What did you do on your Defender today ? (well, this week anyway)

[Zeros]

Hi Carpdvl,

Mind telling me what the wheels are on the vehicle.

I have a set of Sawtooth's and am thinking of swapping out for a set of black steel wheels (Sunraysia's etc).

Cheers,

Andrew

Go for classic HD wolf rims.

146531

[4xsama]

Go for classic HD wolf rims.

146531

They're pretty cool. I'm after something with a bit more dish but as I'm running Conti AT's I might not be able to. I'd like a set of muddies but the noise/drive isn't worth it.

[Zeros]

They're pretty cool. I'm after something with a bit more dish but as I'm running Conti AT's I might not be able to. I'd like a set of muddies but the noise/drive isn't worth it.

My tyres are 235/85R16. What size are your conti’s?

[4xsama]

My tyres are 235/85R16. What size are your conti’s?

Tyres are standard as it came from the dealer. I'd have to check but the 235/85R16 sounds about right.

[Zeros]

Tyres are standard as it came from the dealer. I'd have to check but the 235/85R16 sounds about right.

Perfect on wolf rims.

[carpdvl]

Hi Carpdvl,

Mind telling me what the wheels are on the vehicle.

I have a set of Sawtooth's and am thinking of swapping out for a set of black steel wheels (Sunraysia's etc).

Cheers,

AndrewHey Andrew,

They're just dynamic round hole - 16x8 -25 offset. I think you can get a -13 or even 0 offset if you need something that doesn't stick out as much.

Have 285 75 16s on them and they stick out a little too much to be what I'd call officer friendly but haven't had any issues yet. You can see the poke somewhat in the pic. Have some extended arches at the ready just in case!

Cheers

Gushttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181204/9e52a73374562fa894fccc01488ce809.jpg

[ezyrama]

Made up a padded top for the cubby box. I'll probably pull it off again and get the corners stitched up to make it look like, "a flash one hey"
(Gratuitous AULRO Stubby holder in the shot[smilebigeye])
Cheers Ian

[4xsama]

Hey Andrew,

They're just dynamic round hole - 16x8 -25 offset. I think you can get a -13 or even 0 offset if you need something that doesn't stick out as much.

Have 285 75 16s on them and they stick out a little too much to be what I'd call officer friendly but haven't had any issues yet. You can see the poke somewhat in the pic. Have some extended arches at the ready just in case!

Cheers

Gushttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181204/9e52a73374562fa894fccc01488ce809.jpg

Thanks Gus. They look good. The lesser offset would be good. I want to fill in the arches but not attract the Rozzers. Are they from the same manufactures as Sunraysia's?

Andrew

[carpdvl]

Thanks Gus. They look good. The lesser offset would be good. I want to fill in the arches but not attract the Rozzers. Are they from the same manufactures as Sunraysia's?

AndrewYeah mate. Dynamic is the brand (think you can get similar from King also though and maybe one other). Any decent tire shop should be able to order them in.

Probably want 0 offset then. From memory stocks are slight positive so that will push the wheels out. Better yet if you go a slightly wider tyre.

[incisor]

Infinity do a slightly stronger rim that's rated at 1200kg in 0 offset

[cuppabillytea]

I had mine centre punched by a concrete truck on Monday. At least she bent him a little bit.

[Don 130]

Ouch, that'd hurt. probably not a huge repair, but very inconvenient.
Don

[jon3950]

Fitted new suspension this weekend. I went for LR HD coils in the front with Airbag Man bags in the rear and Bilstein shocks.

Very happy with the result so far. Rides nicely, not too stiff but well controlled and a lot quieter over bumps.

The front springs put me about 10mm over std height - about 80mm clearance at the bump stops which is still within tolerance. I expect that will settle slightly over time.

Currently running 20psi in the rear which gives me 130mm bump stop clearance in the rear which is spot on standard height. This is with the drawer fully loaded and fridge in but no other camping gear. I expect I’ll be up to 30psi when loaded.

https://www.aulro.com/app/data/1396/medium/424F37AE-F92D-4B51-89A1-FB8D7BEA42FB.jpeg

Mounted the valves for the airbags on a bracket mounted to the underside of the crossmember. Protected by the towbar so shouldn’t come to any harm.

https://www.aulro.com/app/data/1396/medium/4C2BEFB9-93D4-4567-B56D-0E997B8FBA67.jpeg

Big test comes next week when we load it up for a few days in the High Country.

[DiscoMick]

Sounds good. Be interested to hear how the HD front springs go for you on rough roads.

[Wallyb]

Installed my $10 ebay net. The elastic on the sides is way too weak so I picked up a stronger line from Bunnings. Will install it this weekend


146917

PS. Visible is the picture my patented "door-keeper-opener"

[cuppabillytea]

Fitted new suspension this weekend. I went for LR HD coils in the front with Airbag Man bags in the rear and Bilstein shocks.

Very happy with the result so far. Rides nicely, not too stiff but well controlled and a lot quieter over bumps.

The front springs put me about 10mm over std height - about 80mm clearance at the bump stops which is still within tolerance. I expect that will settle slightly over time.

Currently running 20psi in the rear which gives me 130mm bump stop clearance in the rear which is spot on standard height. This is with the drawer fully loaded and fridge in but no other camping gear. I expect I’ll be up to 30psi when loaded.



Mounted the valves for the airbags on a bracket mounted to the underside of the crossmember. Protected by the towbar so shouldn’t come to any harm.


Big test comes next week when we load it up for a few days in the High Country.
Sounds good to me. Very similar to what I've been pondering. A price would be nice, if possible.

[jon3950]

Airbags were $345 delivered from Airbag Man
Front springs were $126.70 delivered from Karcraft
Front shocks were $522.50 delivered from Heasmans
Rear shocks were $406.15 delivered from Graeme Cooper

Total investment $1400.15 plus about 20 litres of water and a 6 pack of Young Henrys Newtowner Pale Ale - I picked a very hot day to do it.

I went to GC because Heasmans had no rears. I should have got the fronts from GC too as they were a bit cheaper - I'd forgotten how good GC were to deal with. I wish they were in a more convenient location as I'd really like to go back to them for servicing when the warranty runs out on the Defender.

Cheers,
Jon

[manic]

Finally got a soft spring +2" lift on the D90

Have had the TF medium kit on for a long while, great when loaded up to the max, terribly stiff at all other times. Now settled on RRC police springs up front, and TF015 in the rear. Measurements and spring rates attached.

[labrado]

Replaced the water pump and gasket last Saturdayhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190118/6400935d3463fd6ede572f8cf0984ae6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190118/f107c80e587431ef642b3d2ba5f2db7c.jpg

[DiscoMick]

Finally got a soft spring +2" lift on the D90

Have had the TF medium kit on for a long while, great when loaded up to the max, terribly stiff at all other times. Now settled on RRC police springs up front, and TF015 in the rear. Measurements and spring rates attached.Thanks for that. So the medium kit is significantly firmer than the standard springs.
This confirms my concern that fitting HD springs to the front of my 110 might make it too firm. I know the 90 and 110 have different rates, but it's the same concern.
I want to maintain a soft ride over rough roads, even if that means it's too soft on smooth roads.

[jon3950]

Thanks for that. So the medium kit is significantly firmer than the standard springs.
This confirms my concern that fitting HD springs to the front of my 110 might make it too firm. I know the 90 and 110 have different rates, but it's the same concern.
I want to maintain a soft ride over rough roads, even if that means it's too soft on smooth roads.

I totally understand your concern Mick, but with a bar and winch I don’t think it will. You’ll probably need to put a bit more air in your rear bags to match the ride height though. Next time you come down to Sydney you’re welcome to call in for a cuppa and to try mine out - you’d go past my place to get to the Northern Beaches.

Cheers,
Jon

[DiscoMick]

I totally understand your concern Mick, but with a bar and winch I don’t think it will. You’ll probably need to put a bit more air in your rear bags to match the ride height though. Next time you come down to Sydney you’re welcome to call in for a cuppa and to try mine out - you’d go past my place to get to the Northern Beaches.

Cheers,
JonThanks. I've got the rear airbags at 15 and that seems to work. Thanks also for the invitation. I'll keep your invitation in mind.

[simmo]

I finally got a new intercooler pipe for my VNT turbo, after 4 years of putting up with the original one which did not fit well despite the assurance it would from the turbo kit supplier. It was custom fabricated for the car and fitted with two new silicon elbows and hose clamps for $170. Thee work was done by Adam Tan and the guys at 999 automotive in acacia ridge, just behind reece plumbing. ( I saw their shop while i was getting some PVC pipes). I was bit shy about taking the tractor there, their business is high performance sports cars turbo charging etc. But Adam made me feel welcome and their chief fabricator said he would Tig weld some bends etc together. ( I went there to try to buy some elbows, straights and joiners to make a replacement for the original 300 tdi pipe) Pretty interesting place thye have Nissan GTR skylines, BMWs etc there. They showed me a 700 hp, nissan skyline with a huge Garrett turbo and custom intercooler, there was also a supercharged 4 cylinder Camry with 300 hp.

I'm very pleased with the quality result and the price, if you live on the south side and need some good looking and good flowing inter-cooler , air inlet pipes made, I can recommend them. They also supply & fit inter-coolers etc.

I've also just replaced my cracked brake booster, it was pretty straight forward job.
I have a new fan clutch & water pump to fit as well, I figure they have been there for 23 years, I might as well do them at home than on the side of the road somewhere.

cheers simmo

[Sly]

Might as well do them at home than on the side of the road somewhere.## Quote !!!
Thats the helpfull comments given when the 130 is up on blocks to replace the king pin bearings and the steering box input seal blows out over the floor...Yay fun times .....

[Eddie]

Fitted my traxide headlight harness went from 11v to 13.4v at the headlights. And fitted new LED headlights from Nuggets stuff big difference

[manic]

Replaced my led side/indicator lights with wipac variant.

First picture is wipac, other two show the previous lights.

If anyone wants to pickup the old set, PM me. They come with brand new plinths, and fittings, are emarked and give a better spread of light than the wipacs. One of them had some condensation so needs some silicon. Some marks and such... free.




https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190130/93fd2dd222fbf69f89d8ffd7c081a731.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190130/055c0dc45c0ccbe0abcd951fa7700d50.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190130/a80931b7608e7352681f021ca46cce9f.jpg

[gusthedog]

Replaced my led side/indicator lights with wipac variant.

First picture is wipac, other two show the previous lights.

If anyone wants to pickup the old set, PM me. They come with brand new plinths, and fittings, are emarked and give a better spread of light than the wipacs. One of them had some condensation so needs some silicon. Some marks and such... free.




https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190130/93fd2dd222fbf69f89d8ffd7c081a731.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190130/055c0dc45c0ccbe0abcd951fa7700d50.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190130/a80931b7608e7352681f021ca46cce9f.jpgHey mate, your defender is wearing a really pointy hat [emoji23][emoji23]

[JDNSW]

Yesterday finished the 640,000km service on the 110. A few issues were rectified as well as the regular service.

1. Radiator shroud flapping around. After the radiator was overhauled a few years ago, the top left screw hole for the shroud no longer matched. At the time, I set it up with a couple of washers to hold the shroud. It seems this did not work. So I made up a bit of hoop iron that holds the top of the shroud and is attached to the top frame of the radiator by two self tappers. This meant removing the radiator support bracket.

