The Ultimate FC

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/862.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0058_zpsaxwutk6i.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/863.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0057_zpshfg9efqv.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/864.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0056_zpsxzhk23lu.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/865.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0059_zpshhpbfd2e.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

A fuel line near the pump was replaced while I was at it.
The hardest part is trying to find a power supply for the pump.
It must be remembered the wiring in the engine bay is water proof and shielded and you cannot just run at power wire jumped off something else.
I knew a water tight allowed box mounted near the fuel pump has starter solenoid, coil 12/24 connections with resistors etc inside.
I drilled a small 5/32 hole hidden out of sight in th side of the box/housing and got into the engines wiring that way.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/821.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0064_zpss2l5rhxx.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Pump mounted on engine.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/818.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0062_zpsg6r9g96i.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/819.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0063_zpsy0efh95x.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/820.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0065_zpsdhxgwlgm.jpg.html)

The work just never stops on this thing.
The carby is next on the to do list as it has a flat spot at low revs.
Head light dipper switch has stopped working again........I am going to try and match it up with something else.......the original switches really are rubbish.
I have lost access to land near by to play and drive the Stalwart on as the place is being slowly built out, so I have to get everything up to scratch road worthy wise.........the big silly thing just attracts so much adtension when driven on public roads.
I fix one thing and find Three others to of fix.
Been sorting out some more wiring under the dashboard too.
I also noted the engines inlet manifold has the nozzles and pipes for Ki gass cold starting system fitted
With the pipes ending just above the bell housing, making the only thing missing is the hand pump and tank to get the system working ( not like if it is ever will be needed)..............must part of a hang over from the B81 Rolls uses in other vehicles and interchangeablity etc.
Ron

[101 Ron]

Dipper switch replaced.
Dodge a 101 owner on this site had exactly the correct ignition switch at home from a old Mercedes 305 bus and sent it to me.......AULRO comes good again and thanks Dodge for the trouble.
The carby was removed and the jets cleaned out.
One accelerator pump out of Two had a blocked jet.
Both low speed jets blocked and cleaned out.
The carby is a little bit interesting.
Dual throat of a large size.
It has a third throat and butterfly for cold starting only which I never need to use and is hydraulically operated from the cabin.
The high altitude adjustment I knew the carby had in most Rolls B series is a manual adjustment, but on this one is automatic by use of a brass air pressure sensitive bellows built in side the carby.
The float design allows for extreme angles of tilt as does the centrally positioned main jets.
The carby body so of cast iron construction.
The butterflys and manifold are large and open......this motor breathes well.
Ron

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/596.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0084_zps5espslhg.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/597.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0083_zpsp0kdrepr.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/598.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0088_zps8xf3bl4t.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/599.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0087_zpsbu70oyz8.jpg.html)
Note the twin floats and the third throat for cold start above.
Note the small round thing under the nut in the middle top of the carby is the atmostpheric brass bellows.
The accelerator,main and slow speed jets are accessible from out side the carby.
I took the carby off the motor( a easy job) as if I dropped a jet or plug it would have been lost forever in the black goop in the bottom of the hull.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/582.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0089_zpsirmxpeic.jpg.html)
The arm above is for third butterfly( cold start)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/583.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0092_zps7vrgiwpp.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/584.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0091_zpskfyj6cyo.jpg.html)
one low speed jet above.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/585.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0093_zpshkctqmwu.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/580.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0094_zpszo7inqyc.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/581.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0095_zpsecjoaee9.jpg.html)
Note above the KI Gass nozzle to the right and left of picture in the inlet manifold.
It is one of Four and it lines up perfectly it the intakes on the head.
Using the KI Gass nozzles would be perfect for LPGas injection or petrol injection.
The manifold is large and the motor appears to breath well.
Note the raw fuel in the bottom of manifold.
Manifold is water heated.

[101 Ron]

Carby is still abit lean just off idle.
Checkout the back fire at about 50 seconds and then another.
The two backfires recorded were small to some of them......the Stalwart does nothing in halves.
Note the clanking sound is the air compressor drive.......very normal noise.

https://youtu.be/ynpnvKTUX1I

Slightly hotter sparkplugs have been fitted to try and burn them clean a bit.

[101 Ron]

Now for some Stalwart propagander


This is some ones camper conversion of a Stalwart.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/579.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/14277_700w_zps0pseafu9.jpg.html)

Ron

[101 Ron]

The weather on the East coast has been very wet and interesting.
I want to leave the Stalwart outside again and finish needle gunning LHS front and middle suspensions and wheel stations , but that can not happen currently.
What has happen is I had to have a second crack at the carburettor to clean blocked jets.
The steel supply pipe after the filter must be a bit rusty and rust specks is blocking the jets after I clean them.
The new electric fuel pump is able to keep the thirsty beast fed.
All is currently good.
I finished fitting the troop seats behind the cabin.
I have been able to test run the big silly thing and I now seem to have the reliability I have been looking for.
The following vids were taken by my son , so the quality is not great and the fact he was hanging on for life and limb on one testing run.
Brakes are bleeding themselves and getting better with useage after removing the last wheel station.
No oil leaks from the suspension or wheel station or any squeaks.
Still much to do , but I am happy as can be, I finally feel like I am getting somewhere.
I am limited off road wise with what I can do with the stalwart as the ground is just so water logged.(11 tons is a lot of work and mess if bogged.)
Should be links to about 10 you tube vids when I am finished.
Ron

[101 Ron]

https://youtu.be/b0ItZ0VUOLw

[101 Ron]

https://youtu.be/IypO1G0e24c

Note at about 10 seconds the Stalwart habit of flames out the exhaust.

[101 Ron]

https://youtu.be/4Up6OEVkq00

[101 Ron]

https://youtu.be/b4p8e6hbSUc

Ground conditions were not the best.

[101 Ron]

https://youtu.be/KtfSqa3R8GY

[101 Ron]

The old Stalwart at speed.


https://youtu.be/hKgvqle4dT0

[101 Ron]

Another one at speed coming the other way and checking to see if the brakes pull up straight.

https://youtu.be/TDkxBKEvrbc

[Homestar]

Great videos Ron! Awesome to see it out and about. Looks like everything is working well - particularly the brakes. :)

Looks like all those countless hours on the wheel stations has paid off.

Great work.

[101 Ron]

According to the mechanics who worked on them in the British army if you couldn't the rear wheels off the deck it didn't pass.
My excuse is the road was wet.
You hear the tyres chirp a little bit so it cannot be too bad.
They in the army, recon it is possible to get the front pintle to touch the ground on hard braking...........might be a tall/up lifting story and I have no desire to find out.
If the weather is better tomorrow I may take it on a longer run......I have to get historic club permission first.

[101 Ron]

https://youtu.be/ieL3xU98w8o



Note at 16 seconds you can hear a crack/bang sound......that famous Stalwart back fire

[101 Ron]

Boiling vessel works well.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1373.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0132_zps2norwmnm.jpg.html)

It took about 30 mins to get a full load of water up to boiling taking 50amps at 24volt to do so.
I will try it out as a cooker later.
The altenater is more than able to meet the load.

[101 Ron]

https://youtu.be/NGBBbxkwCRU

[THE BOOGER]

You should have given it bit of a squirt and sorted the guy in the silver ute :wasntme: so does it fit the maccas drive thru:cool:

[101 Ron]

Today it was check out the winch cable and see how long the cable is.
It was lubed and the red paint for maximum extension redone.
The cable is perfect and rust free.
The only defect is some broken strands where it bends coming out of the hull when stored..............a easy fix by slightly shortening the cable if it gets bad enough to warrant it.
I was also checking the accuracy of the in cabin cable spool out length
Indicator and to see if the cable had been red painted.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1353.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0137_zpss1mubtm6.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1354.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0133_zps7ycw8t9t.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1351.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0134_zpsezc3pdgn.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1352.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0135_zpsmavknbew.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

I learnt the hard way not to play with the the boiling vessel.
It is only suppose to be used with the motor running and I left it on with the motor off.......,..........flat batteries in 10 mins.....not even enough left to make the starter solenoid click.
At least I had a cuppa while I figured out how to get 24 volts into the beasts belly.

[lowfat]

Hi ron good to see such progress.

You must have a stuck relay on the boiling vessel mine isn't powered unless the engine is running.


Cheers

John

[101 Ron]

I have not done a progress report for a while as there has been little progress.
While the Stalwart has been mobile I have been driving it around the local paddocks and getting some enjoyment back from the big beast.
Still getting some small fuel blockage problems due to rust in the fuel lines after the filter.
I would be driving it further afield except I cannot find one OVERSIZE sign to tie to the front of the stalwart and money has been extremely short and the proper tie on sign is $165 though the local truck place, but I am getting one much cheaper, but it is been ordered and will take time.
The stalwart is only 12mm over width, but if caught with out the signs and paper work for the vehicle the authorities will not be kind and the truck inspection area is just down the road from work and they have been very active lately.
I did a deal with the local canvass repairer place the fix the canvass on my 101 Landrover and cut another weather cover for the rear of the stalwart , in return I fix his forklift.
His forklift took a lot of my spare time to fix.
I have had some oil filter adaptors made for the Stalwarts engine to take spin on filters.
This is not a new idea, but I have made improvements.
To do this I got my hands on a new B series rolls Royce engine oil filter housing.
The filter housing is also to be used for colour matching new paint to respray the motor.

[101 Ron]

The stalwart has been under cover which is a good thing, but where it is I cannot work on it and to leave it out side without a rear cover and floor plates out is just asking the thing to fill up with water dirt, dust and leaves.
The weather cover is now finished so I should get back on track soon.
Below is the engine oil filter housing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/579.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0192_zpsornqukmi.jpg.html)
Note on the pic below the brass incerts on the housing so the bolt threads don't bind and they are UNF thread even though UNF is not a good thread for brass.
It was done that way for no other reason than standardisation of all the vehicles threads to UNF.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/580.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0193_zpsrxl8otmq.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The standard spin on conversion is something like this where the spin on filter must mate up to a thin raised area of the standard filter housing.
I didn't like that at all and it limits more the types of spin on filter you can use.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/575.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0197_zpsxomewrqb.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/576.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0198_zpsxn7imos1.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/577.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0201_zpsqpwcqvyi.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/578.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0204_zpsdql7eqno.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

I came up with this improved way of doing it.
First use a longer thread on the adaptor.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/571.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0205_zps4bo3rsl2.jpg.html)
And then use another adaptor with a larger flat surface for the spin on filter to mate up too.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/572.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0202_zpsklu4oey5.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/573.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0203_zpshkguhm2f.jpg.html)
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/ron%203/DSCN0207_zps6gs0oicq.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0202_zpsklu4oey5.jpg.html)
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/ron%203/DSCN0202_zpsklu4oey5.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/574.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0208_zpsi8ite8f8.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

It works like this.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/567.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0210_zpsdbhnpybh.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/568.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0209_zpsgc3tazrk.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/569.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0213_zps2pgggn38.jpg.html)
I got a few made up as the hydraulic filter is the same set up and I will post one to the Stalwart owner who gave me the rust free roof cabin entry hatches in thanks.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/570.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0211_zpsq4ej9njc.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Plan to check out the front left and centre wheel stations soon and repaint.
I leave you blokes with a old in service pic of a Stalwart .
Taken in Germany during the cold war.(BAOR)
Ron.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/566.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/newstalwart_zpsafjelbqh.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

A MK1 Stalwart at sea in the early 1960s.
Still pics taken from a british pathe film.( On six wheels anywhere)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/542.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/downloadfile_zpssbkyvuup.jpeg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/543.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/downloadfile-1_zpsbamz3pz8.jpeg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/544.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/downloadfile-2_zpsmngx6icq.jpeg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/545.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/downloadfile-3_zpsyttayifg.jpeg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/546.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/downloadfile-4_zpscgfohdak.jpeg.html)

[Brute]

Looks pretty low in the water, I reckon you would want to be ready to exit quickly :)

[101 Ron]

Todays effort.
I found that Oversize sign.
I wanted to show the Stalwart climbing a steep hill, but the ground is still too wet in the area I had hoped to do the vid, so it was just fun sliding around in the mud today.
https://youtu.be/vJzqDFjvd0A

https://youtu.be/pfqqngAxT90

[THE BOOGER]

How close to your camera operator did you come in the first video he seemed to bail at the last moment:twisted:

[101 Ron]

My son knows me too well and also knew the Stalwart was not responding to the helm very well in a earlier run down the muddy area at speed.
I was trying to encourage the Stalwart to drift a bit and that is why I was driving around in circles.
As I stated before ground conditions at another spot were too soft to show the Stalwart climbing and when off roading in soft conditions in a vehicle of this size (11tons) without another vehicle of similar size to recover you any self recovery without a winching point anchor becomes extremely expensive in time and possibly money and the land owner could get upset too.
It is also the reason why I was checking out the winch rope on the previous page as a just in case.
PS
The local motor cross bikers do crazy things when they meet the Stalwart on a narrow track coming the other way
:angel::angel::eek:

[101 Ron]

Last weekend I realised the Stalwart had 286 miles on the dial when I first got it nearly 4years ago and has now just turned over 400 miles all mostly done in the paddocks near work.
The first 286 miles judging by the little wear in the vehicle to be correct ,took over 30 years shared between the British army and previous owners.
The British army knows how to get value back on their purchases....?????

[Lotz-A-Landies]

<snip>
The first 286 miles judging by the little wear in the vehicle to be correct ,took over 30 years shared between the British army and previous owners.
The British army knows how to get value back on their purchases....?????
If you've ever seen the British Army vehicle storage yards you'd realise it is all in readiness for the next war.

After all the British Army in the Rhine was only expected to delay an invading Eastern Block army for a few days to a couple of weeks while the military on England mobilised using the War Reserve. I guess they didn't want to have another experience like 1939-40.

Lots of vehicles only ever drive from the vehicle park to servicing and return. A bit like pool vehicles in the Oz Army, but you would be aware of that. :)

[101 Ron]

Just a quick up date.
The Stalwart is now back out side where I can work on it.
Middle LHS wheel removed with brakes, shockers, etc so I can remove the 10 layers of old paint and treat surface rust.
During this process I notice the rubber boots over the tracta joint bells are cracked.......ie not dirt, mud and water tight.
They need to be replaced.
The main oil seals do not appear to be leaking.
If this vehicle was not going to swim or be used off road I could leave all well alone, but it is not the case.
I need to pull another wheel station off.......GGRRRR !:angrylock::censored:
Just a few pics,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/51.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0259_zps06lpdsiw.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/52.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0262_zpsltgoglca.jpg.html)
Wheel station wishbones needle gunned of old paint now mostly done.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/53.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0258_zpsylxgnfzb.jpg.html)
Stripped and painted another wheel , brake caliper ect, just more of the same sort of stuff as before.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/54.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0257_zpssfg9nygf.jpg.html)
I will not bore you blokes with more of the same sort of pics.
The weather is now good for working on this thing and I am trying to make the most of it, just work is now busy and giving me little time......everything seems to work against me on this vehicle.

[Sitec]

I saw this pic and thought 'Here's Ron's next project' Stalwart transport for shows further afield! :)

[Homestar]

Damn, that must be a big truck - the Stolly is a big enough beast on its own! All you need after that is a Landie to stick in the back of the Stolly so you can go and get milk and bread while you're out. :D

[101 Ron]

I looked into it.
The Leyland/Foden/Daf MMLC is 3 metres wide and and cruises at 60 kph ( not much faster than the stalwart) and therefore not ideal for Australian distances.
Only a hand full of DROPS slipped though the system( In the UK) and got rego, they are too wide.
The MMLC DROPS has issues with height when loaded with a crane version of the stalwart.
The rack would have to be slightly strengthen and widen to best carry a Stalwart correctly.( note in the pic the flex in the rack and the tyres of the stalwart over hanging the rack......the stalwart is already slightly over width)
A Australian civie prime mover and low loader on historic plates appears to be the best way to go as being easier to live with maintaince wise and will have better fuel burn ,able to do highway speeds for Aussie distances, easier to load than any thing military.
A ex Aust army wreaker and lift tow will not work well on the stalwart, due to the drive system.
Another option is to make the stalwart go faster gearing wise.( and have one less vehicle to maintain)
I am trying to find out if Saracen transfercase gears will fit the stalwart.
Even though the transfercases are different , the gears of the Saracen should fit the stalwart.
If that is the case the stalwart would be able to top out speed wise at near 80 kph with a slight trade off in low gear off road gearing.
Still haven done much to the Stalwart lately.....the weather gods have been good, but I just cannot seem to get into the swing of things on the stalwart.
Ron.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Not only are they overwidth (maximum 2.7m for floats and some tilt trays or 2.5m for everything else) which can't be registered in NSW so have to drive on a permit each movement, they are all Left Hand Drive and built after 1989 so you can only import them if you're a RAWS authorised workshop (where it would have to be converted to RHD and meet current ADR) or you are living in Europe for at least a year and bring it in as a personal import.

