Disco 3/4 Automatic Transmission FAQ - 6 Speed

[Nicky]

So why does land rover fit the plastic sump, that is a bugger to service if BMW and ford fit a steel one?
,

I have read the plastic sump has an in-built filter, whereas the steel sump does not. Hence the difference in oil-changing times?
More input please.

[vbrab]

Seems that Land Rover do some strange things, and the plastic sump/filter item is one of them. Get the metal pan as it will make future filter changes easier.
Building cars so that you have to remove the body to take out the motor is another land Rover innovation that beggars belief.

[~Rich~]

Seems that Land Rover do some strange things, and the plastic sump/filter item is one of them. Get the metal pan as it will make future filter changes easier.

Building cars so that you have to remove the body to take out the motor is another land Rover innovation that beggars belief.


Engine can be changed with the body on, it's changing a turbo that requires body removal to make access easier.
But even a few have managed to do it with the body on.

[vbrab]

Am told you can remove the petrol motor from D3, but Diesel removal seems body off is generally the way. Haven't heard of diesel removal with body on (I wish), but did get my turbo done by dealer (warranty) without body off.

[~Rich~]

Don't think that we are the only ones who have auto issues!

I've got a mate who has a 18mth old FJ Cruiser, modifed with larger tyres and lift etc etc. He has had his auto transmission valve body damaged, a known Klunk issue with that auto. No valve bodys spare in Australia. 1 will be shipped from Japan - a 3 week wait for the parts!

Oh and guess what, Toyota also say their auto's are sealed for life. :angel:

[Tombie]

Body off work is so much easier...

And Land Rover are definitely not the innovators on that one...

[carlschmid2002]

After reading all of this thread I am still a little confused. I have a 2005 D3 with a steel pan already fitted. If I wish to change the filter what do I buy. If I don't open the pan and just want to flush the fluid can this be done through the oil cooler. I have only had the car 5 months and not sure when it was last changed so I would like to properly flush the system.

[jonesy63]

I have a 2005 D3 with a steel pan already fitted. If I wish to change the filter what do I buy.
Hi Carl - you need a new filter, gasket and ATF. Drain sump via drain plug - if your steel one has it - or undo steel sump and be prepared for the tidal wave and clean up. :)


If I don't open the pan and just want to flush the fluid can this be done through the oil cooler.
You can - that is how the "megaflush" works - they undo the lines to the ATF cooler and pump old oil to waste - and new ATF into the return line, using the Wynns machine. The issue is that if you don't open your pan, your filter will still be dirty.

Cheers,
Rob

[Nicky]

I would have thought that the whole point of the exercise was to clean the filter.

[Melbourne Park]

I have read the plastic sump has an in-built filter, whereas the steel sump does not. Hence the difference in oil-changing times?
More input please.

Many here at the Aulro site recommend changing to an alternative metal sump.

I can see advantages in doing so ... but, for one thing. That descriptions of the engine say that Land Rover changed oil catchment design, to allow the engine to get full lubrication when in rough terrain. Hence extra baffles were put in to stop oil going to just one place when is steep terrain.

I presume the plastic sump is part of that oil safety design. So too having a filter in the sump ...

[Tombie]

The steel version has a separate (but in same location) filter that is replaceable.

The plastic version is bonded into the moulding.

[Rosco55]

My 2010 D4 has done 123,000 km with about 20,000 towing 2.3tonne van. No shudder, no transmission attention. No hard and fast rules methinks.

[Melbourne Park]

The steel version has a separate (but in same location) filter that is replaceable.

The plastic version is bonded into the moulding.

I am sorry, but I was confused with the auto transmission's "sump" and the engine's sump.

There are changes that Land Rover specified for their version of the engine, when compared to the other users of the V6 Ford/Peugeot "Lion" diesel (Jag, Ford Territory, Peugeot, Citroen I think). Those have shallower sumps without out extra baffles (evidently) and have less thorough sealing for dirt / water ingress proofing and are not designed to safely operate at 45 degrees angles.

The auto tranny's sump though, likely is much the same function across all vehicles that use it. I don't know why LR compromised on something so important for heavy users ie ease of changing the tranny fluid.

On another issue, I know with Landcruisers (Prado and others) that its very common to add a more efficient tranmission fluid cooler. But it doesn't seem to be something that LR users add.

[jonesy63]

I am sorry, but I was confused with the auto transmission's "sump" and the engine's sump.
There are no baffles in the plastic LR auto sump, just as there are none in the ZF metal one.

I don't know why LR compromised on something so important for heavy users ie ease of changing the tranny fluid.
LR don't care - their recommended FIRST change of ATF is at 240,000km - well out of warranty. Cynics could say this is to reduce cost of ownership for the majority of owners, who renew their cars while still under warranty. Note that even extended factory warranty won't cover to where the first ATF change is recommended by LR.

[LuvDisco]

Hi to All - have been reading these threads very closely and seriously ! Luv my disco 3 - however, it has 399,982 km's and I have gone through all the 'sealed gearbox' issues with my mechanic who is a LR lover and we changed the oil and sump at about 180,000km's and no drama, bout another 50,000km it started to shudder - ouch ! Dropped the oil and flushed and started again with a computer update and has gone like a dream !!! Only a couple of months ago, with the high km's we all commented on how good the gearbox was going !!! And then last week we did a further service, tie rod ends (both sides), and a computer update and 600km's into the adjustment time I get 'gearbox transmission fault' and 'special programmes not working' - mmmmm Back to mechanic urgently - redo computer programme and now we are told gearbox is NO GOOD NO more !! Does this sound 'normal'??? Would love to know who else has had a replacement gearbox ?? Always used ZF product ! lotsa highway and outback road driving - no offroad to a great degree and no towing !!! HELP please - your thoughts would be encouraging !

[rar110]

I have a RRV with the same ZF 6 speed with 240,000 km. It had a tranny service at 130 & 230,000 km. it was going great until recently when it stripped the output shaft spline. It simply wore out.

I spoke to ZF who indicated most 6 speeds (which are mostly in Falcons in Australia) last about 180,000, although have seen them last up to 700,000km.

So it sounds like you've done pretty well. ZF Sydney will do a full refurb for $4400.

[swampy1]

Hi all,
Could anybody recommend an Auto transmission workshop in the Hunter region to do a Oil Change, fit Steel Pan service on my D4 TDV6?
Thanks, Swampy.

[DiscoDB]

Hi to All - have been reading these threads very closely and seriously ! Luv my disco 3 - however, it has 399,982 km's and I have gone through all the 'sealed gearbox' issues with my mechanic who is a LR lover and we changed the oil and sump at about 180,000km's and no drama, bout another 50,000km it started to shudder - ouch ! Dropped the oil and flushed and started again with a computer update and has gone like a dream !!! Only a couple of months ago, with the high km's we all commented on how good the gearbox was going !!! And then last week we did a further service, tie rod ends (both sides), and a computer update and 600km's into the adjustment time I get 'gearbox transmission fault' and 'special programmes not working' - mmmmm Back to mechanic urgently - redo computer programme and now we are told gearbox is NO GOOD NO more !! Does this sound 'normal'??? Would love to know who else has had a replacement gearbox ?? Always used ZF product ! lotsa highway and outback road driving - no offroad to a great degree and no towing !!! HELP please - your thoughts would be encouraging !

Would be good to hear why it was deemed "NO GOOD NO more". I would be wanting (and expecting) to hear a more technical explanation.

Having said that, 400,000kms is very good from an auto, especially one with clutch packs that do wear out eventually. With the first service done at 180,000km then to still get 400k is a great outcome.

[LuvDisco]

Tis a mystery to all with my gearbox that now will not fault ! I have a fantastic mechanic who has spoken with ZF tech and they have gone through the adjustments and it now appears that it is not faulting ! I may be a lucky LuvDisco gal !, it appears that we may not have needed to do the computer upgrade to the gearbox as it was doing well ! So now it has been driven by the experts and may have settled itself into a bit longer life ! I am aiming to beat the 700,000km mark !, it appears that because I do a lot of long highway driving and also love my cruise control I am not being kind to the top end gears and they did not calibrate well in the computer upgrade and needed further time to do the resinc ! We will see how I go on my next trip and will keep you updated ! However, the ZF tech did say that the LR ZF boxes should start their changes at 60,000km. They are definitely not a 'sealed for life' item.

[boardrider]

swamp1.
good reports from allfourx4 40414041
boardrider:D

[swampy1]

This thread prompted me to have a chat to my local auto transmission specialist. He clearly knows the vehicles and had some interesting comments and views.

He has rarely seen any with terminal failure.

He has seen plenty that have had a rock through or cracked plastic sump - causing fluid loss. So a metal bash plate might be the go offroad.

Not seen any Landies or BMWs with coolant ingress due to the cooler being in the radiator but has seen plenty of Fords. He put it down to crappy radiators in the Fords - not corrosion related failures but fatigue cracks.

Says the metal sump is a must - for protection and ease of servicing the filter.

Does not recommend a mega flush but does insist on oil testing and changing oil on the the basis of the results.

Normal change is just a basic change as long as the test is OK. He indicated that if you leave the car up on the hoist for a couple of hours with the drain and filler holes open then you will get an extra litre or so out the drain.

If he does have to do a mega flush he does not support the drain and fill a few times method but uses the oil cooler pipe method and does the lot in one go.

He believes most of the major oil companies have ATF that are suitable for the gearbox BUT he only uses and recommends ZF 6 - he supplies the local Landrover, BMW and Ford dealers with ZF 6 when they run out.

He charges $46 a litre for ZF 6 which is a bit expensive.

He recommends that the metal sump is a must, for most cars a basic change is only needed as long as the test is OK, then a basic change, test and filter change/clean about every 50,000km.

His cost for a metal pan and 5 litres of ZF6 with labour - is $850. If a mega flush is required - there is an additional $110 labour charge and $46 per litre of oil over the 5 litres.

Garry
Garry,
Any chance of the contact details for your specialist?
Cheers,

[rar110]

I should add to my post, that despite my failure and ZF's experience with the 6hp26 generally, this is a very well regarded transmission. It's fitted to Bentleys, Audis and BMWs. Here's a pic of the wear on output shaft on my transmission which resulted in the failure. It's reportedly popping up on RRV trannys, but not really known as a problem in D3/4s. The RRV & RRS tdv8 have a ZF/LR spec number unique to these vehicles. Maybe that is the reason.
96424

[LuvDisco]

Here we go again ! The expert mechanic has put my D3 through the mill and all the tech info from ZF and it goes like a dream in and around the city ! today he drives a short distance and gets 'Gearbox failure' - think the car is now playing tricks on us !! There is a new hand held code reader available as well that I am investing in for around $300. I do a lot of country kms and this will no doubt be my saver at some stage ! Did I mention that my D3 did not have its timing belt done till 248,000kms ! My LR dealer omitted to do ! And my new dream mechanic saved me ! The gearbox mystery lives on - I am sure it will sinc over time - will keep on travelling for now

[rar110]

Here we go again ! The expert mechanic has put my D3 through the mill and all the tech info from ZF and it goes like a dream in and around the city ! today he drives a short distance and gets 'Gearbox failure' - think the car is now playing tricks on us !! There is a new hand held code reader available as well that I am investing in for around $300. I do a lot of country kms and this will no doubt be my saver at some stage ! Did I mention that my D3 did not have its timing belt done till 248,000kms ! My LR dealer omitted to do ! And my new dream mechanic saved me ! The gearbox mystery lives on - I am sure it will sinc over,time - will keep on travelling for now

Apparently, there is a prescribed process to bed in a newly programmed 6hp26. Otherwise it will play up. However I don't know it.

[Celtoid]

I have a RRV with the same ZF 6 speed with 240,000 km. It had a tranny service at 130 & 230,000 km. it was going great until recently when it stripped the output shaft spline. It simply wore out.

I spoke to ZF who indicated most 6 speeds (which are mostly in Falcons in Australia) last about 180,000, although have seen them last up to 700,000km.

So it sounds like you've done pretty well. ZF Sydney will do a full refurb for $4400.



Is it the same, as in identical as the Falcon's box? I thought it would have to be beefed up a bit to match it's use in a D4.

[rar110]

Is it the same, as in identical as the Falcon's box? I thought it would have to be beefed up a bit to match it's use in a D4. Same model box 6HP26, but manufacturer spec number, otherwise known as ZF parts list number, will be different. The parts inside vary. I was a bit surprised to find that for a D3/4 and 2.7 RRS the ZF parts list number changed many times. This could make fitting a used tranny to a D3/4 a bit uncertain. Also, it seems the casing is marked as 6HP26X (identifying external transfer box). However, the parts list number for the tdv8 3.6 RRV and RRS stayed fairly constant, and is marked as being a 6HP26 even though it has an external transfer box. So generally no hardware changes inside this box according to ZF.

[reidkiwigold]

hi, I just had my disco transmission oil changed at lr brighton, after speaking to there service manager, they recommended that the transmission oil be changed at 100,000 kms and at 160,000 change the oil and filter, my disco had just done 104,000 kms and the oil was black? and I don't do any towing?

[~Rich~]

Well if you want your gearbox to live a long life change the fluid every 50,000 / 60,000 k. Ignore what LR recommends on this!!!

[Melbourne Park]

hi, I just had my disco transmission oil changed at lr brighton, after speaking to there service manager, they recommended that the transmission oil be changed at 100,000 kms and at 160,000 change the oil and filter, my disco had just done 104,000 kms and the oil was black? and I don't do any towing?

How much did they charge? I got them to change my oil at 11k (motor oil), and their cost for the oil was high. God knows what they charged for your transmission!!!

I tow some ... perhaps 2.5k out of the 11k so far, but I am towing the off road van to the centre and back (mostly bitumen roads though) which will be 5k. The van weighs max 2.4 tonne. I'm not sure if 50k is early enough if 50k is required for normal usage?

