Disco 3/4 Automatic Transmission FAQ - 6 Speed

[101RRS]

Had you followed the instructions - that is correct temps, engine running and shifting through the gears. It is not just a matter of dumping and filling.

[specwarop]

Less than maybe 10 posts ago I asked for instructions and some basics were provided.
Nowhere did anyone say when removing the old pan and fluid, does the oil need to be at a certain temperature.

[DiscoJeffster]

Less than maybe 10 posts ago I asked for instructions and some basics were provided.
Nowhere did anyone say when removing the old pan and fluid, does the oil need to be at a certain temperature.

Ok. So my Cliff notes did say to fill, but I guess I presumed you’d research how to fill? Perfect fill temp is 34deg oil temp. To get that you’ll need an IiD tool to read the gearbox oil temp. Some have used an infrared probe on the pan instead. When oil is slowly leaking out of the filler hole at the right temp you’ve got the level correct. The Land Rover manual says 30-50 degrees I believe.

[specwarop]

Ah sorry bit of miscommunication perhaps. I am talking about when I started draining the gearbox before removing the plastic pan.
Undid the filler plug so I knew I wouldnt be stuck later, and almost got a litre of oil on my face.

When I go to fill it later, I am aware of the temperature stuff, bought a IIDTool especially for this.

[101RRS]

If the engine is not running - you will always get fluid coming out the filler when it is at the correct level - seems quite normal to me. Clearly if you are just pulling fluid out none of the processes that you need to follow when putting the fluid in or checking fluid level does not apply. A bit like engine oil - the oil level on the dip stick of a cold engine is always higher than that of a running engine where oil is circulating around the engine - same as the gearbox.

If you had the box at the right temp, engine running, through the gears etc and a lot of fluid came out then yes I would be concerned.

But from what you describe, seems normal to me.

Garry

[specwarop]

Well the difficulty level on this pan replacement job is quite a bit higher than expected
Getting to some of the bolts is nigh impossible, especially the ones for the heat shield bracket - there is a bloody propshaft on one side and you cant get the bolts back in!

[justinc]

Well the difficulty level on this pan replacement job is quite a bit higher than expected
Getting to some of the bolts is nigh impossible, especially the ones for the heat shield bracket - there is a bloody propshaft on one side and you cant get the bolts back in!

The rearmost heatshield bracket bolt csn be cut down to fit. I agree it is a silly idea. There is more time doing the petrol ones because of this. Also if you have a v6 4.0 one the rear trans mount alloy bracket interferes with the rear lip of the metal pan... a small amount of material needs to be ground away from the pan lip to clear it.

Jc

[specwarop]

Yeh I ended up loosening the transmission eye mount, putting the pan on, then tightening the mount up again. Seemed to work well.

[specwarop]

Okay so I ran out of time yesterday before I could refill the gearbox, looking to do it this evening.
How did you guys go about jacking it up but keeping it on level ground?
I only have a jack and 2 stands which means either jacking the front only, or one side....

Can you guys fit underneath when the suspension is raised to extended?
How can you make it stay at that height?

Regards

[specwarop]

Well finally completed the pan change and fluid change. Bit harder than expected but all good now.

It only took about 5L in, but about 6L came out, so I'm going to re-do the fluid check this weekend... Pretty sure I did everything right, but can't hurt having another look...
I know this isn't a full fluid change, but the oil wasn't that bad when it came out so should suffice for a while.

[specwarop]

Also, what is the typical temperature range the gearboxes should run at?

[shanegtr]

Also, what is the typical temperature range the gearboxes should run at?

operating temp should be around 100deg

[AJC]

Hi,
My 2011 D4 2.7 TDV6 is at 221,000kms and has the shudders.
Its had the pan mod and oil service (albeit late at 165000). At about 180 - 190K it got the shudders. Dr Tanny was added, which improved things a bit for a while, however its now come back and I'm expecting it needs the rebuild.

A Canberra independent LR shop quoted me $8800, and told me who they use a reputable Canberra based transmission shop.
Another Canberra independent LR shop sent me direct to the same transmission shop.

I've spoken to the trans shop and was indicated $6800 to overhaul including replace + upgrade valves, replace friction material + bushes, replace torque converter.
They re-use the existing machatronics computer. Add labour and fluids, so I guess its around $7,500.
The Canberra shop made a point about the "upgrades" they are adding.

I've spoken to a shop in Melbourne that I saw on the Forum. They indicated they are a ZF agent and quoted me $6400 for a re-manufactured gearbox from ZF (which includes a new mechatronics computer) and warranty. Alternatively, they said they can do an in-house rebuild for $4800 and re-use my machatronics computer.

Both the Canberra shop and the Melbourne shop indicate that the machatronics computers can fail, and a new one is not cheap (approx $4k) from ZF.

That suggests the $6400 re-manufactured gearbox from ZF agent in Melbourne is the best value, least long term risk.

Question 1. Does anyone know of a similar ZF agent in Sydney?

Question 2. Does anyone know anything about the occurrence of failed mechatronics units and cost of replacement? If its low risk, the $4800 in Melbourne looks good.

Question 3. Any views on "up-graded" trasnmissions as opposed to "re-manufactured" or "re-built"? I need to ask the Melbouirne agent if either the ZF re-manufactured or their re-built transmissions include "upgrades" to improve the durability going forward.

Cheers,
Al

[Ralasa]

Mine had bad shutters, worse when towing , I did a oil change and 2 tubes Dr tranny, no shutter now , even with the 3 ton boat and trailer, might be worth a shot

[Maharba]

I know this has been mentioned before but here goes.
My D3s had the shudders.
My mechanic did the double flush.
Not fixed.
Put in Dr Tranny.
It's like a brand new gearbox.
No shudders.
No hesitation.

Thanks all for the tips.

[101RRS]

But Dr Tranny is just a temporary fix (or can be used as a preventative). So plan on a new TC in the future - when who knows.

[Maharba]

But Dr Tranny is just a temporary fix (or can be used as a preventative). So plan on a new TC in the future - when who knows.How long can I expect from it.

[101RRS]

How long can I expect from it.

How long is a piece of string. Some people report the issue comes back, some never report the issue again. Depends on the amount of damage already done.

[101RRS]

In the new few weeks I am going to replace the gearbox sump etc - seems pretty well straight forward.

Everything I have read says to also replace the mechatronic sleeve as well. So I have the ford version sitting with the new parts for the gearbox.

So a couple of questions just to clarify things as the Topix workshop manual is light on detail.

1. Mine is not leaking and as I understand things does not need to be touched when doing the sump. So do I really need to replace it or just keep the new one for the future if mine does start to leak?

2. Now lets just assume for the moment that I do not replace it and in the future the electric cable does start to leak at the mechatronic sleeve. Now I have read that to replace the sleeve the sump has to be dropped but I am not sure why. The sleeve basically seals the cable against the gearbox housing at the rear (on one side). So if twisted out the cable should be unplugged from inside the box and pulled out through the hole. I would have thought fitting would be the reverse. So what am I missing here - why does the sump have to be dropped to change the mechatronic sleeve.

Also - any tricks for new players on this.

Thanks

Garry

[101RRS]

So I guess everyone knows at much about the Mechatrinic sleeve as I do [bigsad]

[Grappler]

There is a locking tab that retains the sleeve, that can only be accessed from inside the case

This link will show
http://www.zftranspart.com/images/custom/mecha.pdf

[101RRS]

Thanks for that - great stuff - certainly explains why the sump has to come off.