All too difficult.

If you've ever seen the Alvis (6 wheeled) FV on a 2.5m wide tray or trailer the edge of the tyres are right on the edge and if you have to drive them on/off its a hair raising experience because they crab when steering. Worse if there is a sideways slope where you load. :eek:

(I chickened out the first time I guided one onto a Mack Fleetliner/20 Ton plant trailer combination.)

The DROPS platform however isn't overwidth (9.11m (length) x 3.18m (height) x 2.5m (width)) and could be used with a conventional hook loader truck. It makes loading easier because you drive the vehicle onto the platform sitting on the ground and then hook it onto the truck.

The platforms were made by Reynolds Boughton (amongst others), same as the RB44 and my Defender 6x6 conversion.

[THE BOOGER]

What about one of these and a trailer

Rare Diamond RIO Original Vietnam AUS Army Tank Carrier Truck Vintage Military | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rare-Diamond-Rio-Original-Vietnam-Aus-Army-Tank-Carrier-truck-Vintage-Military-/201417432220?_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MB E%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140410092834%26meid%3D63769a9 86d1c4430ba69b061b61981bb%26pid%3D100034%26rk%3D6% 26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D262030635268&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=eJoWVDF0G%252F0gY14YGoMcUtP3f2s%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc)

:D:D

[Tombie]

That is a thing of beauty...

(havent read the whole thread just the 1st page)

[Sitec]

They are all Left Hand Drive and built after 1989 so you can only import them if you're a RAWS authorised workshop (where it would have to be converted to RHD and meet current ADR) or you are living in Europe for at least a year and bring it in as a personal import.

All too difficult.

Hmmm funny you should mention that... So's this! Manufactured after 1989 and LHD.. It'll be converted to RHD in the UK, but as of yet I'm unable to find a functioning RAWS workshop in Adelaide that deals with trucks! The fella at customs looked thru the books and couldn't find anything relating to the 'restrictions after 89' that everyone talks about!! They make it hard for no reason!!! (Sorry for the thread hijack Ron!!) :)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I read somewhere in the last two days that heavy vehicles over 12 tonnes imported today potentially have to meet current ADR not those in place at the time of manufacture. The same applied to buses.

Irrespective of all that when I was investigating Scammel/Leyland/DAF I came to the conclusion that it was much easier to import an earlier truck.

[101 Ron]

https://youtu.be/XyzCQ4ZSMi4

The F word mention in this you tube vid three times.....is that a problem ?( with a accent)
The stalwart with the pink paint job is not ex SAS, but painted that way for a lip stick promotion many years ago.
Looks like I am completely removing that wheel station as not only is the rubber boots are shot, but it is rusty and leaking oil slightly.
Better now than later.......I hate refitting wheel stations !
Here is another vid with may be of interest.
https://youtu.be/Cy_03nYlxcQ
And another
https://youtu.be/2iMH7ZFriaQ

[Lotz-A-Landies]

What about one of these and a trailer

Rare Diamond RIO Original Vietnam AUS Army Tank Carrier Truck Vintage Military | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rare-Diamond-Rio-Original-Vietnam-Aus-Army-Tank-Carrier-truck-Vintage-Military-/201417432220?_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MB E%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140410092834%26meid%3D63769a9 86d1c4430ba69b061b61981bb%26pid%3D100034%26rk%3D6% 26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D262030635268&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=eJoWVDF0G%252F0gY14YGoMcUtP3f2s%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc)

:D:DWe both know someone who would love one of those. Fits right into his
I want one of everything I worked on as a RAEME crafty philosophy.

He even had a couple he bought from the auctions to use as tippers but they've long gone. (Long before he got back into mil stuff)

I wonder what the reserve was?

BTW: Ron Camden Park is on the 19th!

[101 Ron]

I pulled apart the tracta joints on that wheel station I removed.
One of the tracta joint forks had a mark in it , just like the last one.
New tracta fork and bearings are to be fitted when I find time.
This wheel station was a lot more rusty than the others for some reason.
Manage to get the chassis/hull in primer behind where the wheel station goes.
Looking into if gears from a Saracen APC transfercase can be fitted to the Stalwart transfercase.
The transfercases are very different, but the main reduction gears look the same other than ratio in the parts books.
The Saracen gears are available in Australia would give the stalwart a top speed of a whisker under 80 kph and therefore a relaxed 60 plus kph cruising speed with better fuel burn.
The stalwart can do just over 60kph now, but its screaming to do so.
The stalwart balances well with a wheel station missing, hardly any lean on it with out a jack under it.
I think I will keep the suspension wedges that hold up the wish bones in the vehicles tool kit as it could come in handy one day if the vehicle ever had to drive home on 4 or 5 wheels.
The wedges are easily fitted by jacking the wheel station up and placing them in.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/9.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0276_zpsp2skzqzp.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/10.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0284_zpsdyuu0kc9.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/11.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0279_zpsnaoj9o4y.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/12.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0283_zpsknn0ahmw.jpg.html)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Ron

Apparently one of the design parameters of the Alvis 6X6 FV were that they could lose one wheel station on each side and still be able to drive.

We found a billabong at Camden Park when we moved our campsite from the regular place a fortnight ago. Perhaps you can do a swimming demo some time! We hope to have both Stuarts there next year and maybe the M548 (Tilley)

Diana

[101 Ron]

One problem I did have is the fitting of new rubber boots on the suspension without removing the suspension brackets from the hull which is a pull the vehicle down into a Million bits job.
luckily until now the old boots have been serviceable.
With a lot of rubber grease and removing one bearing plate I was able to work a new old stock boot over the torsion bar tube.
It took a few boots to get it right as they are 30 year old new old stock and tend to split if worked out of shape too much.
Another option if that didn't work was to made a split boot from new rubber sheet and rubber glue the split together.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/4.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0282_zps2hvap8qh.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/5.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0280_zpsd5pisu7m.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/6.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0278_zpsbitwsvdn.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/7.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0277_zpsmxoc0wem.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/8.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0261_zpsj3bmnoxz.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Just a quick report.
This wheel station I am working on is I think is a ring in from another vehicle.
Found the chromed ball for the tracta joint for the hub has a mark in it and the chrome worn off in one spot.
I am hoping I can locate another chrome ball.
I have a vague plan of taking the Stalwart to the same show and shine show I did Two years ago as it is local and a chance to show it off.
I have to get a move on and get the big old girl back together.
Money has been extremely tight meaning I have to wait and save up before buying the bits I need which slows things up.

[101 Ron]

The flash from the camera hides it a bit , but the worn spot on the chrome ball of the tracta joint can be seen.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/78.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0316_zpsxg3tvidr.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/75.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0317_zpsnxyyrf65.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/76.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0318_zpspfvjgzac.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/77.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0319_zpsupjnjcq0.jpg.html)

I hate doing the wheel stations, they just take up so much time and mucking around.

[101 Ron]

The Stalwarts concept was not taken to the next level.

What if.......alloy hull to the same design, two speed transfercase and drive disconnects between wheels,300hp turbo diesel, split braking system so the vehicle could be steered using light weight tracks.
The basic design is very sound.
Below is someone else's in sight of what could have been.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/74.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/logistics_zpsc52oulpq.png.html)

I keep thinking the stalwart as one of the English could have beens , that got canned , like the super sonic Harrier, the Fairey Gyrodnye, the Landrover Iceberg Diesel V8,, brillant ,but never fully followed though.

I have organised a Saracen transfercase , as new condition to rob the gears out of it, so I need to find some money, all to do for another day.
Ron

[101 Ron]

I cannot source a new or good second hand tracta joint ball socket in Australia except if I purchase a whole new wheel station assembly for a Saracen.
The only people who possibly sell them as a separate item is Bannisters in the UK.
It is costing me 275 dollars to get the old ball rechromed locally and so far this has taken three weeks and I still have not received it back.
The defect in the chrome of the ball appears to be a manufacturing defect and rough handling during a previous disassembly.
I was hoping for the wheel station to be refitted before Xmas........I am running out of time.
Been doing a bit of painting to keep things moving along.
The trailer plug connection is a NATO type sitting in a water proof housing which is blanked off with a large Alloy plug.
naturally It has a very fine thread and corroded in place which required much work to remove and thread repair.
Little things take time like the water proof number plate and blackout light connections, derusting and rewater proofing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/186.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0321_zpsupuybhzb.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/187.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0322_zpsilr47kw2.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/188.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0320_zpsfotxqhgn.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/184.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0326_zpsjfacbcwq.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/185.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0327_zpslxngyicj.jpg.html)

[Is Vic There]

Old 5 series Toyota not seen one of them for a while!

[101 Ron]

The last up date before X mas.
The missus has got me going on a cruise this year and I will be unable to work on the stalwart for a while.
I am under a bit of pressure to get rid of it, as I seem to only moving forward on this thing slowly and I need money for health bills.
I have a lot to think about in the new year.
I have that wheel station coming together.
As usual I had drama getting the tracta joint in the hull side of things lined up, but less than before.
I refitted the wheel station in 2 halves.
A lack of wear appears to be the problem, the parts are just tight and instead of being a simple slide in fit,things have to be tapped in with a rubber hammer etc.
The tracta joint was glued together to refit it as it appears to be the easiest way for me on the Stalwart with its low 400 miles on the clock.
I am slowly getting to do the wheel stations quicker and easier.
I should have the Stalwart running around again by my next post.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/501.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0332_zpsjmdnr4hx.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/502.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0329_zpsb8kxyhki.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/503.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_20151216_081307_zpskm2f8nqm.jpg.html)
Ron

[101 Ron]

Old 5 series Toyota not seen one of them for a while!
Old forklifts come to my work to die or be built/ restored.
I play around with older forklifts all the time, in fact I sort of specialise in it, as I have been swinging spanners on forklifts for more than 35 years and know stuff about the older forks most others don't.
While not working on my own army stuff and customers forklifts I do a bit of restorations on forklifts I want to keep or resell.
I have just finished a small 900kg capacity 2 series Toyota for use at home its a bit rare and small enough to drive though a door way, but big enough to lift a car engine out with a jib.....the stuff I do when not working on the stalwart.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/499.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_20151216_090842_zpslojzeomq.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/500.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_20151216_090825_zpsdd94eghc.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The big beast is up and running again on Six feet.
New brake and oil feed lines fitted as per the other wheel stations.
I will have a play with the stalwart soon.
Only one more wheel station to check out and I don't think I will be pulling that one off the vehicle.
It only takes a flake of paint , the slightest misalignment to ruin your day trying to refit a suspension pin on this vehicle.
The centre wheel stations are driven from a Tee bevel box driven from the transfercase and the lubrication to this bevel box and inner hull tracta joint is from the transfercase and not the central lube tank.
The trap is the transfercase dip stick is incorrectly marked from the factory.
If filled to the level mark the transfercase oil level is not high enough to fill the tee bevel boxes.
The transfercase must be filled 25mm/ 0ne inch above the level to do so.
a little job for me was it correct this and replace the wasted mild steel transfercase dip stick with a stainless steel one with a marking on it showing both the level needed to fill the bevel boxes and the factory marked level.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/829.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0345_zpsernb2e81.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/830.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/DSCN0347_zpspyr23760.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/831.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/DSCN0349_zpsq4wegsoc.jpg.html)

On the above pic on the old dip stick rod you can see where the oil level had been kept 25mm above the full mark.

[101 Ron]

I have a plan ahead to take the Stalwart to a army truck rally within reach of its normal place of garaging.
It will be the longest run with the stalwart yet and I have much work to do to ensure the stalwart will not let me down.
I still have chase oil leaks inside the hull, check clutch adjustment, check steering wheel alignment..........all simple stuff on a normal vehicle, but a lot of work on the stalwart..........I cannot even see the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder, let alone try and work out its adjusting procedure.
Now that I have almost finished sorting out the running gear out side the hull I can look to making the upper hull water tight( cutting out the rust) and relook into doing the drive disconnects between wheels.
The disconnects between centre and rear wheels looks like it can be done without disturbing too much inside the vehicle.
The centre to front wheels is a different story......the crane, engine dry sump tank, air charge tank , fuel tank and hydraulic oil tank looks like they will need to come out.( a lot of work and a lot of messy oil pipes too)
Then the drive shafts and muff couplings can be accessed.
That would be a good time to replace various pipes and hoses as well as replacing the oil seals in the front bevel boxes.
The front of the hull also needs cleaning out of years of debris.
The crane would be painted off the vehicle.
While the tanks are out the high speed gears could be dropped in the transfercase.
Still a long way to go and nothing is easy on the stalwart.
That is the plan at present.
I still have a few pressures on me to move on from the stalwart..........but I want to finish what I started.
Money and health, time issues could force my hand.
I am sitting on a offer on the stalwart which is tempting.
Time will tell.
Ron

[Is Vic There]

I have just finished a small 900kg capacity 2 series Toyota for use at home its a bit rare and small enough to drive though a door way, but big enough to lift a car engine out with a jib


I remember the FG9, also remember selling an FG7 back in the UK to a travelling theatre company, it was the only machine that could do the job, I knew this and how rare they were so made a few bob!


Just traded a 5FG20 in!

[101 Ron]

had a ball today running around in the stalwart today .
Fronted up to the local Sell and Parker (scrap metal merchants) and put the Stalwart on the weight bridge.
9580 KG in its current condition with some of its floor plates and stuff out of it.
Still much to do in the way of checking and adjusting and getting that reliability I need.
I think I can achieve the possible rallie coming up.
The more I use the Stalwart the better it goes.
Lack of use is a big issue with this vehicle in the past and present.
The stalwart is a pain to drive in busy traffic ,as it is just not built for it gearbox and locking diff wise.
On a dirt road and its a different story.
People were pulling up and taking pics & vid on their phones
Ron:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D: D:D:D:D:D:D:D

[101 Ron]

In the UK it has been a little bit damp.( major flooding)
I think it is in Yorkshire a Stalwart was helping out.
Carting 6 tonnes of feed for farmers who cannot road in the feed though normal means.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/702.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_0025_zpsjgv8jor4.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/703.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_0026_zpsl81er0fp.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/704.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_0027_zpsmrroffok.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The stalwart would not do full floatation with six tonnes, but with six tonnes it would still get safety though to 2.5 metres of water........well over my head !
Exhaust outlet pipes currently off the stalwart.
I had to fix it as the exhaust gases was melting the amber safety light.
I am thinking about making new pipes in stainless steel.
The protection mesh has had a misunderstanding with a tree and needs sorting out.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/700.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0354_zpszpb60xtg.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/701.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0355_zpscbepmuvz.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The Stalwart has a play mate in works small yard.
If you have been following this thread you will know we sold the family farm about 6 months ago.
I had my restored 6x6 WW2 Studebaker at the farm and the new owners wanted one.
I put them onto one which they purchased and are going to restore.
The new owners of the farm have become friends.
They will do the basics at my work, so they can enjoy the vehicle on the farm before getting serious with the restoration.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/776.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0358_zpsfrwlkz88.jpg.html)
Ps........... placed a FG7 forklift for" is Vic there" in the pic.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/777.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0357_zpspxul6hiu.jpg.html)https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/778.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0376_zpsku6ypryd.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/779.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0377_zpswmbny9vy.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The Stalwart had been under cover until recently, but the yard had to be rearranged so both trucks and forklifts could fit as the storage place for the Stalwart has now been leased out.
The exhaust tail pipes is proving a problem in that no one near by, can bend 3 inch Dia thin wall stainless to the correct radius I need.
90 degree bends ......no problem, but a radius is.
Been playing with some of the floor plates and rear compartment divider board......nothing worthwhile to take a picture of, but the idea behind temporary fitment of the floor plates is to stop the exhaust manifold from overheating, letting the engine fan force though hull draft work and cool the manifold and allow the stalwart do longer trips with out a red hot exhaust manifold.
The Fine UNF threads which fill with rain water for bolts that hold down the floor plates in the cargo area have been Heli coiled or repaired.
Now the stalwart is out in the open where I can work on it, the last wheel and wheel station will be checked out , chipped back of old paint and then repainted.
The hydraulic accelerator pedal system giving the engine little throttle.
Just more work for me to chase up.
I have been thinking about the muffler compartment area which is not sealed when the vehicle is swimming and in general is a little bit hard to access to paint and treat rust due to high exhaust temps and water action.
I am thinking of making some sort of side door to access the compartment to allow inspection and regular painting.
Another problem with a old Stalwart is because of the mufflers are exposed under water means any hole or leak in the mufflers or exhaust system could drown the motor if the motor is turned off when swimming.........another trap with this vehicle and close inspection of muffler condition is necessary.
My sand blaster has been out of action too, which slows things up.
Hope to get back into the swing of things again restoration wise.

[Is Vic There]

Hi Ron,


Thanks for the picture, great forklift, very rare indeed!


Keep up the good work, really enjoy this thread.