And is it difficult to get a sample of the gearbox oil in order to assess the need to change the oil?

I also wonder about changing the diff oils ... a mechanic (who is a Mercedes only shop) recommended doing the diffs early too. He liked the Disco too.

I wonder what the schedule is for the transfer case as well. Should it be changed as often as the main gearbox?

[Ean Austral]

Done my first oil and filter change at 72000 and the second at 125000. The smoothness in the trans is noticeable after the last oil and filter change just a few weeks back.


If we still have the car at 175000 it will be done again.


Cheers Ean

[Tote]

I should add to my post, that despite my failure and ZF's experience with the 6hp26 generally, this is a very well regarded transmission. It's fitted to Bentleys, Audis and BMWs. Here's a pic of the wear on output shaft on my transmission which resulted in the failure. It's reportedly popping up on RRV trannys, but not really known as a problem in D3/4s. The RRV & RRS tdv8 have a ZF/LR spec number unique to these vehicles. Maybe that is the reason.
96424

When I replaced my transmission on dissassembly we found that the input on the transfer case was worn as well as the trans output shaft. The cause of this was most likely fretting from a lack of lubrication when assembled. I needed a new transfer case as a result.

Regards,
Tote

[rar110]

When I replaced my transmission on dissassembly we found that the input on the transfer case was worn as well as the trans output shaft. The cause of this was most likely fretting from a lack of lubrication when assembled. I needed a new transfer case as a result. Regards, Tote

Same here. I've bought a used transmission/transfer box. What year was your disco and how many km?

[Tote]

2008, it had 140,000ish on it when the trans was rebuilt.

Regards,
Tote

[rar110]

2008, it had 140,000ish on it when the trans was rebuilt. Regards, Tote

Interesting. Mine is a 08MY, and the new box was from a late 2009 RRV. The tranny output shaft on the new box was lubricated.

[shanegtr]

Just finished changing the trans oil in my D3. Those front and rear row of bolts on the pan are a bastard - who thought it was a good idea to put chassis rails just below them - LR could have at least made it with enough room to get a T40 and ratchet in there. And I'd highly recommend getting the steel pan with a dump plug in it, unlike my steel pan that dosent have one. Makes for a messy job without it. Next time I do this job I'll be replacing it with a pan with a sump plug

[Wasa57]

Just changed mine as well, fitted the BMW steel pan with drain plug, I hear your pain!
Ended up making a rachet spanner tool for the bolts under the members.
It is the smallest rachet spanner in the cheap sets you get from Supa-Cheap or Repco.
Jammed a spare torx through the smallest rachet spanner hole (a little help from the angle grinder) and then cut off excess, worked a treat! By no means easy, but saved a lot of time.

-Wasa

[LuvDisco]

An update for those of you who have a D3 - gearbox should NOT have computer update done if it is running well !! Which mine was - no-one told us not to ! We now have the beast at just over the 400,000km mark and all gears on flat ground are fantastic ! Working like a dream ! When I do my regular drive south I have 3 hills to go over - ping - gearbox failure on the kick back to increase the power to get over the top !!! Then it goes like a treasure again ! Seems that on hill climb and under pressure top gear will not go back to give me the extra power. Have the scanner installed as at today and will try the drive and remove code during the journey and see if the gearbox will slowly recognise that it can still do the good work !!! OMGosh - they should tell you these things !!!! Am determined this gearbox will hit 700,000km's as they know it can !!!!!:D Am going to keep smiling and avoid hills as it drives a dream on flat ground !!!! Happy travelling to all

[rar110]

An update for those of you who have a D3 - gearbox should NOT have computer update done if it is running well !! Which mine was - no-one told us not to ! We now have the beast at just over the 400,000km mark and all gears on flat ground are fantastic ! Working like a dream ! When I do my regular drive south I have 3 hills to go over - ping - gearbox failure on the kick back to increase the power to get over the top !!! Then it goes like a treasure again ! Seems that on hill climb and under pressure top gear will not go back to give me the extra power. Have the scanner installed as at today and will try the drive and remove code during the journey and see if the gearbox will slowly recognise that it can still do the good work !!! OMGosh - they should tell you these things !!!! Am determined this gearbox will hit 700,000km's as they know it can !!!!!:D Am going to keep smiling and avoid hills as it drives a dream on flat ground !!!! Happy travelling to all

Maybe transmission cooler needs a flush. It will be working harder up hills and be warming up. The cooler may not be working as well as it should.

[reidkiwigold]

Hi, it cost about $ 470.00 , It was cheaper than changing the pan to a steel one, and it was right on xmas time and I really needed the vehicle over the holiday season.

[Melbourne Park]

Hi, it cost about $ 470.00 , It was cheaper than changing the pan to a steel one, and it was right on xmas time and I really needed the vehicle over the holiday season.

Hmm ... that includes the transmission fluid?

When I did a service on buying my demo D4 (the dealer I bought it from did not want to sell it to me after I paid the deposit), I had Brighton sell me a tongue and do a wheel alignment. It turned out the wheel alignment was way out on one wheel!!!

But I took it in and had an oil change (yes I two and am used to changing Toyota fluids seemingly all the time). They charged I think $185 for the motor oil itself ...

[Narangga]

Had mine serviced with a full flush yesterday (at about 60,000km transmission life). Haven't driven it much since but it seemed to be a bit smoother. Cost was $720 (in Darwin remember). The guy who did it was surprised that it already had the steel pan.

[Rob king]

Just for reference, I bought a steel sump conversion kit direct from ZF yesterday, as well as a mechatronic plug seal. $271 for that - which included the BMW X5 steel sump with drain plug. I also got 6L of ZF Lifeguard Fluid 6 from Repco (using NRMA membership discount of 10%) for $189 - or $31.50 a litre.

I have been refused service at 2 auto transmission shops - as they know there are problems with these ZF (as previously mentioned by Graeme) and don't want to be a part of the "fun". :mad: I don't want a LR dealership to have their "technicians" perform the work - as I am sure this is way below their obvious skills (at $150/hr!). :angel:

Good luck to all with their autos!

Thanks for the post Jonesy.
I'm keen on doing the same to my 07 RRS. And so is a mate who also has a 07 RRS
We have access to a hoist and my mate is a fitter.
Was it a difficult job?... Any time estimate?.. Do we still need to plug it into a tech tool after??.
Thanks
Rob.

[jonesy63]

Was it a difficult job?... Any time estimate?.. Do we still need to plug it into a tech tool after??

On a hoist - not difficult. I watched the auto mechanic do the work - waited about 10 mins for it to cool down (after I drove about 20 mins there), then removed automatic box shield, placed large catch pan underneath, undid the plastic auto sump bolts and snapped off the plastic lug from the filter. Waited about 5 mins for it to drain, wipe down and fit new filter/sump/gasket. Sucked 1L of ATF in at a time, then filled. Then he got a step-ladder out and climbed up into car - started and ran through all gears. Hopped down from car and checked temp - filled a bit more and wiped off excess and put cover back on. Probably an hour or so all up.

He didn't have a diagnostic tool for LR, but I did. Pretty sure it is recommended to reset gearbox adaptations after ATF is changed. That is what I did anyway.

There is a ZF document describing this process - can't seem to find it at the moment.

[LRD414]

Jonesy, I thought I'd read that a chassis cross member made the sump fitting difficult. Did this get removed as part of the process or did I mis-read something?

Scott

[jonesy63]

Hi Scott,
It is a problem - only when fitting the original plastic sump with integrated filter - which can't be separated from the sump. With the steel sump, the filter can be slipped onto the spigot separate to the sump.

P.S. Hope you made it home to Brisvegas ok! :cool:

Cheers,
Rob

[Plane Fixer]

I have had some problems with a harsh shift from 1-2 when cold and also if I sink the boot at all times. At one point for a short distance I had snatching in first or second.
Took it the dealer, but because it had an aftermarket sump on all they wanted to do was replace the mechatronics (valve block assy) at a cost of $6000.00. plus labour etc.
They then suggested the transmission specialist who serviced the transmission and that they would remove the valve block and send it away for testing (in QLD I think) and replace any faulty solenoids and seals.
I have been told that it is now fixed and my wallet is only lighter by $1800 total.
As I will not get back from a job possibly until Wednesday or Thursday I will not be able to tell how it is until then. I will report later as I have to then drive from Coffs to Albion Park for a job next week.
I was worried I could be up for a torque converter or complete gearbox.

[kenl]

I replaced my sump with a steel one and what I oil I could (4.8l) last week. It was not a fun job but my tolerance for mechanical work is dwindling I think.

I did it on a hoist and it took me 4 hours, the gap at both the front and rear of the sump is quite tight, none of your standard ratchet drives and sockets will fit in the space, I wish I'd had a Torx40 in a traditional allen key type configuration to access the tight space bolts that would have helped a lot.

The sump came with traditional bolts with a 10mm head, so at least they could be done up with a spanner but it was slow going, I've since had thoughts of a socket with some string wrapped around it that I would pull with one hand while holding the socket up on the bolt with the other hand just to get the majority of the way. It should be noted that the supplied bolts are shorter than the original ones because the sump is thinner around the edges.

You will also need some gasket adhesive, maneuvering the sump back into place is tricky, and the gasket will give you the erts. I think if I were to do it again I would have another look at taking out the rear cross member.

At the end of the day I'm glad I've done it, the parts have been sitting on my shelf waiting for me to have the time and temerity to do it, meanwhile I have been stressed about the possible state of my oil.

I think if I were to do it again better value could be gained by simple double or triple changing the oil thru the original sump plug (I didn't realize it had one) I know the filter doesn't get changed but at least 75-85% of the oil would get changed. (doing it 2-3 times) That would at least give me peace of mind until I actually did get around to changing the sump it self.

[Plane Fixer]

Have just picked my car up after the valve body repair.
"Test and replace dampeners, valve body plate and machine test for correct pressures and operation"
I cleared the adaptation settings with the IID tool and it drives like a new one. So far I am very happy with it.

[rar110]

Have just picked my car up after the valve body repair. "Test and replace dampeners, valve body plate and machine test for correct pressures and operation" I cleared the adaptation settings with the IID tool and it drives like a new one. So far I am very happy with it.

How many kms was on transmission?

[Plane Fixer]

I have turned over 110,000 and have had the transmission regularly serviced since 60,000.
I was told that all the accumulators needed replacing and solenoids cleaned seals and gasket plate was replaced.
I have only used the genuine ZF oil.
The changes are now very smooth and I am very happy.

[hiker]

Hi all,

My 2005 D3 is up for gearbox reconditioning - is there any recommendations in the Newcastle, Lower Hunter area of NSW?

I've been given a recommendation in Wyong, but time is against me.

Hope someone can help

cheers

[rar110]

Hi all, My 2005 D3 is up for gearbox reconditioning - is there any recommendations in the Newcastle, Lower Hunter area of NSW? I've been given a recommendation in Wyong, but time is against me. Hope someone can help cheers

ZF in Sydney is probably the best place to reco the box at a good price (was $4400 incl GST a couple of mths ago). I think they said a week turn around. You just need someone to remove and refit the box.

[Landis3]

Any suggestions around the Albury/Wodonga area or surrounding area of someone you recommend to have do this Trans svc for me. I have just purchased a D3 and have noticed the shudder a couple of times under low revs and slight load. Very worried about my latest purchase being a costly one!

[~Rich~]

For service I'd recommend Cohuna Automatics:
auto transmissions Cohuna (http://www.cohunaautomatictransmissions.com.au/)
For a rebuild I'd either use them or ZF in Sydney, the Melb ZF agent is more expensive.

[matt_ali_walsh]

OK I'm thinking the transmission in our D3 is on its last legs - the dreaded F fault when towing along with codes pointing to a worn E clutch.
As a stop gap, and given we don't have much to lose, I'm considering a couple of tubes of Dr Tranny. The trans had a new pan only about 5k ago, so I don't need to change that. My question is what's the best way to get the treatment into the trans? Any help much appreciated.
Cheers
Matt

[~Rich~]

Are you getting slipping?
Dr Tranny won't fix everything but it is good for clutch converter slippage.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Howto: Dr Tranny (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic108447.html?highlight=Dr+Tranny)

[matt_ali_walsh]

Yes the codes indicate a slipping clutch (incorrect gear ratio). According to the research I've done it relates to the E clutch, which looks after gears 4-6. When the trans faults I lose everything above 3rd :( .

[matt_ali_walsh]

So it looks like Dr Tranny it is, in through the trans cooler. Can someone confirm the hose I'm looking for is the one on the passenger side a few inches down the radiator? D3, 2.7l. Thanks heaps!

[Wasa57]

OK I'm thinking the transmission in our D3 is on its last legs - the dreaded F fault when towing along with codes pointing to a worn E clutch.
As a stop gap, and given we don't have much to lose, I'm considering a couple of tubes of Dr Tranny. The trans had a new pan only about 5k ago, so I don't need to change that. My question is what's the best way to get the treatment into the trans? Any help much appreciated.
Cheers
Matt

Hi Matt

2005 TDV6 auto @255K, BMW steel pan with drain plug.

Similar story to yours, only my new pan fitted about 15K ago.
Was changing from 6th to 5th under heavy acceleration while overtaking, chime and gearbox fault message on screen, stop, restart, al normal.
I have done X3 flushes up to today in 15 K Km - expensive.

Same as you, though Dr Tranny, why not try?
Decided to drain 4ltres, then instill Dr Tranny X2 to oil fill hole.
Glad I changed the oil, although it looks ok while draining, it looks dark when viewed in the receiving container, not burnt or smelly, but glad I topped up with 4ltres of new oil. (LG 6)

20KM test run: no problems so far, but early days, too soon to say if it worked, I would be happy with a "stay of execution" to get a few more years out of the box.

