Sitec's 101..

[Sitec]

Well, finally after the driver got lost in Canberra (twice) because he was new..., the haulage truck caught fire in the Adelaide Hills and took the first car of the load out (supposedly), and then it spent 3 days in a lockup in Adelaide because they were too busy to get it delivered... rah rah rah, a week later its arrived!!! I have a 101 @ home, and here it is!! :)

[Sitec]

And here's the door logo. More to follow at the weekend when we get into pulling wheels off, checking brakes, lights etc, rectifying the leaking fuel tank, and generally getting it ready for attempt 1 at Regency Park!!!! :o

[Sitec]

From the right.. After the first mad dash up the dirt road but before the tank decided it was a shower head!!! :D

[The ho har's]

finally you have it :D:banana::arms::twobeers::BigThumb:

Now the hard work begins:(:D

get it in tip top shape as soon as you can:D then enjoy driving :D

Mrs hh:angel:

[cooee]

hi sitec:)
very nice 101 I am sure you have great adventures look forward to see how you put your personal flair to it have you decided on name yet
cheers cooee:D

[amazing]

looking good.

no spare wheel tho??

tyres look very evenly worn. would guess they have swapped out at some point..rears last forever fronts not so much.

fuel lock looks missing too. mine at some stage had an extra flap hinged at the top over fuel filler with hasp at bottom.

have fun with the work.
mine proved 100%reliable over 8 years ( after initial fixing)

[MudSkull]

Nice 101!

[Mick_Marsh]

Congrats Simon. Now the work begins.

MudSkull, How is yours getting on? Got it all sorted for camping yet?

[Offender90]

Congrats Simon,

Truck's looking good... Except for that patch of paint peeling off the front - Due to excessive heat, no doubt! ;)

Reckon it might need a new tilt too with all that smoke exposure? :p

[Sitec]

Yeah, the heat exposure was sooo bad I had to get a new tilt! Amazing, good spot re fuel lock.. Yup, missing in action. Spare is in the workshop along with another spare.. They are lent against the 6 XZL'S that'll b going on the rims next week. Have a fume curtain and a NATO hitch in there too along with most of the original engine. All original chassis plates are there so might have to do some tracking on the original MOD rego number! Oh, and re his name Cooee, yup that was decided once the deal was done! With his past involvement with the Irish Rangers, and with Mick Marsh's assistance at collecting me from the airport there could only be one name.... Mick!! :D
The first big mod will be the fitment of the 'borrowed' 3.9 if that offer is still there... as the diesel departed the UK on the 22nd so I won't see that for 10+ weeks. First trip is in oct so have a bit to do!!

[DasLandRoverMan]

Looks like you're a happy man now it's there anyways, although the story of the trip does sound like something my 4 year old might have come up with to explain why she'd taken a few weeks to deliver something.

Has the boss given you permission to play with it, or does the Series II need to be finished first?

Is that a MkI Golf in the background? I remember spending several days welding the front end of a GTi a few years back.
Spent as much time scraping underseal off it.

[Sitec]

Das, its a bit like that... I've got the wife's truck to the chassis painting stage now, so the next few weeks are up to her there!! Good pickup re the Golf... It's a Mk 2 GTD with a Tdi implant.... It came with us in the container! Had it for years and thought why sell something that's so reliable and surprisingly fast! In daily use now until the 101 has rego... which could be a while!! :D

[101RRS]

You also need to install a reversing light before rego.

[Offender90]

The offer's still there ;).

[MudSkull]

MudSkull, How is yours getting on? Got it all sorted for camping yet?

Hey Mick, We temporarily set it up for camping and have been on a few big trips Mungo, Innamincka, Frazer Island and local camping..

Have not used it much during the last year or so though due to being too busy with work. :(

However, Time is becoming more available and we have plans for a new hard top in the near future. Its is playing up with running too hot at the moment.. so the plan is I'll get that sorted, then a camp or two ... then the hardtop! :)

[wrinklearthur]

And here's the door logo. More to follow at the weekend when we get into pulling wheels off, checking brakes, lights etc, rectifying the leaking fuel tank, and generally getting it ready for attempt 1 at Regency Park!!!! :o

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-variations/63386d1374655946-sitecs-101-image.jpg

That Emblem is a very interesting clue for me with something totally removed from Land Rovers.

I have been looking for information without a lot of luck, about an ancestor called Robert Orr, who emigrated to Tasmania in the mid 1800's, it was always said in our family, that he was a Ranger and worked as a constable in the Highlands of Tasmania.

Orr is a popular surname in Scotland and Ireland, much like the surname Smith or Johnston is found in present day Tasmania, with the name William Orr constantly being used in the Orr family and many Roberts', this gave many false leads, so I can now follow up the idea that he was a Ranger in the Irish Military.

.

[Sitec]

Here's a hard top pic for you MudSkull... It's one I built about 10 yrs ago in the UK. Might be building another soon here.... but skinned in Alli not steel. (Although it rode well). Glad that logo was of assistance for you Arthur. It's one of the reasons I bought it... as I was born in Ireland!

[isuzurover]

The offer's still there ;).

You trying to swap your 90 for a 101???

[Offender90]

You trying to swap your 90 for a 101???

Hahaha... Not quite. Simon was gonna borrow the 3.9 V8 out of the 90 that's sitting in his shed until his 6 cylinder diesel arrives from the UK & is ready to go in. I have something else to take its place :twisted:

[101RRS]

Why not just get the 3.5 to run OK rather than going to the trouble of putting in a 3.9 temporarily??

[Homestar]

All systems go Simon!:). Sounded like quite an effort finally getting it there.

Garry, I think the 3.9 would be quicker to fit than getting the 3.5 to run properly based on how it ran when I saw it. Also, as it will get ditched once the diesel makes it way over, then it probably isn't worth spending any money on.

Also, Simon can keep Bojan's 3.9 nice and warm while it is sitting there doing nothing...:D

[101RRS]

What is wrong with the 3.5?? With the 3.9, putting aside the simple hassle of pulling the old engine out and putting the new one in - you have the issue of rigging up the fuel injection system, making up a new rod for the gear lever,k making up a new air box hoses etc.

A lot of work for a temporary install.

Garry

[Homestar]

I'm sure Sitec has had a good look over it since getting it home and maybe I'll leave the details to him - I've only seen it drive up and down a driveway so I'd just be guessing.

[Sleepy]

You can run the 3.9 on carbs which makes things a bit simpler . I must admit it does sound like a lot of work though for a temporary engine..

[101RRS]

You can run the 3.9 on carbs which makes things a bit simpler . I must admit it does sound like a lot of work though for a temporary engine..

The carbs etc will run on any Rover engine but as the 3.5 runs I would assume that the issues with that engine relate to the carbs as I doubt AJ would have sold a 101 with major bottom end issues.

Garry

[Sitec]

Gav, you're pretty well spot on.. The 3.5 is a fairly tired (AJ special) 200000+ kms engine out of a Disco because the original was U.S. Not exactly sure why but when a mate and I lifted it out of the rear (came with the 101 so it stays with it), several things rolled around in the sump. Will investigate further. The current engine is very tappy and quite smokey when cold, and as it will be being replaced there is little point in spending on cam, followers, the gaskets to do the job, and an oil pump if I'm going that far, so it makes sense to slot the 3.9 in. I will b dropping the carbs onto it for ease, and will be lifting the diff ratio to 4.7:1 so might need the 3.9 to pull it along.. thinking the 255's will add 15kmh too! Not only that... When the diesel gets here, it won't be going straight in... It'll be run on the floor, then have injectors and valve clearances checked, service and transfer case grafted on. It'll also be 'slimmed down'... The turbo has to be relocated to the back of the engine, compressor moved, etc etc. The plan now is to run it as is for 8/10 months, slowly doing diffs, bumper etc then when the 'diesel time' comes it'll be body off, serious clean up and paint. Fit diesel along with deeper rad and large intercooler, then drop the cab and tray back on. In the middle of that I have to decide on a colour but have found a pic of a standard GS on the Michelins and in original Bronze Green.. Kinda like it!!

[Mick_Marsh]

One I spotted in Ararat.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=63431&stc=1&d=1374759414
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=63432&stc=1&d=1374759478

[MudSkull]

Here's a hard top pic for you MudSkull... It's one I built about 10 yrs ago in the UK. Might be building another soon here.... but skinned in Alli not steel. (Although it rode well). Glad that logo was of assistance for you Arthur. It's one of the reasons I bought it... as I was born in Ireland!

Thanks Sitec, I had spied that one in my research and saved that pic as thought is was cool and just about what I would like too. :) I especially liked what you did with the back door.

I'll be doing something similar but wondered whether I should start my canopy at the top of the top side gate .. if you know what I mean.

The plan is to build it in aluminium too but the final design is still fluid..

[cooee]

hi mick that 101 lived on gold coast owner brought out from England
sold 5 years ago was re painted just before he sold it
cheers cooee:o

[DasLandRoverMan]

Very shiney, and looks rather tidy, but there's far too many bronze green 101's these days.
It'd look cool painted yellow.

[Mick_Marsh]

hi mick that 101 lived on gold coast owner brought out from England
sold 5 years ago was re painted just before he sold it
cheers cooee:o
I believe it was imported by AJ.
It was once owned by a fellow in Geelong, Had the Vic plates UK-101.
Then sold to the fellow in Queensland who offered it for $16k in Ararat.
I tried to buy it but he didn't return my calls.

[Mick_Marsh]

Very shiney, and looks rather tidy, but there's far too many bronze green 101's these days.
It'd look cool painted yellow.
You and your yellow!
You would have liked Cooee's now owned by proud101owner.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[101RRS]

You and your yellow!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/introductions/23896d1269596007-hi-western-victoria-dsc00227.jpg

Looks like it was owned by a pimp :o. How outlandish can you get?

