Thread: Heater core

Originally Posted by bidds

I just rebuilt my 1990 version and assuming similar basic operation, the hot/cold lever just moves an air flap inside the casing, allowing more or less air to pass through the core and into the cabin. There isn't a conventional heater tap to turn the coolant water on/off - it's always flowing through the heater core.

If the hot/cold lever is stuck perhaps you've got a leak in the heater core that has sprayed all over the place and gummed up the pivots for the flap or stuck it's edges to the housing; then the stop-leak has plugged the leak (assuming you had/have one).

I'd get the heater core changed or you'll likely end up with all the coolant in the footwells and an overheated engine. It is a PITA to do but if you can take the truck off the road for a while, take it slow and you'll get it sorted for hundreds instead of thousands.

cheers,

bidds

Thanks, but if if the water is always running through the heater why do they say to turn the heater on when flushing the radiator (and adding stop leak for that matter)?
I have a fan problem aswell so maybe the dash off can kill 2 birds with one stone, it doesn't seem to be losing coolant at least.

Originally Posted by happykid55

Thanks, but if if the water is always running through the heater why do they say to turn the heater on when flushing the radiator (and adding stop leak for that matter)?
.

G`day happykid55 .

bidds knows what he`s talking about , some others as Blknight.aus have it wrong .

If you have a Range Rover and it is covered by this section
and it is not a soft dash MA 94/5 , it`s flap control .

The only RR this section that has a tap is the last model soft dash .

Peter

Originally Posted by PLR

G`day happykid55 .

bidds knows what he`s talking about , some others as Blknight.aus have it wrong .

If you have a Range Rover and it is covered by this section
and it is not a soft dash MA 94/5 .

The only RR this section that has a tap is the last model soft dash .

Peter

Well mine is a 75 2 door so it definitely belongs here.
Thanks for that, I guess dash exploration is the answer.

Rage Rover

i don't believe the sticking face controls could be anything to do with your 'quick-fix', as they are mechanical... whats likely is they have either come out of their holes, or the arms inside have broken or bent, or the white clips that hug the levers behind the fascia have come away or broken.

it's not all that bad... i've got a heater unit out of my 90 CLassic at the moment, and have another one which i'm replacing it with. If your blower motor still works, and your core is okay then i'd be happy to give you this unit of mine - it was nice and hot... just the blower didn't work. i am considering getting a new core for $150ish in any case, considering the unit is out.

as for removing the heater unit... yes, you do need to remove everything from your dash... front console, air con and then heater unit. but as this picture below shows... it's possible even for a first timer... and there are ways and means of still driving your car with it out (like i've done for the last 3 months).


drop me a PM and we can touch base. i see you're in perth.

rest assured, it can be done for much cheaper than the $2K quote if you're prepared to do it yourself - which even for an amateur is very possible.

good luck and think positive thoughts.

tim

LOL - That photo is *exactly* what mine looked like up until a few days ago - I considered leaving it all out but I've got the heater unit back in with a new core, flap seals, resistors and heater motor. All the fan speeds work fine and the air even comes out of the unit ie - I didn't wire the motor up backwards. With the new seals the whole unit is quieter and much more of the air seems to go where it's supposed to -

cheers,

bidds

Bidds

quick question. how did u pull the unit apart when the main intake flap seems to hold the housing for the motor together?

i have managed to lever out the short end to this flap... but find there is nowhere for it to go.

All circ clips, screws and other clips are off.

surely it is something easy and not a 'muscle' based solution.

cheers

tim

Originally Posted by happykid55

Thanks, but if if the water is always running through the heater why do they say to turn the heater on when flushing the radiator (and adding stop leak for that matter)?
I have a fan problem aswell so maybe the dash off can kill 2 birds with one stone, it doesn't seem to be losing coolant at least.

because it lets you know when the cooling system is starting to heat up and if you have flow through the heater unit.

with fresh coolant in the system (or a flushing agent) with the fans and the heater on you will also smell any leaks that have developed in the heater unit if you have inadvertantly cracked the plastic fittings

Hi Tim,

It's the worst part of it and yes, it's a case of applying muscle. Doesn't seem right but that's what the manual says - I didn't believe it but it's the only way.






Assembly is reverse and it will rip off some of the newly applied sealing strip in the process (!) It was reasonably easy to replace it with the cases together though.

cheers,

bidds