Pictures ! Anything goes, it is the camera corner after all !!

300+ · 18th October 2010, 11:03 AM

Originally Posted by Chucaro

There are some sections that can be improved with Nik viveza selecting the and adjusting contrast and bright.
The good with Viveza is that there is no need to work in many layers

IMO I will try in PS, layers, linear contrast (default settings) and then if you can just work in the rocks at the end of the log in the LHS

Cheers

I'll give it ago. This one is further downstream from the last one you helped me with.

I tried a trial of Viveza and it is brilliant. The way you can edit a section, without impacting what is beside it is quite amazing.

Cheers, Steve

**Chucaro** · 18th October 2010, 11:10 AM

Steve, I do not remember if you are using Nikon gear, if you use their cameras then Capture NX2 have point technology developed by Nik for Nikon.
I use Capture NX2 and is excellent to work in the nef files.

300+ · 18th October 2010, 06:44 PM

Hi Chucaro.

I'm on Sony so I don't get the benefit of capture NX.

But I've tried what you suggested, and it has made quite a difference. So much so that I manually masked all the rocks and bumped the contrast on them as well. And added a very slight vingette.

The difference is subtle, but makes a bit difference to my eyes.

After:

Before:

Cheers, Steve

**Chucaro** · 18th October 2010, 07:30 PM

Very good PP Steve,it is a very nice image.

300+ · 18th October 2010, 08:11 PM

It is more than that. It is one of the first images that I've actually made better using curves. Normally that is a tool of mass destruction for my images.

Cheers, Steve

**Chucaro** · 19th October 2010, 07:37 AM

Originally Posted by 300+

It is more than that. It is one of the first images that I've actually made better using curves. Normally that is a tool of mass destruction for my images.

Cheers, Steve

Curves are great because they are not destructive.
Always work with the tiff file as "Smart Object" and save the original as smart object with all the layers open.
By having your original with the layers open you can adjust the image at later stage to suit the printer and paper selected without loosing valuable data.
I am not an expert in PS, my interest in in take the shot and not seat in the PC for hours, but it is nice to recuperate images that are not possible to replace.

I use as reference the book Photoshop CS3 for Nature Photographers, a work in a book by Ellen Anon and Tim Grey.
Tim is an excellent nature photographer and this book with a CD is excellent.

The edition for CS5 is available with the inputs from George Lepp
Cheers

**Ace** · 19th October 2010, 01:53 PM

awsome photo, great detail. What software are you using to play around with the image?

300+ · 19th October 2010, 01:58 PM

Thanks Ace. It is photomatix for the HDR and photoshop CS5 for the layering, editing & masking.

Cheers, Steve

**Cap** · 19th October 2010, 07:10 PM

Dont tell me Steve that your getting hooked on HDR for landscapes!!!???

I know the feeling, im now constantly shooting 3 exposures per shot in case I need it for HDR.

300+ · 19th October 2010, 07:15 PM

Originally Posted by stooge

Dont tell me Steve that your getting hooked on HDR for landscapes!!!???

I know the feeling, im now constantly shooting 3 exposures per shot in case I need it for HDR.

If you are going to walk for 40 minutes carrying a tripod it seems silly not to bracket a bit... -2, 0, +2.

Cheers, Steve

Thread: Pictures ! Anything goes, it is the camera corner after all !!

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