Good luck whichever way you choose, keep us informed please.

-Wasa

[Stuart02]

For service I'd recommend Cohuna Automatics:
auto transmissions Cohuna (http://www.cohunaautomatictransmissions.com.au/)
For a rebuild I'd either use them or ZF in Sydney, the Melb ZF agent is more expensive.

Where/who is the Melbourne ZF agent? I couldn't find them.
Local auto service guy mentioned $3500 for a reco. Is that in the ball park?

[matt_ali_walsh]

Sounds too good to be true. Cohuna Autos estimate $6-7K installed.....

[~Rich~]

A&B Automatics in Melb.

[Stuart02]

Sounds too good to be true. Cohuna Autos estimate $6-7K installed.....

Ouch

[mikeyp]

I have found that the ZF box can be very temperamental if not regularly serviced, especially in a Land Rover that tows.
This post I just found online explains it quit well.


Land Rover / Jaguar ZF transmission servicing and faults - Pickards Automotive | Car Service Centre | British and European Specilists | Melbourne (http://www.pickardsautomotive.com.au/pickards-blog/zf-transmission-service-issues-jaguar-and-landrover)

I was quoted 5000-6500 for a trans recon :(

[gotaflat]

anyone know a good place in WA to get the Transmission serviced? i.e. replaced pan etc.
I have 165,000kms now- tow bit, highish speeds (country kms). I would like to do myself (we are always fixing/servicing tractors/headers etc. at the farm so can spin a spanner and torque wrench as required) however I just have not got my head around taking spanners to the Disco..I am mildly panicking on the transmission! - 5 year warranty just up!

I asked LR at last service (this week) and they were not that keen ($1,100 quote)....along with timing belts on next service $2,000 and body off!

Thanks

[matt_ali_walsh]

The body shouldn't need to come off for belts. If it's 2.7 consider replacing the oil pump at the same time......

[gotaflat]

The body shouldn't need to come off for belts. If it's 2.7 consider replacing the oil pump at the same time......

3.0ltr Matt - I read for the 3.0 its body off for the rear timing belts?

[Disco W.A]

anyone know a good place in WA to get the Transmission serviced? i.e. replaced pan etc.
I have 165,000kms now- tow bit, highish speeds (country kms). I would like to do myself (we are always fixing/servicing tractors/headers etc. at the farm so can spin a spanner and torque wrench as required) however I just have not got my head around taking spanners to the Disco..I am mildly panicking on the transmission! - 5 year warranty just up!

I asked LR at last service (this week) and they were not that keen ($1,100 quote)....along with timing belts on next service $2,000 and body off!

Thanks




For the trans service talk to these guys, they did my D4


Automatic Transmission Services Perth | Automatic Transmissions R Us (http://www.autotransrus.com.au/)


and for the timing belts talk to Steve at Lifestyle 4WD in Morley
Lifestyle 4WD - Experience The Difference (http://www.lifestyle4wd.com.au/)

[Stuart02]

I asked LR at last service (this week) and they were not that keen ($1,100 quote).
Thanks

That's actually not out of the ball park if they're doing the double flush and using Lifeguard 6, I'm impressed you got the dealer to even quote on it!

[matt_ali_walsh]

Just a shout out to Bob Traynor at Cohuna Automatics. Our D3 had become basically undriveable, so I made the (fortunately for us) short trip to Cohuna. Bob runs a reasonably small workshop doing various things as country establishments have to. He's obviously popular with a number by the number of vehicles in his workshop. You could eat your dinner off the workshop floor.
As there wasn't a rebuild on the shelf, ours was rebuilt. With a long weekend thrown in and a couple of issues with our torque converter, the car took eight business days to finish. Bob kept me totally in the loop as to what was going on and never promised anything he couldn't deliver.
Our car was returned spotless and running like a new one. His work has a 12 month/20,000K warranty.
He drives Landys himself and knows them well. I can't recommend him highly enough.

[Roblott]

Earlier this month, I had a metal pan installed and fluid change performed by Triumph Rover Spares in Lonsdale, SA.

I have had positive experiences with their staff and happy to make the 5 hour trip each way for jobs such as this.

No noticeable change during regular driving after the work, but it gave good piece of mind during the last 4 days of beach and dune work on the West coast of Eyre Peninsula.

The vehicle performed flawlessly, and the clean fluid can only help in the service-life of these transmissions.

[DiscoMick]

Do they have a filter inside the transmission, as most ZFs do? If so I strongly recommend regular filter changes, as failure to change it can lead to transmission failure and a big bill.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

[shanegtr]

They do have a filter inside the pan. I've been looking into installing an extra filter up near the oil cooler that can be changed easily, and also a possible oil sample point as well while Im in there making extra lines etc...

[Tedio]

I have found that the ZF box can be very temperamental if not regularly serviced, especially in a Land Rover that tows.
This post I just found online explains it quit well.


Land Rover / Jaguar ZF transmission servicing and faults - Pickards Automotive | Car Service Centre | British and European Specilists | Melbourne (http://www.pickardsautomotive.com.au/pickards-blog/zf-transmission-service-issues-jaguar-and-landrover)

I was quoted 5000-6500 for a trans recon :(

After reading this I spoke to Michael and then had him service my D4 transmission. Very satisfied with the service and the cost of about $800/

[ghoti]

So, pure and simple - 189,000km on the clock of my Disco4. Is it too late to do the pan & fluid change, and if so, any recommended shops near Oakleigh Vic to do it?

Cheers,
Scott

[ghoti]

In case someone is interested, I got the conversion done at A&B Automotive Remanufacturing in Dandenong South. A very impressive facility anf their service was top notch. All up cost was $990.00.

Cheers,
Scott

[diesel]

So, pure and simple - 189,000km on the clock of my Disco4. Is it too late to do the pan & fluid change, and if so, any recommended shops near Oakleigh Vic to do it?

Cheers,
Scott

You only tend to hear horror stories on the internet, often without getting all the real world facts.

I flushed my D4 transmission this week, first ever transmission service with 210k & all good. These are very well designed transmissions, can handle a huge amount of power & abuse. Yes, it is smoother & more positive now, but keep in mind the amount of folk who have no idea & keep driving while adhering to the Land Rover service schedule without major problems.

However, I do agree that regular 50k servicing is whats needed for a long transmission life. I don't want horror stories causing people to push for a rebuild when it is not required.

The trans cooler is under the forward most cover under the front of the vehicle, the nearside pipe is the one to remove & collect the old fluid when pumping out.
When changing the pan use the traditional 'allen key' type of torxs, this will allow access to all the screws without major issues.

[ghoti]

Thanks Diesel. Report from A&B was all positive, saying no appreciable wear evident.

I plan to just take it back to them each 50,000km and get it serviced.

Cheers,
Scott

[Russrobe]

So ah, just wondering how many people have a new pair of these, and their car still vibrates between 1400-1800rpm, mostly under light load?

In saying that, I'd say they we're knackered anyway because it was shaking through the steering wheel at 100km/h too, and now doesn't.

Which leads me to my question, is a slight vibration okay or a sign of total failure imminent?

It also seems to bounce between 1400-1500rpm at 80km/h on a slight incline.

Thanks

Russ

[rambada]

Not wanting to steal the thread but can some one please advise me how to add Dr Tranny to the auto box considering its sealed? :confused:

[justinc]

So ah, just wondering how many people have a new pair of these, and their car still vibrates between 1400-1800rpm, mostly under light load?

In saying that, I'd say they we're knackered anyway because it was shaking through the steering wheel at 100km/h too, and now doesn't.

Which leads me to my question, is a slight vibration okay or a sign of total failure imminent?

It also seems to bounce between 1400-1500rpm at 80km/h on a slight incline.

Thanks

Russ

Russ that is the converter flutter and yes it is already slipping. If caught early sometimes it can help to service the trans however the damage was happening for a time before you even noticed it 😕

Jc

[justinc]

Not wanting to steal the thread but can some one please advise me how to add Dr Tranny to the auto box considering its sealed? :confused:

...engine running cold transmission just undo filler plug and quickly squirt it in. Filler plug in and go for a drive.

[Ralasa]

heres a picture of the filler plug

[Silver Surfer]

Not wanting to steal the thread but can some one please advise me how to add Dr Tranny to the auto box considering its sealed? :confused:

Engine and transmission should be warm. That gets the level down. I drive mine up a large Boulder on my property which is the same as jacking the front right corner up high. You want the fluid to run back and the the left of the car. If you do this you can take the plug out without losing fluid. The product comes with a "tip" you poke in and squirt away.

First time I used it was on an 05 model 195000km and within 3km the shudder was 100% gone. Like new. 2 tubes.

[shanegtr]

My auto seems to have developed a whine in the the lower gears. Most noticeable 2nd gear on overrun. Also in the last two days it seems to get stuck in what feels like 3rd at the first intersection I stop at. After that it's all good. Any ideas

Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

[shanegtr]

Well I've decided to cut short my holiday due to the auto noise - we where planning to camp on the beach which would have involved dragging our camper trailer through the sand so didn't want to risk overloading it and having a big failure in an awkward spot. Trans got stuck in 6th this morning at a roundabout so didnt pull away real quick. Big F on dash with limited gears available. P0730 fault code recorded. A restart sorted it for now, but need to get home first (300km away).quick check of oil level and that's OK. Next issue will be to get it down to perth to have it looked at. Any recommendations for repairers in perth?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

[Dagilmo]

Sorry to hear about your troubles. I've spoken to a couple of guys and had them go for a ride in mine trying to find the cause of a 'shudder' in 3rd. From my experience I'd see Drew at Automatic Transmissions R Us in Balcatta. I was impressed because it seems mine is not the usual 'death shudder' and may not be transmission related at all, Drew sent me off to check some of the logged fault codes related to miss fueling (IIRC- Getting them looked at next service) when he could have, at a minimum, got me in for a tranny service. Further he seems very knowledgeable on the ZF unit.


Anyway that's my two cents worth. Hope it gets you home without further trouble.

[shanegtr]

spoke to Kevin at Rover Tech. He suggested checking out the transfer case ECU as that can cause auto issues. So I've pulled the ECU and there is a little corrosion around the pins - one pin appears loose. I can understand how this could affect the trans shifting, cant figure out the mechanical sound Im hearing however. Got home ok, but now gotta look at getting it a further 1400km to perth to get someone decent to look at it (mechanics here just seem keen to throw land rover insults at you because its not a toyota)

[shanegtr]

Well, was going to run the gauntlet and get the disco to Perth to have it looked at, but the auto had other ideas and appears to have crapped itself completely. So its onto a backload from Tom Price to Perth as we speak to get looked at down there.

[Narangga]

That's a bugger - especially when you are a distance from anyone with any interest in assisting at all.

[eddy]

Have dealt with Maurie at Transmissions R Us Balcatta ,excellent.If south of the river try Tony at Global Automatics,Bibra Lake.94343718

[shanegtr]

Just an update on my auto trans since it failed. The auto mech stripped the box and found it fairly heavily damaged. They decided to send it to zf in Sydney for the rebuild. Just got word today that the mechatronic is stuffed and needs replacing. At least another 2 weeks wait as on needs to come from Germany. Can't wait to have my car back as I'm sick of bloody toyota rental cars

Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

[101RRS]

07MY RRS 2.7

Ok - got the genuine ZF metal pan and filter etc to go in and currently have 10 litres of oil - with access to more if needed.

So doing the oil change/pan change at home what is the best way to go.

1. Just drop the pan and change it and refill with the approx 5 litres new oil and then drive for 1000km and then drop the oil in the gearbox sump and refill; or

2. Disconnect the cooler hoses at the oil cooler and with the engine running catch the dirty oil coming out the oil cooler inlet pipe with fresh oil going in the oil cooler outlet pipe back to the transmission.

If 2, do you have do the sump/filter change before or after the oil change? Also does the transmission go into in park or drive or neutral as the oil is being pumped out and new oil pumped in. Does the engine have to be running?

Responses from those who have done it would be appreciated. I appreciate there is a little more to the oil change but the above are bits I am unsure of.

Thanks

Garry

[Roland]

Well I've decided to cut short my holiday due to the auto noise - we where planning to camp on the beach which would have involved dragging our camper trailer through the sand so didn't want to risk overloading it and having a big failure in an awkward spot. Trans got stuck in 6th this morning at a roundabout so didnt pull away real quick. Big F on dash with limited gears available. P0730 fault code recorded. A restart sorted it for now, but need to get home first (300km away).quick check of oil level and that's OK. Next issue will be to get it down to perth to have it looked at. Any recommendations for repairers in perth?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

I have a 2010 Disco 4 with 150,000Kms on the clock which I bought recently quite cheaply! The transmission was shuddering a great deal so I decided to have a reconditioned box installed. Barbagallo (state agents) put me onto Precision Autos in Osborne park where they send all their auto problems. Took 2 days to remove the old box and fit the new one. They have several boxes already overhauled ready to go on the rack! Cost $6500. (ouch!) When I picked up the car I was able to see the old box which was already dismantled. Torque converter lock-up plates have been slipping and all the bushings in the main housing area were very worn. It has a 12 month guarantee and I have been told to take it back then for a complete oil change and have regular changes after that. Car is good now, changes are smooth and almost un-noticeable. Also the reconditioned box comes with the metal sump.
Roland

[shanegtr]

I have a 2010 Disco 4 with 150,000Kms on the clock which I bought recently quite cheaply! The transmission was shuddering a great deal so I decided to have a reconditioned box installed. Barbagallo (state agents) put me onto Precision Autos in Osborne park where they send all their auto problems. Took 2 days to remove the old box and fit the new one. They have several boxes already overhauled ready to go on the rack! Cost $6500. (ouch!) When I picked up the car I was able to see the old box which was already dismantled. Torque converter lock-up plates have been slipping and all the bushings in the main housing area were very worn. It has a 12 month guarantee and I have been told to take it back then for a complete oil change and have regular changes after that. Car is good now, changes are smooth and almost un-noticeable. Also the reconditioned box comes with the metal sump.
Roland

That a quick turn around for you. I'm still waiting for the trans to get back from Sydney for mine.........

Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

[Ralasa]

Hi Gary did mine recently , I did a complete dyi flush , I bought a small 12 volt pump of ebay , disconnected the top hose on the oil cooler replaced it with a clear plastic hose , just to see what direction the flow went , then ran a hose to a bucket to catch the old fluid, setup the pump to pump in the new fluid in , oh I drove the car around for awhile to get it up to temp, so then start up the car ran through the gears then left it in drive, oil comes out quick so i put a clamp on to restrict it a bit , while the 12 volt pump pumps in new fluid , I stopped it after the old fluid started to change to clean fluid , I used about 14 ltrs , then reconnected the hose back to the cooler , then with the car in drive remove the plug for filing on the transmission and top up until it comes out , if you don't have it in drive and running oil will pore out, also i put 2 tubes of DR Tranny in it , runs sweet now, cheer Pete
here the pump i used
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Excellent-12v-Motor-Oil-Diesel-Extractor-Scavenge-Suction-Transfer-Change-Pump-/161824940227?

[101RRS]

Thanks Ralasa - great advice - I see that the Brits are using garden pressure sprayers to get the oil so I might investigate that was well - though the electric pump will come in handy for other oil changes.

Cheers

Garry

[crawal]

There is a dude on you tube that has dumped the oil from the sump and just refilled it using a funnel and gravity .

[Roland]

I have a 2010 Disco 4 with 150,000Kms on the clock which I bought recently quite cheaply! The transmission was shuddering a great deal so I decided to have a reconditioned box installed. Barbagallo (state agents) put me onto Precision Autos in Osborne park where they send all their auto problems. Took 2 days to remove the old box and fit the new one. They have several boxes already overhauled ready to go on the rack! Cost $6500. (ouch!) When I picked up the car I was able to see the old box which was already dismantled. Torque converter lock-up plates have been slipping and all the bushings in the main housing area were very worn. It has a 12 month guarantee and I have been told to take it back then for a complete oil change and have regular changes after that. Car is good now, changes are smooth and almost un-noticeable. Also the reconditioned box comes with the metal sump.
Roland

Well, I went back for the first check up (1000Ks) and all is well. Changes are very smooth and there is no shuddering of slipping clutches in the torque converter. Ian (Precision Autos) did a comprehensive driving test in the car and he was quite happy with the result. So now, all I have to do is go back in 12 months for a complete oil change as I have been told this should be done on a regular basis.
Roland

[carlschmid2002]

Anyone in SE Qld who is considering a service consider MR Autos. They are LR specialists and they just did a pan, filter and oil change for $700. They charge $28 a litre for Lifeguard 6. I couldn't find it anywhere for that price. My new to me D4, had just clicked over 90000kms and they strongly suggested I do it now. I was very happy with the service and I believe all the things I got done on the car would have cost double at a dealer. I got a loner car for the day to. It wasn't a new RR or D4. It was Dunnydore, but I am not complaining.

[Tombie]

I got a loner car for the day to. It wasn't a new RR or D4. It was Dunnydore, but I am not complaining.


A second class drive is always better than a first class walk..

[DiscoMick]

Hi Gary did mine recently , I did a complete dyi flush , I bought a small 12 volt pump of ebay , disconnected the top hose on the oil cooler replaced it with a clear plastic hose , just to see what direction the flow went , then ran a hose to a bucket to catch the old fluid, setup the pump to pump in the new fluid in , oh I drove the car around for awhile to get it up to temp, so then start up the car ran through the gears then left it in drive, oil comes out quick so i put a clamp on to restrict it a bit , while the 12 volt pump pumps in new fluid , I stopped it after the old fluid started to change to clean fluid , I used about 14 ltrs , then reconnected the hose back to the cooler , then with the car in drive remove the plug for filing on the transmission and top up until it comes out , if you don't have it in drive and running oil will pore out, also i put 2 tubes of DR Tranny in it , runs sweet now, cheer Pete
here the pump i used
Excellent 12V Motor OIL Diesel Extractor Scavenge Suction Transfer Change Pump | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Excellent-12v-Motor-Oil-Diesel-Extractor-Scavenge-Suction-Transfer-Change-Pump-/161824940227?)
Stores like Autobarn, Repco and Supercheap should have little pump bottles for getting oil into awkward places such as diffs. I bought mine from Autobarn.

[crawal]

try something like this i think they are around $20.00
https://www.stm.net.au/hand-pumps/1-litre-oil-pump/ca586-1-litre-tom-thumb-oil-pump

[Ralasa]

They are ok for topping up the transmission , but not fast enough for complete flush, will drain the transmission

[SuperMono]

As this is a bit of a catch all thread on transmissions....

Has anyone else had the transmission shudder get worse (much worse) following a transmisison oil change?

A few weeks ago I had a service on the D4 (2.7L, 6 speed ZF) and as there was a seal weeping (torque converter) I had the transmission serviced (oil/filter etc) while I was spending money on labor to drop the gearbox out.

Before the service, maybe a very minor vibration detected sometimes, highway speed, low revs.
Say a 1 on a scale of 1-10.
Barely noticable and I'm still not honestly sure it was the car rather than road surface.

After the service, will shudder like running over rumble strips at any speed between about 30-110kph with light load and 1500-2000RPM, at it's worst centred around 1700-1800RPM.
Say a 6 on a scale of 1-10.
Horrible and needs to be driven manually to avoid the speed/load trigger for the shudder.

First I thought maybe an engine mount or similar had given up while they jacked things around (no), then it was suggested maybe the torque converter wasn't bolted back in the same rotational position (has been slipped around by 1 set of holes, no difference).

Anyone else had the same issue?

If it was like this before the service I would have told them to forget the minor weep, just wait until the transmission died and I would spend the money then.

[Plane Fixer]

Did the service centre use the ZF oil? If they have used the substitute oil this will be where the problem could be. Been there and done that.
With the other oil it was snatching, flaring, and having harsh changes. I honestly thought I was up for an overhaul, but when the correct fluid was used at the service I now have my silky smooth shifts back.

[LRD414]

Has anyone else had the transmission shudder get worse (much worse) following a transmisison oil change?
.... I had the transmission serviced (oil/filter etc) while I was spending money on labor to drop the gearbox out.
....After the service, will shudder like running over rumble strips at any speed between about 30-110kph with light load and 1500-2000RPM ....
.... Horrible and needs to be driven manually to avoid the speed/load trigger for the shudder.
If it's not an issue of non-genuine oil as mentioned above, then this could be related to the wearing of soft bushes.
There is a specific affected VIN range & the issue can be worsened by an oil change.
I can't find the thread discussing this problem in detail but do recall Graeme had this issue with his.

Regards,
Scott

[Graeme]

Worn stator bushes cause clutch E to not engage within the allowed time due to insufficient fluid pressure which triggers a specific fault code indicating clutch E timing failure. IIRC clutch E is used for 4th, 5th and 6th gears. Mine would drop out of 6th prematurely, fail to engage 5th within the allowed time then try to re-engage 6th with a fair amount of shudder trying to stay in 6th, then drop to 3rd and limp mode at the same time. The frequency of the failure increased quite quickly over the space of around 10 days. Driving in 4th using light throttle allowed the vehicle to be used for a further few of weeks.

Edit: It didn't start to fail until a couple of weeks after the oil change.

[SydneyDisco]

First post, having recently purchased a 2012 D4 HSE, thought I'd share a recent quote from an indie LR to fully flush the 6HP26A trans with 55KM's on it for my D4

Metal Pan $285
21 Screws for the Pan $95 :o
Gasket $85
Filter $85
Fluid $450 (15L @ $30 P/ltr)
Labour $435 (3.6hrs @ $121 p/hr)

Total $1435

They add Dr Tranny ($35) regardless of the a shudder being present or not.

Struck me as very odd they would break out the Metal Pan Kit as separate items when I know it comes as a kit, also 3.6hrs to do this job seems high.

Only normal'sih thing is the fluid charge.

I know trans fluid tends to smell abit fishy but this quote smelt worse.

As I'm not in the habit of being taken over the table, yesterday I purchased 20Ltr of ZF fluid and a metal sump kit for $530 + $185. Screws where not extra :)

Maybe 1.5 hrs labour max ?

[Disco-tastic]

I was recently quoted $520 to do the oil change with new metal sump. I didn't check that it was LF6 oil but will before i book it in.

[Meccles]

I brought the kit from Rimmer Bros in U.K. It was their easy fit kit which shows as Britpart however mine came with German part numbers stamped in sump and filter. My Mechanic thought they were genuine. Included was sump, filter, bolts and gasket. Currently listed at 72quid. Shipping was cheap. I got engine service done - all fluids and filters, front diff oil changed, new filter kit fitted using Lifeguard oil. Total of tab was $930 not including purchase price of tranny sump/filter kit. The only error he made was not to reset auto computer. He thought oil that came out of tranny was perfect and no different from new. There is 65k on car. But auto knew better, and sensed the change, so defaulted to neutral. Which was interesting:o solution was to re start car, go back, re set computer so it can re learn the new oil etc. Now all good. I would suggest checking with Rimmerbros if buying where Britpart get their parts from if like mine they were we think genuine ZF.

[101RRS]

I have found ZF were the cheapest and you get the right product. I did look at one on ebay for the same price as the ZF product but it did not have a drain hole/plug so the pan would have to come off just to do a basic drain and fill.

So something to look for when you change over to a metal sump.

Garry

[Stuart02]

I've noticed lately that on steady 60 or 70 kph hills, the revs oscillate between 1200 and 1400 rpm. Is that a bad sign? Will Dr Tranny get some extra life out of the old bloke?

[Russrobe]

I've noticed lately that on steady 60 or 70 kph hills, the revs oscillate between 1200 and 1400 rpm. Is that a bad sign? Will Dr Tranny get some extra life out of the old bloke?

Does it vibrate at all Stuart? Especially on light throttle up an incline.

There was a VIN specific problem around 2008 to 2010 that I learnt about on here. It caused a part to wear faster than usual and at 200 000 km's mine required a rebuild. Had the oscillation and vibration at times. Usually around 80km/h.

[Dagilmo]

As title suggests, can you put a D4 (6speed) tranny into a D3?

[Stuart02]

Does it vibrate at all Stuart? Especially on light throttle up an incline.

There was a VIN specific problem around 2008 to 2010 that I learnt about on here. It caused a part to wear faster than usual and at 200 000 km's mine required a rebuild. Had the oscillation and vibration at times. Usually around 80km/h.
Yeah I'm not sure what constitutes vibration but it's had a harsh resonance for a long time which everyone wants to pass off as tyre related, but I can hear/feel it varying with the revs at constant speed...
Might have to start budgeting....

[Russrobe]

Yep, at first the vibration was very mild but as we approached 7000kms of owning it, at times i'd say moderate vibration. Always through the body, never felt through the steering wheel.

[LandyAndy]

As title suggests, can you put a D4 (6speed) tranny into a D3?

In essence,YES.
You need advice from those in the know.The "mechatronic" in them will need swapping out.the brain that does mechanical to electronic.
Andrew

[Hammer H]

Had my oil changed at 230,000 as the box developed a shudder, it fixed the problem. Recently I've noticed a shudder again it's now over 250,000. Where's the best place to get the Dr Tranny, it's $11 odd on eBay but shipping is about $40. Would have thought it would be more available.

[gandalf]

Had my oil changed at 230,000 as the box developed a shudder, it fixed the problem. Recently I've noticed a shudder again it's now over 250,000. Where's the best place to get the Dr Tranny, it's $11 odd on eBay but shipping is about $40. Would have thought it would be more available.
Bursons had it in stock last time i bought some

[Stuart02]

Yep, at first the vibration was very mild but as we approached 7000kms of owning it, at times i'd say moderate vibration. Always through the body, never felt through the steering wheel.
Hmmm drove up some of the steep side streets in Lorne today, first gear high range about 15 to 20 kph and could feel some very harsh vibrations pulsing in and out... interesting test actually.

[rar110]

Mmm, doesn't sound right. Have you cleared the trans settings? It could be relearning.

[justinc]

I've noticed lately that on steady 60 or 70 kph hills, the revs oscillate between 1200 and 1400 rpm. Is that a bad sign? Will Dr Tranny get some extra life out of the old bloke?

Short answer is torque converter lockup clutch is the culprit. Depending on kms on the box a new converter alone may sort it.
Dr tranny may lessen the symptoms however masking them is only postponing the inevitable.
I have replaced only the torque converters in these successfully in the past.

Jc

[Stuart02]

Short answer is torque converter lockup clutch is the culprit. Depending on kms on the box a new converter alone may sort it.
Dr tranny may lessen the symptoms however masking them is only postponing the inevitable.
I have replaced only the torque converters in these successfully in the past.

Jc
Thanks, that's a glimmer of hope!

[Stuart02]

Mmm, doesn't sound right. Have you cleared the trans settings? It could be relearning.
I've done a hard reset on the car recently, nothing trans specific...

[Stuart02]

Short answer is torque converter lockup clutch is the culprit. Depending on kms on the box a new converter alone may sort it.
Dr tranny may lessen the symptoms however masking them is only postponing the inevitable.
I have replaced only the torque converters in these successfully in the past.

Jc
If the torque converter is the issue, is there a chance of catastrophic failure or can I just put up with it until it gets really annoying/I have the money spare to deal with it?

[justinc]

If the torque converter is the issue, is there a chance of catastrophic failure or can I just put up with it until it gets really annoying/I have the money spare to deal with it?