Now I have to decide whether to change my seal or leave things as they are. It is not leaking and in theory should at least stay that way unless the wiring and seal are tinkered with - yes I know they have a reputation for leaking. Also in my experience if you replace an old serviceable part with a new one for the sake of it Mr Murphy often comes along and the new bit plays up.

As the steel sump can be "relatively" easily removed, I an leaning to not changing the sleeve and keeping the new one in the spares box.

Cheers

Garry

[Tombie]

That’s just plain stupid Garry [emoji12]
Fit new one. You have it. Fit it.

Having serviced and refilled with expensive fluid why would you risk losing a heap to replace the mecha sleeve.

[101RRS]

If it was a wear ltem like a clutch then yes I would but in the past I have found when you put in new seals there is a high chance they will leak. Its not leaking now, is not going to be disturbed so I think I will take the risk but if there is any evidence of a weep now then it will be changed.

Cheers

Garry

[shanegtr]

I'll sit in your corner garry - I'd do the same thing if it was me for pratically the same reasons as you state

[Tombie]

Heat affected seal that will be disturbed when you drop the pan.. yeah.. I’d leave it there and shove $280 worth of fluid in there...

Mine was done last drop and no problem and will be done again this time.

[DiscoJeffster]

Not sure why it’s disturbed when you change the pan? I didn’t go anywhere near it and mine isn’t leaking after the pan change. I too am with Gary. I’d leave it alone. It’s not like it’s going to spring a high pressure leak when it does go.

[Tombie]

Each to their own.

The seal has been subjected to time and heat... I’m a firm believer in preventative rather than reactive maintenance.

[specwarop]

If it hasn't leaked with the amount of kms currently on your car, the probability that the new one will work is less than your current one. Simples.

[specwarop]

Each to their own.

The seal has been subjected to time and heat... I’m a firm believer in preventative rather than reactive maintenance.

Did you change out your cylinder sleeves? They are prone to wear and heat also....Preventive maintenance.

[Tombie]

Did you change out your cylinder sleeves? They are prone to wear and heat also....Preventive maintenance.

Righto... back to the peanut gallery you go.

[101RRS]

Now now now [wink11]- Tombie has made a very valid point which is in line with the prevailing opinion on other forums. I was looking for other ideas that I may have missed so that I can make my mind up - it is a risk assessment process - and as I said my own history with putting in new seals has not been great as something usually starts leaking for various reasons and not always my own fault.

Tombie reinforced the reasons I had heard elsewhere and there was not something I had missed, so my risk assessment is that I will leave it - if it does leak it is a drip not a gush and so will only loose an hour or so taking the pan off and another putting it all back. I will be doing regular basic fluid changes anyway so I will leave the change of the sleeve to then so no fluid will actually be lost.

Thanks to everyone for their input - I appreciate the discussion from all involved.

Cheer

[Towcar]

Hi team,

MY10 3,0 TD V6 RRS 120xxxkms

Has anyone experienced a bit of a clunk after take off from standstill just before changing into second gear? It's like the front TC engaging or something like that, it's more noticeable in low range actually now that I think of it.
I did have fluid changed about 20xxxkms ago at Pringles trans in North Melbourne, and it was a smooth shifter.
I've since had to change my battery or reset it anyway as the terminals were not tight on the posts.


Any insight you may have, i appreciate
Thanks
Jeremy

[Hungo]

This thread is a long one....
What’s the latest going $ rate for doing gearbox pan change and new oil(using genuine ZF oil)?
And any good recommendations in Newcastle area?
Don’t think mine has had it done and now with 140kms on it.

[andeck]

Hi all, I was looking at the ZF website and came across a table listing different vehicle brand Part numbers for the lifeguard 6. One was HyunDIE, so I thought I'll look at the cheapest car for a possible cheap alternative.

138549


I put the number into the search bar and it brought up a Penrite page with the number. Opening that, it looks like Penrite now has a direct replacement for Lifeguard 6 and 8. Don't know if anyone has seen yet, it says it new.

ATF BMV (Full Syn) | Penrite Oil (https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/atf-bmv-full-syn)

don't know a price yet, looks like autobahn is one of their stockists. Hope this will turn out to be a money saver.

[Eevo]

Penrite ATF BMV - 205L (http://www.thefarmstore.com.au/animal-farming-equipment-brands/brands-m-r/penrite/penrite-atf-bmv-205l)


205l for only $1,953.24

[101RRS]

That is just Penrite saying it cross references, it is not ZF saying that it is a cross reference to LG6 and it is not Hyundai saying it is a cross reference. Use at your peril.

[Tombie]

I’m sticking with LG6.
Seems Penrite believe they have it again..
https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/ATF%20BMV.pdf

[rick130]

I’m sticking with LG6.
Seems Penrite believe they have it again..
https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/ATF%20BMV.pdfOr Lubrizol have reverse engineered LG6 and believe they have it (again) [emoji848]

Note it says "for out of warranty servicing" ie. not licensed.

[Dagilmo]

Hi All,

I'm about to do a full service: New fluid (LG6), new filter, new mechatronic sleeve (mine is leaking) and two tubes of Dr Tranny. Mine has 260K on the clock has had the pan replaced by previous owner and the filler plug looks like it has enough use to suggest more than one change of fluid.

I'm going to drop the pan replace the filter and sleeve and re-fill. Drive for two weeks and drop and refill. Based on having 20 lts will probably do another drop and fill when I do my next service in Nov.

It generally drives well (well enough, that on three occasions, I've had tranny guys (Transmissions R Us and Global Transmissions) drive it they say there's nothing wrong with it), gear changes are good and no hesitation to select a gear. However, occasionally it gets a bit of shudder in 3rd when laboring from low speed. Having said that, driving around over the past few days picking up the bit and pieces for the service, my hypochondriasis has kicked in and it's been shuddering and clunking all the time [smilebigeye].

Some parts information for people in Perth:

Driveline Autos Parts (ZF agents) in Osborne Park:



20ltrs of LG6 for $467.00 (inc)
2 x tube of Dr Tranny for $20.00 ea.
Ford sump gasket- an aluminum one with rubber vulcanized to the edge, apparently the best and won't leak.
Grumpy but knowledgeable advice from a Richmond supporter. Can't imagine what he was like before they won the premiership last year.....


So some questions:



I'm planning to put the Dr Tranny Shudder Fixx in after the second refill. If my box is not too bad, does adding the shudder fixx risk doing any damage? Meaning if it doesn't need it, can it damage it?
Is driving for 2 weeks enough, not long enough or could I do it sooner? (I understand it will depend on how may kms I do but generall everyday driving around town)
The torx bolts at the front and the rear of the pan look terrible to remove and then to torque back up. (I remember reading some posts about them but can't find it) Any advice?
Is it worthwhile getting a sample of the old oil analyzed? Will it tell me the state of the box?
I'm purchasing a IID Tool so I can get the box temp right for fluid level adjustment (also to have for all the other cool stuff like fault codes ETC......all I want for xmas is a remap...you have to sing that last bit[biggrin]). I'm planning to reset transmission adaptations. Is this the right thing to do?


Feel free to add any other thoughts?

Thanks in advance:

David.