[Sitec]

Hi MudSkull. My original plan was to mount the hardtop atop the sides too, but it soon became apparent that mounting a roof to those four pillars and the windscreen was not going to happen. I ended up going direct to the arch which gave it decent rigidity and cutting the front tray uprights (yeah, I know, but they were marked and done accurately so could have been refitted.. ). In the top of the cut uprights I cut a piece of plate with a captive nut which gave it even more strength and then onto a new screen. That still flexed quite a bit tho.. Ideally the soft black stuff they use needs taking out and a decent Sikaflex used as glass is very tough that way.

[MudSkull]

Hi MudSkull. My original plan was to mount the hardtop atop the sides too, but it soon became apparent that mounting a roof to those four pillars and the windscreen was not going to happen. I ended up going direct to the arch which gave it decent rigidity and cutting the front tray uprights (yeah, I know, but they were marked and done accurately so could have been refitted.. ). In the top of the cut uprights I cut a piece of plate with a captive nut which gave it even more strength and then onto a new screen. That still flexed quite a bit tho.. Ideally the soft black stuff they use needs taking out and a decent Sikaflex used as glass is very tough that way.

Thanks for the Headsup Sitec, Hmm .. my idea was to try an put some kind of lockdown stays/rods along the canopy (that's what i'm calling it :)) to the arches and body floor using the existing tie down points (if possible) and clamping the canopy down. The windscreen area I had not though about yet.

Thanks again, I'll keep your way in mind before I go ahead.. my idea may prove bad! :)

[MudSkull]

Looks like it was owned by a pimp :o. How outlandish can you get?

Heheh, I reckon it looks great! Also like the Orange and Lime Green ones, Mine is very drab! :)

[101RRS]

I am surprised it doesn't have a nipple pink bullbar and nibble pink hubs and wheels nuts.:o.

[Sleepy]

...Mine is very drab! :)

Mine too😇

[cooee]

you realy like your nipple pink wheel nuts gary:D
cheers cooee:D

[Sleepy]

The carbs etc will run on any Rover engine but as the 3.5 runs I would assume that the issues with that engine relate to the carbs as I doubt AJ would have sold a 101 with major bottom end issues.

Garry

You know what they say about assumptions.....they make an ass out of "u" and "umption"

[Sitec]

What's this about nipples???? Re engines, nah, the original engine has bottom end issues I think.. That's why it was in the back. It's current engine is tired.. He said that as he knew I had the diesel planned.. It's fine in the bottom end, and its fine once warm, and now I've started to thrash it about a bit seems to be getting cleaner by the day. Started yesterday instantly with minimal smoke. Still taps a lot. Idles better now, as the dash pots now have oil in them!! Plugs look new so have not bothered to pull them out yet... Diesel is due in dock on the 4th of sept I'm told so may well run with the tappy V8 for now..

[Sitec]

Well, got into it this avo! Fuel tank off and that bent dropper plate is no more! Took it for a decent run today.... Seems it likes to blow its water out once at running temp, and then when you let it sit at idle, the smog returns from the exhaust... I removed the oil filler cap whilst it was running and was greeted by a rhythmic chuf chuf chuf chuf... Yup, the engine is defo coming out.. I also noticed something that I missed whilst crawling around it at AJ's... When the Disco engine was fitted, not all of the bolt on bits were swapped... I have about 100mm clearance between the front axle and bump stops... and only about 50mm between the Salisbury and oil filter!! Guess I'll be finding a stumpy filter short term!! Mmmmm, I can hear that Cummins now!!

[Sitec]

Think I found the leak.... Great piece of British design!! Perfect water trap there between tank and cradle!!! Anyway, for those that are interested, I have 101 number 95600386A which I believe to have been built in 1976.. It's military rego was 63 FL 59... Nearly settled on the colour as well.... Thinking it'll either be a deep red or white.. neither of which SWIMBO approves of!!

[cooee]

hi sitec :)
you have been busy boy all takes what about candy apple red looks good on some hot rods I seen
look forward to seeing how you instal Cummings I am sure bit of work there
have you got 4.71 centres keep up good work
cheers cooee:)

[Sitec]

Hi Cooee. Funny you should mention Candy Apple Red... The last LR build I did in the UK was very close to that... It was a unique vehicle... 92" wheelbase, LT77 and 2.4 turbo intercooler VW 6 cyl diesel. Sounded awesome!! Hopefully I have some 4.7's organised.. He's letting me know when he's got them out.
As for the Cummins. Yeah, should be interesting.. The Nissan was a fairly tight squeeze!! :)

[DasLandRoverMan]

Nice leaky tank you have there, certainly makes the decision to have it transported seem smart.
Fix it, or sneak it into work and spend some time making a new one?

Colour wise, Satin Black looks good on a GS.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/111.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/816.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/112.jpg

For those still in doubt, here's a sausage sandwich.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/113.jpg

[101RRS]

Colour wise, Satin Black looks good on a GS.



Not in Australia - 101s are hot enough inside with no ventiliation, you don't want to compound this with black paint.

Garry

[Mick_Marsh]

You have square sausages!

I do agree, satin black looks good, but as Gary said.......

[101RRS]

Fuel tank off

You need the upgraded Aussie 101 tank - much heavier built with thicker steel - doesn't have the pressings on the side.

Garry

[DasLandRoverMan]

Interesting looking little Land Rover you built there, one might almost argue that it's got the look of what the Series III should have been?

Getting the cummins in could be a little interesting, especially in terms of length with an LT230 on the back -had a tape measure out thinking about it ages ago with some figures from a guy who put one in a 90 - and suspect if you could have the radiator further forward than standard to allow the engine to sit right up at the front of the space available it should be possible to get it in with the transfer box about 6-8 inches further back than the standard position.

The limiting factor in moving the radiator forward will be the steering idler, otherwise you'll find turning left to be an issue.
Power steering with a defender box mounted backwards and operating the drag link directly may be a workable solution, rather than the saw bits off the chassis method that many have employed. I doubt the DAF box will be of much help...

[Homestar]

Just on the subject of tanks, if you were making one from scratch, how much bigger than standard do you reacon you could build one without it looking weird or compromising too much off roading ability?

Mine is on borrowed time so looking at options myself. The stainless tank from the 101 club looks good and is well priced, but not sure what freight would cost.

I have access to a steel fabrication workshop with CNC plasma cutter, folding machines, MIG's, TIG's and oxy - my favourite so making my own is a real option that is open to me, and I was thinking of squeezing in a few extra litres if possible.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Allisport did at least one deep stainless one for a guy in the UK for his Ambi. It's the yellow/blue one that went overland to SA from the UK a few years back. Was on the 101 club as 'climbingchris', you can probably find photos if you look.

[Homestar]

I think this is the one? Only shot I can find shows the tank nicely...:D. There are comments about it in a couple of threads. I think it is a 160 litre unit.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=63528&d=1375006217

Could be wrong, but it looks like it has a bit sticking out under the chassis, so it isn't just a box shape.

[DasLandRoverMan]

That's the one, I remember talking to him about when he put it on its side in that picture. Said it went over that slowly and gently he wished he had a grease gun to hand so he could have jumped out, grease the props and make it look deliberate.

As far as I know it's just a deeper tank, but it's a few years since I last saw it.
The exhaust system on it sounds pretty awesome too.

[101RRS]

That tank will not fit properly on a GS - remember the ambo body is wider.

Garry

[cooee]

why not look at some fuel tanks off some trucks all alli I think one would adapt ok
cooee:)

[Sitec]

I made the tanks on my old one as its original suffered the same fate as this one... The RH tank was the same height and width as the original but about 400mm shorter with an air tank sat in front of it... I then had a 25mm link pipe to another tank on the left which was the same capacity as the original.. Worked well. Have thought about building a new one and stepping it in under the RH chassis rail but thinking forward to the big diesel, there's going to be a piece of large bore stainless running thru there somewhere.... Taking the 101 and tank into work tomorrow to introduce the steam cleaner to them both, then I plan to cut the bottom out of it and replace it with some 1.5 mm..

[101 Ron]

As Garry stated earlier some aussie 101s were refitted with a locally produced fuel tank.
They are the same size as the standard tank and directly interchange with the standard items.
It is worth noting the local tanks appear to be made from 3mm sheet steel folded to shape and then the ends welded in.........much improved over standard tanks.(local tanks appear to give no trouble)
To increase the capacity of the tank you can only go downwards tank wise.
A moderate increase in capacity can be had without losing too much ground clearance.

[Sitec]

3mm... That'd be bullet proof!! The ones I made in the UK were 2mm and they were overkill! The last pics I have of it that I found on the 101 Club forum, the guys removed them to return it to STD... Bet they're sat in a shed somewhere gathering dust!!!

[101RRS]

My updated army tank is very well built - there is nothing subtle about it and could be used as a rock slider :).

Garry

[stuee]

Check out this thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/136398-101fc-fuel-tank-options.html

Many pictures of the Aussie spec tanks in there courtesy of the members on here. I ended up repairing mine which should see me through until I can pay for a custom one to be made.

[101RRS]

I guess the main difference between the original tank and the aussie tank (other than the thickness of metal) is that the original sits in a cradle where rust can form between it and the bottom of the tank where the aussie one is robust enough for the mounts to be part of the tank and no cradle is needed.

Garry

[Sitec]

So, how many am I making then?? :D

[Homestar]

So, how many am I making then?? :D

How much you charging?:). I could be interested. Are you looking to make a standard sized tank, or a bit bigger? I would ideally like around 140 ltrs give or take. I am happy to look at building one myself, but if you are heading own that track, I'm more than happy to see where it goes. :)

[101RRS]

The tanks could probably go another 6" deep and really not compromise ground clearance but they really do need baffles and a one way flap on the filler end - fill the tank and then park downhill on small slope and you will have fuel running out.

