed but the rest seems fairly complete.

You'll just have to arrange export and shipping from South Africa, but I doubt that the selling price will be very high.

I can drop by sometime and pester the owner.

PM me if you want me to get more info.

[Lockee]

Awesome Ron.

Jason Lock

[101 Ron]

not much going on, if it been to hot its been thunder storms or I have been crook.
Ready for the wheel station to go back together and new parts purchased.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/551.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1374_zps49408375.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/552.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1357_zps034cf6a2.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/553.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1356_zps41898e69.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/554.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1355_zpsc90de325.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/555.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1354_zps30e0600c.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Found a mark on one tracta joint where it slides and shows the way the drive can fail by metal debris coming off and going though hub reduction gears or bevel box gears.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/549.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1358_zpscd87dc5c.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/550.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1359_zps382e30ca.jpg.html)
The so called unwinding of the drive line by going up gutters or driving over wooden sleepers was about getting the load off the tracta faces for a short time so oil could recoat the the tracta fork face.
The oil dag should help with this and drive dis connects as with the disconnects there will be not inter wheel constant load up of the tracta joints and it only takes backing off on the throttle or drive every now and then to get slack on the tracta joints which are driving the vehicle.
Off road use moves the tracta joint forks from loaded to unload positions all the time allowing oil the coat the fork faces,,,,,,with or without drive disconnects.
That tracta fork will be going back in as it lost the metal only and no damage was done to the knuckle it goes into........it may even hold oil better.

[101 Ron]

Progress has been slow.
I ended up replacing that tracta joint fork with the marks on it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/830.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1376_zps4dc8f4d0.jpg.html)

I have purchased a 30 ft inter vehicle starting lead.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/831.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1382_zps4448ec4c.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/832.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1392_zps909eff57.jpg.html)

some other pics of my wheel station progress.
It is now ready to refit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/833.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1384_zps2a419d4f.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/834.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1385_zps1bc7372a.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/835.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1380_zps3a6e8b5e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/836.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1387_zps9aced44e.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Many bolts have been replaced by UNF stainless items.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/825.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1389_zps693e8308.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/826.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1391_zpsb03ba033.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/827.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1390_zps2acea1a4.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/828.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1394_zps53d2bd34.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/829.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1395_zps71a65ebe.jpg.html)
This wheel station beening a non steering one has two cast flat plates which stops it moving on its king pin bearings.......all the wheel stations are interchangeable.

[101 Ron]

A few bearings have been replaced too.
Here is a interesting pic.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/824.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1108_zpsf35004a0.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

I found this on you tube.
Don't watch the first part............look from about 20 minutes into it.
It has some good views of the cabin and running down a road from the top of the cabin.
It is also interesting to get a American angle on the stalwart.
The brakes were building up.......most likely a incorrectly adjusted master cylinder or air pack..........the brakes are dual circult and why 3 brake discs were getting hot and not the other 3.
They also appear to know very little about the stalwart.
2nd gear starts are normal......not 1st gear starts.........gears changes must be made slowly ....normally double shuffling is not needed on 2nd though to 5th.
To do a gear change from 1st to 2nd takes a bit of skill as it is across the box with its unusual gear pattern and the stalwart will not roll very well if in a turn, so the change from 1st to 2nd is better done at a stop if you are not very skilled on the stalwart........just like a high /low gear change on a normal transfercase if you are not skilled........1st gear is the off road crawl gear and in most cases 2nd gear will do most off road work.
The B81 Rolls is just so flexable and will pull from a standing start in 3rd gear as they found out in the vid and it is the easiest engine to start I have ever owned hot or cold bar none and uses no choke in Australias climate.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbxHyG_VcA4


A few other things I can pick to bits on the above video..........the air is not released to the cabin and therefore air guage until over 60 psi is in the main air charge tank..........brakes have prority over any thing else air wise including the guage.
Parking brake is twin drum brakes mechanically operated and completely separate from the 6 wheel air over hydraulic disc.
The rubber flap thing screwed to the air ducting on the LHS of the cabin I don't know what it is for......it is not for the demisting system.....at a guess I think it is more to do with stopping light reflecting into the drivers eyes from the outside mirror??????
The stalwart is a wash with switches and levers.....it takes time to learn what they all do.
The stalwart has infra red driving light system like most other British FV vehicles of its time.

[350RRC]

Best build thread i've ever seen for degree of difficulty and tenacity,

thanks Ron, truly inspirational!

DL

[mrapocalypse]

Best build thread i've ever seen for degree of difficulty and tenacity,

thanks Ron, truly inspirational!

DL

100% Correct.

Thanks.

It's really very interesting.