[shanegtr]

So some questions:



I'm planning to put the Dr Tranny Shudder Fixx in after the second refill. If my box is not too bad, does adding the shudder fixx risk doing any damage? Meaning if it doesn't need it, can it damage it?
Is driving for 2 weeks enough, not long enough or could I do it sooner? (I understand it will depend on how may kms I do but generall everyday driving around town)
The torx bolts at the front and the rear of the pan look terrible to remove and then to torque back up. (I remember reading some posts about them but can't find it) Any advice?
Is it worthwhile getting a sample of the old oil analyzed? Will it tell me the state of the box?
I'm purchasing a IID Tool so I can get the box temp right for fluid level adjustment (also to have for all the other cool stuff like fault codes ETC......all I want for xmas is a remap...you have to sing that last bit[biggrin]). I'm planning to reset transmission adaptations. Is this the right thing to do?


Feel free to add any other thoughts?

Thanks in advance:

David.
1. No idea what Dr.Tranny does in the box, but if you dont have any issues with it then why put it in? Everyone is always banging on about only using LG6 because no one else makes an approved oil for the 6HP26 - adding Dr.tranny IMHO you've just converted the LG6 to a non approved oil by the addition of whatever additives are in the Dr.Tranny.
2. I reckon as little as 100km would be enough to fully mix the old fluid with the new
3. Last time I did mine those front bolts where a pain - If I had a one piece torx 1/4" drive socket then it would have been easier rather that the one I had that kept falling apart
4. I personally sample my trans oil at regular intervals. You can get an idea of whats going on within the box, and get a good idea on the state of the oil as well. Im actually waiting on a sample from a few days ago so happy to show what sort of info you'll see if you want
5. You could get the trans close enough from the pan with an IR temp gun. But the IID tool has so much more uses so I think its a worthwhile purchase

[Dagilmo]

1. No idea what Dr.Tranny does in the box, but if you dont have any issues with it then why put it in? Everyone is always banging on about only using LG6 because no one else makes an approved oil for the 6HP26 - adding Dr.tranny IMHO you've just converted the LG6 to a non approved oil by the addition of whatever additives are in the Dr.Tranny.
2. I reckon as little as 100km would be enough to fully mix the old fluid with the new
3. Last time I did mine those front bolts where a pain - If I had a one piece torx 1/4" drive socket then it would have been easier rather that the one I had that kept falling apart
4. I personally sample my trans oil at regular intervals. You can get an idea of whats going on within the box, and get a good idea on the state of the oil as well. Im actually waiting on a sample from a few days ago so happy to show what sort of info you'll see if you want
5. You could get the trans close enough from the pan with an IR temp gun. But the IID tool has so much more uses so I think its a worthwhile purchase

Thanks Shane.



I know what you mean, I'm hopping around, sans an arm and a leg, having just bought 20 ltrs of liquid rocking horse **** and I'm going to put other stuff in it. Having said that, it does have a shudder of some description and anecdotal evidence is very favorable towards the DR Tranny.
Great, thanks. I didn't think it would need too much driving.
So, I've got a torx with a 1/4" drive. I'll give it a trial run over this weekend before doing it the following weekend.
I've seen some of the samples you've posted previously. But would be good to have a look and details about how to get it done. Also, does it give you within spec/out of spec information or is it just raw data?
Did think of using IR gun (have them at work) but it's a good justification to get the IID Tool. "Hey Honey, I can do the transmission service for about the same (I know if you add it all up it'll be more but that's just semantics in these sorts of conversations) as the shop and then have the tools to do it much cheaper in the future"

[shanegtr]

T


I've seen some of the samples you've posted previously. But would be good to have a look and details about how to get it done. Also, does it give you within spec/out of spec information or is it just raw data


Heres my latest auto sample results, newest on the left working to oldest on the right. The first one is from the first change I did a little while after I brought stand the second in from the right was taken when the trans failed. I've added an inline filter into the cooler return line to help keep the contamination levels under control a little. My sample will flag up if levels are excessively high as you can see with the Al, Fe, Sn and Cu levels in the first couple of samples. The viscosity is flagged as ALS has no idea what the viscosity is of the oil they are testing (I've had a new sample tested and its still spot on). If the oil cleanliness levels (the ISO 4406 code at the bottom) increase ALS will flag them - you can see in my test from the 31 Oct 17 that it was flagged as Debris, most likely from me accidentally dropping some dirt into the sample at some point. Mostly its raw data and to be honest I dont really read into the diagnosis from ALS too much as its generic text to fit in with certain levels. You can get sample kits from ALS or westrac etc.. I buy mine in boxes of 10 from ALS - mainly because we deal with them at work. I get the back end of my disco up on ramps so no oil comes out of the trans sump when I undo the fill plug and suck the sample out with a vacuum pump (screws straight onto my sample bottles) and if you want reasonable accurate ISO cleanliness results you need to give the sample bottle and tubing a flush with the sampled oil and tip it out
140320

[Dagilmo]

Heres my latest auto sample results, newest on the left working to oldest on the right. The first one is from the first change I did a little while after I brought stand the second in from the right was taken when the trans failed. I've added an inline filter into the cooler return line to help keep the contamination levels under control a little. My sample will flag up if levels are excessively high as you can see with the Al, Fe, Sn and Cu levels in the first couple of samples. The viscosity is flagged as ALS has no idea what the viscosity is of the oil they are testing (I've had a new sample tested and its still spot on). If the oil cleanliness levels (the ISO 4406 code at the bottom) increase ALS will flag them - you can see in my test from the 31 Oct 17 that it was flagged as Debris, most likely from me accidentally dropping some dirt into the sample at some point. Mostly its raw data and to be honest I dont really read into the diagnosis from ALS too much as its generic text to fit in with certain levels. You can get sample kits from ALS or westrac etc.. I buy mine in boxes of 10 from ALS - mainly because we deal with them at work. I get the back end of my disco up on ramps so no oil comes out of the trans sump when I undo the fill plug and suck the sample out with a vacuum pump (screws straight onto my sample bottles) and if you want reasonable accurate ISO cleanliness results you need to give the sample bottle and tubing a flush with the sampled oil and tip it out


Thanks Shane.

Interesting to see the 'metal' levels high (Rio might be upset to see some Fe not going to China) when it failed and now steadily increasing with time. Demonstrates why changing the fluid is important. My wife works for a heavy mobile plant maintenance company (competition to the one mentioned above), so I'll see if they can get a sample done for me. Comparing mine to yours when it failed might give an indication of its health.

[shanegtr]

Just in regards to the failed sample - an important point to note is the PQ index - thats a total count of all the ferrous material in the sample. The elemental anaylsis can only use particles upto around 10micron in size, so the jump in PQ with minimal change to the Fe levels in the elemental analysis is a good indication of larger wear particles and IMHO its not a good thing to see at all. You kinda need to look a the data and correlate the elemenatal levels vs the PQ to gauge particle size - which is easier if you have historical data

[Rosco55]

I keep waiting for transmission to play up. My 2010 Discovery 4 has now 208,000Km, of which 80,000 would be towing a 2.5 tonne caravan and no hint of a problem. Would I have a different transmission.

[Rockylizard]

Gday...