[101 Ron]

Very little going on with the stalwart at present.
A lack of money and time being the main reasons.
my other vehicles have been costing me big money.
I have my 3 inch stainless steel exhaust pipe back from bending and I now know why when other stalwart owners replace their exhaust pipes its simple 90 degree bends as the cost of reproducing the original ones is very expensive......two different radius, two different set ups ect.
I have been sitting on a new TIG welder for a while and I want to get my hand back in at doing it, so I have been saving up to set up the rest of the machine.( It would have been cheaper and quicker to pay some one to do it.)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/586.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0381_zps4rud0f5h.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/587.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0386_zpsq5iablks.jpg.html)
The front left side suspension has been very dry.
I have had to recoil the threads which the special locking bolts for the wish bone pins use, as the old items had sheared and damaged themselves due to dry pins.
The rubber single piece non split boots around some of the suspension needed replacing to keep the whole thing water proof.
To replace them as per the book means stripping the suspension from the hull and pulling everything out from inside the hull to get at various bolts.
I ended up making split boots by using the two NOS boots, cutting them and glueing them together using tyre tube patch cement to make longer split items using the same sort of rubber the factory did which has lasted 40 years.
New stainless hose clamps and finish off with silastic..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/588.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0387_zpshh157nqs.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/589.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0384_zpspdhxtkbr.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/590.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0380_zpsfqrerbdn.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/591.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0378_zpsdouy7nsf.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/592.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/DSCN0401_zps8rmklmjl.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

All my vehicles are old and it is getting on top of me maintance wise.
The stalwart is leaking a big trail of oil from the central lube tank in side the hull and I have loss interest in finding it as it will be all bad news.
I am learning the stalwart being the last of its breed from Alvis and being a load carrier has much bigger torsion bars and some other suspension components than say a Alvis Saracen( the only parts available in Australia) and some stuff will not interchange.
The only good stuff is the friends who had the Studebaker in my works yard got the vehicle running well and the brakes working so they could use it around their property and I enjoyed helping them do it.
The Studebaker is a complete snack to work with compared to the Stalwart.
Ron.

[Is Vic There]

Chin up Ron, when I get fed up I take a break or have a cup of tea and a minute, some minutes do turn into months but a break is good!
I always restart with a more upbeat attitude, I'm nearly in my 4th year of building a Harris framed Kawasaki motor bike and the set backs I've had have been unreal, the bikes been on eBay twice as I'd had enough!
Just come in from working on it and I have finally sorted out the rear brake and gear change, feel really happy as I've had a win for once and you will as well!

[101 Ron]

Still not much going on with the stalwart.
For every step forward I seem to be taking Two steps backwards.
I have had the hydraulic accelerator master and slave cylinders apart.
I was getting to the stage of pumping the accelerator and getting every little throttle
The slave cylinder has a simple cup in it, but I would have trouble find a replacement in Australia due to the working fluid being oil.
I ended up using just two Quad rings to replace the cup and that seems to be fine and cost effective.
A new boot to cover the end of the cylinder came from a forklift brake master cylinder and a new hose the slave cylinder made.
The accelerator master cylinder I imported a brand new item, but it had been sitting for along time and the seals were shot.
the shaft seals were easy to get 1x 5/8 x 3/16 and the piston seal is a O ring , but not of a size you find in your 0 ring kit.
Again a quad ring from my Quad ring kit came to the rescue.
This inturn caused a problem where the master cylinder wouldn't bleed because the quad ring sealing lip is in a slightly different position to the standard O ring and I had to give the master cylinder piston more return stroke by machining a little bit off a metal stop.
All very simple stuff just trying to get some throttle.
Naturally to figure all this out takes fitting and removing from the vehicle many times.
nothing is easy on a stalwart.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/106.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/107.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/108.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/109.jpg

[101 Ron]

The exhaust side of things I am getting no where as my new welder is still not working for various reasons, so I give up trying to weld it my self only to be told my local bloke I use for TIG welding is so busy he cannot look at it for month.
Grrrrrrr !


My worse suspicions are true when the Stalwart dropped a great quantity of black gear oil out of the hull drains when I moved it today..........seals need replacing on the bevel boxes meaning ,crane, fuel, hydraulic tanks and a whole lot of other stuff to come out of the vehicle to access...... and is more work than what I can handle a present.
Ron

[101 Ron]

while I am down in the dumps I will post some pics of what could be at the end of the tunnel.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/47.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/48.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/49.jpg

[101 Ron]

Some more pics
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/44.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/45.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/46.jpg

[101 Ron]

These are of the same vehicle.
It is Salamander fire fighter first converted to a beach tour bus and then into a fun toy.
It is not amphibious, but is a close relation of the stalwart and would be water tight up to the top of the wheels.
It also has higher ratio diff giving a 50 mph or more top speed, but still has the low ratio of the stalwart using a preselector gearbox.
the salamander has a higher horse power spec motor.....higher compression, different cam and revs a bit harder.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/40.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/41.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/42.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/43.jpg

[Homestar]

Hang in there Ron, I can't imagine the frustration you're feeling but you only have to look back over this thread to see how much you've accomplished on the big beasty. I'm sure you'll get to swim it at some point. :)

As always, I love reading the updates you post, keep up the good work - huge pity about the bevel box seals. After sticking my head in it for a look, I shudder to think of the amount of work involved in replacing them. :(

[Brute]

Yes keep plugging away Ron, love the up dates. Brings back memories of watching the Stalwarts in the heavy vehicle trials in the uk as a young fellow. Even got a short voyage across a pond in one once. A truly awesome piece of Engineering

[101 Ron]

Funny how a simple thing like a exhaust pipe leak can lead you off in a completely different direction.
I was fixing the exhaust to stop the amber warning light from melting.
New tail pipes finished and trial fitted.
I could have left things there, I could see rust and corruption inside the exhaust box and some simple plates that need replacing .
Also there is a large rust hole though the hull at the bilge pump pipe were it goes though the exhaust box which I found early in the piece.
To remove the top of the exhaust box from the body requires disturbing the tail gate and side door water tight rubber seals and many broken , rusted UNF threaded bolts later with swearing and spanner throwing.
The end of the tail and side gate seals point upwards vertically with open ends, which means they hold rain water at the lower sections in side and behind the seals causing rust.

[101 Ron]

It was a days work to free things up and disassemble.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/616.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/H3FJ6t)DSCN0443 (https://flic.kr/p/H3FJ6t) by


[url=https://flic.kr/p/HYsvCM]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/617.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/)DSCN0444 (https://flic.kr/p/HYsvCM) by



[url=https://flic.kr/p/Hy18Q9]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/618.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/)DSCN0445 (https://flic.kr/p/Hy18Q9) by https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/619.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/


[url=https://flic.kr/p/J7eWFF)DSCN0446 (https://flic.kr/p/J7eWFF) by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/HFJTq9]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/620.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/)DSCN0447 (https://flic.kr/p/HFJTq9) by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/HXsBYf]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/621.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/)DSCN0448 (https://flic.kr/p/HXsBYf) by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/]

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/612.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HFKdf3)DSCN0449 (https://flic.kr/p/HFKdf3) by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/HXsW8b]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/613.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/)DSCN0450 (https://flic.kr/p/HXsW8b) by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/HXv2ZC]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/614.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/)DSCN0451 (https://flic.kr/p/HXv2ZC) by

[url=https://flic.kr/p/HbrR2T]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/615.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/)DSCN0452 (https://flic.kr/p/HbrR2T) by [url=

[101 Ron]

I all ways knew there was cancer in the muffler box.
Access is poor and I didn't know the extent of it.
It turns out the stalwart has a little bit of a design problem.
The rust in the muffler box can lead to sinking the vehicle if swum and generally extending the rust along a rear body cross member.
I was toying with the idea at one stage to swim my stalwart by just doing a very quick patch over job on the rust holes.
I am glad I didn't as my Stalwart would have sunk in short order by the muffler box and in a unexpected way via water entering a rear cross member and then into the hull.
The muffler box on a Stalwart is not part of the hull and the effect of red hot mufflers burning off paint and water causes rust.
I have started cutting of a few previous patches and corroded metal , which was rust welded on rust and getting things sorted for fresh metal correctly done.
The mufflers and pipes will have to come out as the mufflers must be water tight to stop drowning the motor if swum and the mufflers have cracks and holes in them.
Most bolts are rusted and are just snapping off.
I am going to fit a door to the side of the muffler box as painting and inspection of this area is so important for swimming.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/127.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/J6MSe1)DSCN0453 (https://flic.kr/p/J6MSe1) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/123.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JpBKE2)DSCN0458 (https://flic.kr/p/JpBKE2) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/124.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Jwq1EZ)DSCN0457 (https://flic.kr/p/Jwq1EZ) by
Note the alloy construction of the tail gate and the brackets that hold a ladder and free board extension.
The alloy tail and side gates are hollow double skin and are designed to float and have test ports to pressure test between the skins as to check for cracks or leaks.

john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/125.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/J6N7nG)DSCN0456 (https://flic.kr/p/J6N7nG) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/126.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HAeME2)DSCN0455 (https://flic.kr/p/HAeME2) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

The four bolt holes above hold the centre tailgate pivot bracket, but the front towing hook can be removed and installed on the rear of the vehicle using these bolt holes.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/120.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Jntf3f)DSCN0461 (https://flic.kr/p/Jntf3f) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/121.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JntjWy)DSCN0460 (https://flic.kr/p/JntjWy) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/122.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Jtkc1Y)DSCN0464 (https://flic.kr/p/Jtkc1Y) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/115.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JpCyj4)DSCN0463 (https://flic.kr/p/JpCyj4) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/116.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JntaCU)DSCN0462 (https://flic.kr/p/JntaCU) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/117.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JtkqRy)DSCN0467 (https://flic.kr/p/JtkqRy) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickrhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/118.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JwqEUK)DSCN0466 (https://flic.kr/p/JwqEUK) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickrhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/119.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JtkjWY)DSCN0470 (https://flic.kr/p/JtkjWY) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[Homestar]

Wow, that's not something I would of expected. Shows that there's no shortcuts doing something like this. More hard work ahead by the looks of it.

[101 Ron]

In the above photos the rods and bell cranks are for the water jet steering buckets.
The left-hand side of the vehicle will not have the same problem as there is not a red hot exhaust, only the tool box and radiator header tank, both of which are water tight and apart of the hull proper.
The holes in the cross member are for access for the bolts which hold on the tailgate rubber seals.
When finished I should be able fill that cross member with fish oil or add drain plugs to drain any water instead of holding it.
The steel used above the vehicles waste line is thin and appears to be mild steel.
Below the waste line the steel is thick and is a low carbon steel which tends not to rust very much.............in fact the lower hull is in perfect condition.

[101 Ron]

Mufflers are now out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1016.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JLT8Yt)DSCN0485 (https://flic.kr/p/JLT8Yt) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr



I am thinking of wrapping the mufflers in something like asbestos to try and stop the intense heat burning the muffler box and paint.

The raw fuel from the Rolls Royce 8 and the cherry red mufflers create the famous stalwart back fire..............sounds like a loud shot gun and anyone with in 50 mtrs gets poo in the pants very quick.

[101 Ron]

The exhaust system on the stalwart goes cherry red when the old girl is working hard.
The heat is bad for any paint work
This picture shows the double ball coupling of the exhaust from the exhaust manifold and the Two quick release stainless steel clamps.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1015.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Jm5Qyu)DSCN0487 (https://flic.kr/p/Jm5Qyu) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

The above short balled pipe goes though this double hulled section of the vehicle.
The engines exhaust manifold outlet can just been seen.
Why you would want to use a sealed double hull on this sort of vehicle is beyond me.
The outer exhaust is held on via 1/2 UNF bolts....naturally the heat locked the fine threads and the die grinder had to save the day.......I still will have to heli coil the threads.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1014.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HQEsFY)DSCN0490stalwart (https://flic.kr/p/HQEsFY) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

This is the lower forward inside of the muffler box and the main reason I needed to get the mufflers out so I can replace the non existent metal.
The main bilge pump pipes and flanges goes here and must be water tight.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1013.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HQDZ9U)DSCN0489 (https://flic.kr/p/HQDZ9U) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Muffler heat shield is going to be replaced in stainless steel
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1011.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JE4hqg)DSCN0501stalwart (https://flic.kr/p/JE4hqg) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1012.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Jm5TW1)DSCN0486 (https://flic.kr/p/Jm5TW1) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

I have stainless steel angle folded the same is the originals and the radius strips which hold the tailgate door sealing rubbers.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1008.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JLTjdM)DSCN0502 (https://flic.kr/p/JLTjdM) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
The above radius strips, some will need to be curved to 90 degrees and I will have to make some sort of jig to work in my small press to do this.( I have not figured out how yet.)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1009.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JBQ2bN)DSCN0503 (https://flic.kr/p/JBQ2bN) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1010.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JBPZpb)DSCN0504 (https://flic.kr/p/JBPZpb) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr


Just got to find some time and weather to make it all happen.

[Don 130]

Someone else may come along with a better idea, but I reckon rolling would get those S/S angles curved for the corner sections.
Don.

[101 Ron]

Check between the 8 to 10 minute marks of this you tube video.
Luckily someone else has shown me the way.
The problem I have is my choice of using stainless steel which will make things harder to bend without losing the curved cross section profile shape...........time will tell.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=l71eJe6M3Ow

[schuy1]

I suspect the bit where they are attempting to fix bits while hanging upside down and he says Mr Stolly is not my friend strikes a chord with you? :D Hang in there Ron, you know its going to get better one day!

[101 Ron]

I have not posted in a long while because not much has been happening with the stalwart.
My other vehicles have been in use taking what little time and money I have.
What work has been done has been on the mufflers.
I planned only to do a simple patch repair to the bottom of them, but they turned out to be paper thin top to bottom.
The internal baffles etc were OK.
The option of replacing them in Stainless steel is not affordable currently, but I have plenty of 2mm zinc coated steel and wire in the MIG welder.
The plates that support the mufflers have been remade in stainless steel and it is a clever set up which well supports them, but also allows movement for heat expansion.
The blind bolt holes in the hull of the Stalwart where the exhaust goes have been heli coiled.
The mufflers are not really mufflers, but spark arrestors.
The motor when run with out any exhaust system is not excessively loud.
The local Barbeque/wood fire heater place provided very high temp paint for the exhaust system and the mufflers will be wrapped with insulation for a wood fire chimney to stop the paint burning of the side of the outer muffler box.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/540.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/N58ctG)DSCN0607 (https://flic.kr/p/N58ctG) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/541.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MawcJk)DSCN0608 (https://flic.kr/p/MawcJk) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/538.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MZDNFF)DSCN0614 (https://flic.kr/p/MZDNFF) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/539.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MEZWxf)DSCN0615 (https://flic.kr/p/MEZWxf) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/536.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/N58peL)DSCN0641 (https://flic.kr/p/N58peL) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/537.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MWZtPw)DSCN0642 (https://flic.kr/p/MWZtPw) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

The Two pictures below are.