Garry

[101 Ron]

You may serve everyone better if you post plans of your fuel design????????
for future restorations????????????

[Homestar]

Well, just run a tape measure over the tank and had a look where more tank could go. Easiest is just to make it deeper. All measurements were rough, but give the idea. Volume calculations are based on a square edged tank, not allowing for thickness of material used, so will be a few litres out. here's what I have worked out can be done.

Adding 55mm to the depth will give a total volume of 140 litres
Adding 100mm to the depth will give a total volume of 160 litres
Adding 55mm to the depth, and putting a 75mm step under the chassis would give a total volume of 150 litres
Adding 100mm to the depth and putting a 75mm step under the chassis would give a total volume of 174 litres

If you want more, then the tank can be extended forwards right up to where the mudflap mounts - another 120mm which could dramatically increase volume. If that was done, and the step under the chassis, with a 100mm increase in depth, then theoretically you could get nearly a 200 litre tank in there. That would require a lot of work, so realistically obtaining 150 to 160 litres is no real problem.

Not sure if the 100mm extra hanging down would be too much, but I'm not planning on doing any tough off roading with mine, so that may work. That still gives me about the same clearance and ramp over angles as my Rangie, so ok, but not great.

Time to knock up some drawings....:)

[Sitec]

Well, looked at it for an hour tonight then thought, have enough steel in to make a repair so introduced the grinder to it! Here's the hole now.... A little bigger!! A mate from the north of England turned up.. (They're the ones that are a little loopy!!:D), and he was happy to wave a naked flame in there to test the Big Bang Theory... All good, we're both still here. Now to form and attach the new baseplate. The rest of the tank is A1. Will see how it goes and post more pics as I go! Re the new tanks. They'd b the same size, as I'd be making a matching pair for the big diesel. I'd model them on the on pictured earlier with the 45 deg edges that I had on my old monster. I'd plan to make them in about 6 months. Could make them deeper for those that want them. Out of interest, what capacity is the STD tank? Oh, and where do I find my chassis number? Cheers all! :)

[Homestar]

Standard capacity is 100 litres. Not sure where the chassis number is stamped.

[Sitec]

Shaping the radius on the new tank bottom...

[101RRS]

What is that box thing on the base of the tank at the front??

[Sitec]

There is only one upright (use the term baffle loosely here), which sits to the rear of the vehicle. When flat, the fuel flows all around it. When you point the vehicle up hill, all the fuel runs to the rear and the fuel pump stays submerged. When you go down a hill, most of the fuel runs to the front but I'm guessing that about 2/3 litres remains behind the 'U' shaped baffle, keeping the fuel pick up submerged and the fuel pump reasonably submerged.. There's also a small piece of pressed tin soldered to the base with a hole in it which accepts the returns line tube. Quite why they feel the need to affix the returns pipe base and have it returning to the tank base is unknown to me but, hey it works I guess!
The old drain hole is soldered in position and made of brass... so, I won't be re using that, but I have an old Ser 2 diff casing that I've already stolen the filler/level plug for the rear diff casing on SWIMBO's Ser 2 so I'll be using the drain plug and its housing for the base of the tank! More tomorrow eve! Seems I have a lot to do between now and the end of Oct when the first trip is scheduled!!

[stuee]

Oh, and where do I find my chassis number? Cheers all! :)

Chassis number is on the front right spring hanger (drivers side). Should be able to see it just in front of tyre I guess (my wheels off atm so cant remember). I was silly enough not to cover mine when it got galvanised so need to do some work making it clearer, but then also making it not look too dodgy. Its still legible, but only just.

[Sitec]

Will have to do some Tar removal.... What with the original coat and AJ's coat I could be there for a while!! Cheers!

[chazza]

I was silly enough not to cover mine when it got galvanised so need to do some work making it clearer, but then also making it not look too dodgy.

If you haven't painted it yet, wave a gas torch over the numbers with a very soft flame and then brush the numbers with a wire brush to remove the excess zinc.

I did the same thing with my S1 but didn't learn about this until after I had painted it :(

Cheers Charlie

[Sitec]

The new tank base ready to glue in!

[Sitec]

Well, I think I'll be making my new tank now then.... 😖. Even with the welder wound right down the solder has decided it no longer wants to stay in the join at the end of the tank!! Soooo, we'll be drawing up and making a new tank, and might have to do the battery rack and air tank on the left to match!! 👍

[DasLandRoverMan]

Should be interesting to see, something I need to do for mine but it'll probably be a wee while before I need to think about it.

You going for air brakes with the cummins?
I have a mate who put a 6B in his IIA FC and stuck the air system from the truck on it for a laugh. By **** it stops well.

[Sitec]

Well after the effort with the tank, I needed something completely different to get into!! So here's the first of 4... I know there's those who won't like them but with the final colour and additions they will work in well!! Colour is pretty well settled on now. It will eventually be white... Not sure which white... Toss up between the older late 90's chalky white, or a brighter white.... Thinking the chalky white like my old 130... This lends itself to satin black tanks, wheel centres, bumper, mirrors, wheel carriers etc.. Das... Curious about air assistance with the drum brakes... Not something I'd thought about until now!

[Sitec]

And here's a sketch of one of the new tanks... Thought about going a lot deeper but one of the 101's great assets is its ground clearance.. so I've only added a bit to the the original tanks height. I'm contemplating making both tanks 300mm shorter and locating the batteries beside them.. (towards the rear of the vehicle). Looking into one way valves so I'd fill to the right tank but the gauge and pick up would be on the left tank with a 13mm hose and valve linking them.... This would also be the drain point.... I ran this type of system on my last truck but the valve didn't work as well as it could... More to follow on this setup!

[Homestar]

That tank looks good. Just shy of 145 litres - a good size.:)

[Sitec]

Finally I have a clear weekend ahead to actually do some stuff!!! Collected the 6 wheels today from the shot blasters. Having had a go at paint stripping and wire brushing one of the rims I soon wised up. Even the commercial steam cleaner at work wouldn't shift it all (and that was also after painting some brake fluid on it!!)... So I was happy to pay a local farmer $140 to shot blast them. Gotta say, I'm very happy with the results (pictured). If and when I do the full strip down, he'll be doing the chassis too! Had more thoughts re the fuel tank scenario. Have settled on two tanks, one on each side. They'll match the shape of the one in the previous pic but will be approx 300mm shorter. The RH tank will have a 300mm x 500mm cylindrical air tank situated behind it (rear wheel end) for the air clutch, eventual front locker (if I can't find and make a Truetrac fit), exhaust brake and air horns. The LH tank wil also be approx 300mm shorter and have room for a pair of N70 batteries. Still not sure if the Cummins is 12 or 24 volt!! Either way, if not, a second battery is always useful. The tanks will be linked by a 3/4 fuel hose and a ball type one way valve. Filling will be from the RHS as normal and on level ground both tanks will fill together. The pick up and gauge will be in the LH tank, and as that fuel gets used fuel from the RH tank will migrate to the left (aided by cornering!!!). Just gotta find the suitable ball valve. Will post a drawing if anybody wants to view it. :)

[chazza]

The tanks will be linked by a 3/4 fuel hose and a ball type one way valve. Filling will be from the RHS as normal and on level ground both tanks will fill together. The pick up and gauge will be in the LH tank, and as that fuel gets used fuel from the RH tank will migrate to the left (aided by cornering!!!). Just gotta find the suitable ball valve.

Why do you need a ball valve? I presume for servicing; so that one tank can be isolated for removal; if that is the case any tap-type fuel valve would work,

Cheers Charlie

[Sitec]

The system will need a one way valve so that the fuel in the left tank can never return to the right tank, as I'll be running the gauge and pick up in the left tank. It used to leak back on my old 101, if it was parked on a slight slope down to the right..... then the thing wouldn't start!

[Sitec]

Well, the rims have had their first coat of primer, and will get the second before the day is done. Tyres are being fitted on Monday, then it'll be top coat silver. Have settled on silver as it will work on against a white vehicle with black features, but will also work in the short term with the current drab green. If they were white I think they'd stand out like dogs balls!!

[Sitec]

Here's a pic of the front door hinges that I've modified to take Defender mirrors. The bottom bolt will still go through the door, and the top bolt will be countersunk into the hinge from behind. Mirror gets fitted to hinge first, then the whole lot gets fitted to the door. No extra holes need drilling into the door then. :)

[stuee]

Here's a pic of the front door hinges that I've modified to take Defender mirrors. The bottom bolt will still go through the door, and the top bolt will be countersunk into the hinge from behind. Mirror gets fitted to hinge first, then the whole lot gets fitted to the door. No extra holes need drilling into the door then. :)

I've yet to really check the condition of my mirrors but any reason for going to defender units? Bigger mirrors?

One feature I really miss off my discovery is the heated mirrors. Meant you didn't need to go around wiping them before a drive on a cold morning. Would be cool to get heated mirrors on the 101 if changing them out.

[bobslandies]

I've yet to really check the condition of my mirrors but any reason for going to defender units? Bigger mirrors?

One feature I really miss off my discovery is the heated mirrors. Meant you didn't need to go around wiping them before a drive on a cold morning. Would be cool to get heated mirrors on the 101 if changing them out.

Should be warm with these;):

Auto Mirror Heater Pads, Auto Mirror Heater Pads Wholesale, Auto Mirror Heater Pads Manufacturing (http://www.autoveidrodeliai.com/heaterpads.html)

Bob

[101RRS]

I've yet to really check the condition of my mirrors but any reason for going to defender units?


The originals vibrate and are hard to see behind you - the defenders are stable and easy to use.