2. While doing this, found the lock nut on the aircon compressor adjustment was missing. (Aircon is non-standard, and not working at the moment due to a gas leak I can't afford to get rectified) Fixed this - eventually. Very difficult access. With these two flapping not around, the engine is a lot quieter!

3. Replaced the LH sway bar link. Should reduce the rattle from the rear.

4. While checking the RH front parking light, found the source of the smell I had been looking for for the last few days round the workshop. There was a dead crow sitting on top of the bumper, under the light bar and against the grille. Hard to see - black on black. It was just at the stage where it came to bits when I pulled it out!

[ezyrama]

Yesterday finished the 640,000km service on the 110. A few issues were rectified as well as the regular service.

1. Radiator shroud flapping around. After the radiator was overhauled a few years ago, the top left screw hole for the shroud no longer matched. At the time, I set it up with a couple of washers to hold the shroud. It seems this did not work. So I made up a bit of hoop iron that holds the top of the shroud and is attached to the top frame of the radiator by two self tappers. This meant removing the radiator support bracket.

2. While doing this, found the lock nut on the aircon compressor adjustment was missing. (Aircon is non-standard, and not working at the moment due to a gas leak I can't afford to get rectified) Fixed this - eventually. Very difficult access. With these two flapping not around, the engine is a lot quieter!

3. Replaced the LH sway bar link. Should reduce the rattle from the rear.

4. While checking the RH front parking light, found the source of the smell I had been looking for for the last few days round the workshop. There was a dead crow sitting on top of the bumper, under the light bar and against the grille. Hard to see - black on black. It was just at the stage where it came to bits when I pulled it out!

Only 640,000km John, I would take the shroud back as a warranty claim JLR will honour it surely :)

[ezyrama]

I removed the fridge, fitted a draw and remounted the fridge. Then spun the left hand door around to access it through the side window.
Only problem now is after a shoulder recon op, I cant drive for 8 weeks until the arm comes out of the sling. Two weeks in and its killing me
not being able to take the Tardis for a run!

[travelrover]

I removed the fridge, fitted a draw and remounted the fridge. Then spun the left hand door around to access it through the side window.
Only problem now is after a shoulder recon op, I cant drive for 8 weeks until the arm comes out of the sling. Two weeks in and its killing me
not being able to take the Tardis for a run!

Hi ezyrama

How is your fridge secured? Looks like a tee shaped arm mounted on the back (or front) of it!

[ezyrama]

Hi ezyrama

How is your fridge secured? Looks like a tee shaped arm mounted on the back (or front) of it!

Hi Travelrover

At the moment I have ratchet straps from the handles on the fridge down to brackets mounted
onto the side of the drawer at the front and another one bolted through the drawer on the rear of it.
You can just make out the rubber strap in side the rear drawer from when I first trial fitted it.
Cheers Ian

[travelrover]

Hi Travelrover

At the moment I have ratchet straps from the handles on the fridge down to brackets mounted
onto the side of the drawer at the front and another one bolted through the drawer on the rear of it.
You can just make out the rubber strap in side the rear drawer from when I first trial fitted it.
Cheers Ian

Thanks Ian

Cheers Simon

[cuppabillytea]

Not today, not even this week, but last week she clocked up 100,000 Kms.
There's not much to say about that journey really, save for a split intercooler a couple of burst hoses. and a short in the central locking system which shut the whole show down. Breaks and tyers have been replaced of course. Apart from that, everything else is original and still functioning normally. The only concern is growing grinding noise in the drive train when loaded below 1800 revs. I suspect worn shims in the centre diff. Probably from going too hard in the wet.

[ezyrama]

Replaced the security nuts with normal nuts on my wheels .. I did leave one on the spare.

I just don't know - has anyone ever had their wheels stolen?

Dealership destroyed nut nuts ( the locking kind) doing wheel rotations, so I just flicked them and put 5 standard nuts on each rim. I think it has gotten to the point where nearly every car on the road has alloys these days, so I dont think it is a problem here in AUS. The UK is an entirely different matter when it comes to Fenders being stripped though.

[JDNSW]

Yesterday removed the RH front hubcap, and replaced it with one that has not 'grown', with some silicone gasket replacement for good measure. Degreased the hub and wheel.

Note that the early hubcaps are different, having a narrower ridge to fit in a narrower groove.

[Wallyb]

Fitted drawers and a cargo barrier (both second hand)

The rear space looks so much smaller now. How have others felt after doing this?

The drawer floor is about 50mm above wheel arches which seems like a lot of waster space (yeah I know the draw is deeper - but there is a lot of space around it! That along with the "wasted" space on the right to give the drawer some space from the door. I am still not 100% about it all.

The drawer requires 4 holes to be drilled through the floor. So I will hold of a week or two before I commit.


148732148733148734

[4xsama]

Fitted drawers and a cargo barrier (both second hand)

The rear space looks so much smaller now. How have others felt after doing this?

The drawer floor is about 50mm above wheel arches which seems like a lot of waster space (yeah I know the draw is deeper - but there is a lot of space around it! That along with the "wasted" space on the right to give the drawer some space from the door. I am still not 100% about it all.

The drawer requires 4 holes to be drilled through the floor. So I will hold of a week or two before I commit.


148732148733148734

I've wondered about this too. I'd love the order of having drawers etc but cant reconcile the loss of height. I put my 29er MTB in the back (front wheel off) but if I put in the drawers won't be able to fit the bike standing up.

Question is can you fit more gear in with the drawers and cargo barrier (with the extra flat space and structure to fit off gear to as opposed to having just a mass of volume?

A second hand drawer/barrier set might be the ticket.

[DiscoMick]

I have a drawer setup like that from ORS and it's fine. The Defender is quite tall so height has not been an issue for me. Good to have all that stuff out of sight in the drawer and compartments. I also hid the second battery under the cover behind the drawer and it is connected to the starting battery under the seat. Out of sight, out of mind. Works fine.
When you drill through the floor make sure you put large washers underneath so it doesn't pull up through the floor.
Did you get mounting rings fitted to tie down a fridge?

[DiscoMick]

Hi Travelrover

At the moment I have ratchet straps from the handles on the fridge down to brackets mounted
onto the side of the drawer at the front and another one bolted through the drawer on the rear of it.
You can just make out the rubber strap in side the rear drawer from when I first trial fitted it.
Cheers Ian
My fridge is tied down in a very similar way.

[Wallyb]

When you drill through the floor make sure you put large washers underneath so it doesn't pull up through the floor.
Did you get mounting rings fitted to tie down a fridge?

It came with the floor bolts which included nice big square plates, rubber on one side for water proofing.

And yes - I will rig something up to the existing tie points under the new floor - turnbuckle of sorts...

[Zeros]

Does anyone have a single drawer taking up half the space allowing full height on one side?

I tend to use milk crates and flat sided plastic lockable boxes in various configurations as I often need full door height.

[Larry]

.........That along with the "wasted" space on the right to give the drawer some space from the door. I am still not 100% about it all.....

That space is handy for longer things like my axe & log splitter that I don't want any chance of moving around the cabin when mobile.:no2:


.......The drawer requires 4 holes to be drilled through the floor. So I will hold of a week or two before I commit.

I don't like drilling holes unless there is no alternative, so I used the rear seat mounting bolts to secure my draws, with cut down angle brackets on the passenger side to get closer to the wheel arch. Has been in there a couple of years now with no movement issues.:thumbsup:

[Robmacca]

Just curious here but that carpet support mounts mounted under your drawer supports - any chance of them running Nth-Sth instead of East-West?

The only reason I'm asking is that area "could" be utilised to store a nice thin Camping Table.... ??




Fitted drawers and a cargo barrier (both second hand)

The rear space looks so much smaller now. How have others felt after doing this?

The drawer floor is about 50mm above wheel arches which seems like a lot of waster space (yeah I know the draw is deeper - but there is a lot of space around it! That along with the "wasted" space on the right to give the drawer some space from the door. I am still not 100% about it all.

The drawer requires 4 holes to be drilled through the floor. So I will hold of a week or two before I commit.


148732148733148734

[ezyrama]

Does anyone have a single drawer taking up half the space allowing full height on one side?

I tend to use milk crates and flat sided plastic lockable boxes in various configurations as I often need full door height.

I have this set up, The R/H draw is a box with a lid opening to the right. You wont have much width for full height access and if you put the draw on the right hand side it will fowl on the lower door mechanism. Funnily enough when 4wdsupercrap centre had the draw on special, it was the perfect height to marry up to my existing home made box.

[barney]

I removed the fridge, fitted a draw and remounted the fridge. Then spun the left hand door around to access it through the side window.
Only problem now is after a shoulder recon op, I cant drive for 8 weeks until the arm comes out of the sling. Two weeks in and its killing me
not being able to take the Tardis for a run!

I went through the same thing in 2016, but I was only out of action for 6 weeks, but it was the longest 6 weeks of my life. Make sure you do the exercises when it comes off, it'll hurt, but you'll be happier in the long run.

[ezyrama]

I went through the same thing in 2016, but I was only out of action for 6 weeks, but it was the longest 6 weeks of my life. Make sure you do the exercises when it comes off, it'll hurt, but you'll be happier in the long run.

Thx Barney, Doing a little bit each morning in the shower as instructed, but still very sore. I just sit there and stare at that sex on wheels motor vehicle atm :)
Cheers Ian

[numpty]

I went through the same thing in 2016, but I was only out of action for 6 weeks, but it was the longest 6 weeks of my life. Make sure you do the exercises when it comes off, it'll hurt, but you'll be happier in the long run.


Thx Barney, Doing a little bit each morning in the shower as instructed, but still very sore. I just sit there and stare at that sex on wheels motor vehicle atm :)
Cheers Ian

Did the same in 2008 and can only reiterate what Barney said. Exercise, exercise and exercise. Worked for me and was out of the sling just in time for our Madigan Trip.

And to keep with the thread, got the car back after a new clutch and intermediate shaft mod on the transfer case and a rear main oil seal while it was all apart.

Been over to the coast and back and seems to be all working fine. Have to go and pay for it tomorrow [bigsad]

[Xtreme]

Heard a little bird 'chirping' under the bonnet of the Td5 so regreased the two bearings on the idler pulleys and checked the serpentine belt. Last done 100k ago.
Thankfully, the bird has now flown away.

[Summiitt]

I received some hinges today after ordering them from the UK on Friday. My old hinges were so worn that the bonnet kept popping open on corrugations which was pretty annoying given thats what I mostly drive on. The new plastic bushes required a grinder to `adjust them` to ensure the through bolt lined up. You have to pull the bonnet off for the job which isn't that difficult by yourself. Im keen to see tomorrow morning if the noise through the cab has stopped and the bonnet has stopped popping open.149488149489

[mekon76]

Finally located a rattle and removed it. After a year of my slick shift I could hear a rattle. Took the shifter off the stick, nice a tight with tape so not the cause, it was the ****ty weights at the base of the selector. Removed and rattle begone.

[davidgate]

Clutch upgrade and Ashcroft oil fed Quill Shaft mod from MR Automotive. 80,000km.

Dave G

[tc_s1]

Clutch upgrade and Ashcroft oil fed Quill Shaft mod from MR Automotive. 80,000km.

Dave GMore info on that mod available?

[davidgate]

This is as explained to me by MR Automotive: The quill shaft is the output shaft from the gearbox. The existing configuration is a dry spline exposed to the elements. It eventuay fails. The kit replaces the shaft and provides oil feed and a seal. Kit price I paid was $975 + labour.