I am very reluctant to provide this information as I firmly believe that a hidden member on forums is Mr Murphy and he jest loves to exercise his law. [bigsad]

But - wot the heck - here goes. Rossco I have 2006 TDV6 Auto SE which now has 245,000Km on the clock.
I bought this little beaudy in 2009 when it had 72,000Km under its belt. I travel full-time and have been towing my 23ft 2,600Kg van for about 120,000Km of that 170,000Km.

Transmission had steel pan, full flush and new filter at 80,000Km and has flush and filter change every 50,000Km since. Now this is the bit we need to say very quietly so Mr Murphy doesn't get aroused - it has performed faultlessly all this time and changes are still silky smooth and no shudder when dragging the van up hill and dale.

I tow in Drive - never cruise control - change to manual when going up, or down, any long/steepish hills. I do not have an additional transmission oil cooler fitted.

Personally, I don't think you are lucky - although if the box hasn't had 'good preventative maintenance' praps ya are lucky.

Luv me Disco 3 [bigsmile]

Cheers - John

[101RRS]

Just doing the steel sump change now - done 147,000km light towing from time to time and the fluid has never been changed - colour is that of strong tea but clear so looks Ok.

I am at the stage of having just removed all the bolts and letting the old sump hang there to drain the remaining oil.

My experience so far is typical - I had to cut down a torx bit (a loose bit not the type with the drive attached) to the minimum length so when in its socket and 1/4" drive it would fit between the old bolts and the cross members. The rear x member has the tighter fit. At the front I could undo and unscrew the bolt a far way before the tool hit the x member but then with fingers or a screw driver at an angle finished the job - thankfully none were corroded. The rear is tighter and all I was able to do was loosen the bolts as any further then the 1/4" rachet hit the x member - again there were not corroded and could be undone with fingers or an angled screw driver.

Now at the design stage of the car - why didn't they take this into account when designing the cross members - either holes through them in line with the sump bolts or indentations to allow tools to actually fit. I would hate to have a UK car and trying to get corroded bolts out. We all love our cars but some admire them though rose coloured glasses - but then all makes have similar stupid design aspects.

So I am about to go out side and break off the filter housing - any tricks for getting the new sump on and getting the bolts above the x members started?

Thanks

Garry

[101RRS]

So two hours later - the metal sump is on. As expected the front bolts are the issue - if the roll bar was not there it would be a lot easier.

The front outer bolts were Ok to get started and the front center bolt is OK because you can go through the big drain hole in the front x member - however the other two bolts were extremely difficult to get started. No problems getting the bolts to the holes but hard to get the threads to get started and easy to cross thread them due to the angle of the bolt. The 1/4" rachet was no much use to start the threads as on the return the bolt would just undo. I considered drilling two small access holes either side of the drain hole in the x member (as LR should have done) but after a million goes I managed to get the bolts in - so all is good.

The other issue I found is that the new filter would no stay in position and kept on falling down as I manoeuvred the sump into place. I assume that as the sump bolted up OK it stayed in position in the end.

Again - poor design on ZFs part - why not design the sump so the filter could be changed without having to remove the sump to change it - too easy.

Any way job done and just gotta put the oil in - as I am doing this completely cold, I am just putting in the same amount of oil back in (through the oil cooler) as I took out (+200mm for oil loss in the change) and when I do the next drain and fill I will do it hot as per the manual.

Garry

[Tombie]

No rose coloured glasses....

I have the correct drive for the sump and it fits perfectly... it’s actually shorter than a normal 1/4” drive.

Right tool for the job [emoji6]

As for “at design stage” - ZF makes a universal component (trans). LR, Ford, BMW etc decide to use it in their chassis.

It’s never a simple case of “move this or that” - the modelling for the cross member and it’s stress distribution will have been calculated for instance.

Glad you got it done ok.

[101RRS]

I have the correct drive for the sump and it fits perfectly... it’s actually shorter than a normal 1/4” drive.



What is this magic tool?

It is a nonsense to have to drop the sump to change the filter - a simple change of design at the development stage could have a horizontal slot at the 1/3 back from the front of the sump that the flat filter could be slotted in and removed when needed.

I removed 4.7 litres of old oil in put in 5 litres. The sump cold took 3 litres through the filler hole and I pumped the other 2 litres into the transmission cooler.

Drives fine as it did before but seems to hang onto 3rd a little longer - I guess it will take a little time to adapt. The car needs a service in 2500km so I will do another basic drop of fluid then and refill when hot between 35 and 50 degrees.

In future I will suck out 1 litre each 20,000km and top up with a fresh 1 litre as my ongoing service regime.

Cheers

Garry

[shanegtr]

The vast majority of auto trans use an in sump filter - there are a few around that use an external canister type filter from the factory but its not very common. Most of the in sump filters are fairly average too - more like strainers to keep the big particles out

[Tombie]

Garry, I will be doing my service in the next couple of weeks, I will take photos for you [emoji6]

[101RRS]

Garry, I will be doing my service in the next couple of weeks, I will take photos for you [emoji6]

Yes please just interested. It easy to put the front bolts back in once the threads have started but is hard to do that. If able to hold the bolt in place I actually found it easiest to start the bolt was to use a long handled blade screw driver at an angle until the treads take hold then use the torx bit etc to do it up. The position of the roll bar is what causes the issue - stopping piggy fingers getting in to hold the bolts in place.

Cheers

Garry

[Matty_P]

I use Greg Tunstall Mechanical at ormiston. He did the tranny service on my ZF. It already had a steel pan.

It's a short walk from station on Cleveland train line. Ph 07 3821 0622. He works on Rovers & Triumphs, and drives a P38.

Hey rar110 - i live not far from Gregs workshop and just about to sign off on a D3. Are you happy with the work Greg and his team do?

Thanks
Matt P

[rar110]

Hi Matt
Yes very happy. I’ve been going there for about 4 years. He’s an enthusiast which helps I think. He does quite a bit of work on D3s.

But be warned he gets a lot of work in his workshop. If you drive past you will see a lot of cars outside waiting for attention. If you absolutely need the car back the same day then let him know when making the booking.

His workshop is close to the train station which is handy for me.

Good luck with the purchase.

Regards Peter

[Matty_P]

Hi Matt
Yes very happy. I’ve been going there for about 4 years. He’s an enthusiast which helps I think. He does quite a bit of work on D3s.

But be warned he gets a lot of work in his workshop. If you drive past you will see a lot of cars outside waiting for attention. If you absolutely need the car back the same day then let him know when making the booking.

His workshop is close to the train station which is handy for me.

Good luck with the purchase.

Regards Peter

Picked up my MY09 D3 yesterday and its booked in with Greg on Friday for a general check over (needs brake pads). Its got a got a good service history 235K on the ODO paid $14,500 its neat. Been watching all the videos i can about sell servicing (within reason). Happy with it, had been looking for a D2 but the universe had other ideas.

Matt P

[rar110]

Picked up my MY09 D3 yesterday and its booked in with Greg on Friday for a general check over (needs brake pads). Its got a got a good service history 235K on the ODO paid $14,500 its neat. Been watching all the videos i can about sell servicing (within reason). Happy with it, had been looking for a D2 but the universe had other ideas.

Matt P

Tdv6 or v6? Either way you did pretty well.

Maybe consider a trans service. This era 6HP26 has the lead free stator bush.

[Matty_P]

Tdv6 or v6? Either way you did pretty well.

Maybe consider a trans service. This era 6HP26 has the lead free stator bush.