[Sitec]

Yup! As garrycol said the Defender setup is easier to use... They will also work well with my eventual colour scheme of white with black features. SWIMBO likes them too!!. Not only that, there was this freak storm here last night, and it blew the mirrors clean off one of Bojan's many Land Rovers and into the cab of my 101!! Whoops!! :D

While here, anyone know what this bracket is for?? It's under the left hand side of the tray just behind where Micks Jerry Can Holders were... :) sorry about pic quality.. It was dark!

[101RRS]

It is the back end of the jerry can holder - the carrier is a cradle that swings at the front and it clipped up at the back end.

Garry

[Sitec]

I've removed the Jerry Can Holder.. The hinge you talk about was mounted to a saddle type setup that bolted to the LH chassis rail... This bracket is bolted directly to one of the rear tub cross bars... is very dirty, and was not doing anything in relation to the holder... I'll be removing it in the next few days to make room for the LH tank, so I'll take a better shot of it then. Cheers tho.

[101RRS]

On mine the little bracket in the pic is the back end of the jerry holder on aussie 101s that only had one jerry - was yours the holder that held three jerries??

[Sitec]

Yes it was.. Three Jerrys facing out, with the hinge point bolted through the chassis and the latch bracket drilled thru the pressed alli bit below the lower side board... Three nice big holes I now have to try and fill.. Might be getting the alli mig out!!

[101RRS]

The bit is Part 398426 - Catch Plate. The curly bit is where the catch sits in the plate. Oh I need one of these jerry mounts if anyone has one.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/a812_12_zpsc2433fe0.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/Forum%20Posts%20Album/a812_12_zpsc2433fe0.jpg.html)

[Sitec]

Yup, I recon you are on the money there. I think that's it... The sprung jaw like thing (assuming its hidden behind the cross piece) must be where the filler cap of the Jerry Can goes... Well, I have that bit if you need it but sadly not the cradle! Quite why there's one on mine if it was just an Aussie thing...

[101RRS]

Quite why there's one on mine if it was just an Aussie thing...

Its not an Aussie thing the same jerry holder is used on some Brit 101s - have a look in the Parts Manual and you will find it.

When the winch is fitted, (and some Brit 101s had them) the three jerry can holders do not fit so the fore and aft single jerry holder was used.

I guess it was easier to just fit the same mounts to all 101s even if the single jerry was not going to be fitted. The front single jerry mount shoud still be there.

I am after the cradle etc - I still have the mounts on mine.

Garry

[lardy]

I can now follow up the idea that he was a Ranger in the Irish Military.
I doubt it, look at the British army records for regiments in Ireland during the occupation.
Ireland was not allowed its own army, but you did have British army regts based there during that period and loyalist from the north may have had volunteer units in the south.
As Orr is a mainly jock name I would look at your ancestor being a prodi volunteer from the north.
Especially as many Irish from the republic came this way in chains

.[/QUOTE]

[amazing]

mine had a holder for two jerry cans flat side by side.

fitted by army...looks a bit Heath Robinson though.

pics in gallery of mine in action you can see holder ( without cans) and the fuel cover flap.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1003.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/23368/title/photograph-5-/cat/1294)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1004.jpg

[Mick_Marsh]

mine had a holder for two jerry cans flat side by side.

fitted by army...looks a bit Heath Robinson though.

pics in gallery of mine in action you can see holder ( without cans) and the fuel cover flap.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1003.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/23368/title/photograph-5-/cat/1294)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1004.jpg
I've not seen one like that before. Do you know anything else about it?

[amazing]

mine was ex para
never had a winch
the jerry can tray had two diagonal creases ( just like ducting panels) to prevent flexing and basic angle iron frame. Hinged at the rear with a hasp on the front.

was fitted before release as was the fuel filler flappy cover (pics in gallery of other side)but hardly std have never seen another with this set up.

no loss of ground clearance this way

[Sitec]

Well, got into the shockers again today!! I tapped the lower front shocker mount with an M16 x 2mm thread as once cleaned out properly the holes are M14. The top holes on the chassis front and rear are M12, so they'll be getting the M14 treatment tomorrow!

Scratch that.. One of the holes at the rear is M12 and the other is M14.. Same at the front... Seems the chassis welding team had a different batch of tube per side!! Sooo, they will all be 14mm I.D very shortly and I'll have matching M16 x 40 10.9 bolts (that I have in stock from fitting loaders to tractors!) with flat and spring washer all round!! If you really wanted to get technical, you could tap one of the original split pin holes and put a locking grub screw in there too!! I don't think an M16 rattled up with the gun will come out tho!! :)

[Sitec]

I also took the rad out last night as at some point in its past the overflow pipe had become detached from the filler neck. Took it into work, Barossa Radiators collected it at 11am, fitted a new neck, cleaned, tested it, painted it and returned it to me at 2:30 all for $60!!! That to me is fantastic local service!! :) He also said that it'll be easy to make the rad a 4 core when the Cummins goes in, and if needs be he can make a new rad out of bits with the same outside dimensions but a 6 row core and bigger hose outlets!!

[DasLandRoverMan]

There's some impressive service.

[Sitec]

Luckily all my shockers are all good, but I was able to find the part numbers when I was cleaning they up. Might be of use to anyone who's trying to find/match with new!

Fronts:- NRC 1367 (second number found :-Q365M 5 75)

Rears:- NCR 1368 (second number found :-Q366M 3 75)

[DasLandRoverMan]

Useful numbers, both come up as No Longer Available though.

[Sitec]

As mentioned before, and confirmed today with a few emails to a very helpful guy at the SA Transport place, I will be needing reversing lights.. Would I be right in saying that the blanking plug just in front and to the vehicle left of the gear lever boot atop the gearbox is where a reversing light switch could be fitted, and if so, does a std RRC LT95 switch just screw in and work? Also wondering if a set of NAS side lights would be legal as reversing lights as I think these would be within the original look of the vehicle....?

[Homestar]

Yep, mine is screwed in there. I can't see why the NAS side lights wouldn't be legal - they would probably be better than the crap ones on the back of my L322...:D

[101RRS]

Sorry what are NAS sidelights.

The Aust Army 101s had a single white reversing light.

These are my reversing lights - just a standard small worklight and the lens has a family resemblance to the standard indicators and tail light lens.

Yes the switch does screw in just in front of the gear lever.

Garry

[Sitec]

Garry. These are NAS lights... which I believe to stand for North American Spec.. They are a newer version of the original military lights fitted to 101's, Ser 3's and early 90/110's. they are approx the same size as the original screw on lenses.

[101RRS]

Why not just go for the originals - they work fine, are freely available and relatively cheap.

Garry

[roobar_and_custard]

Hi Sitec,
Copy of ADR 1 from v1 of ADRs, which is the version applicable to the 101. The 101 is classed as "other vehicle" and not as a "forward control".
Not sure how you check luminosity, but there is no refernce here to ADR marking or ECE marking.
Latest ADRs accept ECE marking instead (E..).

Ian

[DasLandRoverMan]

Why not just go for the originals - they work fine, are freely available and relatively cheap.

Garry

The arguement in the UK is that they're cheaper, more easily available, and being plastic won't rot out like the originals.
They also look good on a 101.

You've all seen the photo before, but what the hell;

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/816.jpg

I suspect a clear light both sides would blend in well enough, although the rear spring hangers limit positioning stuff further inboard on the crossmember.

[Sitec]

Yeah, it was that photo that helped sway me into wanting them!! All of my 'originals' are pretty average in condition... The side/brake light globes are wedged in to work. I have 4 indicator lenses labeled 'rear', and I have the small glass side lights at the front which I don't like the look if under the larger indicator. If I'm required to fit reversing lights, then (if they are ADR compliant) I just as well change them all.... There is always people looking for 'originals' so no doubt they'll find a good home.. If I can work a way of having fog lights and reversing lights at the rear that match the indicators and tail lights I think it would look good. Ron's big clear rear lights look good, but I'm aiming to retain the original style with all my mods/upgrades.

[101RRS]

You will require white reversing lights. Aust 101s in mil service were required to have them. You will also need to have reflectors as well - those NAS ones do not look like they have reflectors in the lenses so seperate ones will be required.

Garry

[Sitec]

Shockers cleaned, checked, painted and refitted with new bushes! M16x40 10.9's all round now with a large flat washer and spring washer!

[Sitec]

Well, the wheels have been shot blasted, had two coats of decent Zinc Phosphate primer, had the tyres fitted and now have their top coat of Silver Enamel from Protec (304-6002)... What with the tyres and centers being black, the silver points to spraying the 101 that lovely "Candy Apple Red" that was mentioned before by Cooee!!!! Decisions decisions!!!

[DasLandRoverMan]

The only thing about red paint is how well it seems to fade, even in the wastelands of Scotland.
I remember my first 90 was like that, after t cutting and polishing twice I have up trying to keep it a consistent colour... Eventually swopped it for a Blue RRC.

I suppose results might vary depending on how you paint it though?
Still, if you're open to suggestions, how about something inspired by classic LeMans colours?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/772.jpg

I reckon if you did it right there would be some potential?

[DasLandRoverMan]

Ok, I was bored, and came up with a hugely detailed 'photoshop' to try the colours on a 101.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/768.jpg

Tell me you're not tempted?

[Sitec]

It looks ok actually... Blue has never been a colour for me tho.... It'll b red or white... Just can't decide!!!!

[cooee]

hi sitec:o
have good look at latest ford focus orange bronze I like this colour with black canvas that would so cool with black rims and orange hubs hope this helps
cheers cooee:D

[101RRS]

Another bloody pimp mobile.:wasntme:

[wrinklearthur]

At the next big Land Rover meet, just look for all the colours of the rainbow to find the 101's. :p
.

[Sitec]

Pimp mobile!!!!... Mmmmm... That focus colour is ok... I looked at Orange for a bit but its been done... Not only that... Working for a Kubota Dealership, how long would it be before it became a publicity vehicle!!!!

