Thread: Range Rover Trailer

Brakes have been hooked up.
Got the Old Girl registered today.
Full size Number Plate for a full size trailer.

Empty weight is 560 KG. Very respectable I thought.
Turner Engineering granted it 1995 KG all up max weight.
So I can legally shove 1435 KG into it. Try doing that with ya Chinese made junk.

I think your trailer is great.has huge possibilities as a camper .Open the door -slide out kitchen etcTent on top etc.Well done!

Great work.I reckon it looks really good and different to alot of the other stuff you see.

Nice effort! It has come in at a reasonable weight too!
The A-frame + lower link rear suspension is awesome in a trailer and will take a load much better than any independant setup...

Still not certain why you ground the axles and didnt just pull them.
All the offroad boat trailers Ive built run stub axles, vehicle hubs with bearings (landy or tojo) and oil filled for lube. With the stub inner sealed off can just drill and tap the flange for an oil filler.

Now you are carrying a set of flanges, broach out the splines... then if you ever blow a CV or half shaft on the tow vehicle you can swap flanges with the trailer then pull appropriate tail shaft and wont have broken bits turning while still keeping oil in its place.

Now lets talk about those front spring buckets... Ive got to build another boat trailer and the landy spring buckets work well!

Steve

The Old Rangies had the axle and drive flange as one piece.
I needed to keep the drive flange to stop the oil from running out.
The stub axles bearings brakes ETC are still rangy.
Both my Diff's in the Tow Vehicle are Maxi Drive so none of the parts are the same anyway.

Yeah good point on the fixed axle flanges...
still if you wanted to be able to seal your maxi axles without driving a broken shaft/ CV /Diff grab some fender flanges (flogged out ones are fine - Ill trade some for those front spring buckets ) broach the splines and cap them off...

Steve

Done deal.

Here is the proof it has what it takes.

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Here is the voltmeter for the 230 A/H battery setup.
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Refueling functional testing.
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Here is the battery & charger setup.
I am yet to install the inverter and the LED strip lighting for the Lid.
Tows like a dream. Absolutely rock steady.
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Originally Posted by bee utey

Nothing wrong with the idea, so long as you can balance the load properly with the correct forward bias.

Totally. some of the Ute tray/body trailers which I've seen must be diabolical to tow with.

Originally Posted by richard4u2

i was told once for a perfect towing trailer the axel must be rear of center 1" per foot of floor space

Thats roughly how we do them too. Of course it depends on the application.

Originally Posted by buzz66

Please let me know where I can find ANY Trailer new or used capable of carrying a 1000 KG of firewood with coil springs/Koni Shocks and hydraulic disc brakes, 74 litre fuel tank and a fold down tail gate for 2 grand.

If you can fabricate, which it seems you can, you will could make it from scratch for that much or less. Yesterday I did a new chassis and drawbar for about $120.

Originally Posted by buzz66

I need new brake discs, wheel bearings, bushes ETC for the rear end. The Diff will be removed and a cover plate in its place.

I didnt think you were allowed to do this. Perhaps that was before NCOP VSB1. Obviously you have - well done!

Originally Posted by buzz66

By better suspension I assume you mean independent ?

Most I have seen don't have the same wheel travel as a Rangy.

But they have more uptravel which is more important.

Originally Posted by buzz66

I didn't actually think anyone who owned a Land Rover of any description put any credence on looks.

Ouch! Not everybody owns Series1/2/3/4/5/6 or 7 Land Rovers.

Originally Posted by buzz66

Done deal.

Here is the proof it has what it takes.

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Well done, a good job!