TDV6...love it.

[rar110]

TDV6...love it.

Excellent. I’m very glad Greg looked after you.

[Matty_P]

Tdv6 or v6? Either way you did pretty well.

Maybe consider a trans service. This era 6HP26 has the lead free stator bush.

Had some issues with the gearbox since i purchased the D3. Its throwing up F on the dashboard and message similar to Transmission fault limited gears available.

Long story short - its booked in with Transmission Centre at Underwood. The owner Scott gave me 30 min of his time, checked for fault codes and found two saying slipping in 5th gear. He cleared the codes no charge gave me a 20 min lesson on the ZF box as well as showed me the differences between the current plastic pan and the metal version with filter. Awesome guy generous with his time considering i havent given him any money.

Interesting discussion about the Life Guard 6 oil ---- he doesnt use much of it, only if its a car under warranty. Cant remember the exact name of the oil he uses - its either "Regal" or "Regent". He does a lot a ZF boxes and said he uses the non LifeGuard oil for 95% of services / rebuilds. He said that LifeGuard 6 at the time had a patent around some of the additives that it used, this patent has since expired and the other oil providers have caught up. Im booked in Friday week for pan change and service, fingers crossed it fixes the problem - he said 50-60% chance it will given the limited amount of errors the box is producing.

Matt P

[DiscoJeffster]

Had some issues with the gearbox since i purchased the D3. Its throwing up F on the dashboard and message similar to Transmission fault limited gears available.

Long story short - its booked in with Transmission Centre at Underwood. The owner Scott gave me 30 min of his time, checked for fault codes and found two saying slipping in 5th gear. He cleared the codes no charge gave me a 20 min lesson on the ZF box as well as showed me the differences between the current plastic pan and the metal version with filter. Awesome guy generous with his time considering i havent given him any money.

Interesting discussion about the Life Guard 6 oil ---- he doesnt use much of it, only if its a car under warranty. Cant remember the exact name of the oil he uses - its either "Regal" or "Regent". He does a lot a ZF boxes and said he uses the non LifeGuard oil for 95% of services / rebuilds. He said that LifeGuard 6 at the time had a patent around some of the additives that it used, this patent has since expired and the other oil providers have caught up. Im booked in Friday week for pan change and service, fingers crossed it fixes the problem - he said 50-60% chance it will given the limited amount of errors the box is producing.

Matt P

Over a week without flames for not using LG fluid? What is this forum becoming? Tombie has been quiet. I hope he’s ok?
I don’t use LG but use Motul ATF VI which is their claimed equivalent. I’ve been using it for four years in a trans with 200k km when I acquired and previously original fluid. So far so good. I change it annually dropping 5L and replacing so slowly diluting the original fluid. It’s now 253k km.

[kelvo]

Penrite now have a LG6 equivalent trans fluid ‘ATF BMV’.

”ATF BMV may be used in ZF (https://www.penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/oem-manufacturers-specifications-list/257) 6, 8 and 9 speed automatic transmissions where Lifeguard 6, 8 & 9 is recommended in vehicles”

ATF BMV (Full Syn) | Penrite Oil (https://www.penriteoil.com.au/applications/car-4wd/automatic-transmission/atf-bmv-full-syn)

[Matty_P]

Over a week without flames for not using LG fluid? What is this forum becoming? Tombie has been quiet. I hope he’s ok?
I don’t use LG but use Motul ATF VI which is their claimed equivalent. I’ve been using it for four years in a trans with 200k km when I acquired and previously original fluid. So far so good. I change it annually dropping 5L and replacing so slowly diluting the original fluid. It’s now 253k km.


Well Dr tranny and a mega flush didnt fix my issue so forked out $4500 and had the box reconditioned including TC and valve body. Been driving for a couple of days no issues, the tacho hunts a little bit in the 1000-1300 range but not too concerned at this stage as i guess the box needs to settle back in and relearn my driving habits.
Fuel economy has improved from a solid 10.4 ltrs/100 to 9.7-10.2ltrs/100.

Looking forward to getting off road now that i have some confidence in the box.

Matt P

[rar110]

Well Dr tranny and a mega flush didnt fix my issue so forked out $4500 and had the box reconditioned including TC and valve body. Been driving for a couple of days no issues, the tacho hunts a little bit in the 1000-1300 range but not too concerned at this stage as i guess the box needs to settle back in and relearn my driving habits.
Fuel economy has improved from a solid 10.4 ltrs/100 to 9.7-10.2ltrs/100.

Looking forward to getting off road now that i have some confidence in the box.

Matt P

Pretty reasonable value.

[Matty_P]

Pretty reasonable value.

Yep price was reasonable and I will get about $1700 back from the dealer on warranty....pitty i forked out for the mega flush.....that said i had the pan upgraded at the same time.

[Rockylizard]

Gday...

Looking for advice ... probably more like reassurance.

Background:
Discovery 3 2.7TDV6 auto. Has 255,000Km on clock now. I bought in 2010 with 72,000Km.
I tow a 2,600Kg van - have probably done 100,000Km+ with the van on.
Auto fluid/filter flushed and changed at 80,000Km and steel pan fitted.
Fluid/filter changed at 150,000Km and Dr Tranny inserted, fluid/filter and flush and Dr Tranny at 200,000Km, fluid changed and Dr Tranny at 250,000Km.
Dr Tranny only used as 'insurance' as all gear changes have always been smooth and faultless.
Box has been perfect for the last 5,000Km since last fluid change except for today.
Yes, I am probably reacting too quickly.
Today, without the van attached, it makes a clunk changing from 1st to 2nd when taking off very slowly - slight throttle.
If I take off 'briskly' no clunk, but it is not as smooth (sort of slower change up) as the change from 2nd to 3rd and upward.
Changes down automatically through gears without problem - smoothly as always ... until I am about stopped and as I stop, there is a clunk as it changes back to 1st.
Other than that, I am very happy with the box and its changes.
I have never had a shudder or any other indication of anything untoward in the whole time I have enjoyed this great vehicle.
Any ideas from those who know much more than I?
Cheers - John

[DiscoJeffster]

Mine’s similar age @ 254,000 km. Mine also has a slight clunk when going 2nd to 1st stopping. I’ve never let it bother me. It’s also a touch rougher when cold for 1st to 2nd and 3rd but smooths out when warm

[101RRS]

In my view Dr Tranny is a band aid solution - I dont think I would have been using it in a good condition, well serviced gearbox. I am not sure what the long term implications of its use are. I am not a person who believes in additives in normal circumstances but I do accept that Dr Tranny in a gearbox/TC that is starting to play up is a good stop gap until the underlying condition can be dealt with.

As to your issue, sounds more gearbox rather than issues in the torque converter where Dr Tranny has the biggest positive impact - all I can assume some of the wear components in the gearbox are starting to play up and may need replacing but from the description I cannot suggest what it might be.

There have been threads in the past months of people rebuilding some bits themselves so maybe they will come along with some advice.

Good luck with it.

Garry

[Disco-tastic]

John, mine clunks from 1st to 2nd when cold. It also clunks when taking off after coasting (with the dreaded indecisive delay). Apart from that it drives just fine. It has 187k km.

I'd suggest driving it around in sport mode and see if that makes a difference, as it may just be the programming. I've heard if you drive it like you stole in sport mode for a day or two, then change back to normal mode, the gearbox kinda relearns your driving habits.