[Mick_Marsh]

At the next big Land Rover meet, just look for all the colours of the rainbow to find the 101's. :p
.
Rainbow colours!
That'd only find one. The rest will be hard to spot in the grass.

[Mick_Marsh]

Pimp mobile!!!!... Mmmmm... That focus colour is ok... I looked at Orange for a bit but its been done... Not only that... Working for a Kubota Dealership, how long would it be before it became a publicity vehicle!!!!
I'm thinking of painting one of mine blue.
Probably close to a navy blue.

[Sitec]

Well, today is the day I attacked the swivel seals and chrome balls, the right of which has a distinct lack of chrome!! I pulled the seal out of the left, and there was still oil in there.. Bonus!!! As for the right... No wonder the one shot grease I attempted to pour in at AJ's wouldn't stay in... For some reason there were two little steel spacer rings (a bit like those found on the rocker cover bolts on a TD5) that had been left on the studs, holding the seals about 5 mm off the seal face! The bottom two studs were ok but the nuts were stripped. Easy fix as they are M8 for future reference. The new seals don't have those spacer rings, so I'm assuming they shouldn't be there.... Swivel balls have had the wire brush, 400 grit paper, wipe with thinners, then spray with silver paint and flat sanded back... With new seals and one shot grease, they should stay dry enough for the impending inspection! We'll deal with that front axle at a later date! Any opinions on one shot grease??

[Homestar]

Any opinions on one shot grease??

You'll get quite a few I'm sure, but from my point of view, I have had one shot grease in the swivels of the RRC for 10 years without issue. My FIL was too tight to get the seals done back then, so just got one shot shoved in - been fine ever since.

I'm sure someone will pitch in with a horror story or why you shouldn't though...

[amazing]

let me be the first....not really...used grease in my 101 for 8 years 50k. no issues.

oddly the russion gaz 66 uses both oil and grease in its swivels.

[Sitec]

All back together, and its had one and a half tubes of one shot in each side. They're bigger swivel housings than Defender/Series/RR so have gone with 1.5 tubes. Any advance on that?? Finally going to get into tank building in this coming week!! :)

[Sitec]

Well, having done the shockers, swivels, tyres, and rad, it was deemed time for a decent road test. So, the system pressurised (and then some) within the first half km, the smoke haze got no better behind but the tapping is sooooo bad that you can't hear yourself in the cab!!! Once back in the yard 5 min later, the decision was made to rip the donk out, so here I am using what I can to get the engine out!!!!

[Sitec]

So, I'd allowed a few evenings to get the engine out as older things can be sometimes difficult... An hour later and here we are... Bell housing bolts loose, several valley/inlet manifold bolts loose.. Lots of hoses loose, so I'm mighty glad I've decided to pull it out. Love working on these things tho.... You can get to everything!!!!

[Sitec]

And with the valley gasket removed, I could see three 'issues' instantly.. Camshaft lobes pitted, rusty and excessively worn, valve stem seals on 6 and 8 non existent.. (Table spoon of oil sat atop each valve), and head gasket blown on No 8. One push rod is shiny where the gasses were escaping into the valley. There is a matching cleaner sprayed mark on the underside of the valley gasket... That explainers the 'chuffing' upon removing the oil filler cap when the engine was running! So, I think the words "may be a little tired" could be exchanged for "it's completely shagged"!!! Shiny spot is at the end of the red cable tie! :D

[cooee]

hi sitec:D
well done like crane to get it out just like me when back on our farm great gear motor stuffed ah soon pu another one must say rims and tyres look ace what about gunmetal colour happy travels
cheers cooee:)

[Sitec]

Yeah completely rooted. Just pulled the rocker covers off to find layers and layers of carbon and sludge build up. I have the 'loan' 3.9 which will be going in very shortly (tho I am tempted to email the guy down at Regency Park and test the water with the Cummins... Be easier to just get it all done at once!). I must ring AJ and find out exactly what was wrong with the 101's original engine as I have it on the floor here beside the one I've just removed. Heads are off it, and there is still the diagonal honing marks in the bores, along with a military rebuild plate. Heads both look fine and its all sludge free too!!! Base of the oil pump is missing (funnily enough) and the pump body is fairly scored.. Will find out more and report back!!! :)

[Mick_Marsh]

From what I remember, I think it had a big knock in a big end.

[Sitec]

Judging by the scoring in the pump that would make sense.. Crank and Rod out of the spare engine I have and I'd have a running original engine!!! Might pull the sump off tomorrow and investigate!

[DasLandRoverMan]

Sounds like a good little runner... In fact the sort of engine that'd be sold as a 'good low mileage example' in some parts of the country.
Still, knowing the bottom end is usually fairly robust on the V8 I'd be tempted to pull the sump on the other engine and see what's knocking.

Depending on how long it's been run with the knock you might find you'll get away with a set of big end shells?

As an aside, I've found -on a GS anyways- it's easier to pull engine and box as a complete assembly and split them on the floor. A bit easier to throw a complete assembly back in also.
Saying that my lifting assembly is a rather large lifting beam (9ft square internally) so doing a 101 engine and box is a question of lift and roll away.
Certainly beats trying to lift stuff out with a piddly little crane balanced on the tray.

[Sitec]

Well, there's V8's everywhere!! 2 x 3.5's, 1 x 3.9, and 1 x 4.8 that boogys!!! Anyway, sometime down the track, I'll make one good 3.5 out of the two using most of my 101's original engine. Then that and the box can sit quietly on the shelf in the shed should the Cummins not be ideal. Here's the 3.9 that now resembles a 3.5 and will shortly be in the 101. Have swapped the dizzy and clutch assy. Just a few other things to do then it'll be going back in. After the steam cleaner lifted some of the green of the original rocker covers, it revealed a sandy colour..... Any ideas?

[Sitec]

In and running!!!!! For a V8 that's sat for over a year, it burbled into life pretty well instantly! I had to swap the dissy's over as mine has points, so while it was out I spun the oil pump over with the drill, to make sure it had oil pressure the minute it started. Once I'd swapped the lazy starter out for my original it caught on one cylinder then sparked into life with not a tap or rattle to be heard! The 255's have helped with the gearing too.. Not sure that the speedo is accurate, as it was reading 70kph, and I'm damn sure we were doing more than that... I was pushing the car in front! I also have 1 x 4.7 ring and pinion now, so just waiting on the other. Can't see any reason why the V8 would struggle with the 4.7's... tho I might well be proved wrong soon! Power steering will be happening in the ne'er future, once its thru the pits @ Regency Park! Fuel tanks is the priority!

[Homestar]

Geez mate you don't stuff around. Great going.:)

I wouldn't trust the speedo as far as you could throw it. Take a GPS with you on the next run to get an idea where you are at.

[Sitec]

Yeah, plan to.. Funnily enough we've had two American Spec Massey Fergys come into work (new), and in the P.D I've had to fit brake lights, AU spec indicators and a speedo... We've found some GPS speedos. All they require is an IGN fed 12v supply. They stick to the top of your dash. If anyone is interested, I'll grab the details off the box tomorrow and add it as a thread...? Will try and borrow one for a night for 'test purposes'!! :D Taking the 101 into work tomorrow.... on the trade plate of course!!

[Homestar]

Yeah, would be interested in the GPS speedo details...

[DasLandRoverMan]

Me also. I suspect They'll be available in the UK?

Bet you're glad to have it running again?

[spongie]

Gauges, Custom Gauges, Tachometers, Speedometers, Shift Light, Pod (http://www.Speedhut.com) make some cool Speedos and other gauges, lots of $$$ but completely individual to your vehicle, and they are electronic so you can fit a Speedo sensor and programme the gauge for any gearing. Some of the ones they do are GPS too

[Sitec]

Finally got into making the fuel tanks. End plates were cut yesterday, the sheet collected. I had that cropped up to the right length, which made folding it easier this morning... Here's the RH tank, along with an air tank of a Hino FF.. Dia of 290, and length overall of 480 means it lends itself to being sat with the primary tank. You can just see in the background the shaped plates that will hold the air tank to the primary tank.

[Sitec]

And here's a shot of both tanks laid out roughly as they will be. Both tanks match, and have ended up at 690mm long, 490mm wide, and 290mm deep. The secondary tank will have the pick up, returns, a second smaller pick up for a night heater (later planned fitment), and room behind for a pair of batteries, which gets them out of the cab!

[spongie]

Can you ship 2 of them back to the UK? Including air tank? Lol

[Mick_Marsh]

We'll swap.
Send a couple of stainless steel tanks out.

[spongie]

Didn't think we could get them over here any more????.

[Sitec]

Well, after getting everything done that 'had' to be done done, I got into tank welding for all of half an hour... First I ran out of wire, and then gas!!! In the end I gave up for this weekend!!
Anyway, here's a pic of the one way valve I've settled on to link the tanks. It's a $15 one way water valve. It's brass, and the seals are fibre washers so no issues with petrol or diesel there. It just has a simple swinging brass flap that sits on a machined face. Sat on the bench, it will happily hold brake clean, which is as thin as petrol and a lot thinner than diesel... The mistake I made with my last attempt at this was not mounting the valve vertically. On the previous 101, the valve was nearly horizontal and both tank inlet/outlets were at the bottom.. This time, the RH tank outlet will be at the bottom rear LH corner. There will be a shut off tap just in case of issues, and the hose will run along the x member that sits behind the handbrake drum. It'll then go thru the vertically mounted one way valve and into the rear RH side of the left tank about half way up the tank. I'm using 25mm fittings, so when filling from a normal pump, the LH tank should fill fairly quickly.... or at least that's the plan!! Fuel will happily flow to the left under normal driving, but should struggle to get back especially as the outlet in the left tank will be approx 140mm from the bottom! Still thinking about how I'm going to incorporate Mick's idea of a flap on the RH tank inlet/filler neck to stop fuel surging out under heavy braking or a steep decent..