Sooner is best. The lockup clutch material is already blocking up the filter and causing low line pressures and eventually it will disappear altogether and then metal fragments from the clutch surfaces will spell the end of the transmission.

Jc

[Stuart02]

Sooner is best. The lockup clutch material is already blocking up the filter and causing low line pressures and eventually it will disappear altogether and then metal fragments from the clutch surfaces will spell the end of the transmission.

Jc
Thanks, I'll get on it... :/

[Geedublya]

Sooner is best. The lockup clutch material is already blocking up the filter and causing low line pressures and eventually it will disappear altogether and then metal fragments from the clutch surfaces will spell the end of the transmission.

Jc

Exactly what my transmission specialist told me.

Unfortunately when they checked the filter there was metal in it so a full rebuild was required. (this was my previous D3)

I now get the transmission serviced every 40K. If it starts to shudder I will get the torque converter done immediately. Hopefully with the transmission being serviced regularly the stator bush doesn't raise it's head.

[Stuart02]

Exactly what my transmission specialist told me.

Unfortunately when they checked the filter there was metal in it so a full rebuild was required. (this was my previous D3)

I now get the transmission serviced every 40K. If it starts to shudder I will get the torque converter done immediately. Hopefully with the transmission being serviced regularly the stator bush doesn't raise it's head.
Does $1300 to replace the torque converter sound in the ball park?

[justinc]

Where's that from? Pm me if you want.

Jc

[shanegtr]

Thought it worth while to post this up here as some of you may be interested. With 24,000km on my rebuilt trans I took an oil sample for analysis. As a result Ive now installed a magnafine inline filter on the cooler return line as the particle count (ISO cleanliness rating) was way to high for my liking. I'll resample the oil after probably 5,000km and see if theres been any improvment to the particle count and post up the results

[mr_squiggle]

Thought it worth while to post this up here as some of you may be interested. With 24,000km on my rebuilt trans I took an oil sample for analysis. As a result Ive now installed a magnafine inline filter on the cooler return line as the particle count (ISO cleanliness rating) was way to high for my liking. I'll resample the oil after probably 5,000km and see if theres been any improvment to the particle count and post up the results

Would you please share what the filter is, make, mode etc and where you got it from. A photo or two would be handy as well if you can.

[Tombie]

Thought it worth while to post this up here as some of you may be interested. With 24,000km on my rebuilt trans I took an oil sample for analysis. As a result Ive now installed a magnafine inline filter on the cooler return line as the particle count (ISO cleanliness rating) was way to high for my liking. I'll resample the oil after probably 5,000km and see if theres been any improvment to the particle count and post up the results

Shane, what composition were the particulates?

If non-ferrous (eg, bearing or clutch material) then the Magnafine will be less useful, as only the filtration media in it is hopefully capturing some material..

In which case - a conventional filter may be cheaper and more effective.

[shanegtr]

Would you please share what the filter is, make, mode etc and where you got it from. A photo or two would be handy as well if you can.

Filter is a magnafine 1/2", can be purchased from western filters:
Magnefine 12mm (1/2") Magnetic Inline Transmission Power Steering Filter - www.westernfilters.net (https://www.westernfilters.net.au/magnefine-12mm-1-2-magnetic-inline-transmission-power-steering-filter/)

[shanegtr]

Shane, what composition were the particulates?

If non-ferrous (eg, bearing or clutch material) then the Magnafine will be less useful, as only the filtration media in it is hopefully capturing some material..

In which case - a conventional filter may be cheaper and more effective.

Main contaimants are iron and copper - close to 50:50 at 35 and 37 ppm. Dosent sound like much but when the trans failed it was 109 and 116ppm. I mainly went for the magnafine for the ease of installation at this time. Your right a conventional filter will likely be much cheaper and a larger spin on filter will be more effective and last longer. I just need the spare time to figure out where Im going to mount it as I think that will be the way I'll go in the future.

[rar110]

Thought it worth while to post this up here as some of you may be interested. With 24,000km on my rebuilt trans I took an oil sample for analysis. As a result Ive now installed a magnafine inline filter on the cooler return line as the particle count (ISO cleanliness rating) was way to high for my liking. I'll resample the oil after probably 5,000km and see if theres been any improvment to the particle count and post up the results

Sounds like an interesting mod for the post 08 6HP26.

[Disco-tastic]

Im interested to see what the filter looks like when you next change the oil. How long until the fine paper filter blocks enough oil to start starving the trans?

[shanegtr]

Im interested to see what the filter looks like when you next change the oil. How long until the fine paper filter blocks enough oil to start starving the trans?
Theres a bypass in the filter in the event that it blocks[wink11]

[mcwazza]

I've just been quoted $1250 for D3's first transmission service with metal sump conversion and genuine parts and fluid. Perth northern suburbs.

[Jturton]

Hi all,
just had the transmission service at 106km on our D4, bit later than I'd hoped.
now the revs seem to lag and swim a bit in a few gears.
do I need to use my iid tool to reset the box so it learns the new fluid? How?
cheers

[mr_squiggle]

Hi all,
just had the transmission service at 106km on our D4, bit later than I'd hoped.
now the revs seem to lag and swim a bit in a few gears.
do I need to use my iid tool to reset the box so it learns the new fluid? How?
cheers

The manual requires a reset of the adaptations when servicing the box. It's located in the Service Test/Transmission/Clear Adaption. Reset the values and take the car for a drive.
No need to flog it, but allow it to shift under medium load & throttle. It may take a few drive cycles to settle itself down.
If you really want to geek out record the initial numbers before reset & see where they return to. They're arbitrary numbers as far as I can tell (i.e. the unit of measurement is elephants).

[Stuart02]

Out of interest has anyone attempted or even contemplated replacing their 6 speed with a later 8 speed?

[Disco-tastic]

Hi all,
just had the transmission service at 106km on our D4, bit later than I'd hoped.
now the revs seem to lag and swim a bit in a few gears.
do I need to use my iid tool to reset the box so it learns the new fluid? How?
cheersLate to the party i know, but I intentionally didn't reset my transmission settings after reading about it messing up the gear changes.

The gearbox software modifies the shift points and whatnot as the box wears to minimise slippage and keep it performimg as expected. Apparently if enough wear has occurred and the box is reset, it forgets all of that learning, and then when its standard shift mapping is all slurry and sloppy, throws a fault saying the transmissions faulty.

As mine had fiest been done at 116k km and then 170k km i didnt want to risk it!

Did you ask you service guy/girl if they reset the gearbox software when they did it?

[Disco-tastic]

Out of interest has anyone attempted or even contemplated replacing their 6 speed with a later 8 speed?I have a feeling thats more hassle than its worth...

[Stuart02]

Yeah I figured if it was even slightly easy someone would have done it...

[Disco-tastic]

Yeah I figured if it was even alightly easy someone woyld have done it...There's enough nutters out there that like a challenge that even if it was somewhat possible someone may have tried it.

Some people stuffed a 2.7 TDV6 and 6 speed in a Discovery 1... that would drive nice :)

[DiscoJeffster]

Late to the party i know, but I intentionally didn't reset my transmission settings after reading about it messing up the gear changes.

The gearbox software modifies the shift points and whatnot as the box wears to minimise slippage and keep it performimg as expected. Apparently if enough wear has occurred and the box is reset, it forgets all of that learning, and then when its standard shift mapping is all slurry and sloppy, throws a fault saying the transmissions faulty.

As mine had fiest been done at 116k km and then 170k km i didnt want to risk it!

Did you ask you service guy/girl if they reset the gearbox software when they did it?

I reset my 240k km annually and it's fine. Shifts like **** initially but sorts itself quickly.

[Disco-tastic]

I reset my 240k km annually and it's fine. Shifts like **** initially but sorts itself quickly.That is good to know.

When i was googling it i saw a few that had a bad experience and decided i wouldnt risk it, as it was shifting fine when i got it back from the transmission workshop (who intentionally didn't reset it)

[Disco-tastic]

I reset my 240k km annually and it's fine. Shifts like **** initially but sorts itself quickly.Just curious, why do you reset it every year and not just after an oil change?

[DiscoJeffster]

Just curious, why do you reset it every year and not just after an oil change?

Because each year I'm dropping between 4 - 5 litres to flush it out. I've done two changes so far so soon it will be nearly all fresh fluid. Basically I'm changing it when I do the engine oil as it's not been done since new.
Eventually I will be happy it's all clean enough and leave it for a few years. That'll probably be the year I do the coolant

[BrianElloy]

I've just been quoted $1250 for D3's first transmission service with metal sump conversion and genuine parts and fluid. Perth northern suburbs.

to me that sounds a bit rich .. the part itself is pretty cheap, the labour should also be cheap as the (new) metal pan doesn't warrant the long and laborious old method of jacking up the engine.. most of the cost would be in the transmission fluid would it not?

thinking about getting mine done also.

[Disco-tastic]

My local indy quoted about 900 for just oils and filter, as romoving and replacing the sump is a pain in the arse.

1250 is a bit on the high side i would have thought.

[Stuart02]

Yeah the price does seem to vary, possibly depending on whether they flush with, and replace, the fresh fluid, which doubles the fluid cost for starters

[PerthDisco]

What is the reduction in cost you should expect for the 2nd flush after putting the steel pan on the first time it was done?

[PerthDisco]

Ok different spin. Have been quoted $950 for a dual flush but $650 for a single flush. A single drop and fill seems to do most of the job. What's the opinion?

[101RRS]

See my response to your same question in the other thread.

Just a drain and refill only changes about 1/3 of the oil in the system.

Garry

[Ralph1Malph]

Hi All,
Annoyingly, I am still confused after reading most of the 40 odd pages of this thread![wink11]

I've owned my 06 TDV6 D3 for a year-ish now and am ready to do stuff!
Transmission service is the one thing I'm up for soon as I can.

I haven't even checked if I've got a metal or plastic pan, but no matter, that's pretty straight forward.

What still haven't found through searching and reading is a definitive answer as to whether LF6 is the go to fluid to use or whether alternatives exist?
If LF6 is the go to fluid, where do most folks (I'm in Bris) source it from?

Once I know that I'll start to gather the bits and read about the change process! [bighmmm]

Cheers
Ralph

[DiscoJeffster]

What still haven't found through searching and reading is a definitive answer as to whether LF6 is the go to fluid to use or whether alternatives exist?

Contentious topic! 99% will say lifeguard only. Me, I don't like to go with the norm, love to buck the trend, so I'm running Motul ATF VI which meets the specification and hasn't caused me any issues so far, 30,000km down.
Motul Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF VI 100% Synthetic 1L | Sparesbox (https://www.sparesbox.com.au/motul-automatic-transmission-fluid-atf-vi-100-synthetic-1l-moatfvi001)

Each to their own.

[PerthDisco]

Booked mine in for next week. Tranny shop said they are yet to find an alternative they can recommend to the Lifeguard 6 oil. Price of that oil not coming down either.

He also added that the transfer case fluid they have deduced is also the same Lifeguard oil.

[90 Rangie]

I use the genuine transfer oil and lifeguard 6 the transfer oil feels different and is a lighter colour so do not think it is the same oil. They do different jobs so wouldn't expect them to be the same

[101RRS]

Price of that oil not coming down either.

He also added that the transfer case fluid they have deduced is also the same Lifeguard oil.

Last week I bought 5 x 1 litre bottles of Lifeguard 6 for $29 each with NRMA discount at REPCO - they have their specials every couple of weeks so if you are not in a hurry works out well.

Alternatively you can buy 20 litre drums from ZF and this works out about $26 a litre.

The transfer case oil is completely different to LG6 - DO NOT put LG6 in your transfer case.

Garry

[PerthDisco]

Paid Automatic Transmissions R Us in Balcatta $900 for full service based on 2nd time with steel pan. 173,000km (last done 89,000km) and they said everything was AOK with old oil. No detectable change in operation after the oil change.

[casta66]

Hey I just moved over to a D3 TDV6, from my (not so) trusty D2. I am about to have the tranny rebuilt. Could anyone let me know what other jobs I should be doing whilst the box is out? I was told the electrical connector sleeve. Anthing else? Thanks!

[Nankas]

Did you purchase the car with a transmission problem?

[casta66]

Did you purchase the car with a transmission problem?
Yep i actually run a used car dealership. Ive taken the d3 knowing about the transmission issue but feel the car was cheap enough to allow me to rebuild it. Got a good transmission guy here in Wollongong.

[loanrangie]

Yep i actually run a used car dealership. Ive taken the d3 knowing about the transmission issue but feel the car was cheap enough to allow me to rebuild it. Got a good transmission guy here in Wollongong.
So you are allowing for 6k + for the rebuild ?

[Nankas]

I recently purchased possibly the first d3 to enter the country 04 build 233k on the clock transmission never serviced. TC would not lock up, would not change from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th without going into fault and limp mode. Drove it home by using sport mode and manually selecting gears and using accelerator to get transmission to shift. After being told transmission rebuild by a number of people. Had Damien at Peninsula Rangie do a service flush and a few additives and transmission has recovered significantly. Change between 3rd and 4th is still a bit variable and TC is still not 100 percent but very close (neither is my 08 d3). Towed with it which helped it even more. Will do another change in 10k time to see if any more improvement.

The short of it is that I think the ZF transmission is an incredibly strong unit and that rebuilds are done when not required.

I don’t know what Damien put in the transmission all he has told me is he doesn’t use the ZF fluid and put in a number of additives. I am amazed at how well the transmission has responded.

Having owned d1, 2 x d2, 2 x d3 I have learnt not to listen to all the negatives and challenge what I am told these are great vehicles.

[PerthDisco]

233000km is bang on the ‘sealed for life’ service interval

[casta66]

So you are allowing for 6k + for the rebuild ?