Give it a go and let us know how you go.

Cheers

Dan

[Rockylizard]

Gday...

Thanks for the responses and advice. I think it has become a bit like having a tooth ache and the making a dentist appointment [tonguewink] the pain goes away as soon as ya hang up from making the appointment. [bigsmile1]

I actually gave it a drive with a 'bit of welly' yesterday and it hasn't clunked into or out of 1st since doing that.

Today it is back to being just my 'perfect little Disco' [smilebigeye]

I will see how it goes over the next few days.

Thanks again - John

[Eric SDV6SE]

John, mine clunks from 1st to 2nd when cold. It also clunks when taking off after coasting (with the dreaded indecisive delay). Apart from that it drives just fine. It has 187k km.

I'd suggest driving it around in sport mode and see if that makes a difference, as it may just be the programming. I've heard if you drive it like you stole in sport mode for a day or two, then change back to normal mode, the gearbox kinda relearns your driving habits.

Give it a go and let us know how you go.

Cheers

Dan
The clunk is due to wear in the valve body and most commonly the small accumulators at the end of each valve line, leaking internal seals and clutch cylinder bypass. Sonnax ZIP kits have all the parts that you need to cure this. There is also wear on the clutch packs over time, 180,000 of constant load will do that. Dirty fluid also causes shift problems and partially blocked solenoids.

Sports mode increases the line pressure in the valve body, allowing the transmission to hold gear longer, plus the shift rpm point is set higher by the mechatronic unit (it’s programmed in).

The transmissions ecu is adaptive, in that it “learns” your driving style within set parameters.

So driving it “more proactively” (i.e like you stole it) will see shift points change within preset (non changeable) limits. It will also flush out the valve body, oil cooler and torque converter.

It’s also better for the engine, burning off build up etc.

Murder on the fuel economy though...

[ozscott]

If you bought one of these with say 50,000k on the dial and then changed the fluids every say 40,000k would you be confident of getting say 250,000k before forking out the big dollars or is that just too optimistic?

Cheers

[Disco-tastic]

If you bought one of these with say 50,000k on the dial and then changed the fluids every say 40,000k would you be confident of getting say 250,000k before forking out the big dollars or is that just too optimistic?

CheersIve heard of fully sealed transmissions reaching those km so i would expect longer out of a serviced transmission.

[RANDLOVER]

Ford also thinks it's 6 speed built under licence from ZF is "filled for life", although they do recommend a flush at 50 000miles/80 000k's if doing "severe duty".

Ford 6R transmission - Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_6R_transmission)

The 6R80 can be found behind the 3.7L V-6 all the way up to the 6.2L V-8. Ford has stated that while the transmission is used in multiple applications, each transmission is optimized and integrated differently depending on the engine it is mated to. The 6R80 features "Filled for Life" low viscosity synthetic transmission fluid (MERCON LV), though a fluid flush is recommended at 50,000 miles if your truck falls under the classification of "Severe Duty" operation. The transmission, as used in the Ford F-150, has a fluid capacity of 13.1 quarts and weighs 215 lbs
Applications:


2009–present Ford F-150 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_F-150)
2009–present Ford Expedition (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Expedition)
2009–present Lincoln Navigator (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lincoln_Navigator)
2009-2010 Mercury Mountaineer (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercury_Mountaineer)
2011–2016 Ford Territory (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Territory_(Australia)) (SZ TCDi)[2] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_6R_transmission#cite_note-2)
2011-2017 Ford Mustang (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Mustang) V6, GT, Ecoboost(15-17)
2011-present Ford Ranger (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Ranger) 2.2L, 3.2L
2015-present Ford Transit (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Transit)

[RANDLOVER]

It seems there was an upgrade of the 6 spd ZF to a 6HP28 in 2006 not sure if this was ever installed in Disco's or if it would even fit. http://akpphelp.ru/images/contents/files/6HP19_21%20manual(1).pdf

[Tombie]

It seems there was an upgrade of the 6 spd ZF to a 6HP28 in 2006 not sure if this was ever installed in Disco's or if it would even fit. http://akpphelp.ru/images/contents/files/6HP19_21%20manual(1).pdf

Fitted to the 3.0 Discovery

[rar110]

Bought 20lt of LG6 from Repco for $625 today with RACQ discount.

Prob not cheapest, but was keen to get it.

[shanegtr]

Just done a full flush on my trans today. I used Penrite BMV - 20L for a $168 with discount at repco. New pan filter and I also run a magnafine filter on the cooler return line so thats new as well. Going to look at a bigger external filter as the magnafine is small and they are not the cheapest. Plus there was more metal "paste" on the internal pan magnets than whats in the filter magnet.

[shanegtr]

For those who may be interested, I had a sample of new Penrite BMV lab tested so I could compare it to a sample of new LG6 I had done some time ago. BMV on the left and LG6 on the right
153119

[101RRS]

Great but what does it mean ? Enough differences there to say they have different properties.

[shanegtr]

It is a different additive pack in the BMV - main differences in calcium and phosphorus with lower levels in the BMV and slightly more zinc in the BMV as well. Slightly higher viscosity for the BMV and the viscosity index (stability of viscosity across different temps) is near enough to the same.

For me I mainly use it as baseline data to compare the used oil samples to better track how the oil is coping

[D4thebiglap]

Shanegtr. I notice you are using Penrite BMV. Is this a product of your choice or are you using it to judge against lifeguard 6.

[RANDLOVER]

I sourced a used box from TRS in Adelaide and had it changed over, but the mechatronics wouldn't "talk" to the car, so my old D3 mechatronic had to be swapped back in. Theories abound as to: wether the box came out of a RRS, the programme is write once only, or the programme may work on certain batch numbers, but it is definitely worth hanging on to the old box until the "new" one is working if going used or reconditioned.

[justinc]

I sourced a used box from TRS in Adelaide and had it changed over, but the mechatronics wouldn't "talk" to the car, so my old D3 mechatronic had to be swapped back in. Theories abound as to: wether the box came out of a RRS, the programme is write once only, or the programme may work on certain batch numbers, but it is definitely worth hanging on to the old box until the "new" one is working if going used or reconditioned.

I'm surprised you weren't told about that prior to purchase.... there are service tools to program them to the car, all trans rebuilders have them.

[RANDLOVER]

I'm surprised you weren't told about that prior to purchase.... there are service tools to program them to the car, all trans rebuilders have them.

That was the problem my mechanic and the local ZF guy both have the programming tools, but it just wouldn't work so the mechatronic had to be swapped, the ZF guy said he'd had it happen to him before on a BMW, not sure what odds he gave of it happening 100-1 I think, so I guess I'm just lucky.

[shanegtr]

Shanegtr. I notice you are using Penrite BMV. Is this a product of your choice or are you using it to judge against lifeguard 6.
Bit of both. Mainly looked at using BMV for a couple of reasons:
1) Already there was quite a few reports from others using it without any immediate issues
2) Cost benefit over LG6
And since I have previous data with the LG6 it makes sense to compare it in service

[D4thebiglap]

Thank you for this. I've been looking at using BMV also and with your evaluation/comparison via the previous testing of LG6, I think I'll do the same.

[Tombie]

Shane’s not the only one running it.
I decided that at worst I was up for a rebuild if it went bad so give it a go.