Dave G

[VladTepes]

Kit price I paid was $975 + labour.
Dave G

Ouch !

[VladTepes]

I changed the front to oil splash lubricated rather than grease and fitted some proper hubs.
Also replaced a screwed stub axle.

When I say I did, I mean someone else (a mate from the forum here) did it :)

Great learning experience !

[sizl]

Finally replaced my lower trailing arm bushes. What a painful job the first one was. Second was easy once I new how to do it.

A 12T press was not enough to push the bushes out. Had to cut the rubber to remove the core. Then tap the edges with a small chisel, enough that I could the use a large chisel to break the interference fitting.

Once I did that, the press with a 1 inch socket did the rest.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190406/7e38a3e779a6426fba07123427ce8cea.jpg

Replaced with SuperPro poly bushes.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190406/e9ab090717c6b1483532e547c41bce06.jpg

[Zeros]

I considered changing to 18 inch rims with 265/70R18’s for a nanosecond :Rolling::Rolling:[bigwhistle]

[plusnq]

150066150065150067150057150058150059150060150061

So I had the Bumblebee in at Kedron Car Electrics to get some work done . They fitted the new dual height Stedi light bar , Mulgo exbox, relocated all the electrics to the exbox and added more usb and 12v outlets, fitted the tow pro, installed the Enerdrive 200ah lithium battery and 40amp Enerdrive charger and victory battery monitor, installed the projecta solar charger to the main battery as well as plugs for the 240vac battery charger to connect to each battery. I can’t praise these guys enough. I’ve been using them for over 15 years and their work has always been excellent. You can see the detail in the wire labelling just so I can know what is where. So if you need an auto electrician in Brisbane’s north side give them a call on 0733594411.

[numpty]

Finally finished packing everything in for the coming trip. [wink11]

[manic]

A-frame super pro bushes, and a greasable,adjustable ball joint.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190414/9fbabd6ffcf2008432007d9735a582f4.jpg

[travelrover]

A-frame super pro bushes, and a greasable,adjustable ball joint.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190414/9fbabd6ffcf2008432007d9735a582f4.jpg

Looks very flash.. is the ball joint a LR part or aftermarket?

[manic]

Aftermarket, from Gwyn Lewis. I think Bearmach/britpart supply same one or similar.

The gloss is plain old penetrol

[travelrover]

Not only this week, but the past few weeks...

Installed a Mud centre console and a mini pod....

151110151111


Still some work to do the bulk of it done..

[towe0609]

Replaced the front brake pads on my 99 td5 Defender 130 with 110,000kms on the clock

They were the original factory fitted Lockheed pads. Pretty happy with that service life - wish I'd replaced them with the same brand!

[barney]

Well, for the last couple of weeks, I've been tracing a fault in my rhs blinker circuit on my 1984 110 truck cab.
I'm finding some horrible things and it's looking like I might have to install another wiring loom to run the auxiliary lights, (blinkers, brake, tail, Parker, reverse) because it will be near impossible to run a new wiring loom without ripping the body off the chassis, and I don't want to do that.
I'm finding that a lot of the cables that are or have been exposed to the elements are perished and the insulation has cracked and caused the cable cores to break down. Still haven't found the actual short yet, but getting cloSer. It's not the actual blinkers, the hazard switch is by-passed, the relay is fine, and it's got a new indicator stalk, this is why I am thinking about the loom.

[Damo89]

New wheels (should have ordered these with the car, have been kicking myself for the last 5 years...) and new tyres... BFG Ko2's....

151239

[travelrover]

New wheels (should have ordered these with the car, have been kicking myself for the last 5 years...) and new tyres... BFG Ko2's....

151239

Looks very smart!

[Sly]

Well, for the last couple of weeks, I've been tracing a fault in my rhs blinker circuit on my 1984 110 truck cab.
I'm finding some horrible things and it's looking like I might have to install another wiring loom to run the auxiliary lights, (blinkers, brake, tail, Parker, reverse) because it will be near impossible to run a new wiring loom without ripping the body off the chassis, and I don't want to do that.
I'm finding that a lot of the cables that are or have been exposed to the elements are perished and the insulation has cracked and caused the cable cores to break down. Still haven't found the actual short yet, but getting cloSer. It's not the actual blinkers, the hazard switch is by-passed, the relay is fine, and it's got a new indicator stalk, this is why I am thinking about the loom.

Giday Barney , had same issues with my 130 . The wire loom running back had multiple rubs and burns inside and out of the chassis rail .In the end i just pulled out the loom , located the breaks / burns , cut out the damage and ran some new wire . Rather than put the repaired loom back in the rail , just re wraped in tape / spiral wrap and attached it along the rail . That way its easer to get at all the off shoot/connectors in the future . Also left a pull line inside thr rail for future..

[FARGO]

Replaced the steering box in my 130. The constant leak from the output shaft finally got to me. Had already done the seal insitu but the leak returned pretty quickly.

[Damo89]

Drove it. Then slept in it.

151331 151332 151333 151334

[Larry]

Drove it. Then slept in it.

151331 151332 151333 151334

Just as well. Your pic in post #317 showed it waaaaaaaaay too clean!:no2::lol2:

[Damo89]

Just as well. Your pic in post #317 showed it waaaaaaaaay too clean!:no2::lol2:
Haha it never stays that way for long

[ezyrama]

Fitted new black sequential front guard blinkers and went and rescued a mates son whose D1's lift pump packed up whilst camping.
That gave us an excuse to sit around a campfire for the night. Bloody luxury!

[ezyrama]

Loaded mine up with firewood and sat by a river and campfire this weekend with a bottle of whiskey, and admired the sheer beauty that is a Defender

[Joshp2018]

Just fitted some seat covers to the puma, got them from a place in WA, they fitted well. Hopefully got a catch can coming this week so I can fit it at the weekend.

[ezyrama]

Had the key switch replaced but finding it a pita with 2 keys, door and ignition. Must sort it out, or go sit by a river and fire and chill. Also must sort out why the car locks me inside occasionally just after I draw the key out of the ignition.[emoji848][emoji848]

[incisor]

made some replacement mudflaps from 4.5mm thick 5 ply insertion rubber

should well and truly out last the cheap crap they supply these days :p

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/a3f4e43e340144cccd8f168dc6813922.jpg

[DiscoMick]

Got a leak diagnosed. It seems to be a seal on the fuel pump. Will be getting it fixed soon.

[Dorian]

Knocked up a storage box for the rear to stop things running around

151699

Had and a long range tank put in by my local indie

151700

OEM tow bar. Takes 118 l so should give me 110 usable

cheers Glen

[JDNSW]

Day before yesterday I had just unloaded wood from the 2a, and I noticed the County had a lean. Closer examination showed the RH back tyre was flat. So I pulled out the hydraulic jack and started to jack it up. Jack only went up about four inches (10cm). Not enough.

Down to the shed and get another jack. Jacked it up, put the spare on, put the flat tyre back on the wheel carrier - and put the spare out of the 2a in the back. I'm not driving into town without a spare!

Then took the jack to the shed to top up the fluid. I don't know what happened to it - must be a very slow leak, because there is no sign of it. Took me ten minutes to get the plug out, less than five minutes to top it up - and over half an hour to get the plug back in! Then checked its operation and put the tools away.

I don't know the antecedents of the jack - it came with the car 26 years ago, but is not the standard one. I prefer an under axle jack anyway!

Careful examination of the tyre shows no visible damage.

[travelrover]

Knocked up a storage box for the rear to stop things running around

151699

Had and a long range tank put in by my local indie

151700

OEM tow bar. Takes 118 l so should give me 110 usable

cheers Glen

Good looking tank. What brand is it?

[Dorian]

Good looking tank. What brand is it?

Its a “The Long Ranger” by Out of Town 4WD , I think it’s the 2nd tank they have done for the OEM tow bar. There were a couple of things I’m going to get back to them about. Minor things, but would make things easier.

Cheers Glen

[travelrover]

Thanks Glen

Cheers - Simon

[gusthedog]

Must sort it out, or go sit by a river and fire and chill. [emoji848][emoji848]

Is that the AULRO version of "Netflix and chill"? [emoji23]

[ezyrama]

Adjusted the bonnet catch, same with the heater control cable. Gave him a tub, cleaned the wheels, tyres the whole shebang. Goes in for the 120k service tomorrow. All in aim of the 4k trip I am embarking on this weekend to pick up my new toy/project. Looks like a flash one now hey?

[Shoogs]

LRA 134l fuel tank, pretty easy about 3 hours...

[travelrover]

An expensive week for my 300Tdi project with a replacement gearbox, a new heavy duty clutch, a new timing belt, boost pin installed and fuel pump tweeked. The thing flies now compared with before....pulling up hills in 5th that I would have to take in 3rd previously.

On top of that cost it was rego renewal for the Puma 90.

[ezyrama]

Drove from Goondiwindi to jeralderie with Scanfor to collect my new project tomorrow in Harrow VIC

[Arie A]

Hi I purchased a 110 TD5 from the auctions last month and made my own kahn defender.
I tried to get hold of a puma bonnet but ended up making my own. I sprayed the car with raptor coating and
today I finally received my new steel wheels with 265/75/16 tyres . Please let me know what you think.
152001Cheers arie A

[cucinadio]

New wheels (should have ordered these with the car, have been kicking myself for the last 5 years...) and new tyres... BFG Ko2's....

151239

Can i ask what they set you back mate?

[micksta1973]

Fitted Ashcroft axles/cvs/drive members. So much slop has disappeared. Money well spent.

[dromader driver]

New fuel tank and rubber filler pipe looking for a leak. Filler pipe looks like it was melting internally and had delaminated. Found due to clogging in the super expensive $2 fuel filters.

Rubber had become almost molten.

[rijidij]

I removed the fridge, fitted a draw and remounted the fridge. Then spun the left hand door around to access it through the side window.
Only problem now is after a shoulder recon op, I cant drive for 8 weeks until the arm comes out of the sling. Two weeks in and its killing me
not being able to take the Tardis for a run!

I highly recommend replacing the sliding window with a Gullwing, you will not regret it with your fridge access from the side.

[Dorian]

Stopped my rear door from closing on me, always.

152223

Cheers Glen

[travelrover]

Installed a high level brake light on my 96’ 300Tdi using a second hand D2 housing and brackets and a secondhand Defender adapter/spacer which alters the angle a bit! Also replaced the incandescent bulb with a led which required reversing the polarity but offers a much brighter and instant light.

I used black bear double sided black tape to mount to the rear window leaving a gap over the heater element to circumvent rubbing as this is a year or two before these were standard fitment.

Works well and hopefully will provide a ‘higher’ profile warning to those behind. The sidelight/indicators were replaced with Wipac LEDs a year or so ago.

[ezyrama]

I am just about to get the scan tool out and see why the truck dropped into fault mode on the run into work this morning when I hooked around a corner a bit too quickly. Unfortunately I have to get all the camping gear out to get to it in the storage box though, and its raining at work.

[barney]

Well, for the last couple of weeks, I've been tracing a fault in my rhs blinker circuit on my 1984 110 truck cab.
I'm finding some horrible things and it's looking like I might have to install another wiring loom to run the auxiliary lights, (blinkers, brake, tail, Parker, reverse) because it will be near impossible to run a new wiring loom without ripping the body off the chassis, and I don't want to do that.
I'm finding that a lot of the cables that are or have been exposed to the elements are perished and the insulation has cracked and caused the cable cores to break down. Still haven't found the actual short yet, but getting cloSer. It's not the actual blinkers, the hazard switch is by-passed, the relay is fine, and it's got a new indicator stalk, this is why I am thinking about the loom.

