Lifted P38 on air - questions

[davidsonsm]

the front prop shaft spacers would need to be sized to allow full engagement on the bump stops ie the splined shaft would be fully engaged at this height.

[mtb_gary]

You could probably have one made up easy enough! A 10mm steel plate, plasma cut and drilled would do the trick.

If one of you guys in Melbourne has access to a diff/prop shaft for measuring, I'm sure Andrew at Technico Automotive would be able to assist. He's appears to have access to all the good gear for fabrication ;).

Maybe a group purchase would be if interest, I can't imagine they would be too expensive?

Gary

[benji]

Sorry, yes in addition.

I was thinking at the diff end as there's less side loading of the joint.

[Keithy P38]

I think before a group buy is placed, we will need to agree on the thickness of the spacer. Some might put spacers on radius arms, others might not.

Is anyone keen to do some R&D or would you like me to do it?

[mtb_gary]

I've been putting off putting spacers (10mm) on the radius arms to avoid problems with the prop shaft spline. Sure double cardon would be great, but for me I could not justify the cost.

But if you're volunteering Keith...;)

Gary

[Keithy P38]

I will begin the R&D process when I get home!

I think I may have done a CV last weekend anyway so I've already got an excuse to get under the old girl!

Cheers
Keithy

[Keithy P38]

So from what I can tell, I may have done the uni's in my front driveshaft. The ones at the transfer case end have cracks on the inside edges. I heard the noise again when driving Rangie the other day which I thought were CV joints, but the vibration when driving straight ahead between 20kmh and 60kmh would suggest that the cracks in the universal could be the reason - plus it had a bit of play.

I think there are a few contributing factors here, and although it seems to be timely with the lift kit being installed, I don't think the lift was the reason.

It was the only one of all grease points that I could not pump grease into (so pure operator error as I've known about the dodgy grease nipple for years and not done anything about it). I will replace them next week.

On the topic of the lift again, I have finally purchased and installed the TF145's for my Rangie! Since being lifted I've had the 144's up front but only had standard "front" shocks in the rear (as I originally planned to use 144's in the rear for dislocation - fail).

It's amazing the difference between the 144 and 145's - the 144's have WAAAAAY more travel and still compress to much the same height (acceptable for use in the rear). It's a shame I couldn't make them work.

I did a side-by-side of the standard fronts and 145's. They are virtually identical in compressed length, the 145's have an extra 10mm-odd in extended length.

Cheers
Keithy

[davidsonsm]

I know which nipple you refer to. Ive broken it before. Not easy to get the gun on to. I ended up installing an extended nipple from memory.

Interesting observstions re the rear shocks.

[Keithy P38]

So a quick comparison here - before and after. Same lump of dirt. You'll notice I managed to drive right up to the top with the front right tyre before the back wanted to start lifting off whereas before I was 2/3 of the way up with the front right and the back was easily in the air.

Before Lift:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

After Lift:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Before Lift:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

After Lift:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Also noteworthy is that the amount of crimp-ring exposed on the rear bags is perfectly the same as it was prior to the lift with the exception that the piston is sitting level for/aft so there is no pull on the rear of the bag.

Before Lift:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/p38a-range-rover/75042d1396327665-lifted-p38-air-questions-blue-range-rover-063.jpg

After Lift:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Plus i'm wasting bandwidth so I can put the links in the new thread!

Cheers
Keithy

[Keithy P38]

A bit more of a bandwidth killer... Some images for the new thread.

[Keithy P38]

Last lot - I promise!

[benji]

Hey I recognise that messy shed. .. lol.

Just seeing those pics from the other kits makes me want to hurry up and get it finished! !!!!!!!!!

[Pete38]

Hey all. I'm finally back onto the lift I mostly prepared many months ago.

I'm at work and thought I should finish my pins off to attach the spacers to the axle plates but after confirmation of a few dimensions seeing the car isn't here with me.

The plates on the axles are 4mm thick? So with my 4mm thick spacer plates I need the split pin holes to be 8mm apart from edge to edge.

What diameter are the standard split pins? I may make my own pins but I have spare factory size split pins at home as I ordered for this job many months ago.

Also curious of the space between the axle housing and the airbag plate? So the clearance the pin can hang down below the axle plate.

[Pete38]

Well after starting the project the same time Keith started, I have finally made some more progress. Height sensors modified (and tested that they don't bottom out with stock bump stops) and one extended shock in. Yep only one before I ran out of time. I'll put the other 3 in next weekend as well as fit the spacers. Hoping the front shocks are as easy as the rears.

[Keithy P38]

Can't wait to see the finished product Pete!

[Pete38]

Warning!!! Ramble below

Hey I don't think this will work.... But worth asking your thoughts anyway;

Question 1: How much shorter are the pistons on the stock bags over the gen 3 ones?

Reason I ask is that rather than buy spare arnott gen 3 bags for spares (as the current shocks will over stretch the stock bags off road) I was wondering how much I would get away with packing the spare stock bags just to limp home. Was thinking of making some spacers up so the stock bags wouldn't likely over extend. But this might cause the stock bags to bottom out when on the bump stops.. And I would have to pack them a fair amount to make them not over extend.

So now thinking limit straps might be better to stop over extending the stock spare bags if I ever need them off road.

Anyone looked at how hard it would be to install limit straps to stop over extension of stocks bags?

Could carry a spare front and spare rear shock but soon I'll be carrying a whole spare car if I'm not careful ha ha.

Anyway, I'm thinking as typing as you cn see.

Thoughts???