1/ The prototype Stalwart based on the Salamander firefighter.
Because of its looks it was called the "Beastie"
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/534.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MZDGqe)JS25809114 (https://flic.kr/p/MZDGqe) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

2/ The second picture is at "Alvis" Holly Rd factory test tank.
Note the concrete test weights in the Back of the Stalwart.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/535.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/N8dqcD)JS25790291stalwart alvis test tank holyhead rd (https://flic.kr/p/N8dqcD) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Just another up date.
Things are still moving forward on the Stalwart, but only just.
Time , money and will power is not my friend.
The missus has got me going away again this Christmas is so the up coming Christmas break will not give me that time I need with a few beers in hand.
I have been playing with the alloy tailgate, just stripping paint.
I am working out how to get together a pressure tester for the tail and side gates to check them after they have been welded.
The tailgate is also slightly bent and I have to find a way to straighten it without cracking the alloy.
I am now up to MK 2 stainless steel strip bending press and about to work on MK 3 which will have to be done properly and not made from scrap steel and pieces.
What I do know I can bend the stainless strip the way I want it to and keep its shape.......one of my problems was my bending press didn't allow for spring back of the metal and once pressed it becomes impossible to remove it.
My next press will have to be a bolt together design which allows the internal shape of it to be adjusted as required and the stainless strip to be removed.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/758.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MQHgSW)DSCN0644 (1) (https://flic.kr/p/MQHgSW) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/759.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MQJ2KA)DSCN0657 (https://flic.kr/p/MQJ2KA) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/760.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/NtMXZL)DSCN0663 (https://flic.kr/p/NtMXZL) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/755.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/NKo7P7)DSCN0660 (https://flic.kr/p/NKo7P7) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/756.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/NL39RJ)DSCN0661 (https://flic.kr/p/NL39RJ) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/757.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/NtMXE7)DSCN0664 (https://flic.kr/p/NtMXE7) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Went and purchased some 6mm steel plate.
I made MK 3 stainless steel tailgate rubber retaining strip bending jig which works very well in my small hydraulic press.
This time I shaped the internal side of it using proper radius, paper templates ect and not from the old corroded steel bits.
Can bend to 120 degrees if required and the new set up allows for spring back of the stainless strip and is of a bolt together design so the bent strip comes out easily and the internal shape can be changed easier too if required.
The strip bends well without losing its cross ways radius pressed into it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/395.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/P1HTt5)DSCN0666 (https://flic.kr/p/P1HTt5) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickrhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/396.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/NJnP1b)DSCN0665 (https://flic.kr/p/NJnP1b) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[Disco-tastic]

Far out Ron. Thats pretty amazing. I would have no idea how to do that. Keep it up! Its awesome reading [emoji106]

[101 Ron]

Well it been along time since I have done a progress report.
The fact is the stalwart has been winning and not me.
This summer on the lower East coast of Australia has been one of our hottest for along while.
If it hasn't been 40c degree temps with high humidity , its been rain.
The Stalwart is parked out side and I have to work in the elements.
Not much fun when I have to sweat it out for my normal work, let alone to work on the stalwart after work.
The tail gate is around at a marine place( who is flat-out and the tailgate is in a queue)
The top edge of the tailgate is going to get a square alloy strengthening tube welded to its top edge.
I was planning something similar for the inside of it ,as the inner sheet of it moving and popping.
The marine place thinks they can do some alloy spot welding, as the alloy was just dropping away under heat trying to weld in the inner strengthening bars.
Some more stainless steel strip has been cut and a radius pressed into it as before, as I now realise I need great quantity and now in two different sizes.
Removal of the rubber sealing from the tailgate reviled the strip which holds it into place is smaller than what's on the vehicle itself and the strip removed is in poor condition.
It also means my little bending jig for this strip has to be reworked so it now can handle two different thickness strips and radius.
Some patching of the rear RHS muffler box has been going on, but not much.
Also trying the idea of a swing open door for the muffler box........I am going to do this, but I now decided it needs to be larger than the one in the following pics.
Ron

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/522.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/PGSdfB)DSCN0706 (https://flic.kr/p/PGSdfB) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/521.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/PGSfjX)DSCN0707 (https://flic.kr/p/PGSfjX) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

The above shows the little plate now welded over hollow tube which runs the width of the rear of the vehicle to stop water getting though and flooding the vehicle when swimming...........I am going to work things a little bit different to keep the strength in the muffler box.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/520.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SSuAgV)20170312_111403 (https://flic.kr/p/SSuAgV) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Muffler box access door MK 1

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/519.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/RCxByZ)20170312_153829 (https://flic.kr/p/RCxByZ) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

A bit more plating.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/518.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ShDeb9)20170312_153838 (https://flic.kr/p/ShDeb9) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/517.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SCJp9s)20170312_155218 (https://flic.kr/p/SCJp9s) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/516.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SCJoMW)20170312_155250 (https://flic.kr/p/SCJoMW) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

The stalwart hasn't moved in awhile, but I do keep the batteries charged and run the motor once a month just to stop the dry sump tank leaking down over time and over filling the engine crankcase.
The old B81 rolls is surprisingly quiet running with no exhaust.
I still have along way to go on the muffler box........cancer is everywhere I look.
A spray paint air pressure regulator and hoses has been set up to pressure test the tailgate though its test port when it returns to check for leaks.
I will reuse the same rig for the air pressurisation of the hubs and drive line if I ever get thing big silly thing swimming.
Ron

[101 Ron]

Still plugging away at the muffler box.
Weather is better now
Still waiting for the tailgate to be finished at the local marine place.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/788.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/THHG22)DSCN0028 (https://flic.kr/p/THHG22) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
Note larger stainless steel side door so I can get my head inside to weld stuff.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/789.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/T8FaQd)DSCN0031 (https://flic.kr/p/T8FaQd) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/790.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SrctHY)DSCN0029 (https://flic.kr/p/SrctHY) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/791.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/T8Fab7)DSCN0033 (https://flic.kr/p/T8Fab7) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Got some more parts coming soon.
I cannot find the correct reflectors.......most likely a UK only item.
the plastic is on the way out.
What I am doing is replacing the plastic with turned aluminum and reusing the centre red part of the reflector .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/787.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TFTaoF)DSCN0027 (https://flic.kr/p/TFTaoF) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Managed to knock off work a little bit early and got this done.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/784.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TtW9cf)DSCN0034 (https://flic.kr/p/TtW9cf) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

The above shows the new metal in place to be welded.........the wire is so it can be held in position.
I couldn't use a welding mask as there is no room for it, so its a matter of closing the eyes and guessing you are welding in the right spot. ( I now have a new sun tan)
I couldn't use a angle grinder to clean up my work as there was not enough room.
A air die grinder with tungsten carbide cutter was used.
The cancer on the left is the next step.......I will most likely cut it out with the plasma cutter.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/785.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TEfnA7)DSCN0035 (https://flic.kr/p/TEfnA7) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Below is the other side of that cancer
It must be water tight.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/786.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/THHFkH)DSCN0030 (https://flic.kr/p/THHFkH) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
Back to the grind stone.
Ron

[101 Ron]

Though you may like these new Stalwart Youtubes


Alvis Stalwart March 17 clip 1 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J02dhYaDUVQ)



Alvis Stalwart March 17 clip 2 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghClrUy78Ww)


Two Alvis Stalwarts swimming at Wartime in the Vale 2015 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmyeKH5eZMg)

[101 Ron]

While I have been waiting for my tailgate to be finished, I made a Jack pad for the Stalwarts CES , I had the original specs to make one.
Alloy version of the reflectors just need painting now.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/699.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TFMWhb)DSCN0036 (https://flic.kr/p/TFMWhb) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/700.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/THEyQ5)DSCN0044 (https://flic.kr/p/THEyQ5) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/701.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Sxv6jX)DSCN0045 (https://flic.kr/p/Sxv6jX) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Plasma cutter has been a little busy at the cancer.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/702.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SuRKWW)DSCN0046 (https://flic.kr/p/SuRKWW) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/703.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SuRKff)DSCN0047 (https://flic.kr/p/SuRKff) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[Andy130]

what an epic project. hats off.

[101 Ron]

My parts arrived.
The main thing is the Saracen transfercase.
This transfercase is very different from the one in the Stalwart ,but the drop down gears inside will interchange.
When the gears are fitted to the Stalwart it will increase its top speed and decrease fuel burn.
The forward/reverse design of the transfercase means pressure lubrication is needed and therefore a internal oil pressure pump.
The oil pump on the Saracen transfercase is driven from the input shaft, while the stalwarts transfercase oil pump is driven by a separate, special shaft from the main gear box..........when ever the engine runs on the Stalwart the transfercase is being lubed, but on the Saracen is only being lubed with the vehicle moving.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/685.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TdTnsN)DSCN0051 (https://flic.kr/p/TdTnsN) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/686.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TdToKh)DSCN0050 (https://flic.kr/p/TdToKh) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/687.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TdTptb)DSCN0048 (https://flic.kr/p/TdTptb) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

I have been collecting gear for the vehicles CES
Below is a suit case funnel which not a normal part of the Stalwarts CES , but works well if you fill from the cargo area with the funnel on the cabin roof and the filler cap is only a short distance from the top of the cabin roof.
The stalwart petrol filler is 3 mtrs from the ground to stop water entering when swimming.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/683.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SwqHJC)DSCN0052 (https://flic.kr/p/SwqHJC) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Below British oil filler can and a Wheel brace.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/682.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TNXBgT)stalwart wheel brace and oil tinDSCN0053 (https://flic.kr/p/TNXBgT) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Below a period hand grease gun and a new interior light for the cabin.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/681.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TNXzJV)DSCN0054 (https://flic.kr/p/TNXzJV) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Period tool bag and I purchased another inter vehicle starting lead........this time with angled heads which better suits the Stalwart.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/679.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SwqGbs)DSCN0055 (https://flic.kr/p/SwqGbs) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/680.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TNXyza)DSCN0056 (https://flic.kr/p/TNXyza) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

The below is the correct British Shovel.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/678.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SwqFrm)DSCN0057 (https://flic.kr/p/SwqFrm) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
Ron

[101 Ron]

The suitcase funnel is only something that the British could think up
below is a picture of it folded up and another showing how it is used with twin jerrycans.
If the trough is full of petrol and has not drained out though the hose the jerrys can will not empty until the level drops.
It is supplied with Centurion tanks to quickly fill them , as one jerry can empties, another full one is put in place ready to empty.
Perfect for the Stalwart.............hanging 3mtrs off the side of the Stalwart with one arm while trying pour a jerrycan with the other arm is very difficult.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/676.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TNZPcx)DSCN0059 - Copy (https://flic.kr/p/TNZPcx) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/677.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Tz4wc3)DSCN0058 (https://flic.kr/p/Tz4wc3) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Check out this you tube quickly showing a suit case funnel being used on a Stalwart.Giant Military Truck Test Drive - Alvis Stalwart - With Shane Lynch - YouTube (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=F2OnZmPwQS4)

[101 Ron]

The tail gate is finally back nice and straight.
It now has a extra alloy square tube on its top edge to strengthen it.
The inner alloy sheet has been spot welded to the outer sheet to stop the inner sheet from popping and moving.
The large British safety corner reflectors were just pop riveted to the outer sheet of the tailgate and not very water tight, letting water in between the two sheets.
This has been solved by welding on alloy plates to hold the large reflectors, or signage, like similar Australian, don't over take turning vehicle sign.
Plates were also welded to the top corners for future use.
The tailgate on a Stalwart gets a hard time as rear vision is so poor and parking is done by brail.
Having the tailgate back will let me work on the stalwart in poor weather inside and during the short winter days ahead as the strips that hold the sealing rubbers need to be remade.
Painting the whole thing and fitting new sealing rubbers will take some time as well.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/324.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SQLibw)DSCN0076 (https://flic.kr/p/SQLibw) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/325.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SQLhFd)DSCN0077 (https://flic.kr/p/SQLhFd) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/326.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SQLho9)DSCN0078 (https://flic.kr/p/SQLho9) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

A pic of the finished red safety reflector now mostly made from alloy, looks good.
When this reflector is screwed back onto the muffler box , it should be able to with stand the heat much better.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/321.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TThAVs)DSCN0079 (https://flic.kr/p/TThAVs) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Also made a little progress on that rustly muffler box, about another full days work welding and grinding should see it ready to go back together.
One lot of rust fixed and another Two found.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/322.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/U4zVPu)DSCN0083 (https://flic.kr/p/U4zVPu) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr.

While I have the local marine place interested I will get them to fabricate all the alloy pieces for the free board extension which is stored in the slots on the inside edge of the tailgate and unfolded and fitted to another slot on top of the tailgate and rear body of the vehicle for when it is leaving the water fully loaded or up a river bank of more than 30 degrees.
Luckily I have the specs and dimensions for this.
The pic below is the other side of the same patch......it still needs to be ground back and finished off.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/323.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TVDpWD)DSCN0084 (https://flic.kr/p/TVDpWD) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Part of the structure is hollow and rusted in the past as water found its way in.
After sealing it I tend to drill a small hole in the top and inject fish oil and tar mixture.
I now know a little bit more about the markings on the Stalwart when I first got it.
The Union jack front and rear was a NATO requirement when Two or more NATO countries were operating together.
On the opposite side was a red over blue Square which I under stand to mean royal artillery which all ties in with this Stalwart being a gun limber model and based in Germany BAOR.
The painted markings is the British version of Australian army Tax signs and holders some thing which I didn't pick up on until now.
I must endeavour to repaint the British markings at some stage.

[chazza]

...
After sealing it I tend to drill a small hole in the top and inject fish oil and tar mixture.
...

Don't waste your money on fish-oil; use Penetrol instead.

I did a 12 month test of various rust preventers in my garden, including fish-oil. After 12 months, the only test panel which looked the same as when it started, was the Penetrol one,

Cheers Charlie

[Homestar]

That's a nice collection of bits you're starting to gather. :)

Great to see things continuing on - it looked like you were a bit over it at one stage. always like it when you post up new stuff you've done. :)

[101 Ron]

This is from another site....(Amphiclopedia)...many years ago from a stalwart owner.





more a poem than a mail. :)

This wonderful green six wheel monster.

Weather it be:
replacing wheel stations,
replacing main gearboxes,
repairing transfer box seals,
lifting the engine out and back in again,
matching up tyres,
replacing the exhaust systems,
changing gearbox oil,
watching wheel wind up.


What ever it may be I will always love my stolly.
I knew what was involved
when I bought it and I can say:

I have enjoyed every minute working on it.
Come on guys its a Stalwart,
you either love it or you don't.

There is nothing more exiting than dropping in to a nice calm lake engaging the jets and pulling that hand throttle back to 3000 rpm and listen to it sing.

This vehicle will never die, it will sail into a never ending sunset.
Simon



Gotta throw different things into this thread to keep it interesting...........( but strangely all the different features and engineering of the vehicle keeps it interesting too)( nothing is built like the stalwart)......... .......if wasn't for this little fan club thread site keeping me going I think I would have burnt the big silly thing along time ago now.
I knew it was going to be hard on me time and money wise and there is the challenge ....Corowa the year of the amphibian is Two years away??????????? slight chance ?????????? may be?????
I am lucky in two ways
1/ I have the tools and equipment to handle the Stalwart.........a big socket set and a engine lifter just will not hack it .
2/ I have some of the skills needed.

Ron

[101 Ron]

Tailgate now has new stainless steel retaining strips for the rubber seals made.
just using stainless steel 1/4 UNF bolts into the retaining strip which I threaded to take them.
This means the bolts heads are not welded in place.
then the bolt heads are ground down to reduce the profile.
grey etching primer first coat and then red oxide sprayed shortly afterwards.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1041.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/T8o3Jh)DSCN0095 (https://flic.kr/p/T8o3Jh) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1042.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/T8nJe1)DSCN0093 (https://flic.kr/p/T8nJe1) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1043.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TPMMoW)DSCN0101 (https://flic.kr/p/TPMMoW) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1038.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TPMLxh)DSCN0103 (https://flic.kr/p/TPMLxh) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1039.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/T8nRM7)DSCN0104 (https://flic.kr/p/T8nRM7) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1039.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/T8nRM7)DSCN0104 (https://flic.kr/p/T8nRM7) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

I am not getting too fussy about the finish of the paint work as it will get knocked around refitting the tailgate and finishing off the truck in general.
A time saver with working on the stalwart out side is placing the MIG and Plasma cutter , grinder and general tools on a pallet and using a forklift to move it all round as required and at the correct height for the job in hand.
I just wheel it all back inside the shop when finish work on the stalwart.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1040.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Uh3g8A)DSCN0096 (https://flic.kr/p/Uh3g8A) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[Don 130]

You're doing a great job, I enjoy seeing your progress with this fascinating monster. Keep up the good work. I second the penetrol recommendation.
Don.

[Homestar]

Looks great Ron, how bad are the sides compared to the tailgate? How long before you think it's watertight? You'll need a big bathtub to test that.... :D

[101 Ron]

Looks great Ron, how bad are the sides compared to the tailgate? How long before you think it's watertight? You'll need a big bathtub to test that.... :D

The test bath tub is the Shoalhaven river.
Still plenty of rust to sort out.
Forward of the muffler box and the rear most side gate hinge area needs extensive reworking because of rust,but access will be much easier.
Small rust holes easy to get at both sides above the wheels up to the back of the cab occur.
The back of the body where the tail gate seals are needs to be finished off and the left-hand side near the rear tool box is corroded.
To be truthful I really don't know exactly how much rust I still have to tackle..
The left side rear of the vehicle.......Is the tool box and radiator header tank compartment needs to opened up treated,painted etc..........But appears to be in reasonable condition.
The area between the double hull where I can access with the exhaust out of it has corroded due to heat and water, but the metal is thick..........No replacement of steel,just hard to access to paint and treat.
Along way to go..................When I think it's ready you can be assured I will drive to 13 km down the road to swim it.
Right-hand side steering bucket linkage needs to be freed up properly and water jet impeller bearings lubed and hope bearings seals are OK.
If I was retired and not working for my self things would be moving quicker.
What I have noticed over seas Stalwart projects owned by normal income individuals seldom get completed and they have access to more spare parts and other old wreck's for parts.
What have I done ?

[Mick_Marsh]

What have I done ?
Taken on a second marriage.

[101 Ron]

Taken on a second marriage.

I think something like 50% of marriages in Australia end in divorce.