I send him a lot of work. He reckons he rebuilds to a higher spec than ZF on bushes and clutch, inc metal sump = $4500 for me [smilebigeye]

[Nankas]

Yes even though the transmission had been playing up for the last 60k and the previous owner did nothing. It was not lost on me that it lasted to 233k and has recovered after the service and continues to improve. I have spent $800 on the transmission and the purpose of my post was to try and save others from spending money on a rebuild when it may not be necessary.

[Discovered 1 2]

Couldn’t agree more. I bought my old D3 done 140,000k with a shuddering box. I kept dropping fluid and topping it up every 30,000km with everything from genuine lr fluid to fuchs to Shell atf, all had different dye colours, sulphurs contents etc. Sold it with 350,000k on it with a perfectly shifting box - better than when I got it.. applying the same methodology to my D4 (I’m using Fuchs), same positive result. My humble suggestions (and excuse the detail but someone might value it):

1. Put a steel pan and filter on it once.

2. When topping up, do it with the engine running. Ie - Make sure disco is level, Drain atf out trans sump hole, put plug back in, pump atf in side hole, keep putting in til it drips out side hole, leave the side plug off, get in, put foot on brake, turn it on, push through reverse and a 1st /2nd/3rd manually without moving, put in Park, handbrake on, get back under it, put more atf in side hole until it drips out while it’s idling, tighten up side plug. People sometimes don’t put the last 800ml in. When I forgot to it flared and carried on like a female dog until I did.

3. Use an iid tool or something to reset the trans ecu settings once every 90,000k to tell it to not compensate for old fluid anymore. IID tool handbook advises this is done post fluid change but not too regularly. Independent lr shop might do this for you.

4. Drive it 1000k before you pass judgement. While I always notice a difference straight away. It’ll often take a while for the ecu to recalibrate itself (regardless if it was reset or not) and for the fresh fluid to have its full effect.

Makes me wonder how many time a disco trans has been “rebuilt” when all they did was chuck a pan on it, top it up properly, reset its ecu and drive it for a bit.

[Discovered 1 2]

Sorry for the rant but i suggest thinking about it this way - would BMW, Jaguar, Ford, Aston Martin, Hyundai, Rolls Royce, Mercedes, Maserati, Kia, Bentley, VW, Audi and Landrover all be using or have used a variation of this box if it was a fragile, high maintenance POS? finicky, perhaps. Tough as nails if you treat it properly, IMO, my oath my friends [bigsmile1]..

PS, draining the ATF fluid and a top up can be done with minimal tools, i think a 10mm socket and 2 allen keys, size dependant on the sump you have on, a cheap plastic oil pan and a tom thumb pump and a funnel (O and a towel that's fallen out of favour with SWMBO). Its a 4 stubby job if you drink quickly and can be done on a concrete slab with the suspension set at off road height.

STM TOM THUMB UTILITY PUMP (https://www.autobarn.com.au/stm-1-litre-tomb-thumb-oil-pump-ca586)

I use Fuchs 4134, it's supposedly the correct one for D4 and is used by heavier Mercedes applications, have found absolutely no reason to disagree. Burson's sell it.

This is just what I do but it works. Anyone wanting to take my 165k D4 SDV6 for test drive around the block to validate my theory is welcome within reason.

[casta66]

Thanks for the posts, I have been carefully reading. So my rebuild is booked in for next Tuesday. And even though it's cheaper than normal at 4.5k, thats still a lot of money. So why not try this first. Can I get your options first... my tranny guy reckoned pretty well everything about the box is stuffed. It takes 6 seconds to engage revered. It's constantly searching for gear. I get an error code to do with shift malfunction. Is it worth trying the oil and filter change and leave for a month? Thanks.

[casta66]

Following on from above, there is also a slight grinding noise (sounds like actuator to me) between gears. I'm happy to give the fluid change a go just wanted to check of its a complete waste.

[casta66]

Ok so I decided to drop the fluid today. Replaced about 4L so far, will drive for 100kms and do it again. I also cleared the adaptive data in the transmission module. It's now driving awfully, as expected. 3 transmission codes now appearing relating to shift between gears and gear ratios. I'm guessing u should give it a few hundred kms to see if it improves?

[DiscoJeffster]

Ok so I decided to drop the fluid today. Replaced about 4L so far, will drive for 100kms and do it again. I also cleared the adaptive data in the transmission module. It's now driving awfully, as expected. 3 transmission codes now appearing relating to shift between gears and gear ratios. I'm guessing u should give it a few hundred kms to see if it improves?

Make sure you fill it as described above with the engine running as well else you won’t have put back enough fluid

[Discovered 1 2]

Ok so I decided to drop the fluid today. Replaced about 4L so far, will drive for 100kms and do it again. I also cleared the adaptive data in the transmission module. It's now driving awfully, as expected. 3 transmission codes now appearing relating to shift between gears and gear ratios. I'm guessing u should give it a few hundred kms to see if it improves?

I’ve personally never dealt with a transmission that’s taken that long to find reverse or shown codes but I’d have done the same thing you’ve done. If the new fluid is going to save it I think it’ll take at least 1000km before you’ll start to feel improvement though.. was the fluid you dropped out as black as the ace of spades? If not it probably means someone’s tired the fluid trick with no results....

[justinc]

This is a 4hp22e correct? D2 is shown in signature line...🤔

Jc

[casta66]

Thanks guys, yep it's a D3, i still have the D2 but switching over. Wow I didn't think it would take so may kms to improve. Might have to put the rebuild off!

[Geoffd2]

Hi, Just thought I would share my ZF horror story, It may help some people. I have a D3 2009 with 120.000 klms. It was slipping on take off after a short drive, so I thought I would have it serviced. I paid $1000 for the service. It was done by a Land rover specialist in Brisbane. When I got it back it was still slipping. The new steel pan was fitted but it was leaking bad. I rang them and they told me to take to a Transmission guy. I thought im not even going to deal with these people again and got on the internet and find a ZF guru and get it done properly. On this site the only recommendations where in Melbourne. So after some research I found Direct drive in Seventeen mile rocks. He suggested a rebuild. Quoted $4500.00. I rang two other land rover specialist and they said they would call me back with a price, but never did. So I took it to Direct Drive and he pulled it out and first found one of the bolt from the pan had broke and the person who done the first service glued the head of the bolt in. In the transmission there are apparently 8 plastic bushes and four where completely gone. He replaces them heavy duty nylon bushes which he says will last forever. He over hauled the converter , put a solenoid set in and a accumulator set. Now it drives better than new. Comes with a 2 year warranty. So if anyone in Brisbane needs a ZF guru, Give Allen a call at Direct drive 33760011. Regards Geoff

[Nankas]

[QUOTE=casta66;2735854]Thanks guys, yep it's a D3, i still have the D2 but switching over. Wow I didn't think it would take so may kms to improve. Might have to put the rebuild

I was told my tranny was stuffed and rebuild was required. Mine did have full fluid change plus additive. There is still a slight hydraulic noise in the tc and reverse is a little slow to engage. I have done about 5000 km since change. I agree with discovered 1 2 that the transmission is incredibly resilient. It is worth finding someone who knows how to service the transmission properly.

[scarry]

Hi, Just thought I would share my ZF horror story, It may help some people. I have a D3 2009 with 120.000 klms. It was slipping on take off after a short drive, so I thought I would have it serviced. I paid $1000 for the service. It was done by a Land rover specialist in Brisbane. When I got it back it was still slipping. The new steel pan was fitted but it was leaking bad. I rang them and they told me to take to a Transmission guy. I thought im not even going to deal with these people again and got on the internet and find a ZF guru and get it done properly. On this site the only recommendations where in Melbourne. So after some research I found Direct drive in Seventeen mile rocks. He suggested a rebuild. Quoted $4500.00. I rang two other land rover specialist and they said they would call me back with a price, but never did. So I took it to Direct Drive and he pulled it out and first found one of the bolt from the pan had broke and the person who done the first service glued the head of the bolt in. In the transmission there are apparently 8 plastic bushes and four where completely gone. He replaces them heavy duty nylon bushes which he says will last forever. He over hauled the converter , put a solenoid set in and a accumulator set. Now it drives better than new. Comes with a 2 year warranty. So if anyone in Brisbane needs a ZF guru, Give Allen a call at Direct drive 33760011. Regards Geoff

What suburb was the mob that charged $1000?

[kreecha]

G'day everyone,
I've just bought a 2006, 2.7lt, 223k km D3. I have reports the ZF was replaced in 2015, and has about 60k km on it. I've not seen any receipts. I'd believe some work has been done on it at some stage as I have the BMW pan with drain plug. After having a service in Melbourne last week, I drove to the Sunny Coast, and thought I'd tinker with the auto trans.

I jumped on our friend google, and looked for Auto Trans specialists close to Maroochydore. After speaking with the two of the shops about price, fluid, and services provided, I made the decision to drop the fluid myself. Bear in mind, I work away from where I am staying, and I have no resources other than a shifter so I had to buy everything.

This is what I needed;
Bunnings purchases:
1.5kg Bag of Rags $8.09
9pce Metric Kinchrome Allen Keys $33.89
Supercheap Auto Purchases:
Oil Drain Container 8L SCA $16.97
AutoBarn Purchases:
Oil Suction Gun $29.99
Nulon 4L SYNATF (x2 @ $59.99ea) $119.98
Total
$209.82 (1/4 of quote prices. Details can be PM'd if required)

This was the (my) process:
Yesterday I removed the factory trans protection plate.
Today 0600 - kids wake me up, turn on ABCkids. Go to carpark, check I can undo fill plug - SUCCESS! This was pretty tight, so I used the wheel nut socket from the LR tool kit as an allen key extension. This 'popped' the plug loose. Put oil container under drain hole, and removed plug. Then went back unto house.
0645 - Go to carpark. Replace drain plug (no copper washer, the BMW plug has a moulded sealing ring built into it). Remove Fill plug. Fill tranny until oil leaks out of fill hole. Place plug in fill hole. Then do this:

Start car, and select the following gears;

R, count 1,2,3,4,
N, count as above,
D, count,
Command shift, count,
Select 2nd gear, count,
Select 3rd gear, count,
D, count,
N, count,
R, count,
Put tranny in P.


Remove fill plug and continue filling until oil leaks out of fill hole. (FYI it is weird opening the tranny fill with the engine running!)
Replace plug.
Repeat step 1.1 thru 1.10 above. (confidence check)
Repeat step 2.
Repeat step 3.
Tighten plug.
Turn engine off, and clean up.

0745 - test drive.
0800 - all finished.

A few points:

I did this as the car 'snatches' occasionally when slowing down, and then accelerating again.

Most obvious at less than 15km/h when slowing down for stop lights or turning a corner.
Also obvious between 60-80km/h when following other traffic.


The D3 also 'clunks' into 1st gear occasionally.
I did this as I had two previous experiences with auto's in 4wd's (in particular)

Discovery 1 with 300tdi and auto. I used to change 500ml of auto tranny fluid at every 5,000km engine service.
Nissan R51 Pathfinder with 2.5L and auto. This tranny was also 'sealed' for life. I had the vehicle unto 145k km, and the tranny was never serviced as the leasing vehicle would not allow it; neither would Nissan.


I do not believe Automatic transmissions are a 'sealed for life' item.
Nulon SYNATF is quite cheap at $15/lt, and it states on the label that it is a direct replacement for LG6 (among others)


Further Info:

This drain and fill replaced about 5L of fluid.
The fluid which came out was dark brown, and didn't smell fresh.
I will be doing this again in 2wks. At the moment I have about 33% Nulon, and 66% existing fluid in the tranny. After the second drain and fill, I should have about 50/50 Nulon/existing. I will continue to do the drain and fill every 2nd service as I did on my previous D1.
I will be adding Dr tranny in a fortnight.
I will be doing the resets in a fortnight (ZF 6HP26, 6HP28 Transmission Fluid Service Procedure (http://offroadrover.com/check-zf-6hp26-transmission-fluid-without-thermometer/))


Was it worth it?
Yes. The D3 no longer 'clunks' into 1st gear at all in about of 60km of city driving this morning. The car 'snatching' which occasionally occurs when slowing down, and then accelerating again has been reduced significantly.

Verdict
This was money well spent and it's a pretty simple job. It's also a fairly clean job. I did this in my hotel carpark and it's easy not to make a mess. I look forward to doing it again in 2wks.

Cheers,
Adam

[DiscoJeffster]

G'day everyone,
I've just bought a 2006, 2.7lt, 223k km D3. I have reports the ZF was replaced in 2015, and has about 60k km on it. I've not seen any receipts. I'd believe some work has been done on it at some stage as I have the BMW pan with drain plug. After having a service in Melbourne last week, I drove to the Sunny Coast, and thought I'd tinker with the auto trans.

I jumped on our friend google, and looked for Auto Trans specialists close to Maroochydore. After speaking with the two of the shops about price, fluid, and services provided, I made the decision to drop the fluid myself. Bear in mind, I work away from where I am staying, and I have no resources other than a shifter so I had to buy everything.

This is what I needed;
Bunnings purchases:
1.5kg Bag of Rags $8.09
9pce Metric Kinchrome Allen Keys $33.89
Supercheap Auto Purchases:
Oil Drain Container 8L SCA $16.97
AutoBarn Purchases:
Oil Suction Gun $29.99
Nulon 4L SYNATF (x2 @ $59.99ea) $119.98
Total
$209.82 (1/4 of quote prices. Details can be PM'd if required)

This was the (my) process:
Yesterday I removed the factory trans protection plate.
Today 0600 - kids wake me up, turn on ABCkids. Go to carpark, check I can undo fill plug - SUCCESS! This was pretty tight, so I used the wheel nut socket from the LR tool kit as an allen key extension. This 'popped' the plug loose. Put oil container under drain hole, and removed plug. Then went back unto house.
0645 - Go to carpark. Replace drain plug (no copper washer, the BMW plug has a moulded sealing ring built into it). Remove Fill plug. Fill tranny until oil leaks out of fill hole. Place plug in fill hole. Then do this:

Start car, and select the following gears;

R, count 1,2,3,4,
N, count as above,
D, count,
Command shift, count,
Select 2nd gear, count,
Select 3rd gear, count,
D, count,
N, count,
R, count,
Put tranny in P.