The Penrite BMV seems to do the trick. Shift improved (oil was at 50,000km when flushed) and so far I can’t fault it after 15,000km.

[AlexRS4]

Is this an issue with the 2010 3.0TDV6 D4? I am going to assume so. Just picked up the car and has 150,000km on it, has just followed standard LR servicing. No evidence the fluid has ever been changed. Gearbox feels perfect but seems a good time to do a preventative change before it is a problem.

[eddy]

I was up at the Dowerin field day on Wednesday and noticed Alemlube had a stand.Out of interest enquired on the cost of their ATF flushing machine 47070A....show special price $5500.Looking on the Bay there are machines that appear to do the same job for a lot less Gearbox Oil Exchange Changing Cleaner Cleaning Machine Stable Safe Vevor 871248662264 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gearbox-Oil-Exchange-Changing-Cleaner-Cleaning-Machine-Stable-Safe-Vevor/183935516471?hash=item2ad3693f37:g:gpEAAOSwKFpdaYN K) We have a few vehicles to change the atf on, the only problem is understanding the 'chinglish' translation of its operation.Has anyone experience with these machines from China?

[loanrangie]

I was up at the Dowerin field day on Wednesday and noticed Alemlube had a stand.Out of interest enquired on the cost of their ATF flushing machine 47070A....show special price $5500.Looking on the Bay there are machines that appear to do the same job for a lot less Gearbox Oil Exchange Changing Cleaner Cleaning Machine Stable Safe Vevor 871248662264 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gearbox-Oil-Exchange-Changing-Cleaner-Cleaning-Machine-Stable-Safe-Vevor/183935516471?hash=item2ad3693f37:g:gpEAAOSwKFpdaYN K) We have a few vehicles to change the atf on, the only problem is understanding the 'chinglish' translation of its operation.Has anyone experience with these machines from China?

Love the chinglish instructions, i'm not sure what they mean by "butt the roof of the car" :)

[RANDLOVER]

It seems there was an upgrade of the 6 spd ZF to a 6HP28 in 2006 not sure if this was ever installed in Disco's or if it would even fit. http://akpphelp.ru/images/contents/files/6HP19_21%20manual(1).pdf




Fitted to the 3.0 Discovery

I wonder if the upgraded 6HP28 has a greater or lesser failure rate than the original 6HP26?
Pro'ly depends on if the torque converter has been upgraded too, as that seems to be the item that fails first.

[Narangga]

The description of our troubles is here: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/wa-reports/273144-darwin-pilbara-return.html#post2928257

This was at 282K km. When we bought the vehicle we were told it had a 'new' transmission at 160K. We purchased at 217K and it had a full flush at 220K. I intended to do it at 280K but decided I would get it done after we got back from the trip. [bigsad]

After umming and ahhing and undertaking untold research, we decided that we would keep the vehicle and invest in a rebuilt replacement transmission and keep the vehicle long term. Our mechanic provided us with a quote to remove the mechatronic and airfreight it to Dandenong where it was placed into a rebuilt transmission and fully tested. The unit was then freighted to Darwin and installed in our vehicle and the software for the mechatronic updated. Our old transmission is now on its way back to Dandenong. We also had the engine main seal replaced while the transmission was out as that was beginning to leak.

We have only had the vehicle since lunchtime after we arrived back from a week away. Obviously it is much smother all round than it was, although the vehicle still has to think for about 1 - 1.5 seconds from a standing start if you want to accelerate quickly. I had hoped the software update may have fixed that.

The vehicle has to go back to have the transmission checked in 30 days or 1,000 km (whichever is first). The transmission runs out of warranty either in 2 years or 50,000km whichever is first and for us it will most likely be the 2 years.

[gotaflat]

The description of our troubles is here: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/wa-reports/273144-darwin-pilbara-return.html#post2928257

This was at 282K km. When we bought the vehicle we were told it had a 'new' transmission at 160K. We purchased at 217K and it had a full flush at 220K. I intended to do it at 280K but decided I would get it done after we got back from the trip. [bigsad]

After umming and ahhing and undertaking untold research, we decided that we would keep the vehicle and invest in a rebuilt replacement transmission and keep the vehicle long term. Our mechanic provided us with a quote to remove the mechatronic and airfreight it to Dandenong where it was placed into a rebuilt transmission and fully tested. The unit was then freighted to Darwin and installed in our vehicle and the software for the mechatronic updated. Our old transmission is now on its way back to Dandenong. We also had the engine main seal replaced while the transmission was out as that was beginning to leak..

Can I ask the cost?

My D4 (2011 HSE with 308,000kms and had since new) is feeling very poor. Had the flushed and pan upgrade etc but afraid its 300,000kms has the box failing.

locking and unlocking on down hill (no braking at all)
Shift under heavy foot is a big thump and occasional no go for before it finds a gear....
feels crap...


Anyone had their 6 speed done in Perth?

thanks

[Narangga]

I didn't include in the post above that I had not had any shudder at all. In the last 2 or 3 weeks before we left on the trip on 3 July I had noticed a slow change up once or twice when towing a box trailer of palm fronds to the dump - barely a 500kg load.

The cost of the transmission - swap of mine for the rebuilt unit - was $5,500. Being in Darwin the freight (on the account of the re-manufacturer not my mechanic) was $700 total. 6 hours labour for the job including a new rear main seal while it was out.

Not many options for the rebuild here in Darwin (I don't know what you have in Perth) but mine came from a reputable and recommended firm with the 2 year or 50,000km warranty which is some reassurance. It back to the mechanic in a week or two for the mandatory 1 month or 1,000km check under the warranty.

[shanegtr]

Can I ask the cost?

My D4 (2011 HSE with 308,000kms and had since new) is feeling very poor. Had the flushed and pan upgrade etc but afraid its 300,000kms has the box failing.

locking and unlocking on down hill (no braking at all)
Shift under heavy foot is a big thump and occasional no go for before it finds a gear....
feels crap...


Anyone had their 6 speed done in Perth?

thanks
I had mine done at automac
Automac Transmissions | Perth's Trusted Transmission Specialists (https://www.automactransmissions.com.au/)
They where going to rebuild mine, but once it was apart decided the damage was to great and sent the box to ZF in Sydney as they have the capacity to load test them before installation. They wanted to make sure it was 100% as I was living in the Pilbara at the time and we didn't want any warranty issues.

[gavinwibrow]

Can I ask the cost?

My D4 (2011 HSE with 308,000kms and had since new) is feeling very poor. Had the flushed and pan upgrade etc but afraid its 300,000kms has the box failing.

locking and unlocking on down hill (no braking at all)
Shift under heavy foot is a big thump and occasional no go for before it finds a gear....
feels crap...


Anyone had their 6 speed done in Perth?

thanks


Might be a bit late, but Auto Trans R Us in Balcatta are my go to (still for anything transmission that DazzaTD5 hasn't time to do).
They rebuilt my 4HP24 in the RRC and fitted Trutracs and an additional ATF cooler for my D2a and some other bits like an HD torque converter, plus always ready to provide advice.

[gotaflat]

I had mine done at automac
Automac Transmissions | Perth's Trusted Transmission Specialists (https://www.automactransmissions.com.au/)
They where going to rebuild mine, but once it was apart decided the damage was to great and sent the box to ZF in Sydney as they have the capacity to load test them before installation. They wanted to make sure it was 100% as I was living in the Pilbara at the time and we didn't want any warranty issues.