I

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Another thing which I have just only learnt is the Rolls B81 is a F head motor and that design limits power and conpression ratios, but does breaths well.
A hemi overhead valve design would have been much better.
The B81 is 6.5 litre of 220 to 250 HP.
The Saracen and Saladin used a smaller bore 5.6 litre motor but other wise the same. ........B80 motorSorry for coming on this so late, but why do you suggest the F head limits power and compression?

The F head can be a very efficient combustion chamber, effectively cross flow with significant turbulence to aid fuel mix and you can fit a much larger inlet and exhaust valves than you would be able to fit with a conventional overhead valve head. i.e. the Rover F head is a very efficient combustion chamber, although the exhaust valve is undersized for the capacity. It was the undersized exhaust valve and manifold design that lets the Rover motor down badly. The inlet valve is actually oversized.

[101 Ron]

There are some very good articles about the B81 /B80 motors and its development by the people who were involved and the motors relation ship with the earlier Rolls Royce and Bently motors.
In depth stuff like torsional vibs and combustion characteristics covered.
The B series motor were thoughly tested and developed including alloy block versions and diesel versions of the motor.
Something like 200 different versions of the combustion chamber shape was tried on a single cylinder testing motor.
The B series motors do not handle high compression well without preignition.
What was found that a increase in bore size gave much better than expected power gains.
Thats why we have big bore versions of the B series motors.
Bore size limit became the minmum spacing of the bore to bore in the block.
The B series was a military motor from the start and the combustion chamber and the whole motor was set up for Max power and reliability running on poor and indifferent fuels with good useable torque and power delivery charactaristics.
The F head design was picked purposely over a full overhead valve design to meet the above needs.
After driving the Stalwart with the B81 and now knowing a lot more about the motor than when I first got the vehicle is that it punches above its weight with lots of stuff.
It runs on any old stale fuel I poor down its throat, starts extremely easily, is reliable( bar the ignition system which has now been up graded to electronic), the overall power is not above average for its capacity but the way it delivers it and over a very large part of the rev range.
It is water proof to 2 mtrs even though the stalwart doesn't need it .
80% interchangeablity parts wise between 4,6 and 8 cylinder motors with different bore sizes too.
The blokes running the presector transmissions in other vehicles fitted behind the B81 wouldn't know, drop the motor into the wrong gear and just watch the B81 hang on.
The B81 will if needed run on its governor for hours without damage.
working and tested temp range is minus 40 to plus 50 degree celius.
Dry sump allows running on very steep angles.
Has heavy duty from engine timing case PTO for compressor, power steering and governors ect.
For its time in the 1950s and 1960s few diesels could match it power for its weight with the needs of interchangeablity and military.
Rebuild hours were similar for diesels of the day.
The draw backs was one thing and it comes back to that combustion chamber F head design.............it drinks petrol like a drunken sailor who has pulled into port after a year at sea to a Jamacian rum brewry which never worried the military as the government was picking up the tab.

[101 Ron]

The cylinder bore spacing and stroke are the same as a Rolls Royce silver ghost as that's what they started with when set about designing the B series motors.
Progress on the Stalwart has been slow.
The family farm has been sold and I have had to help move things out ect, so personal time has been very short.
A personal issue has left me not wanting to work on it after my normal working days duties.
I have been pulling out my hair trying the refit the LHS rear wheel station and aligning up the tracta joint dogs...........I don't seem to be getting it and the job by your self is heavy and slow.......the sort of job you only want to do once and find, nope that is not working , pull it out again.
I wish I knew how the factory done it...........they must have found a quick way to do it.
If it doesn't go together by the end of the week I will be setting light to the 400 litres of fuel and watch the silly thing burn !....watch the Nowra news reports for vehicle fires.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

That would be a very sad event after all the work you've done.

Don't do it!

I know what a tiresome period it is closing up and clearing out a farm. My last load was Christmas Day so I don't envy you one bit. (Still working out what to do with the collection.)

[Sitec]

The family farm has been sold.......

Know how you feel here.. Dad made the decision about 18 yrs ago to sell the land, and I still clearly remember the day of the sale.. Watching the trucks being loaded with the kit I'd used since I was old enough to drive, and then seeing it go under the hammer at the auction. Hated it, and still can picture it all!

Take a step back, and poss a breather from 'the big project', and get back to it in a month with a clear head. :)

[Disco_Fever]

Have spent the last few days reading through this thread - it is a staggering project so far. My old man used to be in the 4/19 PWLH, so big girls like this have always held interest for me.

I would love to get to the show at Corowa next time it is on - when is it?

...and if it isn't too late to name it, I think Splashpig suits it.

Anyhow, thanks for sharing all your trials and tribulations so far. Hopefully there are many more. :thumbup:

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[Homestar]

Have spent the last few days reading through this thread - it is a staggering project so far. My old man used to be in the 4/19 PWLH, so big girls like this have always held interest for me.