Even though we are currently having short winter days, the weather has been kind on Sundays which I have also had free from other things.
That means some stuff is getting done.
I am having a rethink on the alloy tailgate, and after the square top extra strengthening tube is looking good and working well I will take the tailgate back to the marine place and get the same done to the bottom as well.
it will further help straighten the tailgate and hide various dents and damage.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/690.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TYK7Af)DSCN0124 (https://flic.kr/p/TYK7Af) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Much of this thread is just going to be about cutting out rust and welding in new plates for a while as there is much to be done.......boring stuff.

the pic below is before
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/691.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UjAUCq)DSCN0120 (https://flic.kr/p/UjAUCq) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

This one below is after.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/692.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Uva4wC)DSCN0123 (https://flic.kr/p/Uva4wC) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Just forward of this area is this pic below
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/693.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ThnF63)DSCN0122 (https://flic.kr/p/ThnF63) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
Plenty of rust holes to sort out yet..
On the vertical edge in that pic are more holes which cannot be seen and the side gate hinge bracket is slightly out of alignment and the rubber side gate seals etc which give me more work..........easier to do it now with the muffler box apart.

[Gordie]

Farmer offers troop carrier for sale as farm vehicle | Stuff.co.nz (http://www.stuff.co.nz/business/farming/92178219/farmer-offers-troop-carrier-for-sale-as-farm-vehicle)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/689.jpg

[101 Ron]

For something that was designed in 1960 the Alvis Stalwart is very futuristic for its age.
It always reminds me of the Thunderbird kids show which I enjoyed very much as a kid and one of those scenes where the special purpose truck or vehicle is on the narrow road with the road way slowly giving way to a deep drop to the valley below.
Below are some Stalwarts converted for movie or advertising work.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/684.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TYMgX7)alvis (https://flic.kr/p/TYMgX7) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/685.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Tkfh6R)filmstar505 alvis (https://flic.kr/p/Tkfh6R) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/686.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TYMgPb)filmstar506 alvis (https://flic.kr/p/TYMgPb) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/687.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UjCQch)filmstar507 alvis (https://flic.kr/p/UjCQch) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
This one below is to sell lipstick.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/688.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TYMgH9)pink alvis (https://flic.kr/p/TYMgH9) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Another progress report.
I have now lost the good weather of working on the stalwart thanks to winter.
The tail gate is now back with another alloy square tube welded to its lower edge and then repainted etc.
A new rubber seal has been fitted to the tailgate.......a long slow job.
The space between the double hull where the exhaust system runs though the hull has painted in high temp paint and then red oxide........another long slow job working though a small hole.
Still chasing rust .......now just forward of the muffler box.
Muffler box is now painted inside and out and again high temp stove paint where needed.
I need to find a way of bending a radius , leg out into stainless steel angle.
Been looking into making some sort of rolling machine using forklift mast rollers.
I expect there will be a unwanted secondary bend induced some how.......any ideas in a better way of doing it with the brains trust.
Ron

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/424.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Utcsnv)DSCN0138 (https://flic.kr/p/Utcsnv) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/425.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UqgsYu)DSCN0148 (https://flic.kr/p/UqgsYu) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/426.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UqgrNJ)DSCN0149 (https://flic.kr/p/UqgrNJ) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/427.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UqgrkE)DSCN0150 (https://flic.kr/p/UqgrkE) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/420.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ViGQFd)DSCN0212 (https://flic.kr/p/ViGQFd) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/421.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ViGQFo)DSCN0213 (https://flic.kr/p/ViGQFo) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/422.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ViGQG5)DSCN0214 (https://flic.kr/p/ViGQG5) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/423.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UTBeEU)DSCN0211 (https://flic.kr/p/UTBeEU) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/415.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VtMUKi)DSCN0193 (https://flic.kr/p/VtMUKi) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

The pic above is where I need the bent stainless steel angle.




Some more old Pics of stalwarts.........in Singapore ??????


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/416.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ToeLDN)img0106 (https://flic.kr/p/ToeLDN) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/417.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ToeLHA)img0104 (https://flic.kr/p/ToeLHA) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/418.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ToeLFS)img0105 (https://flic.kr/p/ToeLFS) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Just one more pic
I am improving sealing on the exhaust system though the hull by using high temp fibre glass rope and high temp glue instead of metal to metal with gaps and It should reduce the stalwarts habit of doing a big back fire every now and then.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/419.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VefAF5)DSCN0190 (https://flic.kr/p/VefAF5) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[Ancient Mariner]

Ron if I understand correctly you need a fixed former the diam of the bend you need and a roller pivoted in the center that follows your former around .Just clamp the end of work and pull your roller round

AM

[Don 130]

An engineering shop with a rolling gear will be able to roll the angle toe out for you. The mob I worked for 35 years ago(now gone), could do that sort of stuff. An enquiry at any engineering shop will probably get you the details of someone who can do it if they can't.
Don.

[101 Ron]

Ron if I understand correctly you need a fixed former the diam of the bend you need and a roller pivoted in the center that follows your former around .Just clamp the end of work and pull your roller round

AM

Yeah that could work and simple to make.
I have been doing a little bit of research into this.......one problem I will have is it will not bend cleanly and the angle tends to twist.
Checking out machines that bend angle iron, usually have secondary rollers set up to slightly twist the angle in another plane as the main bend is being put in.
Just thinking with the above set up.......may be if the roller going over the former had a 2mm slot in it to keep the angled stainless steel straight?????????

[101 Ron]

An engineering shop with a rolling gear will be able to roll the angle toe out for you. The mob I worked for 35 years ago(now gone), could do that sort of stuff. An enquiry at any engineering shop will probably get you the details of someone who can do it if they can't.
Don.

I seriously looked into a proper roller bending machine from Machinery Warehouse......out of my reach currently and hard to justify the expense when I would only need to bend about three pieces.
In Nowra I have so far only located one roller bender machine and getting the bend just right when the job is off site would be hard.

[Ancient Mariner]

As long as your following roller is a tight fit on both legs I think you will be happy I built a set up to bend my yacht port hole frames out off 1x1/4" 316 ss angle with the leg in it took abit of stuffing around getting the right profile on the formers due to the fillit on the inside of the angle but worked out perfect in the end .Pic of1x1/8"gal angle leg out used for inside furniture framing

Noel

[chazza]

The cheap way to bend the angle, is to stretch the flange in your photo - which sits against the body - on an anvil using a stretching hammer. If you don't have a stretching hammer, a cross-pein woodwork hammer works well. Being stainless, it will take a fair bit of hammering, but it will bend. It may need to be heated to red heat occasionally to stop it cracking, but this depends on the alloy being used.

Have a look on Youtube for, stretching a flange with a hammer,

Cheers Charlie

[101 Ron]

More rust holes repaired.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/167.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VQwPzd)DSCN0236 (https://flic.kr/p/VQwPzd) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/168.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VGxp76)DSCN0235 (https://flic.kr/p/VGxp76) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/169.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VQwPzU)DSCN0238 (https://flic.kr/p/VQwPzU) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/170.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VQwPAf)DSCN0239 (https://flic.kr/p/VQwPAf) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/162.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VQwPBC)DSCN0241 (https://flic.kr/p/VQwPBC) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/163.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VQwPzy)DSCN0237 (https://flic.kr/p/VQwPzy) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/164.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VQwPAL)DSCN0240 (https://flic.kr/p/VQwPAL) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/165.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UErPkF)DSCN0242 (https://flic.kr/p/UErPkF) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
The battle continues.
On the pic above the side gate hinge bracket has to be realigned with a bit of help from the porta power and the welding finished off and ground back..........the welding on the above plate is a bit rough as the metal is thin and rusty and the MIG did a bit of filling.
I use .9mm wire instead of .8mm or smaller at normal amps as I find the thicker MIG wire is better for filling rusty gaps and just using a touch welding method.
The new plates are welded both sides where possible , full penetration of the joint gap is achieved and then ground back flush.
I use a large tungsten carbide cutters on a air die grinder tool to smooth welds in tight areas .

[101 Ron]

Alvis Stalwart "Stolly" - A relationship never forgotten "BAOR" - YouTube (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vqagNnnVBCc)

[ric2]

Hi Ron,

Just wanted to add my thanks for a fantastic thread!
I am in the UK, but have just bought one of the last MK1 stollys which has a factory fitted winch, the same or similar to yours. bought the stolly then read your thread, maybe I should have read it first!
Hope you get to swim yours soon:) mine has all the swim gear removed so I wont have to be so particular about the inevitable holes.

One thing that has sprung into my mind is that the braking characteristics will be different when you get the disconnects working, so might be worth doing a lot of brake testing somewhere that doesn't matter before you venture back onto the roads? At the moment if one wheel locks all the wheels will lock due to the interconnects between the wheels. once the interconnects are removed, each front and back wheel could lock individually and the centre wheels lock together (I am guessing the locker works the other way too), independently of the fronts or rears. just a thought... might not matter but definitely worth testing somewhere safe first.

Once again thank you for such an in depth saga. look forward to reading more

Richard

[101 Ron]

The braking side of things with the disconnects is something I have not thought about too much.
I do know that the high speed (100kph)MK 1 stalwart here in Australia with disconnects has no issues and a stalwart hard under brakes tends to pick up the rear and centre wheels anyhow.
The biggest issue on my MK 2 is getting both brake packs working exactly the same as the brake packs do different front wheels.
None of that is a problem for a MK 1 with a single brake pack.
I like the Mk1 Stalwarts because they are simpler , 2 tonnes lighter and most have been up graded during Army service with many MK 2 features.
The only thing I would look at in owning a MK1 is getting some sort of central lube set up like the Limber Models as it saves a lot of hard work when set up and if you have a hub or bevel box leaking some where , providing you keep the central tank topped up it is not too much of a problem.
Good luck
Ron

[ric2]

The braking side of things with the disconnects is something I have not thought about too much.
I do know that the high speed (100kph)MK 1 stalwart here in Australia with disconnects has no issues and a stalwart hard under brakes tends to pick up the rear and centre wheels anyhow.
The biggest issue on my MK 2 is getting both brake packs working exactly the same as the brake packs do different front wheels.
None of that is a problem for a MK 1 with a single brake pack.
I like the Mk1 Stalwarts because they are simpler , 2 tonnes lighter and most have been up graded during Army service with many MK 2 features.
The only thing I would look at in owning a MK1 is getting some sort of central lube set up like the Limber Models as it saves a lot of hard work when set up and if you have a hub or bevel box leaking some where , providing you keep the central tank topped up it is not too much of a problem.
Good luck
Ron

Hi Ron,
Yes the split braking circuit on the Mk 2 maybe more of an issue, I dont know anything about the locking diff at the moment to comment on how that might help or not. You might find that the split circuit effects are exacerbated when used with the disconnects.
Thank you for the luck:) From just looking round quickly, the body has light surface rust which shouldn`t be too much of an issue, the main area of rust seems to be around the exhaust, similar to yours. but I am going to have to dive straight into both front bevel boxes, and most if not all of the drive shafts/tracta joints etc as most of the boots are split. I will definitely be using the oil dag, as you recommend too.
How does the central oil system work? does the level in the tank correspond to the level in the boxes and joints? sorry very early days for me on this.
Richard

[101 Ron]

The main thing I have noticed with the auto locking diff is you must drive the vehicle smoothly around sharp corners.......... ie round abouts and avoid changing gear in a round about.
The Old B81 Rolls digs down deep enough to do larger round abouts in top gear anyhow.
The auto locking diff is one of the Stalwarts greatest assets off road and makes the vehicle far superior to its amoured cusins.
I know on my 101 Landrover with a auto locking diff, the diff will act a little bit like a anti lock system..
I do not have enough time behind the wheel of the Stalwart to know if it is the same story.

[101 Ron]

On the early mark 1 all the hubs and front/rear bevel boxes are separate units oil wise and have small oil capacity and therefore a undetected leak from ......Say the speedometer drive could cause expensive trouble and the leak would be to the inside of the hull and not noticed.
The separate hubs and bevel boxes have their own breather valve set to vent or relief vacuum at certain pressures.
This can be a source of water entry , especially when swimming.
On the Limbers the round cross the hull brace between the fuel tank and transfer box is converted to a gear oil tank with dip stick and multiple hose outlets to every hub and bevel box and speedometer drive.
There are no breather valves and the breather hoses running to the hubs and bevel boxes are completely filled with gear oil.
There are no air spaces inside the hubs and bevel boxes.
Than means a incredible amount of oil drag and power lost if the oil is cold and many miles driven down the road until the vehicle warms up and becomes alive.
The advantage is a leaking hub is not to much of a big deal if the oil tank is kept topped up, and only one easy to get at top up point.
The tank being higher than every thing else means the oil is gravity supplied.
One other point of the central lube tank I found if the black oil dag is just added to the
tank it still finds its way to every part in short order if the vehicle is used as the whole set up breathes with temperature change of the working oil to and from the tank.

[101 Ron]

The Mark 1 Stalwart here in Australia has a owner who has done a lot of worth while changes.
Which has had up grades with hub breathers inside the hull,done while in army service.
The current owner has removed the breather valves and connected the all the breather pipes to a air tank inside the cabin and a electric air compressor with a pressure regulator set to 5 psi.
The positive pressure is used when swimming to keep water out of the expensive bits and to try and stop the need to change all the gear oils after swimming which is expensive in time and oil used.
If and when I ever get around to sorting out all the problems I have to fix and swim the big silly thing.
I intend to just pressurise my central lube tank to 5 psi , all the hard work plumbing wise has been done for me.

[101 Ron]

The main reason for bevel box oil leaks and failures these days.
1/ 50 year old seals and O rings.(rubber parts, specially the O rings in the suspension pins will not be solid, but in a semi liquid state and not sealing correctly.)
2/ These specialised and unusual vehicles have different features and service requirements and the knowledge of this is not passed on to civilian owners who has purchased one as a play toy on the farm and therefore the vehicle fails when bevel boxes are not topped up or suspension pins not lubricated with the correct oil etc.
3/ The Stalwart can swim or be used in the worse muddy bog hole.....Would a civie farm hand wash the mud from the brake discs or change water contaiminated oils.
Ron

[ric2]

The main thing I have noticed with the auto locking diff is you must drive the vehicle smoothly around sharp corners.......... ie round abouts and avoid changing gear in a round abouts.
The Old B81 Rolls digs down deep enough to do larger round abouts in top gear anyhow.
The auto locking diff is one of the Stalwarts greatest assets off road and makes the vehicle far superior to its amoured cusins.
I know on my 101 Landrover with a auto locking diff, the diff will act a little bit like a anti lock system..
I do not have enough time behind the wheel of the Stalwart to know if it is the same story.

the guy I bought the stolly from said the same thing about corners and changing gear! Looking forward to trying to start the B81 engine for the first time, once oils, filters etc have been changed. im hoping the points are in good enough condition for a start at least, dont fancy doing them as a first job, all sounds a bit fiddly!. Once i know the engine runs, I will get the electronic ignition and do the mods you have carried out.

[ric2]

On the early mark 1 all the hubs and front/rear bevel boxes are separate units oil wise and have small oil capacity and therefore a undetected leak from ......Say the speedometer drive could cause expensive trouble and the leak would be to the inside of the hull and not noticed.
The separate hubs and bevel boxes have their own breather valve set to vent or relief vacuum at certain pressures.
This can be a source of water entry , especially when swimming.
On the Limbers the round cross the hull brace between the fuel tank and transfer box is converted to a gear oil tank with dip stick and multiple hose outlets to every hub and bevel box and speedometer drive.
There are no breather valves and the breather hoses running to the hubs and bevel boxes are completely filled with gear oil.
There are no air spaces inside the hubs and bevel boxes.
Than means a incredible amount of oil drag and power lost if the oil is cold and many miles driven down the road until the vehicle warms up and becomes alive.
The advantage is a leaking hub is not to much of a big deal if the oil tank is kept topped up, and only one top easy to get at top up point.
The tank being higher than every thing else means the oil is gravity supplied.
One other point of the central lube tank I found if the black oil dag is just added to the
tank it still finds its way to every part in short order if the vehicle is used as the whole set up breathes with temperature change of the working oil to and from the tank..

Thank you for explaining how central tank works, much simpler than I thought... couldnt figure out how the tank could get the levels right in every place at the same time, also now makes sense about the drive train drag when cold as there is no air spaces. Is it worth trying a modern multigrade gear oil? might be more relevant for UK climate?
Im pretty sure I have seen some breather pipes going back to the hull, but have not got my head round all the pipework yet to figure out where they all go. if mine does not have the central tank which is most likely, at least I can easily make a central tank to mimic the MK2 set up. Most off the tracta joint boots are completely shot, so I think I am going to have to do each wheel station in turn before I even drive it. I definitely have to do the front bevel boxes straight away as well. I do have lots of spare wheel stations, so i might just refurbish one on the bench to start with and swap them round the vehicle. From the sounds of it there are LH and RH versions, but it seems as if the three on each side are the same except for steering gear/rear wheel brackets? The two front wheel stations seem to be very bad condition. when doing the bevel boxes, I should be able to do the disconnects at the same time.