[Sitec]

Here's the first of my two tanks (RH). All that's required now is the air tank fitment at the rear of it (back wheel end), and the front angle mount for the chassis and it can be tested. Final sizes are 690mm long, 290m deep, and 490mm wide. There will be two!!

[Sitec]

Here's a pic of the baffle setup in the LH tank. This baffle is 180mm tall and 230 out from the back of the tank. This is where the fuel pick up line will be situated. There will be a small series of holes at the back of the baffle to let the fuel in, but will be seam welded all the way around the base so it retains plenty of fuel for those steep descents... Facing downhill at 40deg decline should still have the pickup pipe submerged in 100mm of fuel. How often I'll be on that sort of angle with a Cummins in the nose remains to be seen... It
L take more than a pair of rear wheels and a hydraulic winch to keep the rear on the ground!! :D

[Sitec]

Well, its been a busy week at work, so little has been done, but I got back into it yesterday, and have welded up the second tank, complete with pick up compartment and inlet. I managed to fold the battery tray section which will become part of the tank shortly. Here's a pic of the tank lid from what will be the inside.. The sender, night heater supply and rtn lines all have threaded captive 3mm plates to keep it flat, and the pickup is also removable. I've gone for a larger than STD Land Rover pick up in prep for the Cummins. More to follow later today!

[Mick_Marsh]

Didn't think we could get them over here any more????.
Either did I but apparently we're both wrong.

[Sitec]

Here's the tank welded up, and the battery tray nearly completed.. Just the lid and mounts to make now!!!

[Sitec]

And here is the current location of my engine!!! It's just sailed out of Freo bound for Adelaide!!! So, guessing I'll see it this coming week!!

[spongie]

Here's the tank welded up, and the battery tray nearly completed.. Just the lid and mounts to make now!!!


Yep!!!! I'm liking that.

[Sitec]

Yep!!!! I'm liking that.


I'll get a decent pic of it once done... Seemed logical to me to get the batteries out of the cab and down low to help the center of gravity. Welded the air tank to the RH tank this eve... Should work out quite well when done! Cheers!:)

[bobslandies]

Here's the tank welded up, and the battery tray nearly completed.. Just the lid and mounts to make now!!!

Hi Simon,

Your tanks look good, particularly the pickup area cell.

When we used to make Series replacement tanks using a 3mm base and fabricating upwards from that in 2mm we would run three parallel 19mm angles V down lengthways and chamfered on the ends (one close to each outer edge and the third in the centre) on the baseplate.

The vehicle could then effectively slide on the tank bases (level with the bottom of the chassis) and the angle pieces added a great deal to the strength of the base.

Is it too late to do this now?

Bob

[Sitec]

Hi Simon,

Your tanks look good, particularly the pickup area cell.

When we used to make Series replacement tanks using a 3mm base and fabricating upwards from that in 2mm we would run three parallel 19mm angles V down lengthways and chamfered on the ends (one close to each outer edge and the third in the centre) on the baseplate.

The vehicle could then effectively slide on the tank bases (level with the bottom of the chassis) and the angle pieces added a great deal to the strength of the base.

Is it too late to do this now?

Bob

No, prob not, and its a good idea too! It would work well on the LH tank as the base of the battery box is flush with the base of the tank.. Will have a look tomorrow to see if it would work on the RH Air Tank side. Did you have drain holes in the angle, as I'm guessing they'd be a bit of a water trap...?

[bobslandies]

No, prob not, and its a good idea too! It would work well on the LH tank as the base of the battery box is flush with the base of the tank.. Will have a look tomorrow to see if it would work on the RH Air Tank side. Did you have drain holes in the angle, as I'm guessing they'd be a bit of a water trap...?

No, didn't have any weaknesses in the length of the angles, just offset stitch welded every few inches and chamfered the ends (probably should have said open-ended). That way you can get a lot of paint inside and can hose them out if any mud gets in. I think that if a suitable duragal angle was available today I would use it and have the added protection of the plating. Used 3M tank sealant inside and Rust Guard paint on the outside.

Bob

[Sitec]

RH tank lifted into place for the first time.... It's easier to have the tank in the right place and pinned at the front and then work out where the rear hanger has to be. Once that's all made, I'll finish off and fit the air tank cover to match the LH Battery cover and its then nearly time for some paint! :)

[Offender90]

Looking good Simon.

Coming together well - you'll have it on the road in no time.

[Sitec]

Cheers! Yeah, getting there slowly!! Got some steps coming from the UK finally. RH tank now finished with mounts and air tank cover. Left hand rear mount made and fitted to chassis. Mods to front LH tank outrigger started. Making it match the RH outrigger. There's a sheet of 3mm sat at work to make the bumper, and some nice thick wall tube ready for the two rear swing out wheel carriers! The Cummins is sat on the dock in Adelaide awaiting clearance!! All go. Just want to get it on the road now as summer is fast approaching and me thinks a ragtop 101 is the ideal summer transport! :D

[DasLandRoverMan]

That's not bad service with the 6BT. Question is how long will you run it with the V8 before the itch to pull it in favour of the diseasel becomes to much?

Or will the whip be cracked and the wife's IIA have to be finished first?

I'd love to be out and on with mine, but as the local weather system seems to have skipped autum and gone straight to howling gales and sideways rain it Ian going to happen today...

[Sitec]

Not long!!! That's the trouble.. I hear the motor working in this and I want it in mine now!!! http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DxKFu_wb0Gg

Especially when he plants it and the turbo sound echoes thru the cab! Plan is to get mine over the pits, then do one beach run in Nov in mine.. Prob try and catch up with the guy I bought it of, then get SWIMBO's on the road so I have a spare vehicle to use, then start the swap.. Plan to have it diesel powered for Melrose next yr!!

[101RRS]

So have you got engineering all lined up for the engine and gearbox etc.

Without an engineer all sorted who basically agrees with what you want to do you will have major issues getting it all passed - particularly in time for summer.

garry

[Sitec]

Working on that, but the few conversations I've had with people down at Regency Park seemed positive. I want to get it on the road first then get my head round that bit! :)

[101RRS]

I want to get it on the road first then get my head round that bit! :)

Engineers tend not to like approving modifications after the event so I would be finding one now and getting their "in principle" agreement before you start.

Garry

[Sitec]

Yeah. Getting it on the road as STD V8, then while down at Regency Park was going to bring the subject up... Until I have the vehicle on the road as a standard V8 GS I can't do much modifying. Once they know me and the vehicle then I'll start making in roads to the diesel conversion. I'm assuming I'll find an 'engineer' there..

[101RRS]

Sorry - thought you wanted the diesel in before summer.

What is Regency Park?

[Offender90]

What is Regency Park?

It's a suburb in Adelaide... :angel:


... where the Department of Planning, Transport and Infrastructure have their main vehicle inspection centre. :D

[roobar_and_custard]

The diesel must be getting close... Looking forward to seeing some pics of the new aquisition.
Ian

[Sitec]

It is indeed, it sailed in yesterday on a boat from Singapore having been via Melbourne.. Was supposed to be here last week, but missed its change in Singapore! :)

[wrinklearthur]

PM sent about transfer box.
.

[Sitec]

:D Well, that heading will have the rivet counters worried! All good.. Minor mods only! The left hand chassis out rigger behind the front wheel now looks just like the RH one but mirrored! It'll carry the new tank nicely!! They both now have captive M10 nuts now... It'll make fitting much easier!

[Sitec]

And a rear mount to match!

[DasLandRoverMan]

Very nice.

If this was pirate4x4 you'd have a load of yanks creaming themselves over your pretty welding.
Got the tanks in yet?

[stuee]

Captive nuts is a great idea. I lost count of the amount of expletives that exited my mouth trying to get those buggers in.

[spongie]

Love it Mate. Are you using standard filler routing On main tank?

[Homestar]

Captive nuts? On a Land Rover? Now you've gone to far....:D:Rolling:

Love it!

[Sitec]

Love it Mate. Are you using standard filler routing On main tank?

Yup, using standard filler, its there and works well... I'm trying to avoid modifying any of the original vehicle.. Everything I add can be removed.. Left tank is roughly in place, just the rear mount to fabricate tomorrow then they'll both get a coat of primer. Would have taken a pic tonight but ran out of decent light in the shed and also got distracted by beer.. Getting those inner tank bolts out was a pain! Plenty of never cease when the new bolts go in. Once the tanks are done, it'll be time to finish off all the 'little' things then have attempt 1 at a roadworthy cert. once that's done it'll be rear swing away wheel carriers, 4.7:1's, quad light bumper and 'the diesel'....:)

[spongie]

I'm doing different with my filler. My bottom side gates are going to be lockers and the fuel filler will be directly into the Tank through one of the two access holes in the floor. The space left by the old Tank filler will serve as a battery charge point/jumper point using Anderson plugs.

Will be interested in seeing any ideas you have On the swing away carrier as that's on my to do list.

[Sitec]

Here's the RH tank complete with mountings to suit the vehicles original mounts. I've shaped a cover for the air tank, so it matches the left tank.

[Sitec]

Here's a pic of the left tank in place, along with the battery cover. Just the rear tank mount to make, then they'll get a coat of primer this avo! Each time I look at the left side of 'Mick' the three holes where that Jerry Can Holder was annoy the hell out of me!! Will get to filling/welding them in the not too distant future!!

[DasLandRoverMan]

the fuel filler will be directly into the Tank through one of the two access holes in the floor.


Great idea until you've got the back full of stuff and need to fill it?
Depending on where the batteries are going I'd stick the jump point on the other side and keep the filler in the standard place.