Rear loom replaced with trailer wiring loom from supercheap. Lights all working well, took for a test drive - all good, for at least 10 minutes, then back to the same shenanigans.
Bugger, its the front loom on the passenger side, now i have to trace that out. :(

[JDNSW]

Hooked up a trickle charger on the battery - I'll need it charged in the morning seeing I have to go & pick up the grandkids, and it has been hard to start on cold mornings since winter has arrived. (I really must replace the battery!)

[headdamage]

Removed the old LT77 and LT230 (1.6 ratio) and replaced with an Ashcroft LT77 and used disco LT230 (1.2 ratio) in preparation to fit a good used 200tdi in place of my old 2.5na.

[Phil B]

Removed the old LT77 and LT230 (1.6 ratio) and replaced with an Ashcroft LT77 and used disco LT230 (1.2 ratio) in preparation to fit a good used 200tdi in place of my old 2.5na.

How much did the new LT77 cost you landed if you don’t mind?

[JDNSW]

Drove to Molong & back to pick up kids+dog. No problems, no other Defenders, saw a couple of D1/2s, but traffic pretty light for first day of school holidays.

[headdamage]

How much did the new LT77 cost you landed if you don’t mind?

Sorry, bought it about 7 years ago and had it stored in the garage. I don't recall what it cost.

[Phil B]

Thanks

[micksta1973]

Had a 2.75" straight thru exhaust fitted. Now get that lovely turbo noise out the back. Egts have gone up big time. Easily pull 450 accelerating hard, where as I used to maybe get 280. Turbo spooling up way faster though. Anyone know safe Egts for a 300tdi? I've been told 600 tops but can't find any documentation to verify.

[ezyrama]

Had a 2.75" straight thru exhaust fitted. Now get that lovely turbo noise out the back. Egt's have gone up big time. Easily pull 450 accelerating hard, where as I used to maybe get 280. Turbo spooling up way faster though. Anyone know safe Egts for a 300tdi? I've been told 600 tops but can't find any documentation to verify.

A mates 300tdi is set to alarm at 650deg (before the turbo). things inside may start melting at 700ish.

[ezyrama]

had to wrap up the top turbo hose and order a replacement today. It had rubbed through on the radiator hose clamp and dropped into limp mode on an air flow fault.

[micksta1973]

Refitted the freshly powder coated tow bar and took the cargo barrier in for the same. Test fitted the plate and fairlead on the bar. Holes in the plate are for the Runva 11XP winch bolts.

[bulldog2004]

152619

fitted new adjustable 4g antenna bracket

[ezyrama]

Put the Tardis in to have an Ashcroft's output shaft kit installed, replace a split turbo hose (top one) and the 122k service.

[barney]

Well, for the last couple of weeks, I've been tracing a fault in my rhs blinker circuit on my 1984 110 truck cab.
I'm finding some horrible things and it's looking like I might have to install another wiring loom to run the auxiliary lights, (blinkers, brake, tail, Parker, reverse) because it will be near impossible to run a new wiring loom without ripping the body off the chassis, and I don't want to do that.
I'm finding that a lot of the cables that are or have been exposed to the elements are perished and the insulation has cracked and caused the cable cores to break down. Still haven't found the actual short yet, but getting cloSer. It's not the actual blinkers, the hazard switch is by-passed, the relay is fine, and it's got a new indicator stalk, this is why I am thinking about the loom.

Further to this, I replaced the rear lighting loom, tested each light individually and they all worked great. I took it for a drive to test them and 10 minutes in, they started playing up again.
Back into the carport for more work. Over the last couple of weeks I traced out the LHS circuit, which is the faulty one, not the RHS as I wrote initially - typo! Then last weekend I pulled the instrument cluster out again and started tracing wires, the Green with red tracer wire (LHS indicator) was sweated together and heat shrunk in a cluster of 5. Pulled that apart, tested each one and traced it to it's source, found no faults.
In the end, I had one of those "I wonder if?" moments and removed the indicator bayonet no the back of the dash and basically fixed the problem.
The issue was that the bayonet clips in to a recess on a printed circuit board in the dash. The older 110s used only one light to tell you the indicators were going, by sending power through the incandescent bulb one way for left and the other way for right (swapping polarity), found this out by trying to fit an LED bulb instead.
So waht had happened was that a short had occurred between these contacts which screwed up the whole system.
Working now though, the YOOT lives again!

[JDNSW]

On Monday I dropped it off at a mechanic's to get the injectors done plus a couple of other issues. Told them they could have it until early next week.

[micksta1973]

Removed and put sealant under all the drive members due to the L/R specialist mechanic I paid $300 (plus installing Cv's and axles) for the job didn't do it as he didn't think it was needed. We even discussed how I had converted the rear wheel bearings to oil lubrication. I went back a week later to show him oil flicking out everywhere on my white OE rims thinking he would rectify it straight away, only to be told he could fix it in 3-4 weeks as he was busy. Also had to apply Loctite and torque all bolts as they were, I'm guessing, tightened with an impact gun and were way over spec. Also found the shims for the front axles under the flange cover nuts instead of under the circlip for axle preload as well. Running out of places to go here.

[fatnold]

.......L/R specialist mechanic I paid $300 ....... Running out of places to go here.

where are you located?

[W&KO]

On Monday I dropped it off at a mechanic's to get the injectors done plus a couple of other issues. Told them they could have it until early next week.

Is this the first service of your injectors? From memory yours has done 600k ish

[JDNSW]

Is this the first service of your injectors? From memory yours has done 600k ish

They were serviced at about 160,000, and I was told I had wasted my money! (current mileage is about 645,000km)

Thought they should be looked at after doing round 500,000km, especially since I plan to drive to Perth next month. Still starts easily even in cold weather, and fuel consumption is unchanged, but I get the feeling it is a bit down on power (although not much) and can be a bit smoky.

[W&KO]

They were serviced at about 160,000, and I was told I had wasted my money! (current mileage is about 645,000km)

Thought they should be looked at after doing round 500,000km, especially since I plan to drive to Perth next month. Still starts easily even in cold weather, and fuel consumption is unchanged, but I get the feeling it is a bit down on power (although not much) and can be a bit smoky.

Thanks John

Enjoy your trip to Perth

[ezyrama]

Put the Tardis in to have an Ashcroft's output shaft kit installed, replace a split turbo hose (top one) and the 122k service.

Got it back, even though the local dealer did the recall for the non lubricated output shaft 50k ago, when the old one came out, it was dry as a dead dingoes donger and the splines were badly damaged to the point where we think it would have probably failed within the next 10-15k. Feels like a different car to drive now, a lot smoother.

[DiscoMick]

Got it back, even though the local dealer did the recall for the non lubricated output shaft 50k ago, when the old one came out, it was dry as a dead dingoes donger and the splines were badly damaged to the point where we think it would have probably failed within the next 10-15k. Feels like a different car to drive now, a lot smoother.'Dry as a dead dingoes donger'- love it. Classic Oz slang. Can you imagine a Chinese visitor's confusion hearing that?
[emoji16]

[JDNSW]

Picked up the 110 from the mechanic's this morning. They have had the injectors overhauled, replaced the priming pump, and fixed the baffling short in high beam.

Not cheap though - injectors $185 each was the main item! Add labour, the primer, and a service, and it was $1327.

The little distance I have driven since suggests noticeably better performance, and perhaps a bit noisier, but that may be because for the last two weeks I have been driving my grand daughter's D2.

[JDNSW]

Drove home from Yass today towing a box trailer. Definitely more power - did hills in top that I am used to needing third on.

Saw two "Defenders" (one was a County) and one 2a. Trip was uneventful, traffic pretty light.

[spudfan]

This is Zikali. 1992 110 tdi. That makes her 27 years of age. Still on it's original engine, chassis and springs.
I vaguely remember when the wife had a 27 year old body but I don't recall her looking as good as this.
And yes the wife still has her original chassis, suspension and body work......but I chose to photograph the Defender.[bigwhistle]
153314153315153316

[plusnq]

This is Zikali. 1992 110 tdi. That makes her 27 years of age. Still on it's original engine, chassis and springs.
I vaguely remember when the wife had a 27 year old body but I don't recall her looking as good as this.
And yes the wife still has her original chassis, suspension and body work......but I chose to photograph the Defender.[bigwhistle]
153314153315153316


hahaha. I bet your wife isn’t on the forum 😂😂😂

[DeeJay]

A few minor repairs after a 22,000k trip to W.A/NT/SA & home towing a pop top van with the TD5 Deefer.
Mostly corrugations related.
A fusible link (100 amp) blew which I believe was caused by a broken off glow plug lead. The only casualty was no horn..- couldn't toot hello to other Landies..Unnecessarily relaced the column stalk with a new one while finding the fault by elimination process..
Replaced the rear suspension fulcrum bush. Wasn't chronic but a bit clunky.
Also the aftermarket Salisbury H/D cover worked loose & I suspect the bolts supplied were wrong thread. Replaced them with slightly longer ones with Loctite & spring washers.
Previously bought full suspension bush components, but the old girl took the punishment well & doesn't need them.
Next parts to be fitted is a full starter refurb kit as it got "clicky" at Uluru on a freezing morning, so I assume its sending me a warning.
Final job is to hook out the UHF radio from where it vibrated out of sight into the dashboard & do a better job of securing it.
Not bad considering that we covered a lot of rough roads & tracks- around 4000k's. Notable ones were a track from Cocklebiddy to the ocean, Steep point ( most Westerly point on mainland) Pilbara, Cape Leveque, Gibb River/Drysdale Station & track in to Purnululu - couldn't call that a road..
David

[vnx205]

During the last part of a 10,500 km trip to Perth and back the gearbox developed what sounded like a bearing noise.

I assumed it was the same bearing on the layshaft in the 5th/reverse extension housing that I had replaced a couple of hundred thousand kilometres previously.

However it was the bearing on the mainshaft in the extension.

Since the Defender had done 315,000 km, I decided a few other things should be replaced as I had already removed the transfer case and the extension housing.

So I removed the gearbox as well to replace the clutch and associated parts.

I was quite surprised that after 315,000 km, the clutch lining was still almost exactly the same thickness as the new heavy duty clutch. Similarly, the pivot point on the fork looked good for at least another 300,000 km. However, the springs in the friction plate were in very poor shape.

The transfer case had been leaking, so I'm hoping the new intermediate shaft o-rings will cure that. The seals on the mainshaft where the transfer case and the gearbox meet were replaced.

Fortunately I had read somewhere on the forum that the screws that secure the gearbox oil pump often need to be drilled out, so I didn't panic when they refused to come out. What I don't understand is why after drilling out the heads of the screws, the remaining threaded section was easily removed with my fingers.

Lifting a gearbox or transfer case into place by myself without an engine hoist involved some ingenious use of ropes, levers and wooden blocks, but it all went quite smoothly albeit very slowly.

It is back on the road and all seems good.

