Thread: Help! RRC intermittently running like a chaff cutter...

It is accompanied by the battery warning light coming on. When it stalls it always kicks over again easily but will still by lumpy.

Is the battery warning light coming on because the idle is really slow, or does it happen when the revs are higher?

If higher either the alternator is stuffed or there is something seizing on that belt that is loading the engine.

could be water pump, air con clutch, alternator bearings. Maybe idler pulleys if it has them.
My guess is that the seizing is dragging the engine down.
Regard sPhilip A

checked the oil in the carby dashpots?

could also be the ignition module...

When the alternator failed in mine a few years ago the light came on and it ran very poorly.

EDIT .... BigJon's answer looks the goods .....

Mike

Ignition circuit is going low voltage, either a poor feed situation (intermittent terminal contact), ignition switch, battery terminals etc., or there is a short circuit on the ignition circuit. I would look for wires from the reverse light switch and any other ignition connected circuit on top of the engine, they would drag down the voltage at the dash panel and cause the alternator light to read. Do other lights dim at the same time? e.g headlights, interior light? A poor connection will result in low voltage in that circuit only, a short will drag down the whole lot.

Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

I'll have a hard look at the ignition module .....

But depends on how old all the electrics are / your up for checking all the ignition parts followed by a dose of the fuel check side, Fuel filter is a nice start

You could ask bee utey where he hid that Bosch AMP thread and that Ford rotor button part number



Mike

Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024
GB864

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Is the battery warning light coming on because the idle is really slow, or does it happen when the revs are higher?

My guess is that the seizing is dragging the engine down.

I wouldn't call it low idle - more like idling normally on 2 cylinders!

It doesn't feel like the engine is being dragged, and there is no belt squeal or slippage, but I will check anyway.

Originally Posted by incisor

checked the oil in the carby dashpots?

could also be the ignition module...

EFI = no carbies.

Will check Ign module.

Originally Posted by BigJon

When the alternator failed in mine a few years ago the light came on and it ran very poorly.

broadly, that is my problem...

Originally Posted by bee utey

Ignition circuit is going low voltage, either a poor feed situation (intermittent terminal contact), ignition switch, battery terminals etc., or there is a short circuit on the ignition circuit. I would look for wires from the reverse light switch and any other ignition connected circuit on top of the engine, they would drag down the voltage at the dash panel and cause the alternator light to read. Do other lights dim at the same time? e.g headlights, interior light? A poor connection will result in low voltage in that circuit only, a short will drag down the whole lot.

hmm... my ignition has become harder and harder to turn (As in; won't turn at all and have to keep removing and reinserting the key until it will allow the barrel to rotate)... could the two issues be connected?

Originally Posted by Shonky

my ignition has become harder and harder to turn (As in; won't turn at all and have to keep removing and reinserting the key until it will allow the barrel to rotate)... could the two issues be connected?

The actual switch part attached to the back of the steering lock has a nasty habit of coming apart. If you take off the plastic steering column surround you can easily see if its failing or better still remove it and see if the key then turns easily. Its an easy fix to discard the switch and fit a start button.

If you have an Idler valve on your car it might be worth checking that.
Idle Air Bypass Valve. I had one sticking which caused the car to stall on a regular basis.

This little beast is a stepper motor that opens an air channel bypassing the throttle, for those occasions when the engine needs a bit of extra respiration -- such as when you are running the air conditioning while idling in the desert. Unfortunately it has a mind of its own, especially after you have driven a couple of hundred miles on dusty desert dirt roads. The symptoms are a fast idle of about 1,500 RPM, and an annoying oscillation in engine speed when descending steep hills with the foot off the throttle. The device can be easily removed by unscrewing it from the back if the air intake plenum -- right hand side facing forward. (After removing mine a few times, its crush washer is broken so you might want to get a spare one). The problem can usually be cured with a squirt of WD 40 or carb and choke cleaner, and a clean out of its seat in the plenum. Care is needed not to try and force the shaft to move; it is plastic and fairly delicate. (A new one costs $140, so it's worth trying to revive the old one. However see the EFI section of the parts and service page for lower-cost substitutes).