Thread: Motorbike racing photography

I could have gone to ISO 1600 but I haven't tried it recently with this camera. The last time I tried my Pentax at 1600, it gave quite grainy results.

Looking at my EXIF data, I can see I could have gone with a faster shutter speed but it wasn't until I got home and viewed them on the computer that I saw the images were blurred,

A long f2.8 lens is outside my budget.

I was using MF quite a bit to get over the problem of focussing delay - and also the camera not letting the shutter release until it was in focus.

I've got plenty more rounds of FX-SB to take more pix.

I just noticed that the images as displayed in Picasa 3 (and thus in this thread) are significantly degraded over those displayed in both the Pentax Photo Browser and the Capture One imaging software packages.

Hi Ron,
Sounds like your doing everything right.

Have a play with ISO 1600 and see what the images are like.

If you can't increase the shutter speed anymore, you need to slow down the action and move to a slower corner.

One food for thought option though, thinking outside the square. How-about hiring a 70-200 or 300mm f2.8 for those special weekends when you need to capture the action?

J

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I didn't know one could hire lenses, Jon. Food for thought.

Regrettably, as I work as a marshall, usually on pit exit or the grid, I don't get a chance to move about.

However, next weekend at Eastern Creek I'll be a spectator so I will have a chance. I might need to carry my lightweight tripod or my monopod, though.

Here's a couple form another thread:

Originally Posted by p38arover

No. 39 - Jump Start (Wakefield Park 2011).



and on the main straight:

Does you camera have multiple modes e.g., sports, portrait etc.

In sports mode on my camera, the focus does not impede the operation of the shutter and it will operate on demand. I also use the continuous shoot/motor wind mode which gives me bursts of successive exposures.

Slowing the speed of the subject is not restricted to speed on the ground it is the traverse across the lens that determines the shutters speed requirements to freeze an image. Panning will reduce the traversing speed. Also taking pictures head on or going away will also reduce the traversing speed, you will just have to cope with focal distance changes and changing size of image therefore stick to long lenses. Not all good images require crystal clear frozen motion, a little blur can be good to show speed of subject, usually best to blur the background.

Once you know your limits try for shots that best suit your situation. As a marshal you probably had opportunities with respect to proximity to the bikes others will not have. Hopefully this does not mean just pictures of the bikes on their trailers.

Actually, Jon, I hadn't thought about what shutter speed I needed until I did the calculations mentioned in my earlier post.

This weekend I'll experiment a lot more. The screen on the back of the K100D ain't great for viewing images so I'll need to move them to a netbook which I could take with me.

I had a look for rentals but it seems that Pentax is not catered for. I'm not looking to do this for a living so I can't justify buying, I'm only doing it for fun and as a learning exercise.

At the moment, it's not equipment that is limiting me - it's lack of skill.

Originally Posted by slug_burner

...
In sports mode on my camera, the focus does not impede the operation of the shutter and it will operate on demand...

I agree with the rest of the stuff you say, but... Id be very surprised if above is true. Even on the fastest USM L series Canon lenses the camera still won't take a shot until the AF says its in focus. Using the AF to focus is slower than the system not focussing at all (ie. using MF) and hence slows the camera's ability to record multiple shots and thus increasing your chances of missing "the" shot! This is the very thing Ron has already experienced and figured out the (MF) solution!

A cool trick for MF on a tripod in this situation is often to take a shot using AF, thus letting the AF set the focal length, then switch to MF and leave the focussing ring alone. This then allows you to play with other variables, knowing that each frame, whilst under/over exposed will be in focus.

I would also shoot in jpg not RAW in continuous mode. This will allow the camera to make better use of its buffer and allow you to shoot more continuous shots before things start to grind to a halt when the camera is writing to the card. Of course you can't do as much editing afterwards, but at least you'll have captured the shot!

The cheaper / slower the lens, the more pronounced the issue.

J

Thats what I was going to raise... seems the AF will always slow down things. Do the professional guys use MF or do they just have VERY VERY VERY expensive lenses (and bodies) that have AF thats quick enough?

Ron, a thought bearing in mind I've never used it, but does the 100D do focus trapping (or catch in focus) ?

Basically set the focus point and press the shutter, it doesn't actually fire though until something is in the frame and in focus.


Martyn



Martyn