[Floydo]

Finally found and picked up my first Defender. Started the road trip back to Sydney from the Claire Valley South Australia. Places you got to go to get a good one. Anyway made it to Balranalds tonight. Sydney tomorrow. With the biggest grin on my face. Only problem haven't passed another Defender to get that warm fuzzy feeling wave.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190807/a095bd11097e7c603c706e6c1a0d8dc8.jpg

[spudfan]

hahaha. I bet your wife isn’t on the forum ������
Actually I have to get the wife to upload the photos. I add the text once she has left the room.[smilebigeye]

[plusnq]

[bigsmile][bigsmile][bigsmile][bigsmile][bigsmile]

[JDNSW]

Replaced the rear shocks on the County. Took about an hour. Would have been less, but I don't have a socket deep enough to undo (and do up) the bottom nut with the rattle gun - nor a ratchet/ring that size (19mm). So had to do it with an ordinary ring spanner, which is slow, and being a Nyloc is spanner all the way. And found when I parked it that the LH low beam is not working. I'll fix this when the blast from the south pole is finished!

[JDNSW]

More work getting ready to drive to Perth leaving next Wednesday. (Replaced the blown low beam bulb)

Today replaced the label for the heater conrols. This was delaminating, so I carefully removed it, then assembled it as well as I could, tapedi it to a sheet of paper and scanned it.

I then processed it using "The Gimp" image processor to restore the image to something like new. then printed it, laminated it, cut it out, and fixed it in place using double sided tape.

[travelrover]

Trying to replace the upper rear suspension bushes and A frame ball joint. Spent three hours removing the upper right suspension arm nut! Haven’t removed the bolt. Can’t even move the left one yet :-( The four 13mm bolts securing the ball joint won’t move either...

Back into it tomorrow.

[mfc]

Might be a good place to pop this....got a bang in the left rear of 2002 defender.......also ripped two bilsteins apart ...left rear.... I’m reconing bushes a frame bushes and ball joint........sticking in superpros so I don’t have to burn bushes out in the side of the road some where inconvenient ......trailing arms done snd dusted and 2 of 3 a frame mounts lossened hand tight...one half of then my mate gets sconed[close to no clarret]. By thishttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/e28a09cdb16ce1b6f5613c7c2ed28b98.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/d092b6f2cab40a5ad75aeb8c17832a3e.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/7e97dc3df05d7378d4a68ff0d8cff246.jpg,
Anyone had it happen ? ...and if you can’t find a bang look there lol

[Xtreme]

A mate had it happen. Drove home (about 200kms) with it all held together with fencing wire.
Yours is only the second I've heard of, will be interesting to see if you get any other responses.

[rar110]

What is it? Sorry I don’t recognise the part

[JDNSW]

Aren't they the mounts for the front of one of the A-frame arms?

[mfc]

Aren't they the mounts for the front of one of the A-frame arms?

Yes with a section of chassis atached with remaining bolt

[mfc]

A mate had it happen. Drove home (about 200kms) with it all held together with fencing wire.
Yours is only the second I've heard of, will be interesting to see if you get any other responses.

Yea I kinda don’t expect to get many

[travelrover]

I have managed to get the upper suspension arms and the old ball joint removed but am unable to undo the castellated nut.

I have heated it several times with a propane torch, drowned it with deep creep, tried moving with a 600mm long bar on the end of the socket but the slippery little sucker moved around in the vice. I just can’t get it tight enough not to slip. Have also attacked with an impact hammer. Nothing...

At least the old bushes pushed out with no issues let’s hope the new ones go in as easily!

[Standard]

I have managed to get the upper suspension arms and the old ball joint removed but am unable to undo the castellated nut.

I have heated it several times with a propane torch, drowned it with deep creep, tried moving with a 600mm long bar on the end of the socket but the slippery little sucker moved around in the vice. I just can’t get it tight enough not to slip. Have also attacked with an impact hammer. Nothing...

At least the old bushes pushed out with no issues let’s hope the new ones go in as easily!I did mine yesterday arvo. I loosened the castellated nut before I removed the ball joint from the vehicle, it took my long 3/4" breaker bar and my foot on the diff, tight little bugger!
You could try drilling a couple of holes in your bench and bolting it down or bolting it back onto the diff.
Good luck.

Cheers,
Stan.

[travelrover]

Thanks Stan

Yeah I thought of that after I had it off! I will give it a go with the air gun but suspect that won’t have enough guts. Plan B is to take it to KLR and get the boys to do it for me.

Cheers Simon

[Standard]

Thanks Stan

Yeah I thought of that after I had it off! I will give it a go with the air gun but suspect that won’t have enough guts. Plan B is to take it to KLR and get the boys to do it for me.

Cheers SimonThe other thing to try is putting as much force as you can on the nut with a socket and long bar and get someone to hit the socket with a hammer. Its amazing what a little tappy tap can do.

[travelrover]

A quick trip to KLR and Brad had it in parts within 30 seconds.

So this part of the job is done...

[JDNSW]

Topped up fuel and finished most of the packing for my departure for Perth on Wednesday. Tomorrow will be spent getting the house organised to leave for a couple of weeks, and hope to be out of here by 0700 on Wednesday.

[W&KO]

Topped up fuel and finished most of the packing for my departure for Perth on Wednesday. Tomorrow will be spent getting the house organised to leave for a couple of weeks, and hope to be out of here by 0700 on Wednesday.

Safe travels John

[mfc]

Thanks Stan

Yeah I thought of that after I had it off! I will give it a go with the air gun but suspect that won’t have enough guts. Plan B is to take it to KLR and get the boys to do it for me.

Cheers Simon

I got mine of in a vice with a short 3/4 inch bar and a very thin walled 3/4 inch 30 mm socket.... rattle gun did absolutely nothing.
Had no luck with normal sockets, the thin one covered the whole nut
I was about at the point of drilling a few small holes in the nut before that

[travelrover]

I got mine of in a vice with a short 3/4 inch bar and a very thin walled 3/4 inch 30 mm socket.... rattle gun did absolutely nothing.
Had no luck with normal sockets, the thin one covered the whole nut

Thanks MFC, I didn’t have a large enough socket for the rattle gun and didn’t want to use the ordinary socket and risk shattering it. I was using a 600mm length of gal pipe on the socket but the whole thing just moved in the vice. I did take it to KLR and they had it off in seconds. Brad did say ‘we normally take these off on the vehicle’ but certainly helps having all the correct equipment.

[mfc]

Next time I’ll be foing it while it’s in car to

[travelrover]

Next time I’ll be foing it while it’s in car to

And me!

[micksta1973]

Put sticky tape on my rear window after a slight woopsie.

[JDNSW]

Drove to Peterborough SA.

[Xtreme]

Drove to Peterborough SA.
Hope all your thorough preparation pays off & you have a trouble free, safe trip John.
That was a decent run for your first day out, the County must be going well.
Will be following your progress.

[micksta1973]

Refitted my dump pipe to turbo flange as the exhaust "specialist" decided that only one of the three fasteners was enough. Soot all over the engine. He did also use a small bolt, but didn't tighten it up. The other stud didn't have a nut on it due to the thread being damaged. I'm guessing this is why they didn't fit a nut. I had to remove the flange off the turbo to remove the damaged stud. Found new studs/copper pinch nuts and refitted all back together with nickel antiseize. Good fun doing up the nut closest to the block due to NO room at all. It took me 40 minutes with a stubby open ended spanner turning it about a twentieth of a rotation at a time, having to flip it over each time due to the off set angle of the spanner. It was fun. I've been back to the shop seven times now chasing leaks.

[JDNSW]

Hope all your thorough preparation pays off & you have a trouble free, safe trip John.
That was a decent run for your first day out, the County must be going well.
Will be following your progress.

Arrived in Perth. Biggest problem is we got lost (with GPS aid!) finding the motel. I think I must have entered the address incorrectly. My passenger put the same address in google on his phone and got us there.

[Xtreme]

Arrived in Perth. Biggest problem is we got lost (with GPS aid!) finding the motel. I think I must have entered the address incorrectly. My passenger put the same address in google on his phone and got us there.
Well done JD. 3,600kms (or thereabouts) in four days in the County is good going. Hope you can relax a bit before returning.
Also good to hear that your only problem was a minor geographical embarrassment which was quickly overcome.

[JDNSW]

Not quite the only problem. At Wilmington the end cover on the aircleaner came loose (it was serviced by the bloke who did the injectors, not me!), and also the high beam fault has returned (not a real issue - driving lights work, and they are are lot better than the high beam anyway).

[micksta1973]

Paid duties on my R380 with HD bearings/LT230 with steel bush/extended sump + ATB from Ashcrofts. Total came in around $5200 delivered. Cheaper than sourcing local unfortunately. Why so expensive here?

[travelrover]

I cleaned up (including pushing out the old bushes) and painted the rear upper suspension arms that I removed the previous weekend. Pressed in new bushes and started to reassemble with new bolts. That went pretty smoothly.

Then I connected the new A frame ball joint to the other end (greasable type) but no way could I line up the big bolt with the mounting plate on the axel. All the bolts are loose so I can move things around a bit. The vehicle has stands under the chassis and I jacked the axel up as it says in the Haynes manual but still no luck. Then I ran out of time.

So what’s the trick to lining this bolt up with the mounting plate? Just keep fiddling with the axel height?

And does anyone know what the torque rating is for the four 13mm headed bolts that connect the plate to the axel? Everything else seems to 130 lbs.

Cheers - Simon

[Standard]

I cleaned up (including pushing out the old bushes) and painted the rear upper suspension arms that I removed the previous weekend. Pressed in new bushes and started to reassemble with new bolts. That went pretty smoothly.

Then I connected the new A frame ball joint to the other end (greasable type) but no way could I line up the big bolt with the mounting plate on the axel. All the bolts are loose so I can move things around a bit. The vehicle has stands under the chassis and I jacked the axel up as it says in the Haynes manual but still no luck. Then I ran out of time.

So what’s the trick to lining this bolt up with the mounting plate? Just keep fiddling with the axel height?

And does anyone know what the torque rating is for the four 13mm headed bolts that connect the plate to the axel? Everything else seems to 130 lbs.

Cheers - SimonHi Simon,

Try putting a bottle jack under the nose of the pinion and using that to adjust the angle of the diff in conjunction with jacking up the whole axle.

Cheers,
Stan.

[travelrover]

Hi Simon,

Try putting a bottle jack under the nose of the pinion and using that to adjust the angle of the diff in conjunction with jacking up the whole axle.

Cheers,
Stan.

Thanks Stan

That makes sense I shall give that a go next weekend! Need a bigger block of timber for the hack I guess I guess..

[Standard]

Thanks Stan

That makes sense I shall give that a go next weekend! Need a bigger block of timber for the hack I guess I guess..To be a bit clearer, I had axle stands under each side of the chassis rails, a trolley jack in the middle of the diff and then the Land Rover bottle jack under the nose of the diff to adjust the angle.

I didn't do the 13mm bolts to a specific torque setting as I could only fit a ring spanner in the avaliable space, I did whoever use medium threadlock compound on them.

Cheers,
Stan.

[travelrover]

To be a bit clearer, I had axle stands under each side of the chassis rails, a trolley jack in the middle of the diff and then the Land Rover bottle jack under the nose of the diff to adjust the angle.

I didn't do the 13mm bolts to a specific torque setting as I could only fit a ring spanner in the avaliable space, I did whoever use medium threadlock compound on them.

Cheers,
Stan.

Thanks again. Yes that is pretty much the set up I have right down to the 243 Loctite. So hoping it is not peeing down I will get back into it next weekend.