I would love to get to the show at Corowa next time it is on - when is it?

...and if it isn't too late to name it, I think Splashpig suits it.

Anyhow, thanks for sharing all your trials and tribulations so far. Hopefully there are many more. :thumbup:

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

Keep an eye on the website - Corowa Swim In (http://www.corowaswim-in.org)

In March 2016.

[Homestar]

Have spent the last few days reading through this thread - it is a staggering project so far. My old man used to be in the 4/19 PWLH, so big girls like this have always held interest for me.

I would love to get to the show at Corowa next time it is on - when is it?

...and if it isn't too late to name it, I think Splashpig suits it.

Anyhow, thanks for sharing all your trials and tribulations so far. Hopefully there are many more. :thumbup:

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

Keep an eye on the website - Corowa Swim In (http://www.corowaswim-in.org)

In March 2016. :)

[101 Ron]

Well after about Five months the stalwart is mobile again.
After wasting another day trying to fit that wheel station I was about to find the matches and get some satisfaction and burn the big silly thing and before I knew it the heavens opened up with a thunder storm and I got drenched instead.
I ended up separating the inner and outer tracta joints and fitting the one on the hull separately and then aligning up the splines of the inner and outer tracta joints as another operation.
I ended up using epoxy glue and lock the tracta joint dogs in the correct position.
I now realise one of the reasons I was having so much trouble is the just a lot of the parts are unworn and very tight.
New brake and central lube hoses fitted etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1233.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0009_zpsadkshzie.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1234.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0010_zpstpr8gpvs.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The ignition switch has decided to fall to pieces and so far I have not been able to match it up with anything the same both here in Aust or over seas.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1231.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0011_zpsetmk0vsd.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1232.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0017_zpsotm2sve6.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The good news is I am able to keep it stored under cover for a little while.
Some of the paint , especially on top of the cabin roof has faded already and needs a respray done due to the weather/UVs.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1228.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0020_zps6n38sapq.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1229.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0019_zpslkr6zvqa.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1230.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0018_zpsrntaybtw.jpg.html)

The vehicle is running poorly at present and I need to get to the bottom of it if I want to play with the stalwart.
I am thinking about still fitting the electric fuel pump, but not this time as a back up, but replace the mechanical pump.
Fit a blanking of plate to the side of the engine block where the mechanical pump would usually go.
Use the existing fuel pipes for the electric pump (should be a easy hook up) and support the electric fuel pump with a bracket from the blanking off plate where the mechanical pump used to be.
Near that location is a alloy housing with I think with connections to a ignition power supply along with the starter solenoid, oil pressure pick up etc......in another words I should be able to power the electric pump without to much trouble because of the shielded wiring system.
I want the electric pump as the mechanical pumps don't like ethanol fuels we use these days and the fact this vehicle will only see occasional use so self priming is good .

[101 Ron]

The worry is if the diaphragm on the fuel pump fails , petrol would dilute the engine oil and being a dry sump system would be very hard to pick up with normal checks.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1227.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0021_zps7vefbdxx.jpg.html)


I suppose it is good news in a way.
The clutch is losing hydraulic oil which should be straight forward to fix and better than the other options of where I though the oil was coming from in the hull( the bevel boxes)......just more work.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1225.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/_57%2016_zpssxgtsca1.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1226.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/Copy20of20Stolly20-20Air20Park_zpsralk7hbw.jpg.html)

[THE BOOGER]

If you have the switch no these guys may be able to help:)

Switches (http://www.vintagemotorspares.com/phdi/p1.nsf/supppages/hodge?opendocument&part=4)

I by passed the mech fuel pump as its was leaking into the oil tank wondered where the extra oil was combing from :o

[101 Ron]

Fantastic site thank you.

[101 Ron]

https://youtu.be/R0bFi3DT_sc

[101 Ron]

https://youtu.be/NNG5Ge7n4Uo

[101 Ron]

https://youtu.be/mLPCw18q7Zw

[Homestar]

Great to see it under its own steam again Ron, and also good to see it under cover. :)

[101 Ron]

The stalwart is now running with its original ignition switch glued back together.
Interestingly the poor quality switches are made in Germany and not by mister Lucas.
I found the only thing that matches up is a keyless ignition switch for a WW2 Willy's Jeep.............used on the later war production ones only.
I have a Jeep switch on order.
It also has the electric fuel pump now fitted.
I need to do a long run to see if it can pump enough to keep the B81 Rolls happy at more than a litre a minute at full noise.

[101 Ron]

The standard mechanical fuel pump was removed.
I used its gasket as a template to make a steel blanking plate to go over the hole in the engine block.
I wanted the electric pump to be a straight swap over , so the electric had to mounted at angle to match up with the existing fuel pipes.
I used the blanking plate to mount the electric pump .