Thread: questions on 92 RRC Vogue SE

awww - no love?

Last question is about the centre diff lock?

First - what is the correct use? As a rule - put it in when you leave the road or just when your about to go up a steep hill or in to ruts?

Second - what is the effect of not having it in? Will it work the motor hard or cause it to heat up?

HUH? if it is a standard 92 RRC it will not have a centre diff lock but a viscous coupling which automatically locks up if there is a speed difference between front and rear axles.

There is already an overheat switch for the aircon fans. Its on the side of the Thermostat. if you want a manual switch just set up one to bridge that.

The sensor's I want include water levels (For the rad it self?), water temp, transmission oil cooler temp \ transmission temp? & motor temp - what is the best way to go about these and any recommendations?

There is already a sensor for the trans temperature which triggers a warning light. It is located at the LH side of the radiator on the cooler line.

Just buy a new cap for the radiator. It provides a flashing red light right in the middle of the dash which cannot be ignored.

IMHO , unless you have a warning light anyway, numerous gauges are not looked at at the correct time anyway.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

HUH? if it is a standard 92 RRC it will not have a centre diff lock but a viscous coupling which automatically locks up if there is a speed difference between front and rear axles.

Ah yes - she's not stock at all The viscous has been pulled & replaced - either way the question remains?

There is already an overheat switch for the aircon fans. Its on the side of the Thermostat. if you want a manual switch just set up one to bridge that.

Awesome! Thank you very muchly - saved me a lot of time there

There is already a sensor for the trans temperature which triggers a warning light. It is located at the LH side of the radiator on the cooler line.
Just buy a new cap for the radiator. It provides a flashing red light right in the middle of the dash which cannot be ignored.
IMHO , unless you have a warning light anyway, numerous gauges are not looked at at the correct time anyway.
Regards Philip A

mmm, I don't have a radiator cap - for the radiator it self it has a bolt - the over-flow bottle has a float sensor for low level coolant but its stuffed :/

The sensor for the trans - could it be hooked up to tell you a temp?

I just want more info from it when I am off road going nice & slow up a hill climb or something similar?

But good point about not being able to look at all the dials if I did it - More over I will get a after market ECU that could provide most of this info & then be able to view history - but thats a ways off for me


I did a bit of searching - I am sure others must have asked these questions before - the mirrors is one I really want to solve so I can adjust them I am good with google - must just not be getting the key words right on here

mmm, I don't have a radiator cap - for the radiator it self it has a bolt - the over-flow bottle has a float sensor for low level coolant but its stuffed :/

The sensor for the trans - could it be hooked up to tell you a temp?

You are a pedantic fellow are you not??? LOL.
The expansion bottle/reservoir pressure cap is the one to replace.

No you cannot use the overheat sensor for a gauge. It is on/off only.

I know lots of people worry about trans temp but if you use a synthetic fluid , I do not think they would ever overheat if you are sensible. This includes running in low ratio on hot days in dry sand. I have towed in sand and the only time I have ever had a warning is after I wet the sensor and then it was on all the time until I replaced it. AND mine has 50% more power at low revs.

IMHO if your car is in good nick, ie a clean radiator/good headgaskets/ trans working properly, it should never move on the temp gauge. I have done rock crawling in 47C and the temp gauge did not move. ( although many will say it's too late once it moves.)

I can tell when mine has been working hard by the amount of coolant that oozes out of the ends of the heads, and my recent trip towing in 46C at 110Kmh caused an increase in ooze, but no trans temp warnings .

BTW the plate in the old LT95 boxes said to lock the centre diff only when stuck. However, the LT230 and LT95 are susceptible to chewing up the thrust washers in the centre diff if there is too big a difference in F vs R axle speed. So my procedure was to lock the diff if I expected wheelspin, eg climbing out of a creek bed, up a steep hill, in mud. Most of the time I would leave it open on the average bush track. No Rover diffs like wheelspin .

Regards Philip A

Hey Philip - firstly - thanks for the help

pedantic?? lol not really - what I really want to know is how hard bits are working if they are working hard at all.

Righto - the pressure cap on the overflow - check!

ta for the CDL info - its the lt230 - so I'll follow that advise

Any idea's on the power mirror's?

Thanks again!!

Originally Posted by PhilipA

You are a pedantic fellow are you not??? LOL.
The expansion bottle/reservoir pressure cap is the one to replace.

No you cannot use the overheat sensor for a gauge. It is on/off only.
I know lots of people worry about trans temp but if you use a synthetic fluid , I do not think they would ever overheat if you are sensible. This includes running in low ratio on hot days in dry sand. I have towed in sand and the only time I have ever had a warning is after I wet the sensor and then it was on all the time until I replaced it. AND mine has 50% more power at low revs.

IMHO if your car is in good nick, ie a clean radiator/good headgaskets/ trans working properly, it should never move on the temp gauge. I have done rock crawling in 47C and the temp gauge did not move. ( although many will say it's too late once it moves.)
I can tell when mine has been working hard by the amount of coolant that oozes out of the ends of the heads, and my recent trip towing in 46C at 110Kmh caused an increase in ooze, but no trans temp warnings .

BTW the plate in the old LT95 boxes said to lock the centre diff only when stuck. However, the LT230 and LT95 are susceptible to chewing up the thrust washers in the centre diff if there is too big a difference in F vs R axle speed. So my procedure was to lock the diff if I expected wheelspin, eg climbing out of a creek bed, up a steep hill, in mud. Most of the time I would leave it open on the average bush track. No Rover diffs like wheelspin .
Regards Philip A

Any idea's on the power mirror's?

No real idea unfortunately. Mine have always worked perfectly, although the adjuster on the switch stuck a couple of times after moving the LH mirror and I wondered what the click-click -click was.

I guess you have to trace through the wiring. I would next pop the switch out and see if there is power there.

Fuse C5 should be the correct fuse for the mirror motors.

Regards Philip A

Have a look at the rubber seal around the sunroof. The edge of the sunroof which the seal sits over corrodes and pushes the seal apart allowing water to pass. Its a relatively easy process to remove the sunroof panel then after removing the rubber seal clean away all the rust, add a rust inhibitor then reassemble using an appropriate silicone sealer between the rubber seal and metal edge.
To test the drainage open the sunroof and poor water around the edges.
If you don`t deal with it you will soon have the headlining around your feet.

Cheers for that mate - I am planning on doing all this in the next week or two