Cheers Simon

[DeeJay]

I'm getting pretty sick of drivers cutting me off 10 times a day, so I shifted my air compressor to under the driver seat, set up an old winch relay & a compressor 120 psi cut out switch & ran an airline to a 6 litre old primus bottle that I installed under the driver floor then up to this 640mm train horn that fits neatly under the r/h mudguard ( along with another 17" air horn)
Bloody loud !!

[carpdvl]

I'm getting pretty sick of drivers cutting me off 10 times a day, so I shifted my air compressor to under the driver seat, set up an old winch relay & a compressor 120 psi cut out switch & ran an airline to a 6 litre old primus bottle that I installed under the driver floor then up to this 640mm train horn that fits neatly under the r/h mudguard ( along with another 17" air horn)
Bloody loud !!Brilliant! Got a video?

[dromader driver]

Standing by for the video. often wondered how much air a set of GM or ALCO horns would need. 6029 steam whistle would be better!!

[Standard]

I'm getting pretty sick of drivers cutting me off 10 times a day, so I shifted my air compressor to under the driver seat, set up an old winch relay & a compressor 120 psi cut out switch & ran an airline to a 6 litre old primus bottle that I installed under the driver floor then up to this 640mm train horn that fits neatly under the r/h mudguard ( along with another 17" air horn)
Bloody loud !!I assume that you will now be using standard maritime safety signals from here on?

YouTube (https://youtu.be/lkFhf9Cz68c)

[DeeJay]

Brilliant! Got a video?

Ha, I will post up some dashcam footage in the not too distant future. Need to spend another $40 on proper airline fittings as the bayonet/hose clips are not holding pressure for long..

[mfc]

Re welded cracked a frame cross member, rebuilt front and rear prop shafts, removed egr,[was bypassed but looking at it gave me the ****s]..seems to spool up faster now.
Superpro bushes in all the rear replaced a frame ball joint and[fingers crossed] sorted a front right hand abs sensor issue.
Replaced snapped of front window squirter.
Now to rip out the useless air con and dump the center muffler and do all the oils, and a rust repair in rear cross member
Most heinous job of all...washed it

[micksta1973]

Signed for delivery of my Ashcroft gear and trans boxes. It'll go in after my rear door gets fixed next week. It'll be great to be able to use 3rd gear after so long. Yay!

[travelrover]

To be a bit clearer, I had axle stands under each side of the chassis rails, a trolley jack in the middle of the diff and then the Land Rover bottle jack under the nose of the diff to adjust the angle.

I didn't do the 13mm bolts to a specific torque setting as I could only fit a ring spanner in the avaliable space, I did whoever use medium threadlock compound on them.

Cheers,
Stan.

Back into trying to get this dam A frame ball joint on. Had the thread of the balljoint through the hole on the mounting plate on the axle and was trying to get the thread started then it slipped and pulled out, in doing so the retaining ring around the rubber boot came off. Trying to get this back on is going my head in.

I could only get the thread lined up with the hole by removing the forward 19 mm headed fulcrum bolt. No matter how high I jacked the axel up I could not get it to go. Not helped by my floor jack not bigger enough to raise the axle higher enough and being on grass, so I have two bottles jacks in play. Sigh [emoji17]...

[Standard]

Back into trying to get this dam A frame ball joint on. Had the thread of the balljoint through the hole on the mounting plate on the axle and was trying to get the thread started then it slipped and pulled out, in doing so the retaining ring around the rubber boot came off. Trying to get this back on is going my head in.

I could only get the thread lined up with the hole by removing the forward 19 mm headed fulcrum bolt. No matter how high I jacked the axel up I could not get it to go. Not helped by my floor jack not bigger enough to raise the axle higher enough and being on grass, so I have two bottles jacks in play. Sigh [emoji17]...You can get a long bit of wood and lever the A frame down to the axle.

If you're trying to start the castellated nut with the washer in place, remove it. You don't need the washer until you actually are at the point of tightening it, at this point it just reduces the amount of exposed thread. Remember it's a ball joint so you can change the angle with a bit of wood and/or a mallet.

Good luck.

Stan.

[travelrover]

You can get a long bit of wood and lever the A frame down to the axle.

If you're trying to start the castellated nut with the washer in place, remove it. You don't need the washer until you actually are at the point of tightening it, at this point it just reduces the amount of exposed thread. Remember it's a ball joint so you can change the angle with a bit of wood and/or a mallet.

Good luck.

Stan.

Thanks Stan

Yeah I had levered it down with a length of timber against the fuel tank, and no washer at this point.

I just need to figure out how to get this ring back on the boot first. Am about to chop up a yoghurt container and make a sort of cone to try and get it on.

[mfc]

Thanks Stan

Yeah I had levered it down with a length of timber against the fuel tank, and no washer at this point.

I just need to figure out how to get this ring back on the boot first. Am about to chop up a yoghurt container and make a sort of cone to try and get it on.
I did mine last week....put the ball joint on first..with the a frame mounted to the chassis losely, then jiggle leaver the a frame plate around and get one of the two Long bolts in then use a jack to line it up[I used a jack under axle] had the issue with the retainer and mine I wound down the boot a bit then back up into place....the bolts on a Salisbury feel to lightly slope towards the prop shaft side from memory....they were annoying and why I ended Placing the ball on before the a arms
Cheers mark

[travelrover]

I did mine last week....put the ball joint on first..with the a frame mounted to the chassis losely, then jiggle leaver the a frame plate around and get one of the two Long bolts in then use a jack to line it up[I used a jack under axle] had the issue with the retainer and mine I wound down the boot a bit then back up into place....the bolts on a Salisbury feel to lightly slope towards the prop shaft side from memory....they were annoying and why I ended Placing the ball on before the a arms
Cheers mark

Thanks Mark

Yeah I ended up pulling one of the long bolts out as I just couldn’t get lined up.

Once I get this dam ring back on I’ll try your method of connecting the castellated nut to the plate first. That is what the Haynes manual says too.. it just seemed easier to do it the other way!

Maybe not..

Cheers Simon

[travelrover]

I managed to get the ring back on the boot on the A frame ball joint, and the balljoint thread inserted in the mounting plate on top of the axle using Marks method now. All the bolts In loosely except for one, the forward fulcrum bolt (29mm head) and no matter what I do I can’t get this one in now. After lying on grass under the vehicle [emoji102] looking at it I probably should have put in first but the other one lined up so I pushed it in!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190908/6e764954b15bfb7985770d51272ed5a0.jpg

I have run out of time again today as I am away for the week for work and need to prepare for that. I really want to finish this job and move the vehicle to a safer spot as we have fires around but it’s not going to happen today.

Any suggestions on how to get this last bolt in? Stan’s suggestion of jacking up the nose of the diff with the one bolt in moves it in the wrong direction. Do I now need to take the front bolts out of the suspension arms and try that way?

Cheers -Simon

[Floydo]

Took the Defender out to the Vacy Country Fair. Just happens the owner of the pub is a Landy enthusiast.

[AK83]

.....

Any suggestions on how to get this last bolt in? Stan’s suggestion of jacking up the nose of the diff with the one bolt in moves it in the wrong direction. Do I now need to take the front bolts out of the suspension arms and try that way?

Cheers -Simon

Car back on the ground(incl the rear axle), A frame nuts all a bit loose, jack up the nose of the diff(ie. at the uni joint).
The axle needs to rotate backwards for that A frame bolt holes to line up.

[travelrover]

Car back on the ground(incl the rear axle), A frame nuts all a bit loose, jack up the nose of the diff(ie. at the uni joint).
The axle needs to rotate backwards for that A frame bolt holes to line up.

Thanks AK83

A job for next Saturday :-)

[JDNSW]

Another suggestion - a large G-clamp, with a steel bar across the top of the A-frame arms.

[one_iota]

In preparation for a long road trip and to keep stuff off the roof the rear seats have come out and an extension to the drawer platform has been installed.

Gory details here:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/273946-defender-outback-storage-drawer-platform-extension.html#post2936388

[micksta1973]

Watched a video on adjusting steering box, adjusted steering box, nice tight steering box. Box box box.

[one_iota]

Replaced the seat box trim (the large piece of rubbery sheet that goes under the front seats...well it was rubbery once upon a time but had turned to stone).

[JDNSW]

Drove from Perth to Norseman.

[JDNSW]

Drove from Border Village to Port Augusta.

[austastar]

Nothing!
And now the indicators flash on unlocking. They suddenly stopped doing that about a year ago.
Maybe corrugations are good for something after all.
Cheers

[travelrover]

Nothing!
And now the indicators flash on unlocking. They suddenly stopped doing that about a year ago.
Maybe corrugations are good for something after all.
Cheers

What year is that? We have 2012 and it has never flashed on lock/unlock but the manual says it should.

Cheers

[austastar]

Hi,
2009 Puma. It does funny things if the battery gets disconnected too. Settles down after a while though.

cheers

[JDNSW]

Arrived home from Perth about noon. 7924km in 18 days, of which seven were in Perth with minimal driving. Problems? End cover of aircleaner came loose and rattled, tightened it properly, no further issues (it was serviced - not by me- just before leaving). High beam stopped working (again) just after being 'fixed', again not by me. Driving lights work though, so no problems. Fuel consumption just under 12l/100km, more accurate when I top up next week. Most driving 100-110kph.

Not too bad for a 33 year old car with over 655,000km on the clock.

[travelrover]

Thanks AK83

A job for next Saturday :-)

Finally back home from my trip and again trying to get this A frame ball joint through the hole far enough to start the nut.

This is as far as I can get it and no matter what I do (jacking, leverage with timber) it will not go any further.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190922/5741a55004b48704d918d9335741e00e.jpg

I have reread all the related comments here and am pretty sure I have tried every approach except the G clamp cos I don’t have any big enough.

My next thought is to remove the upper link chassis bolts so I can get the A frame bolt started and then try and get those big bolts back in.

This is driving me nuts

[Zcoota]

I popped out the upper two bots that you have the nuts just starter on, started the A frame nut then aligned the holes for the two bolts with a screwdriver and popped them back in. Its fiddly but was easier this way.

[travelrover]

I popped out the upper two bots that you have the nuts just starter on, started the A frame nut then aligned the holes for the two bolts with a screwdriver and popped them back in. Its fiddly but was easier this way.

Thanks Zcoota, you mean the fulcrum bolts? 19mm heads?

[Zcoota]

The two that in your photo are partially tightened just above the brake line.

I still had to mess around with jacking up the diff but it was much easier that way.

Cheers,

Mark

[travelrover]

The two that in your photo are partially tightened just above the brake line.

I still had to mess around with jacking up the diff but it was much easier that way.

Cheers,

Mark

Thanks Mark

Assume the chassis is supported with stands for this?

[Zcoota]

I did but I was doing a complete diff assembly swap and had the coils and radius rods out as well. (Also put a couple of wheels under the chassis just in case I bumped something hard and dislodged a stand.... cars falling on people is way too common)

[travelrover]

I did but I was doing a complete diff assembly swap and had the coils and radius rods out as well. (Also put a couple of wheels under the chassis just in case I bumped something hard and dislodged a stand.... cars falling on people is way too common)

Thanks again Mark

Trying to fix wiring issue in the Puma now, will have to come back to the Tdi next weekend :-(

[Ancient Mariner]

You need a jack under the nose of the diff, with the trolly jack under the housing it forces the nose down

AM

[Tote]

Treated the XGTs to new clear covers, its surprising how cloudy they can become without you noticing.