Thanks.
can I get price check?

[shanegtr]

Charge from them was a total of $7462
The main bits where:
Labour $1150
Trans rebuild $4150
Torque Converter $595
Oil $420

[shanegtr]

Ok, first oil sample taken after 12,000km on the BMV. A point worth noting here - I flushed probably around 18 litres through my transmission when I done the change (hard to tell exact amount as I was pumping it out of a 20L drum which is now very light[thumbsupbig]), and even with that amount there is still a significant portion of the old LG6 in the oil. The additive pack is different between the two oils - specifically the calcium and phosphorus.
156334
The most recent sample from running the BMV shows the calcium and phos levels higher than unused BMV so I've still got a reasonable potion of LG6 floating around in there. Viscosity is also up, although the BMV is thicker than LG6, my current viscosity is currently in between the two. Theres also been a drop in contamination levels since the last sample when I changed the oils, however I would have liked to see a further decrease in the contamination levels. Below is the current trans sample results - second from the left 11-Jul-216 was sampled at trans failure.
156335
So my take on this so far - my current flushing method does not work all that well[bighmmm] I was pumping the fluid straight out from the cooler and refilling. So clearly this is not flushing the torque converter as I was hoping. So it may be worth finding someone with a full flush machine to do the job for you, or after the first oil change look at dropping the interval for an oil change down (I run out to 90,000km on the first oil change with some extra filtration).

[rick130]

So my take on this so far - my current flushing method does not work all that well[bighmmm] I was pumping the fluid straight out from the cooler and refilling. So clearly this is not flushing the torque converter as I was hoping. So it may be worth finding someone with a full flush machine to do the job for you, or after the first oil change look at dropping the interval for an oil change down (I run out to 90,000km on the first oil change with some extra filtration).

Bugger, it sounded promising.

Looks like I'll stick to three/four dump and fills.

[shanegtr]

Bugger, it sounded promising.

Looks like I'll stick to three/four dump and fills.
Tell me about it, it wasn't what I was expecting to see.

[Tombie]

Excellent work regardless of the results as it has given insight. [emoji106]

[TheDonsWay]

My 2007 D3 is sitting on 356,000km and no records of transmission service or fluid change in the history records that came with the vehicle. From what I can assume going by the books, I am the second owner and have clocked up 20,000km in the last 14 months or ownership. The auto has not even resembled acting up. It has done reasonably hard off road driving, heaving towing, 3t plus with the car fully loaded up at well over 600km in that trip alone, estimated 6t all up gross. Towed a boat and towed a jet ski, and the usual runs to the tip. V6 4.0 petrol still running as good as the day I bought it last year. But, on saying that, come May, I will be doing the service on the auto as a preventative measure. I cant afford to place it.

[loanrangie]

My 2007 D3 is sitting on 356,000km and no records of transmission service or fluid change in the history records that came with the vehicle. From what I can assume going by the books, I am the second owner and have clocked up 20,000km in the last 14 months or ownership. The auto has not even resembled acting up. It has done reasonably hard off road driving, heaving towing, 3t plus with the car fully loaded up at well over 600km in that trip alone, estimated 6t all up gross. Towed a boat and towed a jet ski, and the usual runs to the tip. V6 4.0 petrol still running as good as the day I bought it last year. But, on saying that, come May, I will be doing the service on the auto as a preventative measure. I cant afford to place it.


I believe that the petrol engines are easier on the trans than the TDV6 is, the earlier peak torque must shorten the lifespan. My D3 was a 1 owner (140k) stock standard never used offroad or towed and i doubt it will last that long, valve body rebuild has definitely given it a new lease of life so hoping it will go to 300k which by then will possibly be in some one else's ownership.

[Discobox]

Any body fitted a shift kit. They are a common trans, I've had a bit of a look for one but thought I'd test the forum out.

[SuperSix4]

Hi everyone,

Thought I would ask the question here - Has anyone fitted an oil vacuum to the transmission sump plug to try extract all the Trans fluid before replacing the plastic sump with a metal one?

Would like to do this myself (through a threaded insert to spout adapter), and would like to know if a vacuum will extract all fluid via the sump?

Or, will some trans fluid be left in the cooler, etc?

Thanks very much

[loanrangie]

No need, remove the drain plug and leave it overnight and you 'll get a lot of the fluid out.

[loanrangie]

Any body fitted a shift kit. They are a common trans, I've had a bit of a look for one but thought I'd test the forum out.

since fitting the sonnax kit i would say its a repair kit and a shift improver much like a shift kit, it definitely shifts differently then before and seems to hold first a bit longer.

[SuperSix4]

No need, remove the drain plug and leave it overnight and you 'll get a lot of the fluid out.

Good to know, thanks. I would like to get as close to a full extraction as possible, so hoping to take more than the 4-5 litres out that people have been reporting when they drain the sump. Very keen to take as much out of the cooler and other lines as possible.

Will post back what I find.

[loanrangie]

Good to know, thanks. I would like to get as close to a full extraction as possible, so hoping to take more than the 4-5 litres out that people have been reporting when they drain the sump. Very keen to take as much out of the cooler and other lines as possible.

Will post back what I find.

Unless you you use the flushing process you wont get any more than half the fluid out as it sits in the torque converter.

[SuperSix4]

Unless you you use the flushing process you wont get any more than half the fluid out as it sits in the torque converter.

Gotcha, thanks. I've been reading up on Filo's flushing process (on Disco3 UK) and think I might be best with this process:



Disconnecting trans fluid line into radiator, then turning engine on to drain what I can
Turn off engine, drain sump, then replace plastic transmission pan with metal pan and new filter kit
Top up transmission fluid using pressurised hose using correct cooler lines near radiator (again, following Filo's method)
Top up transmission fluid using Filler plug in transmission, run through gears, etc


Expecting now to use more than the 7L that came with the metal sump conversion kit, so will need to purchase another 3 or so Lifeguard 6.

Would appreciate any pointers on these steps. I've looked through both this thread, and the thread on Filo's posting, and cannot see the process detailed like this.

[loanrangie]

Gotcha, thanks. I've been reading up on Filo's flushing process (on Disco3 UK) and think I might be best with this process:



Disconnecting trans fluid line into radiator, then turning engine on to drain what I can
Turn off engine, drain sump, then replace plastic transmission pan with metal pan and new filter kit
Top up transmission fluid using pressurised hose using correct cooler lines near radiator (again, following Filo's method)
Top up transmission fluid using Filler plug in transmission, run through gears, etc


Expecting now to use more than the 7L that came with the metal sump conversion kit, so will need to purchase another 3 or so Lifeguard 6.

Would appreciate any pointers on these steps. I've looked through both this thread, and the thread on Filo's posting, and cannot see the process detailed like this.

It is, done it a few times using Penrite BMV, didnt fix the issues i had but a valve body rebuild with new solenoids and zip kit did.

[SuperSix4]

It is, done it a few times using Penrite BMV, didnt fix the issues i had but a valve body rebuild with new solenoids and zip kit did.

Hoping it doesn't come to that, but have seen a couple of people on the AULRO forum post some good Youtube videos of this being done.

I am intending to leave the Mechatronic sleeve in place. I realise this is a common source of leaks, but will probably replace this in about 50,000km when I do the next Trans Fluid service.

Thanks