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Thread: Early classic alloy radiator interest?

  1. #11
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    Felix,

    Not attacking you. Just querying your post.

    IME alloy radiators are not smaller than copper(/brass) rads...???

    You are right that brass and solder have a lower thermal conductivity. However the solder would probably be largely irrelevant if there is proper contact between the fins and the tubes.

    I am not sure what the landie/rangie rads are made from. However companies such as mesabi make radiators (for mine trucks) with copper tubes and copper fins.

    Personally (besides not owning a rangie) I would not fit an alloy rad to a 4x4. I had to deal with enough stress fractures in a copper/brass rad in a mate's RRC on the canning stock route...

  2. #12
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    Felix, you dont seem to be able to seperate "Function" from design .
    These modern race engines run at much higher operating temps than your old rangie does . they also have a totally different set of functional parameters . They also have different life cycle requirements . The manufacturers OEMs have worked out better ways to maintain the function , such as better fans ,better air directional control . more efficient coolant management ,de-airatiom , so they can save weight and cost by using alloys radiators , hence profit .I fergot the biggest difference , its Lube oil temp control
    There are alot of downsides in using an alloy radiator in an old plodder RRC that was never designed to run them .
    Ever tried rodding out an alloy radiator ? (get a new one !)When its full of mud and grass seeds what do you do then .? (get a new one !)
    Tried welding one up when something penetrates it ? (get a new one )
    If however your just going to use it for driving around the Burbs , then the light weight and BLING effect should impress someone .A sad case of Horses for Courses !

  3. #13
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    Well, with my rangie, it isn't designed for long distance touring anyway so I'm not too worried about that- 4.11 diff gears and an LT95 with no carpet or insulation is tiring after an hour let alone a week of it. Trust me it isn't a truck thats used around the burbs.

    As said in the first post, I'm just having one made to see how it goes. My current rad is cactus (it's bent)- I could buy a new tropicore one for $600, or I could get this alloy one with a shroud and two fans for the same price and see if it makes a difference. I need thermofans and a shroud as I have zero airflow from the highmount and the spotties. I need the shroud because the truck does most of it's work crawling around in the dirt. Yes I understand it might run hot on the freeway but we'll come to that when it's fitted. So, thats why I'm putting one in- it is up to whoever else if they want one, it was just an offer.

    Thermofans on a large copper rad is difficult because of the pressures- I need thermofans which are too thick to fit infront of the waterpump pulley. I have found this out already, finding that the engine fan was capable of pulling more air than the two thermos I had (when the engine is at speed, not when crawling around).

    I also want to try out a meziere electric water pump. They make one to fit in the timing cover of rover V8s. Unlike the Davis Craig one which just sits inline.....

  4. #14
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    Alloy radiator ,Then a electric Water pump ! whats next ?
    Let me guess , A Gilmer belt drive followed by a cam gear drive (gives that blower noise) Sound like a spec straight out of Streetcommodores !!
    (Youll need a a good bosch `130amp altenator VT calais , to run all this , including the 10 spotties )
    What a pity you live in Sydaknee , Ive got a as new 5 Row fine fin HD radiator to suit you early RRC just sitting here doing nothing $350 its yours .

  5. #15
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    Whats wrong with wanting to try a electric water pump? To me it sounds fine, providing it's setup right with the appropriate controller and what not.

    Just because what I want to do with my car isn't what you like doesn't mean you have to go on attacking it.

  6. #16
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    I've used an electric water pump in the past for clearance reasons - not on the Rangie, but for the same reasons - definatley wasn't a show car . It worked fine for the 18 months I had it before I sold the vehicle, so I have no issues with them.

    Just as an aside - I recently solved my overheating woes on my 86. A combination of things caused it, but as a bit of extra cooling, I have wired up the AC condenser fans so they can run without the AC on - that extra air flow has helped out heaps when in traffic - before I did this, it used to run about 92 degrees (even on a mid 20 degree day) - with the condenser fans on as well, it now runs at 86 in the same conditions - vey happy now.

    Most of my overheating woes were caused by a stuffed viscous coupling, and a pile of leaves between the AC condenser & the radiator.
    Last edited by Homestar; 7th April 2011 at 08:55 AM. Reason: Added stuff
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  7. #17
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    Well, mine was overheating due to the viscous being cactus- however I didn't want to run an engine fan anymore. Low speeds and low rpm don't really do much cooling with an engine fan.

    I can only fit one small condensor fan as I have the highmount in there- hence why I'm going thermofans

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS View Post
    Ive got a as new 5 Row fine fin HD radiator to suit you early RRC just sitting here doing nothing $350 its yours .
    what brand and where did you source it?

    cheers,
    Serg

  9. #19
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    I think its a Natra core , there is no identifying tagging or badges on it . Had a tank removed for rodding out , only to discover it was in "as" new condition , It was just clogged with mud externally in the lower fins .

  10. #20
    robyne Guest

    Love your idea

    If it fits my 1985 classic, I'd love one.
    Dose that price include the fans ?

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