[ric2]

The main reason for bevel box oil leaks and failures these days.
1/ 50 year old seals and O rings.(rubber parts, specially the O rings in the suspension pins will not be solid, but in a semi liquid state and not sealing correctly.)
2/ These specialised and unusual vehicles have different features and service requirements and the knowledge of this is not passed on to civilian owners who has purchased one as a play toy on the farm and therefore the vehicle fails when bevel boxes are not topped up or suspension pins not lubricated with the correct oil etc.
3/ The Stalwart can swim or be used in the worse muddy bog hole.....Would a civie farm hand wash the mud from the brake discs or change water contaminated oils.
Ron

Hopefully by rebuilding most of the final drive before doing too much will help the longevity with new boots seals etc fitted from the start... do all stalwarts leak or is it possible to have a leak free one??? did I just see a pig flying overhead??
there must be so much lost information and hard won experience that has not made it through the years, although these forums must help to spread what information is known much further than was previously possible, and also with people such as yourself reporting back on all your hard efforts and learnings, there is opportunity for people to access that knowledge.
i have to rebuild all the brake calipers too, and I am assuming the master cylinder will be past its sell by date too. Have you had a caliper apart?

Cheers Richard126001
Sorry for sideways photo... It was the right way up on my laptop!!

[101 Ron]

To the best of my information the wheel stations are the same and the different bits just bolt on.
The bevel boxes are left and right handed.
Just clean the points, don't up set the adjustments on them.( sparkplugs with the original suppressed ignition system are touchie and carbon foul easily and will not self clean)
Front bevel boxes mean removal of hydraulic, fuel tanks ,wheel station and a lot of other stuff.( yes that is the time to fit some sort of disconnect.)
Wheel stations are a lot of work to refit.( you need to make tools to do this job)
You may have taken on more than you can handle.
It took me about 2 weeks crawling over the machine just to learn where everything is and roughly how it worked and I am still learning.
Broken rubber tracta joint boots is not a problem if the main tracta joint seals are not leaking...........the boot only protects the main seals from dirt and mud........if you don't swim or drive off road, it is not too much of a problem.
When the army had large workshops looking after them with properly trained mechanics and drivers and they didn't have 50 years under their belts the Stalwarts were mostly leak free.
Towards the end of their lives in the army the stalwarts were workshop queens.
Mine spent most of its time not turning a wheel and rotting in the weather, others were driven though any mud hole that could be found because it was a stalwart and the government was picking up the petrol and maintance bill so a driver could have some fun.
Ron

[Lewy110]

I was watching your videos during the week.

Now I finally know what it was I saw driving past Bunnings a few years ago[bigsmile]

[ric2]

To the best of my information the wheel stations are the same and the different bits just bolt on.
The bevel boxes are left and right handed.
Just clean the points, don't up set the adjustments on them.( sparkplugs with the original suppressed ignition system are touchie and carbon foul easily and will not self clean)
Front bevel boxes mean removal of hydraulic, fuel tanks and a lot of other stuff.( yes that is the time to fit some sort of disconnect.)
Wheel stations are a lot of work to refit.( you need to make tools to do this job)
You may have taken on more than you can handle.
It took me about 2 weeks crawling over the machine just to learn where everything is and roughly how it worked and I am still learning.
Broken rubber tracta joint boots is not a problem if the main tracta joint seals are not leaking...........the boot only protects the main seals from dirt and mud........if you don't swim or drive off road, it is not too much of a problem.
When the army had large workshops looking after them with properly trained mechanics and drivers and they didn't have 50 years under their belts the Stalwarts were mostly leak free.
Towards the end of their lives in the army the stalwarts were workshop queens.
Mine spent most of its time not turning a wheel and rotting in the weather, others were driven though any mud hole that could be found because it was a stalwart and the government was picking up the petrol and maintance bill so a driver could have some fun.
Ron

It is very probable I have taken on too much!, this maybe my midlife crisis project, as I am 50 in a weeks time... Just thought that if I dont get on and do some of the things I want to do, I will never do it! I have done quite a number of weird projects over the years, putting bigger engines in cars, making convertibles out of 5 door hatchbacks building some race cars etc and designing and making brake upgrades for things like skylines, road cars that are being used for track day cars. Had to get rid of my early (83 I think) 110 V8 station wagon when I got married (fitted 3.9 fuel injected V8 in this with 5 speed santana box... was going to do lots of other things too but ran out of time and money!
I will be making up all the special tools similar to you and do have engine crane and forklift available to me, so hopefully that will help a little.
Will try and post some more pictures when I get the chance. Mine is hull number 139, which was one of the last three mark 1s which were built with a winch from the factory, it will be interesting to see if it has any other Mk2 features once I get into it a bit more.
Cheers
Richard

[101 Ron]

Just another report.
I have been busy looking after my other military toys and they have been taking my time and money.
In this part of the world the days are starting to get longer and the weather warmer, so I am now getting more interest in the stalwart again.
My next job must be to bend that leg out angle stainless steel as I need it in place to finish the muffler off and get the big silly thing driveable again.
Making a bender on the cheap has been proving a challenge.
In a earlier post someone mention using a roller to bend the angle stainless over a former.
It now appears to be a good idea as my way is proving very hard.
The good news is I know I can do a quality bend with effort........I just got to learn how to do it correctly.
The pictures below shows how I was going to use push bike chain and sprockets to drive the lower rollers.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/570.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WBRnUL)DSCN0453 (https://flic.kr/p/WBRnUL) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/571.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WBRnT3)DSCN0440 (https://flic.kr/p/WBRnT3) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
I got it all set up and failed.
The effort to drive the angle though the rollers is enormous and the roller just slipped or the chain broke etc.
A great amount of friction is in the set up because the angle is slid against the non roller backing support which stops the twisting.
The answer was found in not driving the rollers at all, but just hit the angle though with a copper hammer.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/572.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WBRnTy)DSCN0455 (https://flic.kr/p/WBRnTy) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/573.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WBRnVs)DSCN0456 (https://flic.kr/p/WBRnVs) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

I used a piece of cardboard and worked out the radius needed.
Below was my first effort.
The angle must match the radius of the out side edge of the card board.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/576.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WBRnTU)DSCN0452 (https://flic.kr/p/WBRnTU) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr.
Second effort I moved one of the bottom rollers towards the other hoping to tighten the radius of curve.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/577.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XTCZY2)DSCN0458 (https://flic.kr/p/XTCZY2) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

What I ended up with is below.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/578.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XTCZXR)DSCN0457 (https://flic.kr/p/XTCZXR) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

It was not much better.

I am now thinking .........may be a shorter rolling stroke ? to tighten the curve.
I don't want to waste more angle .
The rolled length I worked out from the 90 degree to 90 degree angle from the card board template which should have been right ????
Brains trust go for it.
I am open to ideas

The roller positons on my little bender is adjustable.
Ron

[101 Ron]

Below is some more stalwart porn
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/574.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UZANaJ)alvis stalwart BAOR swimming (https://flic.kr/p/UZANaJ) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/575.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UZANay)in snow Alvis stalwart (https://flic.kr/p/UZANay) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[Homestar]

Not sure how much use it will be to you mate, but many years ago I used to make custom aluminium windows - including arched and round windows. The section we used was quite complex but the roller we used was a home made job that did very well. The aluminium section used to take 10 to 20 runs backwards and forwards through the rollers, tightening the radius up slightly on each pass. If it was too tight it would stop moving through the rollers and you'd have to back it off a bit. Slowly slowly with forming the radius is what worked, but as I said we were rolling aluminium, not stainless, although it was quite a large section compared to what your rolling.

The other thing of note was that the rollers were turned up out of 2" steel bar so that all surfaces of the section were supported - and moving. I think some of your issues may be the back of the section you're trying to bend is rubbing on the stationary part of the roller setup.

I know it's a lot more work but do you have a metal lathe at all? Turning up custom made rollers that's support the outside properly on the lower part and the inside properly on the upper part would help a great deal I think.

This all might be known to you anyway but just thought I'd share my experience with bending metal over the years.

[Don 130]

I have to agree with the previous post. A major engineering Co. I worked for once had a rolling setup for curving angle. All parts of the angle was supported by the roller set as it was trolleyed through backwards and forwards to create the correct radius or radii at the correct spot.
Don.

[101 Ron]

Below took a hour after work today.
I am getting very close.........the angle strip on the left.
Another few runs though the rollers and I should have it.
I had to go though a learning process wether I like it or not.
It is the length of the run though the rollers which determines the radius of the finished curve.
Position,or diameter of the rollers matters little.
I took a guess in 1960s English thinking and thought exactly one Foot is easy for some one to measure and remember for the time and the good news is it was one foot.
I need to make a few more pieces of curved leg out angle.
Doing it in stainless made things much harder for my self.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/634.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XHt7o2)DSCN0459 (https://flic.kr/p/XHt7o2) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Not sure how much use it will be to you mate, but many years ago I used to make custom aluminium windows - including arched and round windows. The section we used was quite complex but the roller we used was a home made job that did very well. The aluminium section used to take 10 to 20 runs backwards and forwards through the rollers, tightening the radius up slightly on each pass. If it was too tight it would stop moving through the rollers and you'd have to back it off a bit. Slowly slowly with forming the radius is what worked, but as I said we were rolling aluminium, not stainless, although it was quite a large section compared to what your rolling.

The other thing of note was that the rollers were turned up out of 2" steel bar so that all surfaces of the section were supported - and moving. I think some of your issues may be the back of the section you're trying to bend is rubbing on the stationary part of the roller setup.

I know it's a lot more work but do you have a metal lathe at all? Turning up custom made rollers that's support the outside properly on the lower part and the inside properly on the upper part would help a great deal I think.

This all might be known to you anyway but just thought I'd share my experience with

bending metal over the years.

I have Two lathes, an old Imperial Kerry which has a bit of wear, but does a good job at cutting accurate threads.
The other is a unworn Chinese metric machine which OK for general jobbing, but cuts inaccurate threads over long shafts.
Time to get it right and my lack of expertise on a lathe is what would stuff me up.
I just don't have the time to get a working design and then stuff it up a few times in the lathe to come up with the correct roller etc.
But then some times you have to bite the bullet and just do it.
I treasure everyone's input........making mistakes and taking in different ideas is how I learn.

[101 Ron]

Just another report.
Muffler box all back together.
It will have to come apart again at a later date as to fit new side door water tight rubber seals.........some bolts cannot be reached unless the top comes off the muffler box.
I ended up removing the side door rubber seal as the rubber seal retaining strips are corroded away , as is the body work behind the rubber seals.
This means a lot more rust repair work and new side door seals.
After a year of sitting around I just about have the big silly thing ready to drive again.
I need to do this to keep seals and suspension working.
Besides I need to have some fun with the stalwart after a working bee.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/952.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YMXakr)DSCN0491 (https://flic.kr/p/YMXakr) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
The above shows a new rotary amber light fitted and melted wiring to it replaced( heat from the muffler box)
All the rust has been repaired in that corner of the vehicle.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/953.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YMXana)DSCN0494 (https://flic.kr/p/YMXana) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
Below is some of the new rust found on the RHS behind the cabin
Note the previous welded patches towards the side door hinge bracket.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/954.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YMXakM)DSCN0492 (https://flic.kr/p/YMXakM) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Enjoy

The Alvis Stalwart in Henley On Thames on Vimeo

I cannot do a direct link.......do a search on the Vimeo site and you should find it.

[rangieman]

Enjoy

The Alvis Stalwart in Henley On Thames on Vimeo

I cannot do a direct link.......do a search on the Vimeo site and you should find it.
This one[wink11]
The Alvis Stalwart in Henley On Thames on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/184344132)
Click the watch on Vimeo link[thumbsupbig]

[DiscoMick]

That was fun. No lifejackets either.

[101 Ron]

Wanted to take the big silly looking truck for a drive last weekend......but couldn't.
The paddocks near by work have now been fully developed and the truck now must be road worthy to drive out on a main highway to get to the nearest play areas.
Everything must work and my brakes were not........no air.
The auto water drain valve on the sensing or wet tank decided to stay open and its not something I want happening again and the compressor on the stalwart doesn't have much reserve as it only just big enough to do the job.
The valve is interesting as it triggered by the action of the air compressor shutting on and off.
This valve I have had a part before.
New diaphrams could be made etc, but at the end of the day I think it is going to be safer and more reliable to fit a modern style auto water drainer which I have ordered.
The newer style doesn't need the compressor to trigger it and therefore less complexity.
I have also fitted a manual tap, but the auto is fitted to save climbing up and over and then lifting access plates which may not be possible if a load is in the cargo bay.
The tail gate is temporarily fitted and the lower alloy reinforcement bar which I had welded on fouls the rear lights only by just a few millimetres which stops it dropping down to a ful 180 degrees, but to 160 degrees...........I can sort it out later.
Much welding and seal fitting has to be done before finally fitting of tail gate.
I wanted to reuse the old side gate seals, but it proved to hard to be refitted both inner side door seals correctly.
I noticed the old seals were never fitted correctly anyhow, I suspect because it was too hard.
I have another idea of doing the seals differently.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/116.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Y4wioV)DSCN0501 (https://flic.kr/p/Y4wioV) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/117.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Y4wira)repaired stalwart tailgate (https://flic.kr/p/Y4wira) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr


Exercising the crane to keep the seals on it working.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/118.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Y4wirk)FV623 Stalwart (https://flic.kr/p/Y4wirk) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/119.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Y4wirF)DSCN0506 (https://flic.kr/p/Y4wirF) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

This is the Auto sensing/ wet tank water drainer.
Note the bits of rubber just below it......I dug that out of the inside of it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/120.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Z5GmAR)Auto water drain valve Stalwart. (https://flic.kr/p/Z5GmAR) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr


Below is the side door sealing arrangement.
The rubber on the alloy door is not too hard to replace, but the dual rubber seals which is suppose to be both tucked under the retaining strip is extremely hard work to do correctly.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/121.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Y8dhZR)alvis stalwart side gate seal (https://flic.kr/p/Y8dhZR) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/122.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Y8di1n)alvis Stalwart side gate seal (https://flic.kr/p/Y8di1n) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

I am thinking of using square section rubber/foam contact cemented onto the top of the retaining strip and just one seal for the hull like below.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/123.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Y8dhZk)altenate rubber seal arrangement Alvis Stalwart. (https://flic.kr/p/Y8dhZk) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

The alcohol container dispenser unit has been removed because it will never be needed in Australia's climate and the fact its broken and I would have a hard time finding a bottle for it.
It also works on the air compressor switch on and off governor air circuit.
Things should be simpler and more reliable.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/124.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Y8di2p)broken Alvis stalwart alcohol bottle (https://flic.kr/p/Y8di2p) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

The other day I had a close up look at a AEC Regent mk 3 double decker bus.
You know its English by the way things are done......like a mechanical stop sign that pops up with low air pressure, epicyclic, air operated gear box and the shape of the steering wheel etc.
The Stalwart has a very only the British could do it that way thing about it which it shares with MGAs , Jaguar , Rolls Royce and English sold series One Landrovers.( aussie ones didn't get it)
That is the vacuum direction indicator switch.
Below is a reproduction item..........genuine ones are worth $1000.00 aust dollar.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/125.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WZTbKS)DSCN0437 (https://flic.kr/p/WZTbKS) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
The original one for the stalwart broke though old age and sitting in the sun light.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/126.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WZTbLU)DSCN0439 (https://flic.kr/p/WZTbLU) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

The way it works is you flick over the lever and it turns on the direction indicator and it slowly returns to the off position after ...say 20 seconds.
Common sense would think you would use a mechanical egg timer arrangement.( or why even bother)
No it uses a spring loaded piston with leather seal drawing vacuum though a adjustable orifice so the timing can be adjusted.........only the Brits could design it.
Naturally the leather seal dries out and thing has to be readjusted etc.
Ron

[101 Ron]

Just another report on my progress which as normal has not been enough.
My plans for the Christmas break was to give the stalwart a long run and get some video of it going though some muds holes I found not far from work where the stalwart is kept.
I didn't want to do this by myself and just the way things happen everyone who was to come baled out though different reasons........the Stalwart is not reliable .......it has not proven itself so , but needs to do short runs to get that reliability and I need other people around encase of trouble.
As I have no shed to work in for the Stalwart ,its been too hot or raining ect....I must work in with the weather..
The back of the Stalwart has been getting more work to rust and rear light housings, even though they are self draining, a small amount of water still sits in side and over 50 years has corroded everything.
A extra small 1/8 BSP drain bung has been added to the housings.
New stainless steel cover access plates made and bushes for the bell cranks for the RHS water jet steering.
The RHS water jet steering was seized up though lack of use and the old bushes had to be cut off and I made new ones in the lathe.
The water jet linkage needed new end float springs made.
Just to get the rear lights out was a big job because of rusted solid UNF threads and the bolts/screws just break of and then the drill out, and retaping etc..
I try to use stainless steel replacements.
Even wiring harness steel support straps are corroded away and I make new ones in Stainless from cutting up old hose clamps.
I have now discovered the bottom of the radiator surround frame is badly corroded and the radiator will have to come out..........this job appears straight forward to do, just I guess it weights about 150 KG , so I think a forklift will be in order to pluck it out, up and over.
The radiator is interesting as it is cross flow and I cannot not think of a vehicle in the 1960s which used a cross flow radiator.
The stalwart was backwards in some ways, but cutting edge in the 1960s in very many others.
The Design of the cooling system using a large header tank with a venturi constant flow and breathers back to it is interesting too.
The Stalwart is designed for operation from -40c to +50c temperature operation and will operate as a boiling water system if needed in a emergency for a while without hurting the motor.
The B81 Rolls Royce in the Stalwart benefits from developments to the cooling system for use of that motor in a German armoured tracked vehicle in the late 1950s
The drivers cabin has large over heat warning light and horn.