154505

Regards,
Tote

[travelrover]

You need a jack under the nose of the diff, with the trolly jack under the housing it forces the nose down

AM

Yes I am still trying to get this dam A frame ball joint on, I have lost count of the hours spent on this so far. I must be doing something very basic wrong as it just is not working for me. The ground it is on is not all that level so maybe that’s contributing to my challenge. As I said previously I have tried every permutation suggested here (except the G clamp). Some I have tried three or four times now.

When I have put the fulcrum bolts in first I just can not get enough thread from the A frame ball joint through the hole to start the nut on the thread so I am back putting the ball joint in first and trying to get the second (forward) fulcrum bolt in as you can see in the photo.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/c7640cfb327b6ef8d74d3d3c5a218b50.jpg

So this is where I am at now which is the most advanced I have been. I have a screwdriver jammed in the other side to try and line up the holes but that’s not really helping much. What do I need to do from here to get the second bolt in? Not matter how the vehicle is jacked (axle, chassis or on the ground or a combination) when I jack the nose of the diff it always goes the wrong way.

Appreciate any more suggestions.

Cheers - Simon

[Standard]

Yes I am still trying to get this dam A frame ball joint on, I have lost count of the hours spent on this so far. I must be doing something very basic wrong as it just is not working for me. The ground it is on is not all that level so maybe that’s contributing to my challenge. As I said previously I have tried every permutation suggested here (except the G clamp). Some I have tried three or four times now.

When I have put the fulcrum bolts in first I just can not get enough thread from the A frame ball joint through the hole to start the nut on the thread so I am back putting the ball joint in first and trying to get the second (forward) fulcrum bolt in as you can see in the photo.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/c7640cfb327b6ef8d74d3d3c5a218b50.jpg

So this is where I am at now which is the most advanced I have been. I have a screwdriver jammed in the other side to try and line up the holes but that’s not really helping much. What do I need to do from here to get the second bolt in? Not matter how the vehicle is jacked (axle, chassis or on the ground or a combination) when I jack the nose of the diff it always goes the wrong way.

Appreciate any more suggestions.

Cheers - SimonHey mate,

I had another look at your photos and noticed that you have the trolley jack directly under the pumpkin. When I did mine, I had the jack centred on the diff housing i.e. to the left of the pumpkin. I did try it the same way as you have at first but it pushed the lhs down and the rhs up which stopped me getting the ball joint in.

I feel for you. If I lived nearby I'd be more than happy to give you hand.

Cheers,
Stan.

[travelrover]

Hey mate,

I had another look at your photos and noticed that you have the trolley jack directly under the pumpkin. When I did mine, I had the jack centred on the diff housing i.e. to the left of the pumpkin. I did try it the same way as you have at first but it pushed the lhs down and the rhs up which stopped me getting the ball joint in.

I feel for you. If I lived nearby I'd be more than happy to give you hand.

Cheers,
Stan.

Thanks Stan

Oh man driving me nuts! It shouldn’t be this difficult. I’ll have another go tomorrow.. at least it’s not my daily drive but it would be nice to have the job done. Yes that’s what it’s doing now one side up one side down.. god knows how many times I’ve jacked it up and down...

Plenty of other things I could/should be doing!

Cheers - Simon

[Standard]

Thanks Stan

Oh man driving me nuts! It shouldn’t be this difficult. I’ll have another go tomorrow.. at least it’s not my daily drive but it would be nice to have the job done. Yes that’s what it’s doing now one side up one side down.. god knows how many times I’ve jacked it up and down...

Plenty of other things I could/should be doing!

Cheers - SimonI know that this has been frustrating, but remember that theoretical knowledge and experiential knowledge are two different things. From what you've said, it sounds like this has been a good learning experience so far, with no significant damage to you, your car or your wallet.

When you have finished this job you will feel relieved and when start the next job you will do it from a more knowledgeable base.

I could tell you that it took me 2.5 hours to do the same job. But it really took me 20 years (as a Fitter) and 2.5 hours.

Cheers,
Stan.

[big harold]

Can you get another bolt and grind a taper on it and install from other side to line up then drive bolt through.
Mark

[travelrover]

I could tell you that it took me 2.5 hours to do the same job. But it really took me 20 years (as a Fitter) and 2.5 hours.

Cheers,
Stan.

Yes thanks again Stan. I have owned Defenders, Range Rovers (classic and series’s since the early 80’s) but never tried to replace the Ball joint. So yes very much an educational experience. But I am looking forward to getting done and actually driving it for a change!

Cheers

[micksta1973]

Do you have the A arm to chassis bolts done up? If so loosen them back off. Never tighten just one part of an assembly. Allows more play to line everything up. Tighten every thing once all fasteners are in place. Also, PLEASE coat the bejeesus out of all bolts with nickel/copper anti seize. It is your best friend.

[travelrover]

Do you have the A arm to chassis bolts done up? If so loosen them back off. Never tighten just one part of an assembly. Allows more play to line everything up. Tighten every thing once all fasteners are in place. Also, PLEASE coat the bejeesus out of all bolts with nickel/copper anti seize. It is your best friend.

Yup everything is loosely fitted, and was covered in copper anti seize but I will have to put some more as some has come off as I’ve had the bolts out so many times. :-)

[roverrescue]

Not sure how pong you’ve been working on the a-frame
But the easy way to get it together is with the springs out?

Support chassis at good height,
Drop springs out
Bolt it all together
Re-install springs

If your still struggling pop one trailing arm to axle bolt out and then it will be easy

The time you’ve spent wiggling screwdrivers could have yanked the springs out twice !

S

[travelrover]

Took a break from the dam A frame ball joint on the 300Tdi and after chasing a baby black snake out of the shed I got stuck into the rust on the rear cross member of our Puma.

Simple job for a change...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190929/d99e50c6b2af57be85817b0ac8b4bd25.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190929/12ab0c46f49beabdcb0d9341915874bc.jpg

Two under coats and three top coats, satisfied with the results.

Cheers - Simon

[AK83]

Yup everything is loosely fitted .....

Never done a sals diff, but looks like the body needs to lower, or a bit more twist(nose up).
Further to the suggestion to remove springs, maybe add weight into the car to compress springs a bit more.
Do you have firmer/longer rear springs fitted(that you know of).

Also, try removing the trailing arms off the axle ends. The will allow the axle to rotate diff nose up a bit more freely.

Maybe the uni joint is also making it hard to rotate the diff too?
Have you tried with the propshaft removed(if not already).

[travelrover]

Never done a sals diff, but looks like the body needs to lower, or a bit more twist(nose up).
Further to the suggestion to remove springs, maybe add weight into the car to compress springs a bit more.
Do you have firmer/longer rear springs fitted(that you know of).

Also, try removing the trailing arms off the axle ends. The will allow the axle to rotate diff nose up a bit more freely.

Maybe the uni joint is also making it hard to rotate the diff too?
Have you tried with the propshaft removed(if not already).

Thanks everyone for the advise and guidance. I pulled everything off, the arms and ball joint and reassemble it and this time it went no problems at all. Job done in under an hour. No idea what the problem was before. Operator I guess. Went for a long drive and this one is running sweet now!

[Standard]

Thanks everyone for the advise and guidance. I pulled everything off, the arms and ball joint and reassemble it and this time it went no problems at all. Job done in under an hour. No idea what the problem was before. Operator I guess. Went for a long drive and this one is running sweet now!Good work!

I'm drinking a beer to celebrate!

[travelrover]

Good work!

I'm drinking a beer to celebrate!

Me too ;-)

[jon3950]

:arms: :twobeers:

[4xsama]

Tried to fix an annoying squeak coming from the top of the dash.

I had the fascia off and took the bus for a 10 minute drive going over the types of bumps which make the dash squeak. No squeak so must be from the fascia rubbing at the top connection back to the tray thingy on top of the dash.

I re fitted the fascia and adjusted the torx screws until the squeak went away. Was 90% better so job done for now but then took the vehicle to Bunnings and the bloody squeak materialised!!

I can stop it temporarily while driving by pushing the top of the dash (at the connection point) down onto the top end of the fascia so I know where its coming from. Might need to put some felt in there between the AC vents and the fascia.

[DiscoMick]

Rubber washers?

[4xsama]

Rubber washers?

I was thinking more of a bit of bike inner tube as the noise seems to be from the profiled connection at the top of the dash or where the top heater vents rub against the fascia (again at the top).

Next weekend I'll partially remove the dash fascia and grab a torx screwdriver, a knife and some rubber and slowly drive around the local back streets. I need to be rolling just above idle in 3rd to get a good vibration through the car or drive on cobbles (usually in the back lanes around Melbourne north suburbs). I'm sure if the police pull me over I'll have some explaining to do!!

I did the above last weekend and know the squeak goes with the dash off or really lose. It was a mater of tightening the fixings until the squeak reappeared.

[fatnold]

Fitted uprated Eibach rear anti-roll bar and Super Pro poly bushes to the 110.

155188

[Tote]

Hung around with a couple of ex military types......

155273


Regards

Tote

[manic]

Planned to replace the cracked windscreen but ended up taking the dash out instead.

Some wiring to tidy, some rattles to chase, and a couple of forward facing air vents might make it worthwhile.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191027/07b27bfe5346e89820e9c3dc02d7f49a.jpg

[86mud]

that's commitment!

[DiscoMick]

After our desert trip we have an oil leak and a couple of new rattles.
One annoying rattle turned out to be the guard around the fuel filter, down behind the driver's side rear wheel. When screwed tight it could still rattle.
Best solution would be a rubber strip glued in there. As a temporary fix we have wrapped several layers of insulation tape in place. Rattle stopped.

[simonfish]

I will be installing my new , Rijidij steering guard this weekend.
thanks Murray, it looks fantastic, very well made !

[JDNSW]

Washed it yesterday for the trip to Melbourne tomorrow, and can now see out of the back window. Justified by the rain on Sunday that has laid the dust for a few days, so it won't be just as bad by the time I hit the bitumen. I hope!

[JDNSW]

Drove home from Melbourne. 958km, in twelve hours including stops (ten minutes for lunch, ten minutes to get some groceries, twenty minutes looking at a flagman with a "Stop" sign and about 150m of road being tar sprayed and gravelled, and half an hour to pick up my dog - long discussion on the kennel owner's forthcoming trip to Myanmar!).

No issues.

[4xsama]

I was thinking more of a bit of bike inner tube as the noise seems to be from the profiled connection at the top of the dash or where the top heater vents rub against the fascia (again at the top).

Next weekend I'll partially remove the dash fascia and grab a torx screwdriver, a knife and some rubber and slowly drive around the local back streets. I need to be rolling just above idle in 3rd to get a good vibration through the car or drive on cobbles (usually in the back lanes around Melbourne north suburbs). I'm sure if the police pull me over I'll have some explaining to do!!

I did the above last weekend and know the squeak goes with the dash off or really lose. It was a mater of tightening the fixings until the squeak reappeared.

So I fixed the squeak. A bit embarrassing really but the problem was all my doing. The squeak started ages ago when I installed a Traxide light kit. I had to remove the dash fascia to install the driving light switch etc and ever since the dash had the annoying squeak.

I was sitting in the car on the weekend with the dash off prodding at vents etc and pulled on two wires for the clock. Thing is its only one wire which had been poked into a gap used to clip the dash on at the top. I pulled the wire clear, refitted the dash and, well blow me down, squeak gone. DOH!!