Remove fill plug and continue filling until oil leaks out of fill hole. (FYI it is weird opening the tranny fill with the engine running!)
Replace plug.
Repeat step 1.1 thru 1.10 above. (confidence check)
Repeat step 2.
Repeat step 3.
Tighten plug.
Turn engine off, and clean up.

0745 - test drive.
0800 - all finished.

A few points:

I did this as the car 'snatches' occasionally when slowing down, and then accelerating again.

Most obvious at less than 15km/h when slowing down for stop lights or turning a corner.
Also obvious between 60-80km/h when following other traffic.


The D3 also 'clunks' into 1st gear occasionally.
I did this as I had two previous experiences with auto's in 4wd's (in particular)

Discovery 1 with 300tdi and auto. I used to change 500ml of auto tranny fluid at every 5,000km engine service.
Nissan R51 Pathfinder with 2.5L and auto. This tranny was also 'sealed' for life. I had the vehicle unto 145k km, and the tranny was never serviced as the leasing vehicle would not allow it; neither would Nissan.


I do not believe Automatic transmissions are a 'sealed for life' item.
Nulon SYNATF is quite cheap at $15/lt, and it states on the label that it is a direct replacement for LG6 (among others)


Further Info:

This drain and fill replaced about 5L of fluid.
The fluid which came out was dark brown, and didn't smell fresh.
I will be doing this again in 2wks. At the moment I have about 33% Nulon, and 66% existing fluid in the tranny. After the second drain and fill, I should have about 50/50 Nulon/existing. I will continue to do the drain and fill every 2nd service as I did on my previous D1.
I will be adding Dr tranny in a fortnight.
I will be doing the resets in a fortnight (ZF 6HP26, 6HP28 Transmission Fluid Service Procedure (http://offroadrover.com/check-zf-6hp26-transmission-fluid-without-thermometer/))


Was it worth it?
Yes. The D3 no longer 'clunks' into 1st gear at all in about of 60km of city driving this morning. The car 'snatching' which occasionally occurs when slowing down, and then accelerating again has been reduced significantly.

Verdict
This was money well spent and it's a pretty simple job. It's also a fairly clean job. I did this in my hotel carpark and it's easy not to make a mess. I look forward to doing it again in 2wks.

Cheers,
Adam

I hope you didn’t use the product they call Synatf as that doesn’t seem to comply. This product of theirs supposedly does
Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid Low Viscosity - Nulon Products Australia (https://www.nulon.com.au/products/automatic-transmission-fluids/full-synthetic-multi-vehicle-automatic-transmission-fluid-low-viscosity)

[101RRS]

First you have used the wrong oil - while there is lots of discussion on oil to use on this forum and there are a couple of alternatives but I dont think Nulon 4L SYNATF is one of them. I looked at that oil a while back when Nulon claimed it was a match but I have noticed that claim has been removed. In my view you should only use the genuine LG 6 oil.

Second - you have only replaced about half the oil in the gearbox - certainly better than nothing but you now have different oils in the gearbox so not sure how that is going to work out.

[northiam]

Nulon Australia - NetLube (http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/default.asp)


Lube guide says its suitable alternative

[DiscoJeffster]

Nulon Australia - NetLube (http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/default.asp)


Lube guide says its suitable alternative

LVSYNATF is, SYNATF is not when looking at the compliance of each product in each specs. I believe the line guide is incorrect showing two oils.

[101RRS]

There was an extensive discussion on this forum about 2 years ago on this. Not worth the risk. Repco has discounts on oils every few weeks and with Auto Association discount you can get the proper LG6 for only a few $$$ more than the Nulon stuff.

If buying in bulk it is cheap from ZF.

[DiscoJeffster]

The Motul ATF VI does meet the spec and can be had at a reasonable price.

[Tombie]

Fuchs also does a correct spec fluid,
As does Liqui-Moly

[discorevy]

Fuchs also does a correct spec fluid,
As does Liqui-Moly


I've tested the 4134 in my own car and while values and pressure showed all good after 5000k there was a little flaring between gears, worse when cold , did another flush with lg6 (14 litres ) and after another 5000k pressures and values pretty much the same but no flaring and feeling better
So while these alternatives may work fine for a box while the clutches are well within spec , I suspect they mightn't cut the mustard on older boxes.

On another matter I have had the opportunity to drive 2 other 2005 D3's (march and may) in sport mode over 110 kph,( not towing) both held 5th for the whole time (around 5-6 minutes), so there must have been a tcu update some time that year

[Plane Fixer]

I had a fluid change by my local transmission guy and he put the nulon in. The worst thing for the box. It caused snatching and flaring between shifts. The gear changes were sometimes very harsh and moving along in slow traffic every time I accelerated the transmission would take up with a bang and jerk. Often there was a pause after selecting drive and then a big clunk as it engaged. It got worse and I took it back to the guy expecting a box out repair/overhaul.
The old fluid was flushed out and the genuine was put in, it felt like a new box again with silky smooth shifts. I will now always use genuine ZF fluid.

[kreecha]

I see my post created a flurry of feedback. Good to see. [bigsmile1] Thanks for all the great feedback. No good to hear that some of you have had a bad experience with Nulon.

Feedback from Nulon: SYNATF is fine. :thumbsup:

Feedback from me: Gearbox is getting better with every km. I understand that the computers are adapting to the new fluid. Also, I found Dr Tranny on the shelf at Bursons, Sugar Rd, Maroochydore. I bought the last two tubes, but they are getting more in. I'll probably provide more feedback after I have finished my next fluid change and done a few km's. Hopefully the Nulon works out, but if not I'll be sure to let you know.

Finally, if you're interested; LVSYNATF is (just about) exactly that; SYNATF, but with different viscosity improvers, thus it's thinner. And (from three different sources) Fuchs 4134 may not be available for much longer as it contains an additive which is no longer allowed in Aus. I haven't done any further research on this yet and it may be rubbish news.

Cheers,
Adam

[DiscoJeffster]

And LVSYNATF is listed as meeting the specification whereas nowhere in the SYNATF content does it mention ZF6 or Shell M1375.4 specification, so why not use the right one?
Anyhow, I look forward to long term feedback.

[101RRS]

The wheel goes around and around - as I indicated in a post of mine above, the Nulon product was discussed (along with others) a couple of years back on the old AULRO site - initially Nulon were saying it was suitable but on deeper investigation elsewhere on their site it was found not to be a match - someone used it and it was Ok initially but then issues started.

Save a few dollars on the oil and maybe spend big dollars on a new gearbox. I hope not but why not learn form people who have gone before.

Garry

[Rextheute]

I agree with Garry Ol .
Here's why - I went down the ,service ,new pan / filter tcm update route - using genuine zf parts n fluid .
It lasted 15,000km .
Gearbox failed in the middle of a trip in SA ,towing my caravan .
Limped home - this involved a lot of stopping and resetting tcm !!!!

Gearbox has been replaced by A&B Trans in Dandenong - fantastic service and a great result , box is smooth , responsive and just like new !
No ,it wasn't cheap .
However the car was not as expensive as some others and I assumed it would require a replacement. When I purchased it 18 months ago .
It had been serviced and incorrect spec oil and parts ( ford ) had been used , at a guess to 'save money' .
Yes , it failed !
If it's buggered ,it's buggered and no amount of oil,filters pans ,additives will bring it back . You might get 15km or 15,000km like mine .

[Eric SDV6SE]

I have to disagree, sorry :) My D3 has done 97k without a shudder or any other transmission issues. I've never towed anything so maybe this towing is a qualifier re the timing of the ATF change?

oops, I also disagree - my D4 SDV6SE has done 170,000km with no issues. SLR told me only at 274,000km (odd number i know). Just had the fluid/flush/filter/steel pan upgrade done, A$1,100 drive away. I have heard that the D3's had a lot of issues, one service centre told me that if you havent changed fluid at 150,000 its all over. I finally bit the bullet cause im towing a fair bit more now...

[isaacjack]

Hello everyone, I have just purchased some Lifeguard-6 @ $36.00 per Litre (ex. GST) from Motospecs in Eaglefarm (Brisbane).

Before this, I was quoted approx. $120 / L from REPCO, then $64 / L from Ford and then I went to an automatic gearbox overhaul shop, where they put me onto Motospecs.

I will be replacing the fluid in the next couple of days, hopefully without too much drama.

[101RRS]

I was quoted approx. $120 / L from REPCO,

Thats odd as their recommended retail is $38 and a few cents per litre. I bought 5 litres from Repco in Sep and it was $29.39 inc GST per litre.

Garry

[northiam]

Auto serviced 2010 SDV6 3.0
Trannie bloke suggested replacing heat exchanger as my fliud had trace coolant <10ppm
Any of these fail?
Mine saved in time he says?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/398.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/399.jpg

[kreecha]

Price for LG6 @ MR Automotive yesterday = $26/L

Also, can anyone get me about 100ml of clean new LG6? I want to get a lab analysis done.

[shanegtr]

Price for LG6 @ MR Automotive yesterday = $26/L

Also, can anyone get me about 100ml of clean new LG6? I want to get a lab analysis done.
Can save you the effort if you like:
133597

[rick130]

Interesting sodium and potassium levels for a virgin sample Shane.

[shanegtr]

The potasium levels are fairly consistant with the used samples. Sodium is elevated in the used samples compared to the new sample.
For the record, the sample on the far right was the from the first change I done on the transmission. The second from the right was sampled at the time of failure
133598

[rick130]

It always makes for interesting reading when you have a failure.
Doesn't help the hip pocket nerve though.

Good to know that sodium is there from the start, otherwise you'd be looking for a coolant leak. Elevated sodium may indicate that.

Any conjecture from your trans shop or ZF as to why it failed?

[shanegtr]

II didn't get any offical report, but the original trans shop was going to rebuild it until they stripped it down and they decided that it would be more beneficial to have ZF rebuild and test it. The guys mentioned that the clutch packs where completely stuffed but from the initial noises that I had I would suspect a bearing let go

[oldbloke]

Auto serviced 2010 SDV6 3.0
Trannie bloke suggested replacing heat exchanger as my fliud had trace coolant <10ppm
Any of these fail?
Mine saved in time he says?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/398.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/399.jpg
I have a XR8 FALCON with the same transmission and they have a recall for the radiator & cooling pipes. I have bypassed the radiator on mine because of the horror stories about coolant contamination of the fluid. The 6cyl falcons have the same type of heat exchanger as yours and they fail also, in fact a lot of taxi owners replace them between 60000km - 100000km. pwr sell a heavy duty one for the fords so might make one for you. just make sure your sitting down when you get a price.

[northiam]

Yep

I know all about the falcon heat exchangers, I drive a FG ute for work

Just havent heard of D4 having this issue or 95% of other makes and models...

Every modern car seems to have these brazed plate heatexchangers nowadays!

[DiscoJeffster]

Yep

I know all about the falcon heat exchangers, I drive a FG ute for work

Just havent heard of D4 having this issue or 95% of other makes and models...

Every modern car seems to have these brazed plate heatexchangers nowadays!

At over $300 for the unit I hope they’re not common to fail [emoji53]

[northiam]

At over $300 for the unit I hope they’re not common to fail [emoji53]

I wish!

Dont forget the aussie "super profits margin"

Cost me more like $600 [bawl]

[DiscoJeffster]

I wish!

Dont forget the aussie "super profits margin"

Cost me more like $600 [bawl]

Yeah sorry, that was LR Direct price without shipping and waiting a week. Double that makes sense for AU supplied.

[DiscoMick]

Was your filter changed regularly in the past? They tend to be forgotten until they clog up.

[Discoagogo]

Since my D3 has been getting the shudders I thought I'd post some of my research on a new thread rather than generating heaps of posts on the FAQ. Happy to be corrected on any points that other people know of, maybe we'll all learn something. So to kick it off....

Transmission is a ZF 6HP26 unit. Is currently fitted to BMWs, Ford Falcons and Territories, Audis and Jaguars to name a few

The transmission has been around in one form or another since 2001 when it was introduced on a 7 series

ZF have designated the transmission as "sealed for life" but a more accurate description of this strategy would be "sealed until the warranty period is over"

The Land Rover variant uses a plastic sump which has an inbuilt filter which is a throwaway with the sump at service time. The filter also means that the engine has to be lifted from one mount to fit the new sump. ZF make a steel sump part number 1068 103 820 01 Kit Sump. an alloy sump may also be available ex Ford. These variants do not have the filter inbuilt and can be fitted / removed without lifting the engine.

Fluid for these transmissions is ZF LifguardFluid6 part number S671 090 253 for a 20 litre drum. Dealers charge $78 a litre, other repairers less but it's still expensive.
Other alternatives may be Motospecs Part # 749626, Ford RI-28, Shell ATF M 1375.4, Mercon SP XT-6-QSP Ford have a RRP of $48 a litre for their oil.


The design of the 6hp26 is different in that it does not have bands but rather clutch packs and the transmission is completely electronically controlled. The torque converter clutch is modulated in that it can be engaging and releasing at a rapid rate to allow a transition between fully locked up and disengaged. The torque converter clutch can lock up in all gears

Due to these transmissions having no service schedule they develop a "shudder" that is similar to driving over a ripple strip embedded in the white line at the edge of a road. This is caused by the degredation of the oil and causes wear to the torque converter clutch and potentially damages the rest of the transmission through contamination and overheating.