[101 Ron]

The stalwart has had a wheel alignment on the twin steer and it is not done in the normal way.
You must start out by measuring stuff from the sides of the hull and checking the adjustment of the hydraulic steering ram ball joints .
It turns out my stalwart is not quiet correctly adjusted in side the hull steering ram ball joints and most likely the reason I had much trouble with steering wheels alignment many years ago after doing and the steering tie rod ends.....I have left it that way as it is not worth disturbing stuff that has been working well in the past.
I have compensated for it in other adjustments.
This time around I had all the important information and measurements needed to get it right.
I found some more 14.00 x 20 tyres which are extremely hard to come by these days.
I already have a spare set of new tyres and decided to pass them on to someone else , for the simple reason they are so large and just take up too much room to store under cover.
Below is the new and old auto air tank drainer...new one is now fitted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/101.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YzyRXE)Replacement Stalwart Auto Drain valve. (https://flic.kr/p/YzyRXE) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/54.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/H7cfVK)Stalwart tie rod (https://flic.kr/p/H7cfVK) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/55.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/H7cfTF)1400x 20 tyres for stalwart (https://flic.kr/p/H7cfTF) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr


Have found British army water jerry cans which are correct for the stalwart and a few other bits and pieces.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/56.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/H7cfVp)spare stalwart light lens , manifold nuts and gaskets (https://flic.kr/p/H7cfVp) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/57.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZGrV5M)British water cans for Stalwart (https://flic.kr/p/ZGrV5M) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/62.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21X3Q2h)Stalwart too big for car port. (https://flic.kr/p/21X3Q2h) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

The above is trying to find cover from the sun..........it doesn't fit under.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/63.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21X3Q4b)rust and water in RHS stalwart tail light access (https://flic.kr/p/21X3Q4b) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Good old rust.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/64.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21X3Q4w)stalwart rear RHS tail light access (https://flic.kr/p/21X3Q4w) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/65.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21X3Q5d)stalwart LHS rear tail light access (https://flic.kr/p/21X3Q5d) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/66.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21X3Q5J)Stalwart rear wiring harness support (https://flic.kr/p/21X3Q5J) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/58.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DnZrvF)New stainless steel tail light cover plates with bolts (https://flic.kr/p/DnZrvF) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/59.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DnZrwx)new stainless steel wiring support saddles and bolts (https://flic.kr/p/DnZrwx) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/60.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DnZryg)Stalwart RHS tail light access in primer (https://flic.kr/p/DnZryg) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/61.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DnZrAa)badly corroded stalwart lower radiator support (https://flic.kr/p/DnZrAa) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

The above is why the radiator will have to come out.........all the dirt and leaves ect sits here causing rust.
the radiator strangely is not leaking.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/72.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21G2LFc)Stalwart RHS lower radiator corroded (https://flic.kr/p/21G2LFc) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Grease nipples were added to some of the bell cranks.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/73.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21G2LGp)Stalwart RHS water jet bell crank (https://flic.kr/p/21G2LGp) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/74.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/236utZT)Stalwart LHS tail light housing repair (https://flic.kr/p/236utZT) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
The tail lights must be water proof for the vehicle to swim.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/75.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/236uu1p)corrosion stalwart tail lights (https://flic.kr/p/236uu1p) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/76.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/236uu26)Stalwart tail lights. (https://flic.kr/p/236uu26) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

wiring junction block and after needle gunning off 10 coats of flaking paint fresh primer.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/67.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/236uu2B)under coat stalwart radiator outlet (https://flic.kr/p/236uu2B) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/68.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/238j8mg)Stalwart MK2 rear new paint (https://flic.kr/p/238j8mg) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/69.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/238j8n8)Stalwart MK2 rear new paint (https://flic.kr/p/238j8n8) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

To keep things interesting.
On a post a page or two back I mentioned how the Stalwart reminds me of the Thunderbirds and a scene where a vehicle is on the edge of a chasm..........some one has been thinking on the same lines.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/77.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21X4K13)recreated thunder birds (https://flic.kr/p/21X4K13) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
The picture below is interesting, not because of the photogenic qualities, but note the higher than normal side gates and rear body work to increase free board when swimming loaded......it appears to be professionally done and a extra locking arrangement on the top of the side gate too.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/78.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21X4K1y)Note high line rear body (https://flic.kr/p/21X4K1y) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
Below is a Stalwart decked out for refuelling........one of its important roles.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/79.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21X4JZS)stalwart bulk refuelling (https://flic.kr/p/21X4JZS) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/80.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21X4JZw)MK 1 stalwart cut away (https://flic.kr/p/21X4JZw) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[Homestar]

Thanks for the comprehensive update Ron. Pity I’m not closer - I wouldn’t be that hard to persuade to assist when you wanted to take it for a spin. [emoji106]

[Mick_Marsh]

I remember that episode of the Thunderbirds. That was the one with the road making machine.
The episode was "End of the Road".
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/88.jpg

[101 Ron]

Its official....the New south Wales Government now officially recognises my Stalwart as being a powered motor vessel.
It will cost me $135 dollars a year for this recognition and to be able to use NSW water ways.
The Process was interesting but straight forward as I had done my home work before hand.
If you read the first page on this thread you know what I am going on about.
Watching people read the paper work......length 6.2 mtr,.... weight 10 tonnes..., hull steel....motor Rolls Royce, draft 2 mtrs......[bigrolf][bigrolf][bigwhistle]. was worth the effort.
The local boating place usually charge extra if you want them to go to site and do the Hull ID plate..........they were happy to skip the extra charge just to get to see the Stalwart and check it out.
Just got to get some more safety gear and rego number letter stickers and all is done on the legal side of things.[smilebigeye][biggrin].
The Stalwart is legal to carry Seven people on roads and in the water.
The interesting thing is in all of this the vessel/stalwart doesn't need to be able to float........and currently cannot in its current state of repair.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/215.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/229sXnf)Alvis Stalwart hull ID (https://flic.kr/p/229sXnf) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/216.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DCKZQi)DSCN0882 (https://flic.kr/p/DCKZQi) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101RRS]

So Ron - now you gotta wear your life vest whenever you go for a drive on the road?

[101 Ron]

All jokes aside
I have ordered Three inflatable life jackets , one each for each seat in the cabin as it would be difficult to fit though the hatches, drive and get in and out of the big green machine with standard life jackets.
Four standard life jackets are for use in the rear cargo area.
Interesting thing is one of the forms I filled in asked for the vessels name.
I decided on Waterhorse........so the stalwart officially on government paper work has a name........but just to us ...its hippo as a stalwart loves to play in the mud.
Humble boat owner
Ron

[101 Ron]

The tool box and other storage space is small on the stalwart and most of the room is taken up in the cabin.
What do you think.........hang the anchor on the rear tail gate????????? give the motorist caught behind the big slow moving lump something to wonder about ???
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/347.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Jm3Vhv)stalwart anchor (https://flic.kr/p/Jm3Vhv) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf][bighmmm]

[Lewy110]

I am still keen to come out when you take it out.

[101 Ron]

Just a quick up date.
Its been to hot......like 35 degrees C with high humidity or when the sun is not out its been pouring rain and windy stopping any work in the Stalwart out side wise.
In desperation to get something done I had a friend help me lift off the RHS side gate for paint stripping and repair which could be done in the shade.
The door was full of water between its two skins due to punctures in the outer skin.
The alloy drain plugs were corroded in place, so they were drilled out and 1/8 BSP brass items fitted.
The door is was slow process to needle gun off the paint as I couldnt use the needle gun at full power as the alloy side door has skin only 1mm thick.
A cheap recirculating grit sand blaster was used where possible to finish off in places.
I now have my TIG welder up and running and had to put my self though a refresher practice cession on alloy TIG welding on 1mm thick material on a new strange machine and these days with reading glasses on .

The old rubber water seal was removed and retaining strips.( badly corroded)
A complete new set of stainless steel strips made to suit and ready to fit.
Painting is on first coat etch primer and while the etch primer is still drying a second coat of red oxide is sprayed on.

The stalwart was in danger of being crushed or burnt recently.
The yard at work has Three sets of very high voltage power transmission lines running over it.
The Stalwart is parked under a set with wooden posts.
One of the poles decided to ark out and catch alight and burn almost though.
The fire brigade would not let me into work to move the Stalwart as it was too dangerous.
The wind was starting spot fires everywhere from the burning post......and the Stalwart had about 300 litres of petrol on board.
Luckily the post didn't fall down and crush the Stalwart ( it was very close) or catch on fire.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/414.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Gc285m)RHS Stalwart side gate before repairs (https://flic.kr/p/Gc285m) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/415.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Gc287A)RHS Stalwart side gate brass replacement test port plug (https://flic.kr/p/Gc287A) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/416.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Gc288C)RHS stalwart side gate water and damage / hole (https://flic.kr/p/Gc288C) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/417.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Gc289u)RHS Stalwart side gate cracked out er frame (https://flic.kr/p/Gc289u) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/418.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Gc289Q)RHS Stalwart side gate draining water (https://flic.kr/p/Gc289Q) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/410.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24qcnRT)Stalwart RH side gate (https://flic.kr/p/24qcnRT) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/411.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25sWYKp)Stalwart cargo side door. (https://flic.kr/p/25sWYKp) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/412.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25sWYLX)Stalwart cargo side door (https://flic.kr/p/25sWYLX) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/413.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25sWYMD)Stalwart side door (https://flic.kr/p/25sWYMD) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/420.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25sWYPH)Stalwart side door repair (https://flic.kr/p/25sWYPH) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/421.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24oiNwC)Damaged Stalwart Cargo door. (https://flic.kr/p/24oiNwC) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/422.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24oiNx9)TIG welding repair Stalwart side door. (https://flic.kr/p/24oiNx9) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/423.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24oiNym)Stalwart MK2 FV623 side door (https://flic.kr/p/24oiNym) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/424.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24oiNyG)Stalwart MK 2 FV623 side door (https://flic.kr/p/24oiNyG) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

below is some of the replacement stainless steel rubber door seal retaining strips.
The home made press bender worked well this time around.
Each bolt is treaded though the strip ( UNF thread like the rest of the machine) and locked in place and the bolt head is ground down to reduce the high of the bolt head above the strip.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/419.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2474Fkt)Stalwart door retaining strips (https://flic.kr/p/2474Fkt) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

I am not too far away from finishing this door and now the weather is cooling off( but the days are getting shorter after work) I must have another cut rust out and weld in patches on the hull secession were the door goes.
Ron

[Jaster]

Wow Ron. So much more done since I last saw this. Grats on the new "boat".

[101 Ron]

The door with new rubber seal is done and only a pressure test to check my work and a alloy plate to carry the boat rego number needs to be done.
When ever possible I use new stainless steel bolts and other replacement fittings
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/551.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HusCSs)Painted RHS Stalwart side gate (https://flic.kr/p/HusCSs) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickrhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/552.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HusCTj)Finished RHS Stalwart side gate (https://flic.kr/p/HusCTj) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/553.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HusCTu)Finished RHS Stalwart side gate (https://flic.kr/p/HusCTu) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

That side gate took about 1.5 litres of camouflage green and the same in etch primer and red oxide.
Its adds up when you pay about $ 70.00 for 2 litres and over 40 Stainless1/4 UNF inch long bolts with washers and nuts etc.( I think I pay about 80 cents a bolt because of them beening UNF and not metric etc)
The photos don't show the size of the parts very well.

[101 Ron]

The Answer to the Question of how many Landrovers does it take to move a Stalwart is on this Video.
The Stalwart in the video would be about 10 tonnes.
Land Rovers Moving an Alvis Stalwart. - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxSJYxmmmtE)

The Stalwart with a dead motor is a pig to steer because you have the scrub of Four wheels and not Two.
One of the reasons I was able to get Historic rego for my Stalwart is the steering system in it, is recirculating ball mechanical connection and not a straight hydraulic boost system as on some of the other Alvis FV 600 series vehicles and modern heavy off road equipment........its a work of art how the steering box/Hydraulic cylinder and linkage works on the Stalwart.
I tried one day many years ago to move a 10 tonne Mack truck with my 101 Landrover with grass as the working surface , it only just did it and both front and rear lockers were used.
Ron

[101 Ron]

The Stalwart is a mixture of brilliantly machined components and simple hand made items.
The side door and tail gate pins are just originally mild steel solid pins cut and drilled by hand.
The pins were held in place by brass split pins.
I decided to make new items from 316 stainless steel and lighten things up a bit by making the pins hollow.
R pins are now used to hold the main pin in place............no more stuffing around trying to remove split pins or knocking though rusty mild steel pins to get a side door off.
To take a side door or tailgate off now only takes minutes.
A 3 mm alloy plate has been cut and screwed in place by stainless counter sunk UNF screws to display the boat rego number.
The door is now finished.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/290.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/G95TKe)New Alvis Stalwart side gate pins (https://flic.kr/p/G95TKe) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/291.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25JHxL7)Stalwart FV623 rear tail gate new stainless steel hinge pin (https://flic.kr/p/25JHxL7) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/292.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Gb2qCT)Turning new door pins for Stalwart (https://flic.kr/p/Gb2qCT) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/286.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25JHxLN)New stainless steel hinge pin (https://flic.kr/p/25JHxLN) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/287.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25JHxMQ)Stalwart FV623 cover turnfast RHS side gate (https://flic.kr/p/25JHxMQ) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/288.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HJmSME)Stalwart side gate boat rego number (https://flic.kr/p/HJmSME) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/289.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HJmSNw)Stalwart side gate boat rego number (https://flic.kr/p/HJmSNw) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[Disco-tastic]

It looks awesome Ron. Wish I had your skills and commitment!

[DODGE]

Great work Ron. your doing a top job with the old girl and should be proud.

Cheers Gaz

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/360.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24RiKzy)FV623 Alvis Stalwart (https://flic.kr/p/24RiKzy) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Its starting to look good.
still much to do.
Got the other side door off currently.
I have a problem that I can no longer use the needle gun to remove paint.(I am at the limits of what may hands can take using this method)
I can do it mechanically with a disc sander etc on flat surfaces, but due to the size of the thing paint stripper may not be the answer on surfaces which are not flat.
Sand blasting by a professional is a option, but will use money I do not have.
The alloy skin on the side gate outer surface is only a 1mm thick and a professional sand blaster may eat it away easily.( and the paint on it is very thick )
Just to transport the side gate to the sand blasters requires a car float type trailer or a table top truck.
The sand blaster gear I have is light duty,and extremely slow that heavy taxes my air compressor and I have to use blasting material recycling type blasters as I cannot make a mess.
I do have a attachment for sandblasting with a water pressure cleaner.......but its single use of the blasting material and uses much blasting medium with a mess.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/361.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24RiKAW)Stalwart LHS side door (https://flic.kr/p/24RiKAW) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr


The good news is the this LHS door I am working on doesn't need any welding and is reasonable condition other than previous welding repairs and dents.
I have all ready started making new stainless strips for the rubber seal.
The old items are reusable this time around, but I decided to do the stainless thing anyhow as I started to go this way with the other doors.
The idea is I have this door to work on if the weather is not kind to me to work on the body of the Stalwart out side..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/364.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24D5sJZ)LHS stalwart side gate (https://flic.kr/p/24D5sJZ) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Any one got a spare Million dollars for a Laser paint stripper to donate to the cause ?

Ron

[grey_ghost]

Hi Ron,

Sorry - I don't agree that it's "looking good"

It's looking bloody fantastic! Well done - fantastic work, skill and dedication!

Cheers,
GG.

[Don 130]

I'm sure you don't need another one with all the fantastic work you've put into this one, but this (https://expeditionportal.com/la-aduana-1960s-alvis-stalwart/)popped up today. I thought you might find it interesting.
Don.

[101 Ron]

Dated 2013.........the main one shown is a early MK2.....bolt in windows with all its water gear removed.
Because I know where to look......all of them had cancer in them.(notice in the Third photo the cancer under the main windscreen in side the cabin)

All of them must have had some sort removal of the swim gear during the last years in service.
I noticed the other day on mine, a close inspection of the drive shafts for the water jet drives showed they are not original, but appear to be cut down Landrover tailshafts, but the rest of the swim gear...ie the steering gear for the water jets appears original.