[Dorian]

A few weeks ago I tried to replace the gear stick knob. Eventually in a fit of stupidity I swung into it and quickly realized that the breaking sound meant that the job had become a lot bigger.
Not willing to part with $200 ish to buy a new gear stick that would only last 6 ish years I set about making my own, and also the fact that I had already bought a gear knob set.
Made the parts.
156014 156015

Installation,
156016 156017

For reference - Knob thread is 1/2"UNF and the size of the gear stick base shaft from the gear box is 5/8 by about 120mm long.

Before I repeat my stupidity can anyone confirm that the transfer case stick just screws off - or did Ford "redesign" with this as well?

Cheers Glen

[RobC]

The output shaft on my Puma 2014 was exhibiting severe clunks after 115000k. From what i can read, I have been lucky to get that much out of it.
Booked it in for replacement and of course it failed on the way to the indie repairer in Ringwood. No drive at all, just as i pulled out into traffic. Dangerous situation. The workshop was kind enough to tow me the last few blocks into the workshop. A few days later - shaft replaced, clutch replaced, new slave cylinder, new HD axle stubs and all of the backlash has gone - better than new. Just a pity that LR didn't do this under warranty.
Has anyone had any success with any reimbursement from LR for what was clearly a faulty design?
Indie repairer in Ringwood has been excellent.

[In A Landy Down Under]

A few weeks ago I tried to replace the gear stick knob. Eventually in a fit of stupidity I swung into it and quickly realized that the breaking sound meant that the job had become a lot bigger.
Not willing to part with $200 ish to buy a new gear stick that would only last 6 ish years I set about making my own, and also the fact that I had already bought a gear knob set.
Made the parts.
156014 156015

Installation,
156016 156017

For reference - Knob thread is 1/2"UNF and the size of the gear stick base shaft from the gear box is 5/8 by about 120mm long.

Before I repeat my stupidity can anyone confirm that the transfer case stick just screws off - or did Ford "redesign" with this as well?

Cheers Glen


Great job!!

Mine happened to perish and crumbled whilst on a road trip a year or so ago, and did a pretty terrible job replacing it with the use of a mini hacksaw, a gear knob from supercheap and some silicone haha.....although it did last until now (just) give or take coming of in my hands a few times!

[Ancient Mariner]

Finished new winch mods and tested ready for install tomorrow[biggrin]

AM

[JDNSW]

An interesting morning. Got a phone call from my next door neighbour - the ignition key on his ute won't turn. We had a discussion over the phone, and he had done just about everything I could think of, so I offered to go and have a look. (its only about 4km)

I had a look, and could think of nothing more. He needs a locksmith - nearest one is in Dubbo, about 60km away. I suggested that it might be cheaper to get it towed in, and that he should discuss it with the NRMA. He then said "but I have a bale of hay on the back I need to unload - and not just here" (the ute is at his house, the hay needs to go to a heavily fenced enclosure to keep the vermin off it).

So we went back to my place and hooked up my flatbed trailer to the County and returned to his place. I backed up to the ute until the trailer touched - its bed is about six inches lower than the tray of his ute. Then using a heavy duty tiedown strap round the bale, and two come-alongs I had brought from home, chained to the front of the trailer, we were able to slide the bale (about 750kg) onto the trailer. Then took it to the required spot, backed in, put a recovery strap round the bale, and pulled the trailer from under it.

[fitzy]

Finished new winch mods and tested ready for install tomorrow[biggrin]

AM

Tell me more [emoji851]

[Ancient Mariner]

Tell me more [emoji851]

https://youtu.be/g10Ybg2oG9I New 12000lb 2 speed winch modded for either electric or hydraulic and air clutch for 2 speed operation from cab


Noel

[tact]

Did a family trip from Sydney to Rainbow Beach & Cooloola, then return. Stopped a couple of nights in Brissy CBD. Parked overnight in a Secure Parking facility and found a good parking spot.... (mine is the TDCi)

157111

[JDNSW]

Drove into the village & picked up the parcel from All Four x4 containing a clutch slave cylinder. Spent the afternoon fitting it. The designer of this setup obviously had smaller hands than I do!

Still having issues getting it bled (as usual).

[mfc]

45 minutes..to remove ancilirys and find out turbo heat shield bracket is snapped and the bolt is 1/2 inch not 13 mill...same later with turbo to manifold bolts[imp not metric] ..[just in time b4 bolt destruction].
3 snapped manifold studs..mate spent 4 hrs [on and off] removing them with drills, ground down screw drivers a high quality easy out that provided totally non functional. ..2 of the 3 studs were removed by drilling and grinding/filing down various tools including Allen keys...wood bits[most usfull]..high end German screwdrivers and a asorted probed, picks and swearing/praying..Tim quote ”that’s the problem...they won’t let you charge for that but anything can be don given tim beer and thought[lr trained mech from the 80’s[ulr in vic]...from 10 am onwards I’m on the manifold ..sand paper a flat board and a strait edge[20 past one now with a pint of 50 /50 Jim beam and coke as a night cap..and 1/ a mil of plum..........flip some sheckles to machine shop and that’d be done[however I’m on a pension and could afford glass sheet and emery paper and drill bits.....pain in the arse but it’s Saturday, we’re both cheep and persostant......AND MOST IMPORTANTLY WITH A HAND DRILL IN THE BACK OF THE TD5....ITS 2 days sleeping on the side of the road ,and you’re on you’re way
That’s why I love the box cars....Monday I’ll be trying to get the breaks working on the 1955”defender” so that if it flash fry’s down from the alpine national park I can get both cars out

Every day in a Land Rover is an expedition, that’s why we love em
Time for more sanding and another pint of 50/50 bourbon and dry
Best cars in the world, hand tools all the way

[JDNSW]

Got the clutch on the County bled. Took most of the morning, but the majority of the time was spent making a reverse bleeder, having been unsuccessful in the search for the one I made last time (about ten years ago!)

[mfc]

As 2 posts above, I’m astounded at the improvement in drivability sorting out the warped manifold/snapped studs resulted in....not to mention the quitening up of the engine in general. In hindsite it felt like driving with a gearbox with mismatched ratios
Cheers mark

[travelrover]

Well, I didn’t do it but a large branch (25 meters long) feel on my 300Tdi squashing the bonnet, doing damage to the right side of the vehicle ripping the snorkel away from the A pillar, somehow smashing the push button on the drivers door handle and smashing an indicator and side light. The bull bar seemed to protect it from significantly more damage. Am unable to open the bonnet but the engine is running fine!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200114/19057c65cce33d729e61f8fab4662632.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200114/7bc9bd9139e815c646675b523a451498.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200114/6cd83eb9cd7e27fc1df69eb2cfafaf4a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200114/3890facbf1e5bb9050923d16ab381f5a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200114/aacd90f2c42f11548ca45166f0668fb8.jpg

I guess I will be looking for a bonnet (with spare wheel bracing) and a right mud guard at least...and probably other stuff

[DiscoMick]

Damn!

[travelrover]

Damn!

Could have been a lot worse I guess!

[4xsama]

We lived in a place in Sydney with a massive gum in the neighbors back yard which extended over the majority of our yard. The Defender was kept in our back yard under a cover to stop the gum sap etc staining the paint.

Every windy day I expected the bloody thing (tree that is) to drop a branch. We were there for two years. I'm amazed nothing fell onto the car except a few larger twigs.

[travelrover]

We are on acreage and have lots of huge eucalyptus trees which I have avoided parking under for the last 25+ years. I had put the 300Tdi here so a contractor could do some bobcat work in the area I normally park this one. Ironically I am building a carport to protect it as this one is too tall to fit in the shed in the background where our other defenders live.

The contractor finished late so I thought it’s ok I’ll move it in the morning as there was no wind!

Too late, this came down at 20:30!

Certainly the largest limb to fall anywhere near the house in all that time.

[JDNSW]

You don't necessarily need wind for those eucalypts to shed branches.

[Xtreme]

You don't necessarily need wind for those eucalypts to shed branches.
Agreed. I've experienced healthy looking branches falling due to a temperature change on a perfectly still day.

[travelrover]

Agreed. I've experienced healthy looking branches falling due to a temperature change on a perfectly still day.

Yes it was a windless day but obviously been very dry for a long time (3 plus years) and we had some very very strong winds when the southerly buster came through of New Year’s Eve.

[ezyrama]

Oh Bugger, sorry to hear that. We have a huge mother across the road from us. It was over 90' tall when we cut our 75' one down 25 years ago. It is 1/2 and 1/2 on my neighbours land and on council land and they wont let him remove it. This time every year it sheds a bucket load of bark and small branches and makes a mess over the whole street. During the last big storm it dropped a few big branches but luckily they fell directly between the houses. If it came down it would take out any one of 5 homes around it, including my truck. I dread the day it does.

[travelrover]

Oh Bugger, sorry to hear that. We have a huge mother across the road from us. It was over 90' tall when we cut our 75' one down 25 years ago. It is 1/2 and 1/2 on my neighbours land and on council land and they wont let him remove it. This time every year it sheds a bucket load of bark and small branches and makes a mess over the whole street. During the last big storm it dropped a few big branches but luckily they fell directly between the houses. If it came down it would take out any one of 5 homes around it, including my truck. I dread the day it does.

It is a full time job this time of year picking up truck loads of shedded bark and piling it up to burn. Am sure I could sell it to schools for art projects and the like...

Our house is about 8 meters from the northern boundary and there are plenty of very large trees just across the fence line that would completely flatten our house and main shed. I think we have been very lucky so far. I upped my insurance a few weeks ago in light of the Gospers Mountain fire being within 10km so hopefully we will be adequately covered if they fall!

[4xsama]

You don't necessarily need wind for those eucalypts to shed branches.

100% correct. When we lived in WA we used to head down to the S/W corner near a place called Callcup (fairly well known sand dune system down there which is a good test of a 4x4 - suffice to say my Puma made it up bog standard on A/T's at 12psi - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-f8Fs5FWRs)). We'd head into the bush along some old forestry trails and park up next to the Warren River for a week or so each Christmas. We could be sitting around on a still day (usually quite warm to hot) and every now and then you would hear an almighty crash off in the bush where a gum had dropped a branch.

Sobering stuff.

[Patrick110td5]

Replaced o rings in fuel cooler on my td5. Leak free for the first time, feels good man. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200117/287e4c25235887a32c91edf115f93025.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200117/a6366ec083535de5e4d03f88066f08fb.jpg

[Crocodile Dundee]

Hello to all, have been missing for a while, actually too long
Finally repossessed my Defenders after 6 years finally will get them finished this year, l know its been a long time but thats what happens when you believe is so called Experts not happy[bigsad][bigsad][bigsad][bigsad][bigsad]

[Discofender]

Love long weekends...... with decidely shot ball joints on both track rod and drag link it was time to replace them and the thin walled std rods. Decided on the Gyn Lewis kit to replace the goose neck on the drag link and replace the drop arm with the disco one.

A new OME stabilzer completed the job. Just to refit the APT guard now although really not sure what its protecting these new rods are solid.

Discofender https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/b5e4660a0c06b28d8c569c2c2a15e4f6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/3146c6ac27b752bd1394518593e5a6df.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/0c0cc5e3c6dd05495c79da075c0e96ed.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/f044f29d38214d3287918d5ebd8584d7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200125/c14a9d8ca5a36ed90d873cc12431d048.jpg

[micksta1973]

Pulled all the mats out and wiped up all the water. Made the mistake of driving in the rain.