Option 1: Spacers for stock bags as spares (one front and one rear)

Option 2: Limit straps (not sure where to mount to while being a lounge mechanic. Chassis maybe???

Option 3: Take spare stock shocks (one front and one rear or maybe just one rear to minimise extra stuff)

Option 4: Grin and bare carrying $600 worth of spare gen 3's in the boot. Although this option means I can replace the popped bag in due time and still have a full set of gen 3's on.

[Keithy P38]

I'd carry a spare OEM and avoid the washed out tracks where possible!

I know that 90% of places I travel have chicken tracks that allow you to maintain all-4 on the ground.

A limiting strap could be bolted to the top and bottom shock mount, clamped to the upper half of the shock with a cable tie to prevent it flapping in the breeze too much.

Cheers
Keithy

[Pete38]

I'd carry a spare OEM and avoid the washed out tracks where possible!

I know that 90% of places I travel have chicken tracks that allow you to maintain all-4 on the ground.

A limiting strap could be bolted to the top and bottom shock mount, clamped to the upper half of the shock with a cable tie to prevent it flapping in the breeze too much.

Cheers
Keithy

Fair point. Maybe I'm just being over cautious.

That top mount on the rear shocks won't be easy to access though will it? Good spot if it's accessible though

[Keithy P38]

Yeah it'll be fun to get at! Otherwise you may be able to loop a strap over the crossmember between the rear spring upper mounts!

[Hammer H]

Its now been 4 years since Keithy started this thread and Im wondering how many still have their air lifted P38s and what if any changes and fine tuning they may have done do get the most out of their lift.

My lift is a 50mm Front with 35mm bump stops and 40/60mm rear with 50mm bump stops. I'm thinking about changing my height settings. The settings I went for were stock (plus lift) for Access Hwy and Standard and added two inches to stock for High as I have Gen 3s.

My access is fine
Highway I may adjust as on some occasions I feel as though it may have bottomed out but could be just the feeling of the harder Ge 3s.
Standard I'm thinking to raise approx 25mm to be the mid point of what Ive calculated to be the mid point of my articulation. But just concerned uni joint binding may be a problem.
High Ive never really used this as we don't have many river crossings here in the south of WA and at two inches above the stock setting it is not suitable for off road articulation.

I'm also looking into reducing the the height of by bump stops at the front by 10mm and wondering if anyone else can offer advice on that. And if there any room to reduce the rear bump stops.

I fit 285/75/16s when going away and just the other day finally found time to use the heat gun i purchased years ago to reshape the plastic guard moldings behind the from wheels due to occasional scrubbing while off road.

I quickly learn t the best way to do this is to press the plastic where you want it to go, and then heat around that area, let it cool of then release the pressure.

Cheers Paul

[mtb_gary]

Paul

Since my initial lift I have done a few minor changes. The most obvious is the change from off road boss adjustables to Terra Firma adjustable shocks. I do like the new Terrafirma Firma shocks. They seem like a better build quality and much easier to adjust. There are only 4 settings compared with the Off Road Boss 11. Although towards the end the Off Road Boss adjusters seized and could not be adjusted. I now have extended bump stops on the front and have done away with the agricultural botched job of rubber spacers and brackets. The height sensor extensions have also been fine tuned. I started off with rubber extensions clamped between the cut shaft. This proved too flexible and resulted in height variations. I now have metal tube (brake line) sleeves with metal spacers (tent peg) cut to the correct length on the inside of the tube. The tube is held in place with stainless steel u bolts on each end.

[Keithy P38]

Its now been 4 years since Keithy started this thread and Im wondering how many still have their air lifted P38s and what if any changes and fine tuning they may have done do get the most out of their lift.

My lift is a 50mm Front with 35mm bump stops and 40/60mm rear with 50mm bump stops. I'm thinking about changing my height settings. The settings I went for were stock (plus lift) for Access Hwy and Standard and added two inches to stock for High as I have Gen 3s.

My access is fine
Highway I may adjust as on some occasions I feel as though it may have bottomed out but could be just the feeling of the harder Ge 3s.
Standard I'm thinking to raise approx 25mm to be the mid point of what Ive calculated to be the mid point of my articulation. But just concerned uni joint binding may be a problem.
High Ive never really used this as we don't have many river crossings here in the south of WA and at two inches above the stock setting it is not suitable for off road articulation.

I'm also looking into reducing the the height of by bump stops at the front by 10mm and wondering if anyone else can offer advice on that. And if there any room to reduce the rear bump stops.

I fit 285/75/16s when going away and just the other day finally found time to use the heat gun i purchased years ago to reshape the plastic guard moldings behind the from wheels due to occasional scrubbing while off road.

I quickly learn t the best way to do this is to press the plastic where you want it to go, and then heat around that area, let it cool of then release the pressure.

Cheers Paul

G'day Paul

As you know I sold my blue P38 in December 2015, but before I sold it I returned the suspension to OEM and sold it as a standard P38 with mud tyres and a snorkel. I did, however, keep the lift kit at home as I knew I'd apply it to my current P38 at some stage.

its very good timing that you ask about it now, it'll be by the end of the year that I fit it up.

I think you'd get away with 10mm bump stop chops. If not, have you got a plan B if you start throwing faults or injure a bag?

Keep us posted on how you go mate!

Cheers
Keithy

[Hammer H]

Thanks Gary, sounds like the adjustable terafirmas are the way to go.

[Hammer H]

Hi Keithy so you think I could go 10mm less front and back?

yes plan b is I mostly switch the Eas off so if it goes out of range it dosnt register. Also carry some spares, I'd hate to bottom out a bag though.

Wonder if anyone has.