One pommie pain in the bum is enough......let alone the import of a machine and the asbestos hassles ect.

I am trying paint stripper on this other door.

Slow job with 10 coats of paint on the door as the stripper only wants to take off 2 coats of paint at a time.
It is leaving a super smooth finish on the alloy which I don't really want as the new paint will need to bite into the alloy.
I was thinking of using a small water sand blaster just to finish off the bits I miss with the paint stripper and roughen the surface for primer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/466.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26bpw7A)DSCN1254 (https://flic.kr/p/26bpw7A) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr


PS .....Don.....I think you must see yourself driving/swimming a Stalwart some day as I noticed you follow this thread......and now checking out old Stalwart adds............the Stalwart disease could be spreading.

[101 Ron]

Time for another report.
The last alloy side door is stripped, repaired and painted with new seals and stainless steel retaining strips.
I have not found time to do more rust repair to the hull, It must be the next step.
The side door seals and hull retaining strips on the LHS of the vehicle have been removed.
To completely remove the hull side door rubber seals and the retaining strips required removal of the tool box on the LHS rear of the vehicle.
Removing this also gives me access to the radiator/cooling system header tank and its pipes and rubber hose connections.
Naturally after 50 years the rubber hoses are due for replacing.
Much more work has been found rust wise and a lot of rough previous rust and collision repairs.
the photos tell the story.

Below took 2x 4 litre tins of paint stripper at $60.00 dollars a tin.
and I did end up doing some TIG welding repairs.
Then it was the usual etch and red oxide ect.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/359.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HjAKHz)Stalwart LHS door (https://flic.kr/p/HjAKHz) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/360.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HjAKJ6)Stalwart LHS door (https://flic.kr/p/HjAKJ6) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/260.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25VBDXp)DSCN1379 (https://flic.kr/p/25VBDXp) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

My little portable vacuum recycling sand blaster provided the rough finish needed for painting after the paint stripper.

This photo below is the tool box removed from the vehicle as required to access nuts which hold the hull seal retaining strips .
The standard steel strips were in bad shape and will have to be replaced by my stainless steel items.
What you can see is the coolant header tank.
You can see the small hoses I need to replace.
This is the only part of the vehicle which has a little bit of room which is not used for some thing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/361.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26nwu1o)Stalwart coolant header tank (https://flic.kr/p/26nwu1o) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
The photo below shows the header tank towards the top of the picture and then the original panels which have been pushed in and also cut etc.
A large steel patch has been welded over every thing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/362.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26nwu1J)DSCN1382 (https://flic.kr/p/26nwu1J) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
Below is the out side from the last photo
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/363.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26nwu25)DSCN1383 (https://flic.kr/p/26nwu25) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Below is rust on the sealing strip area on the LHS rear of the hull.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/364.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26nwu3N)DSCN1385 (https://flic.kr/p/26nwu3N) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
Below is the bottom of the toolbox showing the rust holes in the bottom of it.
The tail gate and side door locking levers are the long things in the photo, they are still attached
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/365.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26nwu4E)DSCN1387 (https://flic.kr/p/26nwu4E) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Below is the inside of the tool box.
I don't have any information on what the hole on the right side holds......a jack may be???? or what the small spring clip holds.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/366.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KkqNWh)Inside stalwart tool box (https://flic.kr/p/KkqNWh) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Below is the rear of the inside of the tool box......I am guessing the bracket with the felt holds a One pint oil can.
I will have to weld in patches in the holes on the Left.....It must be water proof.
Those holes were for extra lights which appears the army fitted for some reason with a extra Clansman radio speaker at the rear and they are now not needed.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/367.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KkqNX9)Inside stalwart tool box (https://flic.kr/p/KkqNX9) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Below is the lid of the tool box.
The hinge is broken off and it looks like the hinge has been replaced a few times in the past.
Note the old repair on the corner.
This truck may not have seen many miles, but some one spent a lot of time trying to keep it water tight and a swimmer.
The mileage is extremely low, but the hour meter shows 1700hrs....may be though swimming ??????????/ or the ignition being left on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/368.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KkqNY1)Previous toolbox lid repair (https://flic.kr/p/KkqNY1) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Below is the front side of the tool box and this area is inside the side door.
Note the long pipe.
When the tool box is fitted this pipe runs to below the cargo area floor and is nothing more than a breather, as the tool box is sealed well with the lid closed.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/369.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KkqNYG)Stalwart tool box (https://flic.kr/p/KkqNYG) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr





https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/370.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KkqNZ3)DSCN1392 (https://flic.kr/p/KkqNZ3) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

This photo below shows the side of the tool box which faces the radiator outlet area.
It has two smallish cleats to tie on a free board extension when loaded and exiting a steep river bank.
A grab handle for some reason.......may to help climb in the vehicle with the tail gate down.
There is another small metal loop, which I think could be something to do with the water jerrycan hold down straps.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/371.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27pbnbE)Stalwart tool box rust. (https://flic.kr/p/27pbnbE) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

Below more rust and the Two small cleats for the free board extension on the tool box.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/372.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27pbncm)Stalwart tool box rust. (https://flic.kr/p/27pbncm) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

The water jerrycans being carried in the radiator outlet part of the vehicle/load area I learnt was popular with the operators of the stalwart in cold climates.
They always had a supply of warm water to have a wash and didn't have to use the Boiling vessel .

Back to the grind stone......or grinding and welding so to speak.
My next instalment I will try and fill you in with what I know of the Stalwart Mariner project which was to turn the stalwart into a proper rough weather ocean going landing vessel and the hover Stalwart with Two gas turbine power plants.
Ron

[350RRC]

Great work Ron! Love this thread, you've gone where no man has gone before.

DL

[101 Ron]

Alvis Stalwart History Time.

In the 1960s the British invented the Hover craft.
Hover crafts were all the rage.
If I remember correctly Landrover even tried to develop a hover Landrover.
Alvis was also a part of the Landrover empire for a short time and rover cars was too.
Rover had been working on gas turbine power plants for cars and trucks since the early 1950s.
According to a book called Stout, Strong & Sturdy written by John L Rue a hover Stalwart was seriously considered.
Westland aero space(Vickers British hover craft corporation) was involved and the skirt to be used on the Stalwart as a hover craft was to be from a SRN-6 hovercraft (modified)already in production and use by the British military.
It was to be called the flying stalwart or Hover duck.
The skirt was to be retractable..
The hover craft side of things was to use a Rolls Royce Gnome turbine and road use was to use a Rover 2S-150 gas turbine.
Retraction of the skirt was to be done hydraulically.
Alvis was to install the rover turbine to the transmission and normal chassis build.
Vickers was to do the skirt and propeller/fans side of things.
A one third model was built/tested and much development work done until the penny dropped and the obvious discovered.( the model worked well and the idea was sound )
By the time you convert the Stalwart to a hover stalwart, there is no room left for the payload and the idea was dropped.
Stout, Strong and Sturdy is the only book written on the Stalwart which doesn't have mistakes and incorrect information.
I only have a copy and the pictures will not reproduce well on to this site.
I will leave the sea going stalwart mariner project for another post.
The tool box on the Stalwart is finished after a new bottom was welded in and much sand blasting and rust hole repairs.
New Stainless steel hinge welded into place for the lid and new felt glued into place for the tools.
I am still to work out what went where.
The rustly spring clip shown in a earlier picture I now believe held a small engineers pump oil can.
The problem now is the tool box is now perfect, but the panel it bolts on to has been patched over in a big way.
This is now not a really bad thing, but the way it has been done is poor and the area where to tool box bolts on and must be water proof has been pulled down and out of shape because the person doing the patch was lazy.
more work , it will have to be done correctly and this time I will do a flush patch and not one over the top which causes a rust trap.
I still have to found the time or inclination to have large cutting and welding sessions after work or on the weekends, in the cold,heat or wind or rain.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/302.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27EHn5V)DSCN1397 (https://flic.kr/p/27EHn5V) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/303.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27EHn4c)DSCN1396 (https://flic.kr/p/27EHn4c) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/304.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26ZShhh)DSCN1440 (https://flic.kr/p/26ZShhh) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/305.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26ZShi9)DSCN1442 (https://flic.kr/p/26ZShi9) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/298.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26ZShkJ)DSCN1444 (https://flic.kr/p/26ZShkJ) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/299.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JrpeBp)DSCN1445 (https://flic.kr/p/JrpeBp) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/300.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28mjJUc)Finished stalwart tool box.. (https://flic.kr/p/28mjJUc) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/301.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28mjJUH)oil can in stalwart tool box. (https://flic.kr/p/28mjJUH) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/295.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28mjJVe)Finished Stalwart tool box (https://flic.kr/p/28mjJVe) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/296.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LfhDq1)DSCN0872 (https://flic.kr/p/LfhDq1) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/297.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LfhDqb)DSCN0873 (https://flic.kr/p/LfhDqb) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

The last to pics above show the lip for the bolts which hold the tool box have been pulled down out of shape by the poorly fitted patch.
The patch is over the standard skin and this causes a water/rust trap on the inside between the two plates.
The tool box had the living daylights bashed out of to make it fit, which I have now straighten and now have a big gap.

[101 Ron]

The small yard at work has another visitor, this time a relation to the Stalwart......a 1954 Humber one ton truck which is powered by a Rolls Royce 6 cylinder version of the motor in the Stalwart.
It also has some other shared features to the stalwart, like tracta joints and independent suspension with torsion bars etc.
Its under cover presently, so not much to show.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/308.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LfhDpu)DSCN0871 (https://flic.kr/p/LfhDpu) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

They are a beautiful looking truck, but didn't last long with the Australian army due to being expensive, over engineered and no real improvement to simpler civie truck designs off road wise.

[101 Ron]

Found this of the Humber
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/306.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Lfn5hY)20180616_111530 (https://flic.kr/p/Lfn5hY) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/307.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Lfn5iQ)20180616_100132 (https://flic.kr/p/Lfn5iQ) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Today I scored a correct jack for the Stalwart.
Tim Vibert has been fantastic for the missing CES.
The jack is two stage hydraulic and even better built than the Australian army Fordson jacks with a extremely long handle which must fit inside the cabin...….most likely beside the crank handle.
The jack fits into that funny looking stand inside the tool box I was wondering about and a protrusion on the tool box lid holds the jack in place with the lid closed.
Note the original tool box lock...…..very British.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1789/42897148672_70b89c136e.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28mF6MA)Stalwart 4 ton jack retracted. (https://flic.kr/p/28mF6MA) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1771/42897148632_d724b44783.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28mF6LU)Stalwart 4 ton jack extended (https://flic.kr/p/28mF6LU) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1817/42897148702_0165934017.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28mF6N7)Stalwart jack storage in tool box (https://flic.kr/p/28mF6N7) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1771/42897148722_c0fcac73a9.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28mF6Ns)Stalwart tool box lock (https://flic.kr/p/28mF6Ns) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[DODGE]

Gday Ron

Loving the progress. I have an identical lock if you need another, its missing the key. I got it from my very british boss.

Cheers Gaz

[101 Ron]

The original padlocks are available new or secondhand here in Australia from Tim Vibert at a fare price..............in fact british Fv vehicle restorers import them from Australia.
The standard padlocks used are interesting and if you know what you are doing a key is not that hard to make.
The lock is also marked with a number indicating the cut on the key blank.
Everywhere I turn with the Stalwart so much interesting information turns up about the smallest things.
I will try and link a article a Ferret restorer posted about the old style locks used by the British FV series of vehicles.

[101 Ron]

Belfry Locks 2 1/2 inch (http://www.users.on.net/~gbear/ferret-belfry-locks.html)

[Disco-tastic]

This is one of my fave threads Ron. So much interesting work and history. Thanks for doing it!

[101 Ron]

Current effort is sorting out whats happening where the tools box fits on the LHS rear corner.
The patched over corner was removed and as expected it was being a rust trap and stopping me from fixing bent/damaged panels under it.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1824/28108394897_db83ddbcf4.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JPQSwe)DSCN0891 (https://flic.kr/p/JPQSwe) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1776/28108394917_e5ca73f373.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JPQSwz)DSCN0892 (https://flic.kr/p/JPQSwz) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1828/28107258247_88a775cda6.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JPK3CP)DSCN0893 (https://flic.kr/p/JPK3CP) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
The original panels were too badly dented etc to finish up with a good flat finish after panel beating, so I cut them out too.

[101 Ron]

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1799/42075480615_8ed9fb1f7a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2774QuX)DSCN0904 (https://flic.kr/p/2774QuX) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1825/41166965940_3035f0f556.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25HMsJQ)DSCN0907 (https://flic.kr/p/25HMsJQ) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1834/42075554845_3df01deeec.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2775dyM)DSCN0909 (https://flic.kr/p/2775dyM) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/891/42075554875_19f5354e75.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2775dzi)Stalwart LHS rear corner (https://flic.kr/p/2775dzi) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

The above has improved access to paint the inside and sort out some corruption.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1820/42075480635_346b75c134.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2774Qvi)DSCN0905 (https://flic.kr/p/2774Qvi) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Flush welded in plates will be fitted and this time with straight flanges for the tool box to sit on.

Below is the radiator header tank , now sand blasted and ready for red oxide.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1830/42075480535_0bbe878a4c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2774Qtz)DSCN0901 (https://flic.kr/p/2774Qtz) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

You blokes posting and throwing in your advice or thanks means a lot to me .( a lot of people have stopped by to see the Stalwart or if lucky to get a ride in it and I have been happy to show the vehicle to them.)
I have been plugging away on this thing for 7 years now and I have almost thrown in the towel a few times.
Having a band of supporters helps give me the drive to go on.
I was never planning to do so much work on this thing as I knew I didn't have a lot of time or resources, or was this thread planned in any way.( at time of this posting over 130 thousand views and 100 pages in the thread)
With out having this thread I don't think I could have come this far.
There is still much to do with corrosion and the mechanical side of things with inter wheel drive disconnect clutches.
101 Ron ……….thanks , thanks...….. AULRO

Now I have to start back working on the big silly thing so you guys will have something to read in a few weeks.

[Homestar]

Keep at it Ron, I too love this thread and how you are progressing. I'm sure at some stage I'll be back through and see how much you've done since I was last there (heaps). 👍😊

[Lockee]

Awesome work as per all your vehicles

[grey_ghost]

Ron you are doing a fantastic job. I love reading this thread and am amazed at your dedication and quality of work! [emoji1303][emoji3]

[67hardtop]

Im loving this thread too Ron. I just wish i had some of ur motivation. Cheers

[86mud]

Keep at it Ron....just because I am not providing replies, does not mean I am not looking at your thread. I log in first thing every Monday morning hoping for an update from you.

It is great to see it being restored.

[101 Ron]

Been saving up to buy sheet of metal and finally got it this week end.
Been self learning how to set up a pan brake...( something I know nothing about.)
I got the bend I wanted and had to trim the patch down to size.
Using Gal plated steel.....harder to weld, but more resistant to rust.
Its been blowing 30 knots for the last few days stopping me from using the MIG welder so I have only been able to tack things in place.
I decided to bolt the tool box on top so when I do weld the patch in correctly any heat expansion and misalignment of the bolt holes will be the same to both tool box and the lower LHS quarter.
I added some smaller 1/4 auxiliary bolts to help pull the box on to the quarter panel.
I should be able to seal everything up with silastic when finished instead of a 1/2 inch gap.
The tool box like the top of the muffler box on the opposite side of the rear of the machine will need to come off again to fit the side and rear door seals.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/917/43071940262_81ecbbc735.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28C7XeG)DSCN0921 (https://flic.kr/p/28C7XeG) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/836/43071940302_20ea70b692.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28C7Xfo)DSCN0922 (https://flic.kr/p/28C7Xfo) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1765/29379736818_9bd1422319.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LLbQbw)DSCN0935 (https://flic.kr/p/LLbQbw) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1828/29379736928_0b9a3ac7b1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LLbQdq)DSCN0936 (https://flic.kr/p/LLbQdq) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/915/29379736938_65c3bdb568.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LLbQdA)DSCN0937 (https://flic.kr/p/LLbQdA) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1830/28380933947_66566b5e43.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KeVGTn)DSCN0938 (https://flic.kr/p/KeVGTn) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1822/42364515155_40a966d71a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27xBdp6)DSCN0942 (https://flic.kr/p/27xBdp6) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1783/42364515315_ba119459ec.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27xBdrR)Stalwart LHS rear showing repaired fit and extra bolts (https://flic.kr/p/27xBdrR) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/842/42364515205_10ee3e655f.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27xBdpX)Stalwart LHS rear tacking patch in place. (https://flic.kr/p/27xBdpX) by john smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141335301@N02/), on Flickr

[67hardtop]

Not only do i want some of ur motivation but some of ur patience too. Great work Ron