Or if you insist on moving it then a filler neck out the back and have a fill point in the triangular panel in front of the rear wheel.

[Mick_Marsh]

Great idea until you've got the back full of stuff and need to fill it?
Depending on where the batteries are going I'd stick the jump point on the other side and keep the filler in the standard place.

Or if you insist on moving it then a filler neck out the back and have a fill point in the triangular panel in front of the rear wheel.I think spongie was suggesting a false floor above the bottom sides. You would be able to load up the back and still have access to the filler.
That is the impression I got.

[Sitec]

Yup, got the same impression. Tanks got primed tonight!

[DasLandRoverMan]

Having chatted to him about it on facesbook it is something like that.

I claim being half asleep as I was only on in first coffee of the morning...

[roobar_and_custard]

Hi Sitec - that is one serious looking set of tanks. Very impressive. Did you work out the final volume yet?
Ian

[Sitec]

Not yet, but I will when I fill them for the first time in the next few weeks! Each tank is 690mm long, 490mm wide and 290mm tall for those who are good at maths.. The tapers are 100mm on the 45deg flat though that will only cost me a few litres each side... :)

[Homestar]

Not including the thickness of the steel or any baffles, pickup, fuel pump, etc them the capacity of each tank is has a theoretical capacity of around 94.5 litres. Say 90 to be realistic, so 180 all up - that's what I need on mine.:D

Top job.

[DasLandRoverMan]

That's a fair capacity. £260 to fill with diesel at UK prices though. That's scarey!!!

[Homestar]

That's a fair capacity. £260 to fill with diesel at UK prices though. That's scarey!!!

About $260 or so over here, but decent range with a deisel i suppose. If I had those tanks on my petrol version, I'd still be filling up before I got to 700KM...;)

The trip I'm heading on next week in mine will swallow the best part of 800 litres I would think by the time I get home.

I didn't buy it for its economy though...:D

[Sitec]

About $260 or so over here, but decent range with a deisel i suppose.......

I didn't buy it for its economy though...:D


Not with my right foot!!

Me neither... To be different yet still own a Land Rover! :)
Re the 180 litres... If I can get between 1000 and 1200 kms on that I'll be happy, especially as half of it will be veg oil!

[DasLandRoverMan]

About $260 or so over here,

£154 in Sterling. That's depressing.

[roobar_and_custard]

Fuel may be cheaper, but Land Rover parts aren't.
I wonder if we should send you fuel and you send us parts...
Ian.

[roobar_and_custard]

We could send Sitec over in his fuel tanker and then fill the back of his 101 with parts for the return trip...

[Mick_Marsh]

It will need a snorkel.

[Sitec]

A very long one!!! With a tee piece so I can breath too!! :D

[Sitec]

Would you believe it!!!!!! Grrrrrrrrrrr!!!! Having just purchased a set of tidy wheel steps out of the UK, having sent out the feelers on 'other' forums, what turns up today for sale???? These!!!! One of the sets of wheel steps of my old 101!!!!! The chances of that happening?????? Think I should buy them for the planned trailer!!???

[Homestar]

Million to one... :D

[cooee]

hi sitec
I thought they look like what you made you should buy them for next project :D
cheers cooee:)

[DasLandRoverMan]

For the money, why not?

[Offender90]

Should ask the seller if he's interested in selling the non standard "bumper" as well! ;)

[Sitec]

Ha! Not my old truck.. The steps came with his 101 in a 'box of spares'.. Funny thing is he has 5 stud axles on his 101 so they wouldn't have fitted anyway! Fuel tanks going on mine this weekend, then its just the reverse light to hook up and wipers to get working and I might have my first attempt at the pits!! :D

[Sitec]

Finally got back to 'Mick'! The RH tank is on!! Here's a pic. Opinions please!:)

[Sitec]

And from the rear, with the air tank discretely hidden behind a guard. Left tank next then the pits!! :o

[cooee]

hi sitec :)
looks cool very do like way your outer shield covers tank and air tank
great job also wheel steps great job you should be very proud of your work:D
cheers cooee

[amazing]

noticed on one pic a patch on the triangular section above front wheel arch ...mine had same fault..when I got mine that whole section was full of wet sand..I actually just made a neat hole so the water and junk could drain out. was only on the filler side too so may be a result of sparewheel flap in tilt letting in a bit extra water and dust.

tanks look great but you may need an end piece on the rear ( front protected by mud flap) the rear wheels will kick mud up forward too and will fill the void around the tank.

[Sitec]

Good pick up re patch... I have a feeling I'm going to have to do something there anyway.. as the guys down at SA roads will prob pick on that as its the section which holds the roll cage etc....
As for the splash guard.. You must have read my mind. I plan to have a piece of 3mm bolted in and hanging down from the wheel side of that tank rear xmember that sits just below the line of the tank. I also plan to make a new 3mm one at the front of the tank which will carry the mudflaps, but also be linked to the rear one by a piece of thick wall 50mm tube that should sit somewhere along where the lower 45deg cut out is on the tank. I'll do the same both sides, and they should act as tank guards/rock sliders! That's the plan. Road worthy first tho!! :)

[DasLandRoverMan]

I could be wrong, but the piece with the patch is Ally, and the bits that are 'load bearing' all tie to the steel B pillar section of the cab.
It does seem to be a common thing with them though, cracks in the panel being covered over with a small ally plate. I've seen a few like that.

Tanks look pretty smart though, very well crafted.

Has the Cummins landed yet?

[Sitec]

Yup, the patch is in the alli, but there is a small hole in the steel section between the two M8 bolts that hold the arch on. It's swollen so will need attention.

[roobar_and_custard]

Did you get it cleared throgh customs in the end and safely back home?

When you get a chance, post some pictures...

[Sitec]

Alas no, I returned with an empty truck! Arrived at 11 am, loaded by half 11, 'just a paperwork glitch to sort'.... Half 5 yesterday arvo I left!!! they have to re lodge the customs side of things because a Numpty at the freight handling office in Brisbane entered it wrong. Takes 24hrs to be re done... They are delivering it today... So say, and then I'm going to open a can of whoop arse on the clown in Brizy!
All that said tho, it looks like it'll fit quite well! The turbo is a lot closer to the block than I'd originally thought. The PTO should clear the chassis, and the ZF box has a nice flat mounting point to hopefully take the LT 230. So, when its home there will b several pics!

[DasLandRoverMan]

Should work fairly well for you, here's one that been done before (it's the one in the purple 90).

http://49.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/nrs91/Land%20Rover%2090%20Cummins%206BT%20Conversion/WP_000179.jpg.html?o=44

[Sitec]

God I hate photo bucket! Never works!! If its the one I'm thinkin it is, its Nick Steggel's truck, and yeah it has worked quite well. It's him that started me on the 6bt hunt!! We're now friends on Bookface and regularly comment on the various Cummins Mods... He's got bigger injectors, a different turbo and some pump mods now.... Think its beyond the destructive stage!!! I'll have pics of mine at the weekend and hopefully will have it running on the workshop floor! It finally cleared customs for the second time this avo and they're delivering it tomorrow!! Look out! :D

[Homestar]

Not to put ideas in your head, but the current generation of the 6B in a marine application is seeing better than 500HP...:angel:

Keeping that cool out of the water would be a big ask though...:D

[Sitec]

Yeah... We were pulling 350 reliably out of them in the tractors.... Coupled to an Allison auto, the axles might survive (for a little while), but length of the box was an issue, and I think the LT230 would just explode! :D If I can run just over 200hp reliably, I'll be happy.....

[Mick_Marsh]

Should work fairly well for you, here's one that been done before (it's the one in the purple 90).

http://49.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/nrs91/Land%20Rover%2090%20Cummins%206BT%20Conversion/WP_000179.jpg.html?o=44
Link doesn't work.

[spongie]

you remotely linking to the LT230?

[Sitec]

Sort of..... Here's a pic of the previously mentioned 'Purple Ninety'.. He's used the same ZF box as I'll be using, and has made up a simple plate conversion with interlinking shaft.....

[Sitec]

And this is the shaft that he made.... using the old prop flange out of the ZF box, and part of the input shaft from a LR Gearbox.... Not sure how strong this bit will be.. Still working on that. I'm thinking that I'll get the LT 230 input gear broached to suit the splines on the ZF...

[DasLandRoverMan]

It would allow it to be a bit shorter, but would the ZF output go far enough into the LT230?

You'd be right with guessing where the picture came from, it is indeed Nicks one. I've chatted about it in the past, but I'm not one to go out of my way to find friends of facesbook so I'm not his friend on there.

Apologies for the dead link, photobucket is a pain in safari on an iphone, the link worked for me, but obviously desktop stuff isn't so keen?

I suspect the LT230 and axles will cope fine with 200bhp or so through it. There's a few yanks on pirate 4x4 with a lot of love for them (having given them a lot of abuse to test the theory) and even reckon their better than Atlas transfer boxes (the darling of the Modified US off road scene) which is high praise indeed.

[Sitec]

It would allow it to be a bit shorter, but would the ZF output go far enough into the LT230?

I suspect the LT230 and axles will cope fine with 200bhp or so through it. There's a few yanks on pirate 4x4 with a lot of love for them (having given them a lot of abuse to test the theory) and even reckon their better than Atlas transfer boxes (the darling of the Modified US off road scene) which is high praise indeed.

That's good to know re the LT 230. As for getting the transfer case close enough to the box... Not sure until I have it all sat on the floor in the workshop. All I know is that rear prop is going to be short!! :D

[Sitec]

Finally... I have a large Diesel in my shed!!!! A quick run around with the tape and it looks like it will fit!!! The only issues form what I can see is the sump, which will have to be reversed, and poss the compressor clearance against the LH chassis rail. More to follow once I have it running on the floor!