It would seem that 50,000KM would be a good time to change the transmission fluid to delay the fault above happening.

Sport mode reduces the shudder substantially, possibly because the transmission is more likely to kick down a gear in response to increased load rather than modulating the torque converter to allow some slip.

There are reports from the UK of coolant contamination from the transmission cooler in the radiator becoming porous. It may be worthwhile to consider testing old fluid for glycol as a transmission flush will not help for long.

It's NOT a "Land Rover Problem".... Googling the transmission model number brings up lots of tales of woe from owners of these transmissions that have failed due to lack of oil changes.

When off road in steep country it is preferable to lock the vehicle in a suitable gear to reduce heat load on the transmission rather than leaving it in drive.

A new transmission will cost you in the vicinity of $7000 so regular oil changes make sense.

Thats all I can think of for now, any other thoughts welcome.
RMP, maybe when we have a complete list we could revise and put in the FAQ?

Regards,
Tote

My disco 3 has a slight tranny leak ( finally getting fixed shortly) when it gets low on Zf lifeguard it gets a shudder on change and a slight hunting in the taco. As you cannt really top
It up yourself I suggest going to a tranny specialist and get you fluid level checked and topped up

[Biggogs69]

Has anyone had the steel pan and flush done by Southerns LR dealer in Perth, just wondering if they are any good.

I tend to stay away from the dealers but don't know of any other garages in Perth SOR.

Thanks...

[Hammer H]

Automatic Transmissions R Us did mine in Balcatta

No problems, Land rover out source the work to them

[Biggogs69]

Automatic Transmissions R Us did mine in Balcatta

No problems, Land rover out source the work to them

Cheers for the heads up Hammer H.

I gave them a ring and it sounded like they have done a few, $1250 with genuine oil.

I will get it booked in next month, mines is on 90k

[PerthDisco]

Confirmed they are the go to place in Perth for many years. That price is for your first visit with steel pan replacement. My second visit was $900ish.

[specwarop]

Whats it cost if you have the parts already?
I was going to do the conversion myself, but not sure if I can be bothered haha, and that chassis bar in the way, not sure what to do there...

[LRD414]

. As you cannt really top
It up yourself
Drain and/or refill is a simple diy task. There’s a number of good threads with instructions, particularly on Disco3.

Scott

[specwarop]

Any chance you have some links handy?
I couldn't find anything really suitable, without having to wade through a thousand forum posts.

[DiscoJeffster]

Dropped 5L out of mine today for its annual drain and refill to keep the box healthy. Used my alternative fluid choice of Motul ATF VI that I’ve been running now for three seasons. Did on a WA early morning - my only chance at getting the gearbox temp low enough to set the correct fluid level. Reset adaptations. The box is back to silky smooth again. Of recent I’d been finding the box was clunking when down-changing into first. Now it’s like new again. I think when I last did it I didn’t get the temp spot on and maybe the level wasn’t just right. Not sure, but this time it’s like new again. [emoji106] 243,000km rocking on.

[101RRS]

Did on a WA early morning - my only chance at getting the gearbox temp low enough to set the correct fluid level.

The temp thing has me a bit confused. In the topix handbook on a basic replacement, fluid level check the temps are different.

At the start of the instructions it has a caution:
"CAUTION: The gearbox fluid level must only be checked when the temperature of the fluid is between 30 degrees and 50 degrees. The fluid level obtained will be incorrect if the reading is outside this temperature range."

Then in the instructions for getting ready for the fluid check it has this caution:
"CAUTION: Make sure the transmission fluid temperature is below 30 degrees before starting the fluid level check."

Then in the following fluid replacement section (when you move it through the gears) it has this caution:
"CAUTION: The gearbox fluid level must only be checked when the temperature of the fluid is between 30 degrees and 50 degrees. The fluid level obtained will be incorrect if the reading is outside this temperature range."

So this is all a bit confusing.

My take is that before you start the gearbox and oil must be below 30 degrees (I assume as you go through the process with engine running etc the fluid can get over 50 degrees). But when you do the actual fluid level check after changing the oil - it has to be above 30 and below 50.

Is my take on this correct and it is only before you start that the oil has to be below 30?

Cheers

Garry

[DiscoJeffster]

The temp thing has me a bit confused. In the topix handbook on a basic replacement, fluid level check the temps are different.

At the start of the instructions it has a caution:
"CAUTION: The gearbox fluid level must only be checked when the temperature of the fluid is between 30 degrees and 50 degrees. The fluid level obtained will be incorrect if the reading is outside this temperature range."

Then in the instructions for getting ready for the fluid check it has this caution:
"CAUTION: Make sure the transmission fluid temperature is below 30 degrees before starting the fluid level check."

Then in the following fluid replacement section (when you move it through the gears) it has this caution:
"CAUTION: The gearbox fluid level must only be checked when the temperature of the fluid is between 30 degrees and 50 degrees. The fluid level obtained will be incorrect if the reading is outside this temperature range."

So this is all a bit confusing.

My take is that before you start the gearbox and oil must be below 30 degrees (I assume as you go through the process with engine running etc the fluid can get over 50 degrees). But when you do the actual fluid level check after changing the oil - it has to be above 30 and below 50.

Is my take on this correct and it is only before you start that the oil has to be below 30?

Cheers

Garry

Spot on. When you’re filling it you need to have the engine running which in itself bumps up the temp. If you start too high you’ll have little chance to get it within temp.
I actually remember it (I think in the ZF instructions) as being 34 degrees as the perfect temp to set the level. LR I think just say 30-50 in their instructions I guess to help the workshops get through the work rather than aiming for perfect.

[specwarop]

So it is a must to have a IIDTOOL or similar, in order to do the fluid change?
To set the level and also reset the ECU?

[DiscoJeffster]

So it is a must to have a IIDTOOL or similar, in order to do the fluid change?
To set the level and also reset the ECU?

You’ll need a tool that can read gearbox temp and reset the adaptations. You could ignore the adaptations reset and presume the box temp is within 30-50 degrees and do it without, but you’d be flying a bit blind and might not get the best result.

[specwarop]

I am a poor Discovery owner, is there anything cheaper thatll do both, other than the IIDTOOL

[DiscoJeffster]

I am a poor Discovery owner, is there anything cheaper thatll do both, other than the IIDTOOL

Join the club!!!! I believe the Nanacom can however it’s not much cheaper, if at all. I looked at it such that the IID was the cost of one service at a dealer. I’ve saved so much by having it and being able to DIY it’s paid for itself in no time.

[specwarop]

I am very DIY, would prefer to do all the work myself where possible.
Fluid change aside, How many errors/things has it flagged for you?

[DiscoJeffster]

I am very DIY, would prefer to do all the work myself where possible.
Fluid change aside, How many errors/things has it flagged for you?

It made my life a lot easier when I was up north WA and got an air leak. I was able to easily reset the Restricted Performance errors. Aside from that it’s been useful for all the servicing tasks and recently to deflate the suspension to replace the struts and perform a ride height realignment. I also use it for its Reid’s height function to set an increased ride height when off the beaten track, similar to what LLAMS does.

[101RRS]

The gearbox will slowly reset itself (learn) but may take some time and may not run well. So a tool is not really needed and a IR temp gauge can read the temp - so in the long run no special tools needed - just sorted quicker with the gear.

[Style_Z]

I bought an aftermarket drain plug kit, it works but not happy with it, so i’m gonna weld a 1/2” nut onto the outside of the pan next time it comes off and then just use the 1/2” bolt with a washer to plug her off...

[101RRS]

Style - not quite following this as per the sump on a 6 speed.

Why do you need an aftermarket drain plug kit as the sump has a drain in it and the side of the gearbox has a filler plug.

Why do you need to weld stuff to it - plastic if original - cast aluminium alloy if a metal sump.

Sorry not understanding [bigsad].

Garry

[Spearo71]

Sorry for the rant but i suggest thinking about it this way - would BMW, Jaguar, Ford, Aston Martin, Hyundai, Rolls Royce, Mercedes, Maserati, Kia, Bentley, VW, Audi and Landrover all be using or have used a variation of this box if it was a fragile, high maintenance POS? finicky, perhaps. Tough as nails if you treat it properly, IMO, my oath my friends [bigsmile1]..

PS, draining the ATF fluid and a top up can be done with minimal tools, i think a 10mm socket and 2 allen keys, size dependant on the sump you have on, a cheap plastic oil pan and a tom thumb pump and a funnel (O and a towel that's fallen out of favour with SWMBO). Its a 4 stubby job if you drink quickly and can be done on a concrete slab with the suspension set at off road height.

STM TOM THUMB UTILITY PUMP (https://www.autobarn.com.au/stm-1-litre-tomb-thumb-oil-pump-ca586)

I use Fuchs 4134, it's supposedly the correct one for D4 and is used by heavier Mercedes applications, have found absolutely no reason to disagree. Burson's sell it.

This is just what I do but it works. Anyone wanting to take my 165k D4 SDV6 for test drive around the block to validate my theory is welcome within reason.


Hi Discovered 1 2, How long have you been using the Fuchs 4134 Trans oil and have do you use Dr Tranny as well?

[Discovered 1 2]

Used it for 60 odd thousand ks in D3 and around the same in the D4 so far.. haven’t used Dr Tranny.

[Tombie]

Style - not quite following this as per the sump on a 6 speed.

Why do you need an aftermarket drain plug kit as the sump has a drain in it and the side of the gearbox has a filler plug.

Why do you need to weld stuff to it - plastic if original - cast aluminium alloy if a metal sump.

Sorry not understanding [bigsad].

Garry

Garry. There were 2 replacement metal sumps.
One with and one without a drain plug...

[justinc]

Had the dreaded E clutch bushing failure with a d4 3.0 last week. 200k old serviced at 150k and now faulting often. Looking at the 3.0 tt engine the trans looks no different to remove than the 2.7. In fact I am going to say easier as the starter is quicker to remove and the exhaust engine pipes are easy to access.

Jc

[101RRS]

Garry. There were 2 replacement metal sumps.
One with and one without a drain plug...

If you get one without the drain plug then you got the wrong one.

When I first looked at getting mine, I looked on ebay and they did not have the drain plug so I checked with ZF in Sydney - according to ZF the LR one has the drain plug and the other one is for some other car that uses a sucker to get the oil out. ZF was much cheaper than Ebay so I got mine from them.

Cheers

Garry

[Tombie]

All good my end Garry...

I got a dealer fitted metal sump, with the drain plug [emoji41]

[specwarop]

Hey Guys,

Does anyone have a comprehensive guide to do the metal pan swap?
I cant seem to find anything really that suitable. I need photos haha

Regards

[DiscoJeffster]

Hey Guys,

Does anyone have a comprehensive guide to do the metal pan swap?
I cant seem to find anything really that suitable. I need photos haha

Regards

It’s around.
Essentially unbolt old pan. Lower plastic pan and manoeuvre. Using a hacksaw, cut off the filter spout so you can slide the plastic pan out without lowering the cross member. Remove the spout and ensure the o-ring on end of spout comes out too. Install new filter (now separate from the pan, install pan, install new bolts and gasket. Fill box as per usual.

That’s it in a Cliff notes edition.

[specwarop]

You make it sound so easy haha.

With the kit I got 2 gaskets, a green and a black (thicker). Which is better?
Also any tips on applying the gasket goo?

Also, is it that hard removing the cross member, when I was under there it looked like it make it all a lot easier with access ...

[DiscoJeffster]

You make it sound so easy haha.

With the kit I got 2 gaskets, a green and a black (thicker). Which is better?
Also any tips on applying the gasket goo?

Also, is it that hard removing the cross member, when I was under there it looked like it make it all a lot easier with access ...

I bought my kit with some special gasket that was preferred as it didn’t leak - yes it was thicker and foam style so yes, I’d use the black one. I didn’t apply any gasket goo that I remember as there was a gasket. I don’t recall a need for both.
Can’t comment on the cross member other than to say there must be a reason people avoid its removal. It’s not too hard without, but you might find two of the torx bolts difficult to access without a stubby right angle torx tool. I have one of those hex fitting things with a short right angle end, with some torx fittings for that. Yes it would be easier without the cross member in the way unquestionably. You’ll be able to tell us why you don’t remove it, when you try lol.

[101RRS]

Also some people recommend replacing the Motronics Sleeve ???? - what is this, what does it do and do you have to replace it?

Garry

[Disco-tastic]

All good my end Garry...

I got a dealer fitted metal sump, with the drain plug [emoji41]I asked my auto trans much about why I'd didn't have the drain plug and he said something along the lines of 'you have to take the sump off to change the filter anyway'.

I suppose it does make it easier to drain the oil without making a mess...

[DiscoJeffster]

I asked my auto trans much about why I'd didn't have the drain plug and he said something along the lines of 'you have to take the sump off to change the filter anyway'.

I suppose it does make it easier to drain the oil without making a mess...

Filter changes for me are a lot less frequent than oil so I’d take issue with that.
As for the sleeve, yes they leak but not that often

[101RRS]

I asked my auto trans much about why I'd didn't have the drain plug and he said something along the lines of 'you have to take the sump off to change the filter anyway'.

In other words he fitted the wrong one and doesn't want to admit it [bigsmile1]

[Disco-tastic]

In other words he fitted the wrong one and doesn't want to admit it [bigsmile1]Haha maybe.

To be honest I'll be changing the filter with the oil each time, and he'll probably be doing it so its no real biggy

[justinc]

Don't bother with the hacksaw... just lever the sump horizontally across to the passenger side and there will be a satisfying snap. ..😎

[specwarop]

Doing the install today, and well this wasnt expected...
Jacked the car up on the drivers side, undid the filler plug, and 0.5L or more of fluid came out....