[101RRS]

Finally... I have a large Diesel in my shed!!!! A quick run around with the tape and it looks like it will fit!!!

I thought you had done this before :) - it did fit before I assume :D.

[Offender90]

Looking good Simon,

That turbo looks massive compared to what we run on 4BD1s.

[DasLandRoverMan]

With a Nissan FD6 on an LT95...

Lengthening the oil pickup pipe is more of a pain than turning the sump, but I have no doubt a man of your abiliity will get it sorted quickly.
From what I remember my mate with the Cummins powered IIA FC didn't have a problem getting it between the rails, I know it's slightly different, but the width restriction is still there...

Can we expect videos later?

[Sitec]

Yup Das! You're on the money on both counts.. The last donk was indeed a Nissan Fd6. (5.7lt 6pot against the LT95). It was smaller in body, and didn't have a compressor, turbo etc hung off it..
Re the Cummins, yes. Hopefully if it uploads, there will be a vid tomorrow. Today was spent removing the un necessary bits, fan, bracketry etc. I lifted each rocker cover to check all is good underneath. It was. Light moisture due to shipping and several washings! Turbo and inlet manifold was checked, and then I turned my attentions to the sump... There was a dent that I'm assuming some numpty (probably the same one who screwed the customs paperwork up) made with a forklift as it was fresh. Sump removed. Pick up checked. All looks very clean... A quick refit, and then down to the local CNH dealer in Lyndoch for a fuel and oil filter. New filters on and fuel bled. A quick rig up of the batteries, fuel shut off, starter and oil light wires, and it was a quick crank to check all was ok. A piece of timber was to hand at this point ready to sit atop the turbo if it decided to take off!! It didn't. To our surprise we turned the fuel on and touched the start wire and it fired instantly and settled down to a nice 6 pot purr! Very happy. It sound crisp and is very responsive, and Bojan, that dustbin of a turbo is as big as it looks, and it sounds awesome!!!!! 3 or 4" straight thru me thinks!!! Roll on tomorrow. Temporary rad fit up so I can run it more than 30 sec! I'll take a vid then! :)

[Sitec]

I thought you had done this before :) - it did fit before I assume :D.

There's something exciting about taking a gamble with an even bigger engine and box!! As long as the fan is only 20mm off the rad, and I get my conversion plate to the LT slim the rear prop should still be a sensible length!!! 4/500mm:D

[chazza]

...my conversion plate to the LT slim the rear prop should still be a sensible length!!! 4/500mm:D

Make sure that the conversion plate, however you do it, is dowelled to either the gearbox, or the transfer box. If you rely on the fasteners to hold it in alignment, it won't be accurate enough and you will have shaft troubles. The same applies to the engine to gearbox junction.

The photo you posted earlier of the spaced conversion plate, didn't fill me with confidence but it would still work as long as it was dowelled,

Cheers Charlie

[Sitec]

Yup, defo something that'd be happening. I'd planned to use M12 CSK bolts with Allen key heads to bolt the plate to the box, and then mimic the rear of an LT 77/R380 on the new plate. From what I can see, the shaft they've had made slides onto the ZF splines and is then held in place by the transfer case.... Another fella in the UK has done the same to his 110, and here's his conversion shaft.. Still worries me how this shaft will handle 200+ hp and 500nm of torque...:(

[Sitec]

Well, if it works, here it is... The 6Bt running. Red light is oil, and white is charge. :)

[bobslandies]

Yup, defo something that'd be happening. I'd planned to use M12 CSK bolts with Allen key heads to bolt the plate to the box, and then mimic the rear of an LT 77/R380 on the new plate. From what I can see, the shaft they've had made slides onto the ZF splines and is then held in place by the transfer case.... Another fella in the UK has done the same to his 110, and here's his conversion shaft.. Still worries me how this shaft will handle 200+ hp and 500nm of torque...:(

Hi Simon,

If it's welded it will break. The problem it the side loading on the rear output gear (or input gear to the transfer case).

I once used a piece of a sliding female yoke spline from a Ford C6 Auto to mate a New Process 435 4-speed truck gearbox (same spline) to a Series transfer case. This tube was welded to a precision made Series rear mainshaft input section for the transfer case. Others did the same with Ford C4 Autos to Series transfer cases - all broke.

We had to make the C4s complete auto - transfer case shafts and have them heat treated and straightened. In the NP435s we replaced the mainshaft with one from an International that had an SAE 10 spline output and manufactured in R4 and Q5 (IIRC) internally splined SAE 10 for the box and Land Rover Series for the transfer case. We then supported the rear of the shaft with a new massive parallel roller bearing in a new support housing - losing any rear PTO output. The plan was nothing we made would ever break! - a good plan:cool:

Bob

[chazza]

Good info. Bob! :D

Wagoo told me by email, that he used an NP box on several Series Rovers; his method is to grind or turn (I can't remember which) the gearbox's output splines to a slightly smaller diameter and enlarge the internal diameter of the gear in the transfer case. This allowed him to run very powerful engines, such as big displacement V8 engines, without ever breaking the boxes,

Cheers Charlie

[bobslandies]

Good info. Bob! :D

Wagoo told me by email, that he used an NP box on several Series Rovers; his method is to grind or turn (I can't remember which) the gearbox's output splines to a slightly smaller diameter and enlarge the internal diameter of the gear in the transfer case. This allowed him to run very powerful engines, such as big displacement V8 engines, without ever breaking the boxes,

Cheers Charlie

Hi Charlie,

Yes, you can close-couple the NP445 and 435 (and Turner, Borg-Warner, etc) as Bill did with an adapter plate (someone is mentioned on Teri-Anne's website doing them in the US) but I think we measured it up and the output flange was very close to the bellhousing and needed machining for clearance. Did not want to use a smaller diameter front tailshaft either. So we made an adapter 140mm long and supported that with the gearbox/transfer case crossmember so that the whole torque was not on the alloy LR transfer case attachment. That was with a 302 Windsor at over 250HP, mate has a 351 Windsor that used to make 400HP - he had to tone it down for his wife to drive.

Bob

[DasLandRoverMan]

The way I understand it the two pieces of the shaft are machined to an interference fit, pressed together, then welded and cleaned up on the lathe to suit.



Well, if it works, here it is... The 6Bt running. Red light is oil, and white is charge. :)

Nice, that'll be the most powerful sledge in SA.
Too bad you don't get much snow...

[Sitec]

That's what I was originally thinking... But Chazza and bobslandies have got me thinking.... Prob going to pull the back of the box off and see what is in there, with ref to getting the LR transfer case input gear broached to suit the ZF S5-42 output shaft... or something along those lines! :)

[goingbush]

Well, if it works, here it is... The 6Bt running. Red light is oil, and white is charge. :)

what a beast, sounds fantastic !
its going to be one Manly 101 !!

[wrinklearthur]

Yup, defo something that'd be happening. I'd planned to use M12 CSK bolts with Allen key heads to bolt the plate to the box, and then mimic the rear of an LT 77/R380 on the new plate. From what I can see, the shaft they've had made slides onto the ZF splines and is then held in place by the transfer case.... Another fella in the UK has done the same to his 110, and here's his conversion shaft.. Still worries me how this shaft will handle 200+ hp and 500nm of torque...:(

The Jack shaft that goes with the 1:1003 Transfer box is hollow, as a bolt is fitted into the end of the output shaft on the Torqueflite 727, I have included the bolt with the Jack shaft and adapter housing. The Jack shaft looks to be a similar length to the pictured one.

I also solved my hang up with the hand brake actuator mechanism, so happy now to pass that on as well, along with the gear change parts.

As for the torque the shafts can stand, compare it's size with the shaft on a 200 HP, 1000 RPM, tractor PTO, however those tractor shafts do sometimes snap under load as you probably already know.

Now who is doing a car trip to Tassie that can act as a courier to bring a transfer box back with them?
But I think AULRO protocol dictates that this request be formally put in the courier section.
.

[Ancient Mariner]

Been following this shaft discussion with interest and to say if it is welded it will break is crap :confused:.A LT230 transfer case is completely different to a series in that the gear is fully supported and the shaft can be designed as fully floating If properly done it can still break but it won`t be because of the weld
Just my 2 cents worth;)

AM

[DasLandRoverMan]

The man makes a good point, not something that had registered with me either.

I don't think the ones that have been done are babied by any means, so if they were going to present a problem then it's likely have happened by now?

Either that or 'Rakeway Engineering' offer an LT230 input shaft with a drive flange machined into it to allow conversion to remote operation.
Might make length an issue though?

Actually, they do a lot of shiney bits for the LT230. Clicky (http://www.rakeway.co.uk/page12.html)

[spongie]

The shortened output shaft is something that tempts me for my 101s lt230

[Sitec]

They've got some nice stuff.... I'm wondering if that input shaft (pictured) uses the input shaft that's hopefully coming with the 'Tazzie Transfer Case'...

[Sitec]

66692And to give you all an idea, here's what I will be starting with... The original prop flange will be coming off... Once I work out what's behind that back cover, that might be coming off too.... If not, Ill be modifying that prop flange into a shaft pictured earlier like Nick and Tim did in their Cummins powered Defenders... That 4 bolt face lends itself to becoming a plate mount or something!! :D That nice big hydraulic pump will drive a big rear under floor mounted hydraulic winch nicely!!! :)

[Ancient Mariner]

Pic of my Lt230 -Isuzu shaft

AM

[chazza]

Nice work AM! Did you make it yourself?

Cheers Charlie

[Sitec]

Well, with wheels, mirrors, tanks, shockers, brakes, swivel seals, reversing lights, wipers, washers, heater, and a running V8 we are getting near to the dreaded visit to the pits. Just a rego plate holder and light and I think we are good to go!! Starting to look half reasonable now!! Once done it'll be 4.7:1 diffs, tow bar and bumper!! :D